BendPak: uneven lift arms

[Chuck79]

I purchased a model XPR-10A 2 post lift, when the vehicle is on the lift it leans to one side. I called BendPak support and told them of the lean. Without the tech investigating further I was told to "put the arms together, if their off, shim one side until their level”. I told him my posts were plumb and shimming them now would put them out of plumb and possibly mask another issue. I was told “an out of plumb post would be fine”. The tech told me I over tighten the base plate nuts when I mentioned I torqued them down to 95 ft lbs. When I stated the direction call for 95 ft lbs he said “oh, I guess its ok then”.

After ending our conversation I wasn’t comfortable with his plan for a fix so I called BendPak support again hoping to talk to another tech. I talked to tech named Tollman he seemed interested and helpful he asked me to take pictures of the arms together and send them in for his boss to review. I was told he would call back later that day or the next day. When the next day came without a call I called BendPak again and was disconnected while talking to my third tech. It’s been two days I haven’t heard back from BenPak and thought I’d post asking for your thoughts.

Both posts are plumb when unloaded and loaded. While in the locked position the arm base is level, the arm extensions are not.

Looking at the pic the power side post is on the left and non-power side on right. This is the strange part, when loaded the non power side rear arm is 1-1/4” lower then the power side rear arm. The front non-power arm is 3/4” lower then the power side front arm. When unloaded both power side post’s arms are lower then the non-power side (pictured).

I’m ruling out the floor being uneven base on the plumb posts and level arm base. Also ruling out the cables because their sitting in the locked position.

Arm base is level.

 

[Tripp2012]

Have you checked the adjustment on the equalizer cable? It's what keep the 2 sides running in the same plane. If it's off this is what you get, or it can cause one side to drop sooner that the other when you release and lower the lift. Bendpak is bad about not calling back. I've dealt with them for 12+ years. You have to hound the snot out of them to get things done.

 

[Chuck79]

Both arms are in the lock position which should rule out the cables however, I double checked the cables as well.

 

[Tripp2012]

Both arms are in the lock position which should rule out the cables however, I double checked the cables as well.

If your in the lock position and the carriers are in line with each other but the arms are not that leaves one thing. The arms are bent or assembled wrong at the factory. I have seen this on new Bendpak lifts before.

 

[Cryptic1911]

send a PM to JSK here on the garagejournal.. he's a VP over there

 

[Givl Reggin]

I've dealt with them for 12+ years. You have to hound the snot out of them to get things done.

And you still keep going back like a satisfied customer? After one bad customer service experience I would be looking for someone new.

 

[Chuck79]

I called Jeff today he wants me to shim the posts to level the pads which he feels will solve the problem. I have a question out to him on leveling the posts seeing their lower on either side depending on whether arms are loaded or not.

I'm having a hard time knowing the posts are plumb and the inner arms are dead-on level yet the extension arms are not. I plan to first swap the arms to see if the problem follows them.

 

[Chuck79]

Side note: There was some misunderstanding on their part between a couple of techs this is the reason I didn’t receive a return call. First impressions, Jeff has been good to work with, hopefully it continues.

 

[shurik06_83]

look inside the post their will be rollers that guide the carriage up the post ur faulty side could be missing a roller or the wrong rollers are in the wrong place giving u a tilt

 

[Chuck79]

I'll check that tomorrow as well, thanks

 

[kb2tha]

Keep this thread going through a conclusion. I have a friend with a BendPak and he is trying to convince me to get one. I'm not convinced yet.
Ken

 

[HAP]

I had this same condition with my new XPR-10. I knew my floor was not perfect and I did not want out-of-plumb columbs. It will most likely require an additional plate (shim) of some sort to bring them level to eachother. I just bought the screw adjustable pads to eliminate the uneveness. Also, they allow me to compensate for other minor problems if encoutered on different vehicles...

R,
HAP

 

[Bigshed]

Keep us posted this is the exact lift I have ben planning to put in my new shed this summer. There alot of manufacturer making lifts and customer service is very important to me. Thanks

 

[redwrench60]

Raise the lift saddles to waist high, get an assistant and pull the pins on both sets of lift arms and switch them side to side. If the low side is now reversed you have a bent or mis manufactured arm set. If it stays the same it's a cable adjustment issue or a lift post/floor leveling issue.

 

[fordsbyjay]

How is shimming the post a good idea? If they are not parallel to each other as you raise the lift up the arms will pull away from each other.

 

[redwrench60]

How is shimming the post a good idea? If they are not parallel to each other as you raise the lift up the arms will pull away from each other.

You shim the posts to make them level and parallel to each other. But it won't matter is the concretes not level or the arms or lift arm saddles are tweaked or mismatched. Most lifts I've seen aren't perfectly even when raised due to floor variations and manufacturing tolerances of the lifts.

