Drilling top plate over Elec Panel

[Spudland_Dave]

so now that the panel is in and hot in the garage, time to install circuits... How would you drill the top plate over the panel? I'm thinking one of 2 ways... either drill a couple 1-3/4" or 2" holes with a hole saw and run all wire thru that, or use a 1" auger and make swiss cheese of the top plate...I'd like to drill a bunch now so I dont need to worry about hitting wires down the road if I run more.
The truss load is perfectly stacked above the stud right there...so thats not too much of a concern... but by the same token, i dont want to go overboard and remove the entire top plate...

 

[KenC]

Plumbers self feed bit in 2" works well. IF you have a drill that will handle it.

 

[pattenp]

If you end up with less than the required 1 1/4" thickness from the hole edge to the edge of the stud after you drill your hole(s) you will need to put in wire protection steel plates.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Plumbers self feed bit in 2" works well. IF you have a drill that will handle it.

Oh, drills or tools are not my problem...My Milwaukee Magnum Holeshooter wont be an issue, I have yet to meet something I've not been able to drill. the weak point is usually me holding it...I bet my Fuel M18 wont even flinch either...got a couple others to choose from as well...

Hi My Name is Dave and I'm a tool-a-holic...

 

[Falcon67]

I punched a dozen holes with a 1" Irwin speed bit.

 

[Zeke]

If you end up with less than the required 1 1/2" thickness from the hole edge to the edge of the stud after you drill your hole(s) you will need to put in wire protection steel plates.

Probably ought to run a strap across the whole deal and past the adjoining studs. What ever holes there are will probably exceed the overall amount of plate you can remove. It is certainly a benefit that the truss loads are straight over the studs. By tying the plate with a strap you alleviate any lateral weakness.

And you get wire protection

Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician, but I do know framing.

 

[MrMark]

Oh, drills or tools are not my problem...My Milwaukee Magnum Holeshooter wont be an issue, I have yet to meet something I've not been able to drill. the weak point is usually me holding it...I bet my Fuel M18 wont even flinch either...got a couple others to choose from as well...

Hi My Name is Dave and I'm a tool-a-holic...

These tools aren't enough for that. The self-feeders, especially 2 inch, require a very slow and powerful drill. My Milwaukee right angle even struggles a bit under load and it is geared to 350 rpm as I recall. Hole saws ****.

The M18 won't do it and the holeshooter would be dangerous. You need a real right angle drill that you can hang onto or at least be extremely careful with the regular holeshooter.

Anyway, I would drill a series of 7/8 holes through the top plate. Drill as many holes as you can, you can fill the unused later with fire caulk.

You are smart to do it this way.

 

[Zeke]

Get a long threaded rod for the Hole Shooter instead of the handle. You won't sprain your wrist if it catches.

Or worse.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

These tools aren't enough for that. The self-feeders, especially 2 inch, require a very slow and powerful drill. My Milwaukee right angle even struggles a bit under load and it is geared to 350 rpm as I recall. Hole saws ****.

The M18 won't do it and the holeshooter would be dangerous. You need a real right angle drill that you can hang onto or at least be extremely careful with the regular holeshooter.

Anyway, I would drill a series of 7/8 holes through the top plate. Drill as many holes as you can, you can fill the unused later with fire caulk.

You are smart to do it this way.

You definetly got a point...I switched to Holesaws after an experience drilling a 1" hole in a 3/8" steel plate outside...obviously couldnt get it on my drill press, and its a miracle I didnt bust a wrist...the side handle hit my shin and I limped for a couple days after Even on the drillpress these days, I often use Holesaws.

So those self feeders are that hard to turn heh? Glad you said something, I was this close to buying a Milwaukee Switchblade...I'll stick with my holesaws then..

Sounds like more small ones is the way to go...probably do a mix of 1" and 7/8" ones...as I plan on running some 6-2 for welder/plasma, some 10-2 for compressor, and a 10-3 for Something else we cant talk about here.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

If you end up with less than the required 1 1/2" thickness from the hole edge to the edge of the stud after you drill your hole(s) you will need to put in wire protection steel plates.

I thought about that...is there an accepted gauge sheet steel for this? I'm guessing I cant run to HD or Lowes and buy a 3" x 16" nail protector...

