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Final lift decision time...MaxJax, ezcarlift, or nothing

phenryiv1

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Martinsburg, WV
With the money in my pocket and the decision to buy a lift all but made, I am waffling on 3 major options.

First off, the basics:

My garage is used daily for parking our daily drivers. I have about 20x23 with a single door. I require that whatever I buy be NOT permanently installed. I will try to snap a better picture tonight, but this gives you an idea of how tight it is:

Earlier thread: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=171589

Pictures:

Garage004.jpg


Garage003.jpg


Those are OLD but the garage has not changed shape/size. Some of the garage "junk" that you see is no longer there (the wood stove, garden tools, etc.) but may have been replaced by other junk.


I do 99.9% of my own work to all of my cars, and my parents live about 200 yards away and my father (with their 5 cars) is the same way. I am 35 and he is 65 and neither of us are getting any younger, so I give some weight to making work easier with tool purchases. Second, I have 2 young kids, so saving time also has value.

What it really comes down to is the cost of convenience and capability. In almost 20 years of working on cars, I have been able to do pretty much everything that I wanted with ramps and jacks/stands, but getting under cars, fighting out from under cars to get the tool that I forgot, and generally putting off jobs because of the difficulty of the jobs has me considering a lift. I am not going to get any more excited to climb under a car, and a lift seems like a 1-time purchase with a LONG time of benefits.


I have a daily driver (2011 WRX), a truck of occasional use (1988 Jeep Comanche), my wife's daily (2008 Acura TL), and a rally car (1987 BMW). I am also considering buying another old BMW for track use. My father also has 5 cars.

A scissor lift is out because I pull exhaust, driveshafts, transamissions, etc. when working on my project cars (I am on my 5th "old" BMW now).

ANYTHING that I pick must be able to move out of the way for daily parking. I forgot that I had also ruled out the BendPak LR-60 and/or LR-60P (as mentioned in a post below) because I can't stash them away when not in use. The MJ and EZCL can be moved against a wall when not in use. At ~800 lb., the BendPak models can't lean against the wall without major effort, and can't even stash under a wide shelf or bench without a lot of effort.

So the options:

1. Buy Nothing. Why? Because when I buy tools I typically have to be able to justify their cost in savings of time and or frustration. $100 here or there is not hard to justify, but ~$2000...that takes some time to pay for itself.

2. MaxJax.
Pros:
  • Right now it is on sale.
  • It does all that I would want a lift to do.
  • It has enough capacity for me (6000#).
  • Reviews are awesome.
  • Oil/fluid changes will be more comfortable. Note: I don't always change my own oil despite doing all other car "stuff" because I hate getting under lowered or dirty (in the case of my rally car) vehicles, removing all of the shields, etc. I am lazy about it. I don't have a good excuse.

Cons:
  • It costs $2000.
  • It takes 10-15 minutes to setup. For a tire rotation, I might be able to do it faster with jacks (I have 3) and stands (I have 4). For brakes, suspension, etc., the setup time will probably make it worth setup time.
  • Not portable (without buying more anchors).
  • Increases the footprint of a car being serviced.

3. ezcarlift:
I found out about this a few weeks ago and was really excited. For most of what I do, this would do the trick. Small, slightly cheaper than the MaxJax, more portable, and with faster setup. BUT after very minor negotiations with the owner of the company, he got pretty rude. He backed off, but still- I hear that he is great to work with for most things but can be a real @$$ on the money side. He definitely showed me that range of emotions. In searching for info about the lift and its applications, I saw posts (and a whole thread) about his response to negotiating for a better price. I thought this to be sour grapes by non-buyers, but after my personal experience, I just have to wonder how common it might be. I must say that his service and support after the sale are reportedly top-notch, based on forum feedback.

