Fixing a ground, cut in half by a weed whacker.

[madosta]

So, my ground got whacked, clean off.

My dad was cutting some weeds around my house with his "BRUSHWACKER" with a steel disc head on it. I saw it when I got home because the cable guy tied ground into what was left of it.

It looks like a #4, but I couldn't find a ground rod. It's kinda close to the panel, but on a different wall.

Questions
What is it for?
How can I fix it better than with just the split?

 

[Aceman]

What is it for?
How can I fix it better than with just the split?

It's for grounding your main service panel.

We use C taps to splice ground wires together. Problem being you don't have the proper crimper.

At this point my suggestion would be to leave the split bolt, but google the part number on the back of it to make sure it's rated for "grounding/bonding" because not all of them are.

 

[madosta]

It's for grounding your main service panel.

We use C taps to splice ground wires together. Problem being you don't have the proper crimper.

At this point my suggestion would be to leave the split bolt, but google the part number on the back of it to make sure it's rated for "grounding/bonding" because not all of them are.

Awesome advice. Thanks. I have an electrician coming out to do some heavy conduit bending and to look around at things. I'll see if he can get it straightened out and crimped.

 

[pattenp]

The split bolt is not an approved splicing method for the electrode grounding conductor. This is a good example of why it's best to run the electrode ground conductor in a section of conduit where exposed.

 

[Tscott]

Yep, gonna need a crimp connection to make it reliable. Have your electrician buddy crimp it together when he comes to do your other work. It will be fine for now with the split bolt. I wouldn't stress over it by the way, not really that big of a deal. Most if not all current returns on the power companies neutral anyway. It is more of a redundancy thing in case the power companies neutral fails.

Tom

 

[Falcon67]

And be damn careful - check and make sure there is no current or voltage on that before you go grab on to it.

 

[madosta]

All great advice. I almost want to run a new wire.

Would the ground rods be buried over a foot deep and more than a foot away from the foundation?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

So, my ground got whacked, clean off.

My dad was cutting some weeds around my house with his "BRUSHWACKER" with a steel disc head on it. I saw it when I got home because the cable guy tied ground into what was left of it.

It looks like a #4, but I couldn't find a ground rod. It's kinda close to the panel, but on a different wall.

The GEC (aka ground) size is based on your service conductor size. So if you're unsure of the existing GEC size, check the size of your service conductors and refer to NEC T250.66 to properly size the GEC!

Questions
What is it for?
How can I fix it better than with just the split?

The GEC/GES's main purpose is to discharge lightning strikes!

The proper code compliant fix is to run a new wire. No splices are allowed between the service main and the GES! (NEC 250.64C) So several peoples' advice of splicing it will NOT be code compliant, if you care about that!

As suggested by pattenp, you may want to consider using EMT or another type of metal conduit for damage protection if you anticipate this happening again!

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Yep, gonna need a crimp connection to make it reliable. Have your electrician buddy crimp it together when he comes to do your other work. It will be fine for now with the split bolt.

A splice is not code compliant! (NEC 250.64C)

I wouldn't stress over it by the way, not really that big of a deal. Most if not all current returns on the power companies neutral anyway. It is more of a redundancy thing in case the power companies neutral fails.

Tom

Incorrect. The primary purpose of the GEC is to discharge lightning! Ground rods and the GEC/GES are NOT for redundancy of the service neutral! If the service neutral fails, then yes, return current can flow back to the transformer via the ground rod because the center tap of a single phase transformer is bonded to a ground rod @ the pole!

 

[wyliesdiesels]

And be damn careful - check and make sure there is no current or voltage on that before you go grab on to it.

If there IS current flowing and he touches it, chances are slim he would get shocked as his skin and shoes are more resistant than the rod. However, if he cut the wire and then held it in one hand and touched the rod with his other hand or touched it somewhere on the same arm, he could get shocked as he would be completing the circuit!

 

[wyliesdiesels]

All great advice. I almost want to run a new wire.

Would the ground rods be buried over a foot deep and more than a foot away from the foundation?

