Modifications to the HF 4 and 5 drawer service carts - what changes have you made?

[k-os]

so i just priced out a 4.5" x 4.5" square steel tube. the smallest i can order it online is 2 ft, and its 79 dollars. i think the wood blocks will have to remain for a while longer..

I would just use a piece of aluminum round stock between each caster mounting hole. Some 1" OD should be plenty to space it out with.

 

[Bob Heine]

so i just priced out a 4.5" x 4.5" square steel tube. the smallest i can order it online is 2 ft, and its 79 dollars. i think the wood blocks will have to remain for a while longer..

I've used Online Metals for small pieces of stainless and copper. If you can use a 2x4" rectangular steel tube for the wheel spacers, this might be an alternative:
https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=10181&step=4&showunits=inches&id=241&top_cat=849

 

[kool_BOY8323]

What if you use taller casters under the side shelf so that the wood doesn't need to be as thick and therefore doesn't show? But if you don't mind the wood showing I say there's nothing wrong with it. Wood is more then adequate for that.

i considered 7" casters first, but my OCD kicked in and i wanted all the casters to match. then i couldnt find the locking swivels like the cart had, and my budget put me into the ones on the cart.

also, the wood has to be 4.5 inches, so id have to have some oddball sized casters, like 7.5 inch or something, to tuck the wood under the skirt on the cab. ill get it figured out, and it will look clean, its just a matter of time now. maybe ill focus on it a bit harder when im off school for the summer. we'll see.

 

[kool_BOY8323]

I've used Online Metals for small pieces of stainless and copper. If you can use a 2x4" rectangular steel tube for the wheel spacers, this might be an alternative:
https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=10181&step=4&showunits=inches&id=241&top_cat=849

i understand that unlike wood, a 2x4 in steel is truly 2x4" is that correct or are the dimensions the same as in wood?

 

[kool_BOY8323]

I would just use a piece of aluminum round stock between each caster mounting hole. Some 1" OD should be plenty to space it out with.

so you're saying run the stock around just the bolts? that would be an incredibly simple and elegant solution, not to mention give it a sort of industrial look. i'll consider it. thanks for the idea man!

 

[k-os]

so you're saying run the stock around just the bolts? that would be an incredibly simple and elegant solution, not to mention give it a sort of industrial look. i'll consider it. thanks for the idea man!

Right, face the round stock off to the length you need (8 pieces total) and then drill your clearance hole through them all. Be sure to chamfer and break any edges to reduce any scratching. If you have access to a lathe it'd be pretty easy to do.

 

[ex-x-fire]

Do you have access to a welder? You could make something like this w/ square pieces of 3/16 flat metal & 1.5" diameter plumbing pipe.

 

[kool_BOY8323]

Right, face the round stock off to the length you need (8 pieces total) and then drill your clearance hole through them all. Be sure to chamfer and break any edges to reduce any scratching. If you have access to a lathe it'd be pretty easy to do.

Do you have access to a welder? You could make something like this w/ square pieces of 3/16 flat metal & 1.5" diameter plumbing pipe.

both are awesome ideas, you guys have really started my gears going. ill get something done im sure, and ill post pics when its complete.

i dont have a lathe, but your idea has given me another, and no welder either, so its all up to hand tools, nuts and bolts.

 

[Bob Heine]

i understand that unlike wood, a 2x4 in steel is truly 2x4" is that correct or are the dimensions the same as in wood?

kool_BOY8323,

You're right. A steel tube (round, square or rectangular) is the real dimension. So the outside dimensions of that 2x4 tube in that link is two-inches by four inches. Of course, just like lumber, pipe dimensions are not true dimensions so be careful if you decide to use pieces of pipe.

Instead of using the rectangular tube like your pieces of wood, why not use it like the round tube suggestion. As long as one of the outside dimensions matches your caster mounting flange and the bolts fit within the inner dimension of the rectangular (or square) tubing, you should have a really strong and neat looking setup.

 

[kool_BOY8323]

kool_BOY8323,

You're right. A steel tube (round, square or rectangular) is the real dimension. So the outside dimensions of that 2x4 tube in that link is two-inches by four inches. Of course, just like lumber, pipe dimensions are not true dimensions so be careful if you decide to use pieces of pipe.