Pros:
  • Fast setup
  • Easy storage
  • Portable. I can take it to my parents' house in the back of my truck or set it up in my own driveway if I have an inoperable car.
  • Better than ramps for 90% of what I use ramps to do. Easier to use than ramps on a lowered car.
  • Eliminates the age-old issue that some cars have when jacking them up that you can't jack the car then use jackstands on the optimum locations because the floor jack and jackstands either use the same jack points or interfere in their footprint during placement. Solid axle vehicles and well-designed AWD/FWD vehicles have lift points AND jackstand points, but not all cars are like this. The EZCL eliminates this problem.
  • When in use, does not increase the footprint of the vehicle. THis is important if the car will be on the lift for several days or longer.

Cons:
  • For what it costs (almost $2000), you get convenience and a little capability that ramps don't offer, but at the end of the day, you are STILL laying under a car.
  • Capacity is "only" 4400#.
  • Owner insulted me (maybe unintentionally).
  • I have to spend an extra $80 for the accessory needed to lift the TL. MAY need something different to lift the Comanche (will have to measure the unit if/when it arrives).




Cliffs Notes:

The MaxJax major issue is setup time (particularly when compared to the 90 seconds for the ezcarlift). The ezcarlift does not get me much extra capability, but it buys me some "ease" in doing tasks (such as getting the vehicle in a stable servicing status). The MaxJax buys me MORE convenience, but again, at the cost of setup time. Buying nothing saves me about $2000.

Thoughts, as I pull the trigger?
 
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Angelfire

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Seeing the ezcarlift for the first time. Looks like glorified jack stands to me. Kind of defeats the purpose of buying a lift if you're still going to be working off your back. Regarding the MaxJack, some have them and love them. Personally I don't think I'd enjoy it much as it just doesn't get high enough. I'd have to work from a chair or lower it and work off my back. For that kind of $$ I'd be seriously looking at a 4 post or 2 post lift.
 

zmotorsports

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Wow, that is a tough one. The biggest advantage of a true lift for me was the fact that I can stand underneathe of the vehicle and walk to the toolbox without getting up off of a creeper.


What it really comes down to is the cost of convenience and capability. In almost 20 years of working on cars, I have been able to do pretty much everything that I wanted with ramps and jacks/stands, but getting under cars, fighting out from under cars to get the tool that I forgot, and generally putting off jobs because of the difficulty of the jobs has me considering a lift. I am not going to get any more excited to climb under a car, and a lift seems like a 1-time purchase with a LONG time of benefits.

This is almost exactly the way I looked at it. I still want to be able to spin wrenches at 60-70 years old and the last few years my back was starting to feel it. I looked at the lift as a one time purchase for a lifetime of benefits just like you.

If I still had to use a creeper I think I would just continue using jackstands and bank the money.

Mike.
 
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phenryiv1

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Dan Babb

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Just on principal, I wouldn't give a guy who insulted me a dime of my hard earned money. If he insults you while he's trying to get your money, why would you expect better (or even the same) courtesy when he has all your money?
 
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phenryiv1

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Just on principal, I wouldn't give a guy who insulted me a dime of my hard earned money. If he insults you while he's trying to get your money, why would you expect better (or even the same) courtesy when he has all your money?

I thought the same. WHen I tried to knock down the price a bit (and this was after 6-7 emails discussing price and options), here was his reply:

"I am very disappointed after reading your email. I will suggest you should stop driving and racing and waiting for the gas to go down to where it was 3 to 4 years ago. And again, one of those days China will still the design and dump it on the market for less."

I had asked if there might be a group buy coming up, as I am not in a rush and was willing to wait to save a couple hundred bucks, and that was the reply. I found out that the GD threads were a few years old, but I was taken aback by the general tone. He DID offer to let me start a group deal (which I might do if I decide on the EZCL), but the tone toward a potential buyer took me by surprise.
 
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Olyar15

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I owned an EZcarlift, got rid of it, and am planning on getting a MaxJax for my garage. Like you, mine is pretty small, at 24x26, and only a 10' height. I also need something that isn't permanent since I park my cars in the garage.

Wasn't too thrilled with the operation of the EZCL. For the money, I think the MaxJax would be more useful.
 

torquepower85

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The MaxJax seems like the better choice of the 2 lifts. The 4400-lbs. rating on the EZ lift just seems too close for comfort.

