Garage Block for wall

[Elmo77166]

I am going to build a 24x24 garage in the spring. I am using a kit from a local lumber yard. The walls are 2x4x10 studs on a 16 center. I want to install the walls on 3 course of block. The block is being laid on a concrete pad. My question is can I use 6 inch instead of 8 inch block? The block will have rebar stickers epoxied to the pad and the cells will be grouted full to the top. and threaded bolts in the block to bolt on the sill plate.

 

[PAToyota]

Shouldn't be a problem. I used 8" block but then there is a "shelf" where the framed wall meets the block wall.

 

[AZ Pete]

I'm not a mason, but you can get "bond beam" blocks to run a perimeter of rebar, which will significantly strengthen the grouted block layers.

 

[larry4406]

Unless the garage is partially buried, why put block on slab to put studs on block? Just use longer studs and be done with it. Three courses is 24" inches (two feet) right? Use 2x6x12' studs and skip the block altogether to net same height. Framing labor costs will be no different and you can skip the mason. Make sure your siding flashing overlaps the slab edge so no leaks.

 

[Doug B]

I did something similar. I built on an 8" stem wall,but the top 3 courses (2 above grade) are 6" block. With 2x6 framing, there is no annoying ledge around the inside of the garage.
I like a few courses of block on top of a slab...helps keep snow,rain and bugs away from the wood.

 

[camarotoolman]

I would go up the way up with the block, srong, termit proof , fire proof, not that much more money than wood. About everything here in FL is block.

 

[DonnyT]

I would check with the local building dept. They can ruin things fairly easy if not to their standards.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Unless the garage is partially buried, why put block on slab to put studs on block?

Putting one or more courses of block on top of the slab isn't uncommon - it gets the wood walls up from the ground and helps protect them from moisture, both from the inside and outside. In snow country it's a good idea. My garage has a single course of block, but two or three should be okay as well.

 

[kbs2244]

As Stuart said:
Running a three block high perimeter wall around a garage is a half day job for a mason and a labor.

It makes the normal eight foot wall a twelve foot , and it does a lot for moisture problem at the wall base.

IMHO it is well worth it.
Even if you have to pay for it to be done.

 

[911mike]

Unless the garage is partially buried, why put block on slab to put studs on block? Just use longer studs and be done with it. Three courses is 24" inches (two feet) right? Use 2x6x12' studs and skip the block altogether to net same height. Framing labor costs will be no different and you can skip the mason. Make sure your siding flashing overlaps the slab edge so no leaks.

The few course of block really make the area more watertight and if you like to hose out or power wash it's MUCH better. I ran 4 ft of block and 10ft studs and epoxy coated the floor and used a block filler and then more epoxy on the block. I can wash cars in the area and don't have any moisture issues. I would highly recommend a few courses of block on any new build.

 

[PAToyota]

Unless the garage is partially buried, why put block on slab to put studs on block?

Putting one or more courses of block on top of the slab isn't uncommon - it gets the wood walls up from the ground and helps protect them from moisture, both from the inside and outside. In snow country it's a good idea.

This. I see a lot of rotten sill plates - even pressure treated - when they're just off the ground. And I can hose down my workshop floor without worrying about the drywall/framed wall getting wet.

 

[joes169]

I am going to build a 24x24 garage in the spring. I am using a kit from a local lumber yard. The walls are 2x4x10 studs on a 16 center. I want to install the walls on 3 course of block. The block is being laid on a concrete pad. My question is can I use 6 inch instead of 8 inch block? The block will have rebar stickers epoxied to the pad and the cells will be grouted full to the top. and threaded bolts in the block to bolt on the sill plate.

I don't see a problem with it necessarily, but your building dept. may want some engineering done on it. There is a "hinge point" created where the wood & CMU walls come together, and an overbearing building dept. may take issue with it, but it's not much to overcome IMO.

I would also consider upgrading to 2x6 studs, as it will flush out far better on the inside of the garage, for a very small amount of additional money.

One more thing, if I was pouring the slab & laying the block (I'm a conc./mason contractor) I'd spend a few minutes before pouring doing the block layout, and just "stab" the dowels into the fresh concrete rather than dink around with the expensive epoxy later.......

 

[Kevin54]

Seeing that you are in Pennsylvania, are you sure you're allowed to pour a slab and put block on top? I know that in Ohio we had to carry the block down to the frost line which was 36".

 

[theoldwizard1]

... why put block on slab to put studs on block? Just use longer studs and be done with it. Three courses is 24" inches (two feet) right? ...

A lot of local codes not require some type of a "curb" around the perimeter, although I don't think you need one 24" high.

As for the 6" versus 8", check with your local inspector. After all, he is the one who has to approve it !

 

[NUTTSGT]

Seeing that you are in Pennsylvania, are you sure you're allowed to pour a slab and put block on top? I know that in Ohio we had to carry the block down to the frost line which was 36".

I was thinking the same thing as Kevin, please tell us there is a foundation under the slab and not just a pad poured on the ground.

 

[coljar]

I would go up the way up with the block, srong, termit proof , fire proof, not that much more money than wood. About everything here in FL is block.

That would probably be ok in FL, but here in Ohio, I have a block building and a pole building. The block building is cold in the winter and damp at other times depending on the humidity. Insulating my new pole building was far easier and cheaper.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Whether they are allowed will depend on local regulations, but slabs work just fine in cold areas - for instance, they're very common in Minnesota. My garage was built on a slab with no frost footing, with a single course of block on top. I would suggest the same, if you want a taller garage just build the stud walls higher on top of the single course.

 

[larry4406]

A competent concrete contractor is able to pour you a monolithic slab with integral frost footings and integral 8" tall stem walls to enable the sill plate to be above slab level. This is done quite often.

 

[LutzTD]

That would probably be ok in FL, but here in Ohio, I have a block building and a pole building. The block building is cold in the winter and damp at other times depending on the humidity. Insulating my new pole building was far easier and cheaper.

A good block sealer will take care of that, I had a block garage in Cincy and it sweated until I enclosed the eaves and sealed the block. It was still cold though.

 

[Elmo77166]

There is a existing 12x24 slab with a framed garage on it now. I was planning to add another 12x24 pad next to it an build on top on them both. If i need to dig a footer I will need to cut the existing pad to add one. The 3 courses of block are so I can have a 12 foot ceiling height for a lift The kit plans I were going to use only have 8 and 10 foot walls. I am going to call the building inspector tomorrow to see what he says.

 

[Elmo77166]

Talked to the building inspector. He wants a mininum 12" monolithic footer and the setback is changed from 2 foot for a shed to 25 foot for a garage. the 12x24 I have now is considered a shed. I can get it as a 24x24 shed but can only get 1 8x7 overhead door. If i use two doors it now becomes a garage. Which with the setback puts it in the middle of the yard. Just going to have to deal with the 12x24 for now.

 

[Kevin54]

Talked to the building inspector. He wants a mininum 12" monolithic footer and the setback is changed from 2 foot for a shed to 25 foot for a garage. the 12x24 I have now is considered a shed. I can get it as a 24x24 shed but can only get 1 8x7 overhead door. If i use two doors it now becomes a garage. Which with the setback puts it in the middle of the yard. Just going to have to deal with the 12x24 for now.

Sometimes there are loopholes. What if you built another 12' x 24' detached but tied them together with a small roof? Then later on down the line add some sides to the roof. I know that a lot of people are limited on the size unless it is tied into the house and they do that with a breezway. Just a thought.