Instead of using the rectangular tube like your pieces of wood, why not use it like the round tube suggestion. As long as one of the outside dimensions matches your caster mounting flange and the bolts fit within the inner dimension of the rectangular (or square) tubing, you should have a really strong and neat looking setup.

the caster mounting plate measures 4"x4.5" and the drop has to be 4.5" if i run the tube vertically from the box to the caster plate, the drop isnt an issue as i can cut it to fit, but i cant find a 4" x 4.5" steel tube. i can find 4.5" x 4.5", but that will be too large to run vertically, so i cut a 17" piece and run it like i did the wood and that will work, but it will only look slightly better than the wood. i really wanna run the steel vertical, i think that would look awesome. i was even considering 1" box tubing and running that vertically along all the bolts, similar to the round stock idea. so far that is what is proving to be the most do-able for what is available to me. unless i can get my local steel yard to make the piece for me..hmm

 

[Bob Heine]

i really wanna run the steel vertical, i think that would look awesome. i was even considering 1" box tubing and running that vertically along all the bolts, similar to the round stock idea. so far that is what is proving to be the most do-able for what is available to me. unless i can get my local steel yard to make the piece for me..hmm

I was thinking two 0.12" thick 2"x4" tubes 4.5" long for each caster, mounted vertically and separated by 1/2". Online Metals sells pieces of those tubes 10" long for $9.01. Two of them would run you $18.02 plus shipping. You could cut up the leftover pieces of tubing to make reinforcement plates to go inside the box, instead of just washers. Not as cheap as the wood and maybe your local steel yard but it's a far cry from $75.

Of course you still need some 5" bolts to make this design work. Not sure what diameter you need but eight 5" long 1/4-20 grade 5 bolts from Bolt Depot runs $2.80 plus shipping. Your local hardware store may have them as well.

 

[kool_BOY8323]

I was thinking two 0.12" thick 2"x4" tubes 4.5" long for each caster, mounted vertically and separated by 1/2". Online Metals sells pieces of those tubes 10" long for $9.01. Two of them would run you $18.02 plus shipping. You could cut up the leftover pieces of tubing to make reinforcement plates to go inside the box, instead of just washers. Not as cheap as the wood and maybe your local steel yard but it's a far cry from $75.

Of course you still need some 5" bolts to make this design work. Not sure what diameter you need but eight 5" long 1/4-20 grade 5 bolts from Bolt Depot runs $2.80 plus shipping. Your local hardware store may have them as well.

im using 1/4-20 now, i was thinking of bumping up to 5/16 bolts just because. and i hadnt considered spacing the 2x4 steel out. that solves that problem rather nicely. then after all is said and done i just might cut a strip of sheet metal to go around the bottom and dress up the edge. rattle can it red and be done with it. it is a working box after all. doesnt have to be too pretty, just enough that i can take pride in it.

 

[kool_BOY8323]

I just went to the Snap-On parts website to order the lid hinge set

your pics dont seem to work here either man...???

 

[ex-x-fire]

Got some pictures of my budget side shelfs, I mounted them so they are at the same height as the top shelf.

 

[alpinewhite]

Got some pictures of my budget side shelfs, I mounted them so they are at the same height as the top shelf.

Very nice. A few squirts of rattle can red on the shelf supports would make them look totally stock.

 

[STGFordCrazy04]

Looks great but without any disrespect a Sunex side shelf is literally $28 to your door.

Anything more than drilling 4 holes is too much effort when a bolt on item is so readily available.


being said....it looks real good.

 

[kool_BOY8323]

Looks great but without any disrespect a Sunex side shelf is literally $28 to your door.

Anything more than drilling 4 holes is too much effort when a bolt on item is so readily available.


being said....it looks real good.

completely true, but bolt ons arent really in the spirit of mods.

at least not from my point of view.

 

[c.schulz]

Got some pictures of my budget side shelfs, I mounted them so they are at the same height as the top shelf.

OK here's the Q's. What, where and how did you get these? Ive been looking for something strong and reliable. They are a good size also(full depth)

Chris

 

[ex-x-fire]

I got my red cart last, found a pair of swivle casters locally for $12 each. Good quality rubber wheels. I might have to get a another set b/c they are red.
I'll worry about that later, I'm gonna make my side shelfs soon. I'm using those folding shelf brackets that oneandgone used. I'm using the 12" versions rated at 130lbs each.
For the shelf I'm using the top of a torin cart that I've had since the mid 90s, the bottom is damaged so it would have been scraped sooner or later. The top feels like its made from 12 gauge metal,plenty strong, I'm gonna cut it across the width wise.

I had one of these cheap tool trays at home, so I cut it in half.

 

[c.schulz]

I had one of these cheap tool trays at home, so I cut it in half.

Cool and what about the hinges?

Thanks Chris

 

[ex-x-fire]

I got the 12" hinges at menard's for under $5 each. The shelf measures out at 20" x 15". I wish it was 20x20 though. I welded a 3/4" strip along the back to keep things from falling in between the shelf & the cart. I glugged down some tool matting, we'll see how that holds up.

 

[ex-x-fire]

Look how crooked the US General badge is, the cart went togther just fine.

 

[c.schulz]

Thanks for the tips. Im on a search for the tray......

Chris

 

[oneandgone]

That turned out great X fire, nice work!