For about the same price you can get the MaxJax which just seems like a beefier lift that's got all the features of a full-sized lift (minus height) and you can just unbolt it and put it away. It also goes higher up than the EZcar lift.

Plus any questions you have you can find the answers to most of them just right here on the GJ.

On the other hand, the EZcar lift doesn't require bolts - which does take a couple minutes to undo. Wish you well on your search for more feedback, good luck on whatever you go with. :beer:
 

Falcon67

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I mussed over this a while. Running out of build money made the choice of "none" easy. :lol: However, a quick lift jack and good stands make things go quick. I pretty much decided that if I was going to have a lift, I'd have a 4 post and make attic space for it so I could store a car under. Otherwise - I'm 56 and not getting any younger but I can slide around on that epoxy pretty well still. I do a lot of engine/trans pulls but on the hot rods it's easier to just yank the pair out together. Not much under work involved. If I was able to choose from your list and could not modify the building enough to clear a 4 post, then Max Jax.
 

DARK AGE 53

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Maybe not what you're looking for but I found them interesting,
. I e-mailed the maker and ask the cost, $590 plus shipping.
 
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phenryiv1

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A scissor lift is out because I pull exhaust, driveshafts, transamissions, etc. when working on my project cars (I am on my 5th "old" BMW now).

we've done all this work with my scissor
A scissor lift also has the complication of storage when not in use, much like the Bendpac LR-60 suggested above.

Either option would have received more serious consideration if not for the storage issue. The BendPack more than a scissor lift, but both were hampered by my inability to allocate floorspace to a lift with that large of a footprint.

Maybe not what you're looking for but I found them interesting,
. I e-mailed the maker and ask the cost, $590 plus shipping.
Pretty cool, but would not help with brake and suspension work. Good concept, though.
 

olytdi

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The MJ isn't anything you want to unbolt and move on a whim. I put mine in with one column near a wall and consider that a permenent post. The other (about a third into the main shop area) would be the one to be pulled and moved if I needed contiguous space for a project and I found it was in the way. Plus, the column is 300 lbs. Not too bad to wheel about but it isn't easy to lay it down or pick it up. I also plumbed mine straight up and overhead with the pump and reservoir on the wall. Nothing in the way when wanting to roam around under the car. This was a big improvement and won't affect portability unless you need to move the pump itself.

I like the MJ alot and use it frequently. My only complaint is that I need to be sitting on a stool that is only 8 inches in height in order to freely move about without banging my head -- and I'm under 6 ft tall! So I've done some modifying of my homemade creeper stool and probably will move toward mounting a car seat on a dolly for working under my cars in a more relaxed posture. I agree that using anything other than a full height lift kinda ***** in terms of having to get up every time you need to get a tool but I happily live with that as the MJ, in my opinion, is the most capable of the choices at hand.
 

ket-tek

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I installed a maxjax for a friend in a similar sized garage as yours, and it is very nice. We put one post off to one side and the other in the middle of the garage, he just removes the one in the middle and leaves the other one in place all the time.

I would be more awesome if it lifted higher, but then it wouldn't be the convenient, mobile, small-garage-mini-2-post that it is. Lifting height is the tradeoff that had to be made.

But otherwise I wouldn't hesitate to purchase one if I had a short ceiling or small garage.
 

volaredon

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Who was it (BP or maybe Rotary) that had a single post lift...
that said in all the shops I have worked in nobody stayed in teh car while up on the lift (unless needed to operate something to help pinpoint an issue) that said, the only guy that I ever saw that had trouble gettin out of a car on any above ground twin post (as the car would sit if just "parked there") was about 5'9". and over 500 lb. so dont limit yourself to a max jax type setup and certainly don't limit yourself to a new out of the crate lift.
 
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HIRISC

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I don't know that i have a place to stow it when not in use. I did look at it in my searching, but I believe that I ruled it out based on having to park on it when not in use. I can't imagine that snow/water runoff is good for it.