 

[rlitman]

These tools aren't enough for that. The self-feeders, especially 2 inch, require a very slow and powerful drill. My Milwaukee right angle even struggles a bit under load and it is geared to 350 rpm as I recall. Hole saws ****.

The M18 won't do it and the holeshooter would be dangerous. You need a real right angle drill that you can hang onto or at least be extremely careful with the regular holeshooter.

Nah, the M18 will do it with the side handle, IF the bit is nice and sharp.
I've used mine with 1 1/2" selfeeds that are so dull they burn the holes, and it's still ok.

Yeah, the holeshooter will be dangerous. If you're going corded, a right angle is the only way to go.

 

[MrMark]

Nah, the M18 will do it with the side handle, IF the bit is nice and sharp.
I've used mine with 1 1/2" selfeeds that are so dull they burn the holes, and it's still ok.

Yeah, the holeshooter will be dangerous. If you're going corded, a right angle is the only way to go.

What are you calling "self-feeds"?

This is what I call self-feeds

2" is a lot different from 1.5". Using a battery drill on larger self-feeders is a great way to destroy the drill.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

What are you calling "self-feeds"?

This is what I call self-feeds

2" is a lot different from 1.5". Using a battery drill on larger self-feeders is a great way to destroy the drill.

You should try the Brushless M18...aka "Fuel" lineup from Milwaukee...crazy awesome tools. IMO I'd almost put them on par with corded tools....I've seen a few DeWalts burn up one with a 2" holesaw drilling into a 1" thick hardwood desk...I wouldnt hesitate to give a 2" self feeder a whirl on my drill....gotta remember too, this is just SPF lumber...nothing hard to drill at all.

 

[brewchief]

The milwaukee big hawg bits are a great alternative to self feed bits, they are basically a hole saw with three carbide teeth, need a lot less power then a self feed and are way faster then a hole saw and last longer too.

 

[Aceman]

If you end up with less than the required "1 1/4" thickness from the hole edge to the edge of the stud after you drill your hole(s) you will need to put in wire protection steel plates.

Fixed it for you.

I'm thinking one of 2 ways... either drill a couple 1-3/4" or 2" holes with a hole saw and run all wire thru that,

Don't do this, you'll run into 334.80 issues.

or use a 1" auger and make swiss cheese of the top plate

This is the way to go!

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Don't do this, you'll run into 334.80 issues.

What is that?

 

[Aceman]

The cables are considered bundled(derating applies) when more then 2 cables go through the same hole without spacing, when that hole is firestopped, caulked, insulated, etc.

It's easier to just drill a bunch of 7/8, 1" holes and not even worry about it.

 

[Norcal]

My Magnum was overloaded many a time w/ a 2 9/16" selfeed bit, overloaded to the point where the aroma of the motor windings was rather strong, the tool is about 30 YO & going strong, drilling a number of 1" or 7/8" holes would be EZ & not overtax a Magnum.

 

[ishiboo]

+1 with derating.

Bosch DareDevil's IMO are the best bit for running those holes My 36V will run the 1.5" DareDevil all day long.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

The cables are considered bundled(derating applies) when more then 2 cables go through the same hole without spacing, when that hole is firestopped, caulked, insulated, etc.

It's easier to just drill a bunch of 7/8, 1" holes and not even worry about it.

So when you say "more then 2" does that mean its ok to put 2 in one hole? Just trying to think how many holes I'll need as I want to drill em all at once while there is no danger of hitting any other wires.
24 place panel...I figure 24 holes should be good.

 

[Aceman]

So when you say "more then 2" does that mean its ok to put 2 in one hole?

Yes.

 

[pattenp]

Fixed it for you.

Thanks. When I posted the 1 1/2" I was thinking that seemed too thick because it only would allow for only a 1/2" hole. Memory lapse.

 

[Zeke]

I thought about that...is there an accepted gauge sheet steel for this? I'm guessing I cant run to HD or Lowes and buy a 3" x 16" nail protector...

Or 2) 1.5 straps and stack them. Yeah, they have predrilled holes, so they aren't exactly legal.

 

[MrMark]

You should try the Brushless M18...aka "Fuel" lineup from Milwaukee...crazy awesome tools. IMO I'd almost put them on par with corded tools....I've seen a few DeWalts burn up one with a 2" holesaw drilling into a 1" thick hardwood desk...I wouldnt hesitate to give a 2" self feeder a whirl on my drill....gotta remember too, this is just SPF lumber...nothing hard to drill at all.