Not quite sure what you're asking but ground rods are required to be in contact w/ soil a min. of 8' (NEC 250.52.A5) meaning they are 8' long. And where its buried depends entirely on who put it in but yes generally it would be as close to the service as possible to save on wire length!

 

[pattenp]

A splice is not code compliant! (NEC 250.64C) ......

Which code year are you citing? 2011 NEC allows it. 250.64(C) If necessary, splices or connections shall be made as permitted in (1) through (4).

 

[wyliesdiesels]

2005. I don't have 2011 yet! My mistake!

 

[madosta]

Not quite sure what you're asking but ground rods are required to be in contact w/ soil a min. of 8' (NEC 250.52.A5) meaning they are 8' long. And where its buried depends entirely on who put it in but yes generally it would be as close to the service as possible to save on wire length!

I'm only asking because as I moved some dirt around the wire in the ground, I was not able to easily locate any ground rod 1' down and 2' from the structure.

The GEC (aka ground) size is based on your service conductor size. So if you're unsure of the existing GEC size, check the size of your service conductors and refer to NEC T250.66 to properly size the GEC!

The GEC/GES's main purpose is to discharge lightning strikes!

The proper code compliant fix is to run a new wire. No splices are allowed between the service main and the GES! (NEC 250.64C) So several peoples' advice of splicing it will NOT be code compliant, if you care about that!

As suggested by pattenp, you may want to consider using EMT or another type of metal conduit for damage protection if you anticipate this happening again!

The panel is 200amp. I think some conduit for protection would be nice.

 

[rabidsquirrel]

Man, try using the edit button. Four posts back to back isn't proper forum etiquette.

As for me, I'd leave it as is until I was going to move and then fix it. If lightning strikes your house you have bigger problems anyway.

 

[70redbee]

Man, try using the edit button. Four posts back to back isn't proper forum etiquette.




Where is this written?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Man, try using the edit button. Four posts back to back isn't proper forum etiquette....

Sorry! I'm posting with my 'crapberry' and the 'edit' button doesn't always work in my phone's browser!

 

[rabidsquirrel]

Where is this written?

Between the death of newsgroups and the birth of forums.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I'm only asking because as I moved some dirt around the wire in the ground, I was not able to easily locate any ground rod 1' down and 2' from the structure.



The panel is 200amp. I think some conduit for protection would be nice.

Again, GEC size is based on service conductor size NOT service amperage size. If ur service conductor is 2/0 CU or 4/0 AL (correct 200 amp service conductor size) then GEC should be #4 CU!

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Splices are OK, but only if made using a permanent approved method. Exothermic welding is one, the crimped splices Aceman mentioned are another (but must be approved for the purpose). Neither of these are something the average Joe will be able to do. The rod has to be close by, take a shovel and do some digging. Run a new ground and make a connection to the rod using a proper clamp.

Charles

 

[foolishpride]

Again, GEC size is based on service conductor size NOT service amperage size. If ur service conductor is 2/0 CU or 4/0 AL (correct 200 amp service conductor size) then GEC should be #4 CU!

A #6 copper is all you need to run to a ground rod.

NEC 250.66 (A)

 

[Norcal]

Since I doubt you possess a hydraulic crimper or Cadweld molds & such to do a irreversible connection, the only options are hire someone who does, or replace the wire.

 

[sberry]

While its always suggested to do it right I don't think its something I would lose a great deal of sleep over it. If it wasn't written explicitly in the code you can just see how there would be another million splices from everyone using up scraps of wire from everything in a "this looks good enough" fashion.

 

[madosta]

Whoa whoa whoa guys... hold your horses.

My conductors are 4/0 AL - BRING IT ON ELECTRONS!!!

This is indeed my service ground to my panel.

I am not losing sleep over it and my electrician will fix it with his cool tools and even putting some conduit around it.

Woot!

 

[wyliesdiesels]

A #6 copper is all you need to run to a ground rod.

NEC 250.66 (A)

So I guess one of my code books is contradictory! The chart in the picture says GEC size is based on service conductor size but then lists NEC 250.66A as saying #6 CU largest size needed if ending @ rod.... HMMMM.....