Understood. Storing it is one of the downsides.

How about this solution by Eddies GTS (and others)? It's a bit of work, but awesome in it's 'not really there' ness.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174954

DSCN4914.jpg


289.jpg
 
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Jvvmusme

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Cons
It costs $2000.
It takes 10-15 minutes to setup. For a tire rotation, I might be able to do it faster with jacks (I have 3) and stands (I have 4). For brakes, suspension, etc., the setup time will probably make it worth setup time.
Not portable (without buying more anchors).
Increases the footprint of a car being serviced.

Answers
1. If you have the money spend it ASAP. Otherwise the fridge and the oven in your kitchen will break and you will have to change them or worst scenario the IRS will steal it from you.
2. The set up time is nothing compared to the convenience of access having a maxjax and less back pain.
3. A set of anchors in 80 dlls.
4. You can park your daily driver outside while you work on a specific task using the maxjax
 

Jvvmusme

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I bought an ezlift 3 years ago. It only is usefull for brake and tyre rotation.
I now have a Maxax and the situation is completely different. I can look under the complete car, work on it using the stool and most important is the complete access.
Recently I changed the brake master cylinder of an MG TD and that task with an scissor lift is impossible and with a maxjax was quite comfortable, clean and easy.
Conclusion
Either buy a Maxjax or stay with your jack stands.
 
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phenryiv1

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I'd go with the MaxJax or just stay with jackstands. With jackstands you can lay under the car for $2000.00 less.

I have the MaxJax, I've never had to take the posts down for storage, If thats an issue you could just take down one? You can park with them installed.

See mine here, videos and photos: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140674

I love the garage- and thank you for the link. In the event that I buy the MJ and have any install issues, those threads linked in there are a HUGE plus. My big worry is indeed wwith the anchors. I still need to drill my slab to determine whether or not the MJ is a viable option, but much of my house (a custom-built house) was ove-engineered based on my experience as a construction project manager. That is part of what led me to buy it. (It did have a few curious design elements, but not associated with the garage.)
 

VWPORSCHEGT3

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I love that in Ground lift one... I've seen several members do that , best on space savings and such.. i would do that if i only had a standard two car garage, which....I do..lol
 
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phenryiv1

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(All of the below pertains to the MaxJax)

I...plumbed mine straight up and overhead with the pump and reservoir on the wall. Nothing in the way when wanting to roam around under the car. This was a big improvement and won't affect portability unless you need to move the pump itself.
GREAT idea. I keep saying that I need to do this with my 33 gal compressor (which I store in an attic space above the garage), but I get sidetracked on other things...like working on cars. I will really have to look into this, as it would potentially allow me to leave the control unit in one place along a wall and not have to move it. That is 1 less step to the setup of the lift when I want to use it.

My only complaint is that I need to be sitting on a stool that is only 8 inches in height in order to freely move about without banging my head -- and I'm under 6 ft tall!
I am only 5'5" tall, so being under the lift- particularly in a chair or roller seat- will be less of an issue for me than for you lucky tall people.
 
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phenryiv1

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Understood. Storing it is one of the downsides.

How about this solution by Eddies GTS (and others)? It's a bit of work, but awesome in it's 'not really there' ness.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174954

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l54/HIRISC/DSCN4914.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l54/HIRISC/289.jpg

I had looked into those as well (after reading Jack Olsen's build and a couple links in that thread).

I have to be totally honest- if I had the time right now, that would be a great long-term solution. As it stands, I get the feeling that I'd NEVER finish that project. If I was building a new garage, that would be a very strong candidate. That being said, I do intend to build an additional 2+ car (2 car bays plus additional depth and width for storage, work space, etc.) garage in the next 5 years. When that happens, I will make the decision on another lift or moving whatever I buy now to the new space. The new space will be for working, not parking, so a more permanent install would be feasible. If I plan to keep one lift, the MJ seems like the logical choice, as I could still roll it the 20-30 feet to the original (attached) garage for use in the original anchors.
 