 

[joedodge]

The rack I use at the dealer is slightly off like that also its a rotary. But because the floor slopes down to a drain channel. Since that's where the rack had to go they used a 1 inch thick steel plate to bolt down over the drain and make a level surface to bolt the rack down to.

 

[ringneck]

I have a dannmar that has a similar issue. Lifts level, but on the locks it is slightly lower on one side. The arms on each side are level with each other, but side to side they are not. I fiddled with it like crazy at install, and the only way to make them level was to shim the post out of plumb. This only corrected it at a specific extension of the arms, however. At full extension it reversed the tilt, fully contracted same tilt. This also made it lift uneven. I did not like this, so put the post back to plumb.

My impression is that the locks are off from sided to side. You can hear it while you lift, as the locks make a click-clack vs locking at the same time. Dreaming up a solution for that. Right now, I simply lift and settle on the high lock, and leave it like that. If there is a hydro failure, it will settle out of level. My concern is a failure while lifting and I am between the click and the clack, that could dump the vehicle...

My best idea to date, is to fab up a new locking arm to force them to level. The other idea, is to shim the low post higher, but keep it plumb.

Are the posts exactly the same height at the base?

I tried the same level setup you did, but think they looks so different because the error is exaggerated the further out the arm you go.

Sharing my experience, science we seem to be working a similar issue.

 

[NHBandit]

Would a mod PLEASE combine this thread with the other identical thread by this same OP ! Having 2 threads on the same issue is confusing.

 

[dipan]

Man I keep going back and forth between getting this lift and a Mohawk System 1. Now I'm leaning back to the Mohawk side. Please let us know how this is resolved for you. Thanks ...

 

[devoncoolman]

one of our bishman's at work is the same way but worse every car or truck you put on it leans to the left bad. it doesn't really effect the performance of the lift. some people think the lift should lift perfectly. but unfortunately the lifts aren't really built to extreme tollerences and your gonna have these issues. especially if you bought a overseas made model. most of the manufacturers have us made lifts and Chinese lifts. everyone buys the Chinese ones because they are $1000 - $1500 cheaper. but unfortunately this is what you get.

 

[Chuck79]

Thanks for the replies,

I swapped the arms, below is my findings.

Originally right side is high:

Right front (26 5/8”) left front (26 5/16”)
Right rear (27”) left rear (26 11/16”)

Swapped both legs over

Right front (26 5/8”) left front (26 7/16”)
Right rear (26 15/16”) left rear (26 5/8”)

It appears to rule out the arms.

I checked the posts to see if their parallel by moving the front arms together and measuring from each middle front pad. I measured twice once just above the floor and again at the top both measurements were the same at 18 ½”.

I have more work to do

 

[HAP]

I have a dannmar that has a similar issue. Lifts level, but on the locks it is slightly lower on one side. The arms on each side are level with each other, but side to side they are not. I fiddled with it like crazy at install, and the only way to make them level was to shim the post out of plumb. This only corrected it at a specific extension of the arms, however. At full extension it reversed the tilt, fully contracted same tilt. This also made it lift uneven. I did not like this, so put the post back to plumb.

My impression is that the locks are off from sided to side. You can hear it while you lift, as the locks make a click-clack vs locking at the same time. Dreaming up a solution for that. Right now, I simply lift and settle on the high lock, and leave it like that. If there is a hydro failure, it will settle out of level. My concern is a failure while lifting and I am between the click and the clack, that could dump the vehicle...

My best idea to date, is to fab up a new locking arm to force them to level. The other idea, is to shim the low post higher, but keep it plumb.

Are the posts exactly the same height at the base?

I tried the same level setup you did, but think they looks so different because the error is exaggerated the further out the arm you go.

Sharing my experience, science we seem to be working a similar issue.

Your "click clack" is an indication that your cable tension is uneven between sides. You should be able to adjust that to where you only here one click or clack; your choice.

R,
HAP

 

[Chuck79]

Are the posts exactly the same height at the base?

The post with the higher arms (right) is 144 3/4”

The other post is 144 11/16”

1/16” typically isn’t much but I feel it can make a big difference in the arms just like when you use 1 shim under the base and see a big difference. The shims that came with the lift is 1/16” thick. I have equal amount of shims on both sides.

 

[sevensandeights]

I have the same lift and have the same problem. My colums are perfectly plumb and it didn't make sense to me to make the arms level at the expense of the columns. There is only unequal lifting at the very beginning of the lift process - once the vehicle is off the ground there is equal weight on both sides (assuming the vehicle is centered and the lift arms are positioned appropriately. The unlevel arms bugged me at first but I have since forgotten about it.