 

[ex-x-fire]

Thanks, when I was thinking about what to use for the shelf I looked at these drip pans. You could cut one in half to make a shelf, they are 12 bucks at walmart. The measure out to 47"x25".

 

[skulldrinker]

How do you decide which side to put the cabinet on? I am right handed so I think I'd want the added work surface on the right side.

 

[ex-x-fire]

I went cowboy style, did both sides.

 

[kool_BOY8323]

cleaned up the holes i had to make to mount the casters to the side box today. not necissary, but i had made them with a drill, hammer, and some pliers at home, so when i got a minute today at work i cleaned em up a bit with the cut off wheel.

then i put the whole thing on the lift to lube the casters. over kill sure, but my back loves me for it:

i chose the right for my cabinet mod because i had used red loctite when i assembled the cart, so moving the handle was not going to happen

i plan on coming up with a side table for the other side that either uses the handle as a support some how, or just goes around my air tools that are hung there. ideas ideas..

 

[alpinewhite]

i plan on coming up with a side table for the other side that either uses the handle as a support some how, or just goes around my air tools that are hung there. ideas ideas..

Side fold-away table may also go to the right of the 7-drawer.

 

[kool_BOY8323]

Side fold-away table may also go to the right of the 7-drawer.

oh yeah, but i dont wanna go too much farther to the right. its already pretty difficult to roll around in some spots of the shop. i think im going to come up with some sort of handle on the cabinet side and folding table on the other side, and maybe some sort of low profile handle on the back of the cart, just to give me more grabbing options when i have to go down the back hallway.

 

[alpinewhite]

oh yeah, but i dont wanna go too much farther to the right. its already pretty difficult to roll around in some spots of the shop. i think im going to come up with some sort of handle on the cabinet side and folding table on the other side, and maybe some sort of low profile handle on the back of the cart, just to give me more grabbing options when i have to go down the back hallway.

Before you know it, you'll be 44" wide. It would be the same width as the HF44 and it would be more expensive.

 

[kool_BOY8323]

Before you know it, you'll be 44" wide. It would be the same width as the HF44 and it would be more expensive.

i covered that a couple pages ago:

more of the same (and end to the madness):
so whaddya guys think? one last tidbit of interest, the cart is listed on HF.com as being 37.75" wide before the cabinet mod, add that 16.5" of cabinet and you're at 54.25" wide. so interestingly enough, doing this one mod may actually give you more or equal room but more usability than just getting the 44" 13 drawer lower cab from HF. and at right about the same price, maybe a bit more.

oh, and even if it is more spendy, its CUSTOM. not just 44" of HF goodness off the rack.

 

[skulldrinker]

The neighbor was throwing away pieces of old steel bed frame angle iron. (Can't believe the junk man didn't grab it first.) But this picture was the first thing that went though my mind when I went over and snatched it up. I have used bed frames before and find they are very hard and tough for their thickness. More than strong enough for a roller project like this.

 

[cheechi]

Hey Skull did you attach the 7 drawer side to the bottom or is it just hooked to the side? If so, how did you attach it?

 

[skulldrinker]

Thanks for your contribution!

Hey Skull did you attach the 7 drawer side to the bottom or is it just hooked to the side? If so, how did you attach it?

Sorry if I mislead you that is not my box. I was just using the photo to give a visual of my intended use of the angle iron I garbage picked. If you look back through the last few pages you'll see the makers post with more pics.

 

[paigej]

Thanks for your contribution!

Hey Skull did you attach the 7 drawer side to the bottom or is it just hooked to the side? If so, how did you attach it?

That's my box
I hooked it on the top side and bolted the bottom side to the cart. Then I bolted it to the rolling frame from underneath. The small notch on the top of the 7 drawer allows the lid to fully close as well.

 

[kool_BOY8323]

That's my box
I hooked it on the top side and bolted the bottom side to the cart. Then I bolted it to the rolling frame from underneath. The small notch on the top of the 7 drawer allows the lid to fully close as well.

i notched my lid too..

 

[cheechi]

I may have been not paying attention and/or having the last beer that night. I'm all caught up now, but either way it looks good, thanks for the info.

 

[kool_BOY8323]

width

its wider than the 44"

depth:

the cart is deeper than the 44" but the cab is not.

gap at back between cab and cart:

the cart is usually around 179, the cab is usually 199, the 44" is around 399.

so cab and cart combo is bigger, cheaper, and more fun to use than the 44 as a service cart goes. as far as a wall unit the 44" really cant be beat for the money.

 

[skulldrinker]

I would have to lean toward the advantage of the 44" flat top for it's work surface. It may be as big and clumsy rolling around pretending it's a service cart but when it comes time to finding a place to work on those struts or set those brake shoes or tie rods down I say that big flat top wins hands down. Especially in a deep 2-bay shop where the bench on the wall is 2 car lengths away.