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phenryiv1

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Martinsburg, WV
Cons
It costs $2000.
It takes 10-15 minutes to setup. For a tire rotation, I might be able to do it faster with jacks (I have 3) and stands (I have 4). For brakes, suspension, etc., the setup time will probably make it worth setup time.
Not portable (without buying more anchors).
Increases the footprint of a car being serviced.

Answers
1. If you have the money spend it ASAP. Otherwise the fridge and the oven in your kitchen will break and you will have to change them or worst scenario the IRS will steal it from you.
2. The set up time is nothing compared to the convenience of access having a maxjax and less back pain.
3. A set of anchors in 80 dlls.
4. You can park your daily driver outside while you work on a specific task using the maxjax

Good points- all of them. In response to the first one, I rarely have $2k in disposible/unobligated funds sittint around, but I sold a set of wheels and tires that I no longer needed and I have an extra $800. That (and the current sales) makes me want to do this now and not later.

My ONLY hesitation is that I wanted to keep some "mad" money on-hand around Christmas for extras. Unfortunately, I can't wait forever to purchase at the sale price. Fortunately, I will be buying this out of all "mad" money and not family salaries. This is all paid for out of my car fund/stash.
 

dmeadow

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FWIW, one advantage to the ezcarlift you didn't point out is that you move it easily if you need to work on a car someplace besides in your garage. Like in your driveway, at a friend's house, etc. I'd love to have one to use at the racetrack, but just can't justify the expense.

I say this as someone that has a Maxjax and I'm thrilled with it. I wouldn't (and didn't) buy the ezcarlift precisely because I thought the Maxjax was much better value for the money and worked better for the serious car work I do.
 
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phenryiv1

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FWIW, one advantage to the ezcarlift you didn't point out is that you move it easily if you need to work on a car someplace besides in your garage. Like in your driveway, at a friend's house, etc. I'd love to have one to use at the racetrack, but just can't justify the expense.

:D

3. ezcarlift:

Pros:
  • Portable. I can take it to my parents' house in the back of my truck or set it up in my own driveway if I have an inoperable car.

I say this as someone that has a Maxjax and I'm thrilled with it. I wouldn't (and didn't) buy the ezcarlift precisely because I thought the Maxjax was much better value for the money and worked better for the serious car work I do.
Seems that the recommendations are leaning that way.
 

Olyar15

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One thing to keep in mind about using the EZcarlift with multiple cars is that it is a fixed size, and won't work with all vehicles. I found that out when I tried to get my friend's Volvo wagon onto it. The car's lift points were just beyond the size of the lift. Also, the lift has a minimum height of about 4.5 inches, so when using it on a lowered vehicle you will have to drive it onto some ramps or pieces of wood to get the lift in place.
 
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phenryiv1

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One thing to keep in mind about using the EZcarlift with multiple cars is that it is a fixed size, and won't work with all vehicles. I found that out when I tried to get my friend's Volvo wagon onto it. The car's lift points were just beyond the size of the lift. Also, the lift has a minimum height of about 4.5 inches, so when using it on a lowered vehicle you will have to drive it onto some ramps or pieces of wood to get the lift in place.

Yeah, I saw that. The Acura requires an Ramp Extension Kit ($79) and the Comanche may or may not even work with it based on width. There is a note that a Cherokee requires a more narrow set of lifting pads than the "standard" ones (no notes on the Comanche, but the track width and frame width is the same between the 2 vehicles), so I might have had to order a second set of width spacers to make it work with my truck.

The BMW and the WRX both use the basic setup.

The additional costs needed to fit all of my vehicles is what gave me pause when I was about to order last week.

