skamp
Well-known member
I recently purchased a new compressor that needs 220V. I am also planning on getting a welder that will most likely require 220V as well. I am planning on running a 60-100 AMP sub panel to another section of my garage but have some concerns/questions on what to do with my existing panel.
I currently have 200 AMP service (was upgraded a few years back) going to a 20 Slot 40 circuit GE panel. I only have a single 1" empty slot left in my panel. I also have a 2" GE surge protector. I was thinking about the following options.
1. Change entire panel to a 32 or 40 slot GE panel. This is the most time consuming but provides for the most expansion for the other issues I have. There are no permits needed here so this is something I can do myself once the provider pulls the meter. It looks like a pretty easy swap but since I have never done it I am not 100% sure on the time it would take. Since it would go in the same location it should be just a matter of labeling everything, cutting the drywall to fit the longer box then reconnecting everything. If I go this route I can either still run a sub panel or just do individual circuits for the compressor and welder.
2. Remove the 2" surge protector which would free up the space needed for the additional 100 AMP breaker needed for the sub panel. I could then use the last 1" slot for a different external surge protector that uses a breaker for the panel connection. This route is pretty easy but leaves me with only a 1/2" slot left. I am not sure if it is code but I thought you should always have at least one space left in a panel. Not sure if that means a 1/2" space of full. I also have some issues/concerns with the connection of the neutral and ground.
3. Leave panel as is and install a single 50 AMP breaker for the sub panel which would now be a 50 AMP sub panel instead of 100 AMP. I think 50 is fine for the compressor and welder as they would not be used at the same time as well as the fact that the compressor only need 15 AMPS. The downside to this config is there would be 0 slots left in my panel. This setup also leaves me with the same concerns with neutral and ground connections.
As mentioned above I have some concerns about my neutral and ground connections. I do not have any additional space on the neutral or ground bars. Some of the neutrals are already doubled up which I understand to be non code compliant. Is there a way to extend the ground and neutral bars if I go with configs 2 or 3?
Here are some pictures of my existing panel.
Panel with cover on
Panel with cover off
There are a few other issues with my panel that I plan on addressing independent of adding the sub panel. I plan on swapping the 4/0 AL wire going to the meter (about 2-3 feet of wire) with 2/0 or 3/0 copper. I want to do this and the AL I installed originally is too tight in the box, I never enlarged the conduit it is in going to the meter, the neutral is on the ground bar and I don't like the bend radius for the left side hot. It is a cheap and easy fix.
I also plan on fixing the neutral connected to the top of the ground bar that is going to a different sub panel. Since the ground and neutral are bonded I know it really does not matter but I am not sure if that is code complaint but even if it is I would like it to be correct. The main ground also connects to the neutral bar but I am not sure if I will change that I would have to rerun the ground unless I go with option 1 where the extra panel length would allow me to move it to the ground bar.
Sorry for the long post but wanted to include as much detail as possible. I appreciate any input on this. Thanks!
Steve
I currently have 200 AMP service (was upgraded a few years back) going to a 20 Slot 40 circuit GE panel. I only have a single 1" empty slot left in my panel. I also have a 2" GE surge protector. I was thinking about the following options.
1. Change entire panel to a 32 or 40 slot GE panel. This is the most time consuming but provides for the most expansion for the other issues I have. There are no permits needed here so this is something I can do myself once the provider pulls the meter. It looks like a pretty easy swap but since I have never done it I am not 100% sure on the time it would take. Since it would go in the same location it should be just a matter of labeling everything, cutting the drywall to fit the longer box then reconnecting everything. If I go this route I can either still run a sub panel or just do individual circuits for the compressor and welder.
2. Remove the 2" surge protector which would free up the space needed for the additional 100 AMP breaker needed for the sub panel. I could then use the last 1" slot for a different external surge protector that uses a breaker for the panel connection. This route is pretty easy but leaves me with only a 1/2" slot left. I am not sure if it is code but I thought you should always have at least one space left in a panel. Not sure if that means a 1/2" space of full. I also have some issues/concerns with the connection of the neutral and ground.
3. Leave panel as is and install a single 50 AMP breaker for the sub panel which would now be a 50 AMP sub panel instead of 100 AMP. I think 50 is fine for the compressor and welder as they would not be used at the same time as well as the fact that the compressor only need 15 AMPS. The downside to this config is there would be 0 slots left in my panel. This setup also leaves me with the same concerns with neutral and ground connections.
As mentioned above I have some concerns about my neutral and ground connections. I do not have any additional space on the neutral or ground bars. Some of the neutrals are already doubled up which I understand to be non code compliant. Is there a way to extend the ground and neutral bars if I go with configs 2 or 3?
Here are some pictures of my existing panel.
Panel with cover on
Panel with cover off
There are a few other issues with my panel that I plan on addressing independent of adding the sub panel. I plan on swapping the 4/0 AL wire going to the meter (about 2-3 feet of wire) with 2/0 or 3/0 copper. I want to do this and the AL I installed originally is too tight in the box, I never enlarged the conduit it is in going to the meter, the neutral is on the ground bar and I don't like the bend radius for the left side hot. It is a cheap and easy fix.
I also plan on fixing the neutral connected to the top of the ground bar that is going to a different sub panel. Since the ground and neutral are bonded I know it really does not matter but I am not sure if that is code complaint but even if it is I would like it to be correct. The main ground also connects to the neutral bar but I am not sure if I will change that I would have to rerun the ground unless I go with option 1 where the extra panel length would allow me to move it to the ground bar.
Sorry for the long post but wanted to include as much detail as possible. I appreciate any input on this. Thanks!
Steve