I do have the Milwaukee V18 drill Made in Czech Republic back when Milwaukee still made things in this country, Germany and the Czech Republic. You're telling me your Chinese drill is more powerful? I'm not sure I'm buying that and, in any event, I am not buying Milwaukee anymore . . . fortunately I bought all my power tools before it got to the point where you can't buy a US power tool!

 

[MrMark]

My Magnum was overloaded many a time w/ a 2 9/16" selfeed bit, overloaded to the point where the aroma of the motor windings was rather strong, the tool is about 30 YO & going strong, drilling a number of 1" or 7/8" holes would be EZ & not overtax a Magnum.

Yeah, I bought one of the last US 1/2 inch Magnum Holeshooters. Nice drill. Made in China now. I don't use it much because the Milwaukee right angle is so much better to use for plumbing and elect. 2 9/16 self-feeder for 2 inch drain pipe. That takes out the whole 2X and puts a serious load on things. I like corded tools for this type of work. I think the safe limit of the battery drills is a 7/8 auger.

 

[Falcon67]

Yeah, I bought one of the last US 1/2 inch Magnum Holeshooters. Nice drill. Made in China now. I don't use it much because the Milwaukee right angle is so much better to use for plumbing and elect. 2 9/16 self-feeder for 2 inch drain pipe. That takes out the whole 2X and puts a serious load on things. I like corded tools for this type of work. I think the safe limit of the battery drills is a 7/8 auger.

I have a 19.2V C3 setup with Lithium batteries. The regular and the hammer drill "will" punch a 1" hole with a speed bit, but only 2-3 and it's a *****. I used my 1/2 corded Craftsman and it made chips like crazy and powered the bit through plates and 2xs like it was soft butter. I punched all my holes around the shop at once after marking the locations - place looked like the leftovers of a beaver buffett.

 

[Zeke]

. . . fortunately I bought all my power tools before it got to the point where you can't buy a US power tool!

Sure you can. This manufacturing facility is in Buford, GA.

That's not a distribution center, it's a factory.

 

[MrMark]

What is made there?

Every Makita tool I've ever looked at is made in China.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

I do have the Milwaukee V18 drill Made in Czech Republic back when Milwaukee still made things in this country, Germany and the Czech Republic. You're telling me your Chinese drill is more powerful? I'm not sure I'm buying that and, in any event, I am not buying Milwaukee anymore . . . fortunately I bought all my power tools before it got to the point where you can't buy a US power tool!

The V as nothing on the M series. I just drilled more 7/8" holes with my stubby greenlee bit then I care to count (ran all exterior power) and I did it all on a single battery...

Without going too far off topic...I used to care about where my tools came from...most of my Milwaukee's are USA made heck I even rebuilt an older Porta-Band to stay USA...but now a days I dont care anymore...if I had to look and shop that way, I'd have only a couple Drill Bits and Taps which are USA made...Even then, I've had just as much of USA junk as anything else these days. The 12v Makita I replaced was a GOOOOOD drill, but the batteries absouletly sucked....

Back to topic...I drilled about 8, 1" holes in the top plate... should be good enough for now.

 

[MrMark]

Sure you can. This manufacturing facility is in Buford, GA.

That's not a distribution center, it's a factory.

I was in Home Depot tonight and took a look at Makita. I think I found what that factory in GE does: miter saws. They are "assembled in USA".

 

[MrMark]

The V as nothing on the M series. I just drilled more 7/8" holes with my stubby greenlee bit then I care to count (ran all exterior power) and I did it all on a single battery...

Without going too far off topic...I used to care about where my tools came from...most of my Milwaukee's are USA made heck I even rebuilt an older Porta-Band to stay USA...but now a days I dont care anymore...if I had to look and shop that way, I'd have only a couple Drill Bits and Taps which are USA made...Even then, I've had just as much of USA junk as anything else these days. The 12v Makita I replaced was a GOOOOOD drill, but the batteries absouletly sucked....

Back to topic...I drilled about 8, 1" holes in the top plate... should be good enough for now.

But man that Czech drill is the smoothest DC motor drill I have ever tried.