You CAN slide it in from the side on most vehicles, lowered or not. Nothing that I have is closer to the ground than than 4.5" at the drip rails.
 

west coast

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I have been dealing with this dilema as well and ordered the ez carlift, I had no trouble with the maufacturer but did not try to haggle on the price, I found him easy to deal with. I looked at the Max Jax as well but it does not really seem to be that portable, it is very heavy, and you have to be sure of the quality of your concrete or the lift could collapse if it pulled out of the floor, I didn't feel that it would really work for my situation, so I went with EZ carlift, hope that it works out.
 

demoderbydave

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I have had my Maxjax for a year and a half and LOVE it. I also mounted one post near the wall and mounted the pump on the wall. That side never moves.
I can unbolt the other and move it in less than 10 minutes. I ran the hose for the removable one on the ceiling like many others here have and other than that side being a little slower (understandably)it is WELL worth the money. YES you can't stand under it and yes you can buy a "real" lift for the same or less $ but if you don't have the ceiling height this is the way to go!
I sometimes still use my jack/jackstands but NOTHING beats a two post lift. Buy it you won't regret it! :3gears:
 
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phenryiv1

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So I am still waffling on ordering this. I re-measured and I am fairly confident that I can get the one post close enough to the wall to leave it inplace, BUT it has to be on my wife's side of the garage (further from my tools).

I was wondering- when you mount the posts, I ASSUME that when using the lift it is besto have the car as close to the center of the two posts as possible when lifting, correct? Meaning that the car should not be much closer to one post than the other.

The reason that I ask is that if I use the best "outer" post position, when I place the "inner" post I will have to place it in such a location that parking a second car in there with thte inner post in place will be tight. Not impossible- just tight.
 

dmeadow

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So I am still waffling on ordering this. I re-measured and I am fairly confident that I can get the one post close enough to the wall to leave it inplace, BUT it has to be on my wife's side of the garage (further from my tools).

I was wondering- when you mount the posts, I ASSUME that when using the lift it is besto have the car as close to the center of the two posts as possible when lifting, correct? Meaning that the car should not be much closer to one post than the other.

The reason that I ask is that if I use the best "outer" post position, when I place the "inner" post I will have to place it in such a location that parking a second car in there with thte inner post in place will be tight. Not impossible- just tight.

I would agree that it is "best" to have the car centered, although there is probably a little bit of leeway to either side.

I think your bigger challenge would be positioning the arms under the right lifting points under the car you are lifting. The arms have only a certain flexibility as to length and if you put the towers too close you might have trouble lifting different cars. For example, the lift points are pretty far apart on my Jag XKE, which means the lift points can only be reached with the arms fully extended, the towers fairly close together, and the arms at a very wide angle. When putting my short-wheelbased MINI on the lift, the arms are completely collapsed and the angle between the arms is quite narrow.

I had to do a lot of measuring and drawing on the garage floor to make sure I got the posts installed at exactly the right distance apart to work for all my cars.

Also, in your measuring, did you allow for some clearance behind the post against the wall? Remember, you're going to have a hydraulic hose angling out of the back of that tower.

I assume the "inner" post is the one in the center of the garage and the "outer" is the one against the wall?
 
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phenryiv1

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I assume the "inner" post is the one in the center of the garage and the "outer" is the one against the wall?

Correct.

I would agree that it is "best" to have the car centered, although there is probably a little bit of leeway to either side.

I think your bigger challenge would be positioning the arms under the right lifting points under the car you are lifting. The arms have only a certain flexibility as to length and if you put the towers too close you might have trouble lifting different cars.

I had to do a lot of measuring and drawing on the garage floor to make sure I got the posts installed at exactly the right distance apart to work for all my cars.
I did consider the different lifting points on the various cars, and your (shortened in this quote) explaination was very accurate in why that has to be done. Having done a lot of reading on the MaxJax up to this point, I made sure to keep that in mind.

Also, in your measuring, did you allow for some clearance behind the post against the wall? Remember, you're going to have a hydraulic hose angling out of the back of that tower.

In my potential positioning, I left the outer post about 12-14" from the wall, and on top of that the post is in front of a window with a sill height of 16-18" (I live 200+ feet from the road, so who cares if the post is in front of a window?) so I have about 6" more of back-clearance. I liked that location partially because it will allow for semi-permanent routing of the line to that side.
 
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