After reading this thread, I looked at my lift again today. My longer lift arms are about 1/4" off. I have the "click-clack" sound for the first half of the lift and then just one "click" for the second half. I was going to adjust the cables to try and level things out but it's a ***** to do this. The nut on the threaded cable end is 18mm and I think would need a 24 or 25mm open end wrench. I don't remember what I did initially when I installed the lift because I don't have a metric wrench that large - I think I borrowed one from my father.

 

[Chuck79]

My cables seemed a little loose so I tighten both up (last Friday) I used a 1 1/16” socket that worked fine. Once the nut was further up the thread I tried a deep socket but it wouldn’t fit in the access hole, not having the proper size wrench I used an adjustable wrench, took a little extra time but did the trick.

After I tighten them up a bit I raised the lift and heard a click and a clack the right post was trailing. I called BendPak and asked what side I should tighten to equalize the trailing carriage (should I tighten the trailing side cable or the cable on the lead side?) The tech said he always has to double check which side to tighten so he put me on hold. After double checking he told me to "tighten the leading side cable to raise the trailing side”.

After about an hour adjusting the cables things weren’t getting any better, in fact they were getting worse. Turns out the tech gave me the wrong info it's the trailing side that needs to be tighten. I tightened the trailing side cable until I heard just one click.

Now to get my arms level……

 

[redwrench60]

We have a large lift in the truck shop that we couldn't get level (bad floor) so the foreman had a machine shop turn a couple inches off the right hand set of lift arm extensions to match the left.

 

[brownbagg]

i think you are being **** about this, i still dont see what the problem is

 

[Chuck79]

look inside the post their will be rollers that guide the carriage up the post ur faulty side could be missing a roller or the wrong rollers are in the wrong place giving u a tilt

I checked the 8 guides on each carriage and they appear to be in working order. I lightly greased the area where the guides run as well.

 

[darkk]

I've worked in the auto industry for around 50 years.. I don't tthink I've ever seen a lift *2 or 4* post that was perfect on both sides up or down. I seriously don't think you are going to find any manufactured lift that is perfectly aligned. It's a big hunk of iron designed to lift heavy things. It isn't a hand built Benz. I think as long as the lift functions safely and isn't grossly off, I'd call it a day. I think this is just the new toy syndrome, it isn't as perfect as you think it should be so you're getting a littel freaked about it. It's new, once that wears off you'll see it's a very large tool, use it for what it was designed for. Relax, sit back and say..WOW! I got a cool new lift. Have a beer with your buds and make them jealous....

 

[Chuck79]

Thanks for your comments,

When installing a two-post lift, what is more important - plumb columns or frame contact pads that are level with one another? We always recommend installing the columns in a manner that will result in the frame contact pads being level with one another. If the floor is perfectly level, then by all means, pay attention to the column plumbness. But again, always confirm that the frame contact pads are equal. – BendPak

I agree with BendPak my pads are 1 1/4” out of alignment.

 

[Tripp2012]

And you still keep going back like a satisfied customer? After one bad customer service experience I would be looking for someone new.

I worked for a distributor selling them.

 

[UPSHIFT]

I purchased a model XPR-10A 2 post lift, when the vehicle is on the lift it leans to one side. I called BendPak support and told them of the lean. Without the tech investigating further I was told to "put the arms together, if their off, shim one side until their level”. I told him my posts were plumb and shimming them now would put them out of plumb and possibly mask another issue. I was told “an out of plumb post would be fine”. The tech told me I over tighten the base plate nuts when I mentioned I torqued them down to 95 ft lbs. When I stated the direction call for 95 ft lbs he said “oh, I guess its ok then”.

After ending our conversation I wasn’t comfortable with his plan for a fix so I called BendPak support again hoping to talk to another tech. I talked to tech named Tollman he seemed interested and helpful he asked me to take pictures of the arms together and send them in for his boss to review. I was told he would call back later that day or the next day. When the next day came without a call I called BendPak again and was disconnected while talking to my third tech. It’s been two days I haven’t heard back from BenPak and thought I’d post asking for your thoughts.

Both posts are plumb when unloaded and loaded. While in the locked position the arm base is level, the arm extensions are not.

Looking at the pic the power side post is on the left and non-power side on right. This is the strange part, when loaded the non power side rear arm is 1-1/4” lower then the power side rear arm. The front non-power arm is 3/4” lower then the power side front arm. When unloaded both power side post’s arms are lower then the non-power side (pictured).

I’m ruling out the floor being uneven base on the plumb posts and level arm base. Also ruling out the cables because their sitting in the locked position.

Arm base is level.

Both arms are in the lock position which should rule out the cables however, I double checked the cables as well.

Hello Chuck,

I have a couple ideas that may help you..

1. Lock the lift on the first ladder.

2. Loosen anchor bolts on the left side.

3. Shim the lower post on the front side until arms are level.

The arms need to be level and flat, you should be able to do this without getting more than a 1/4" out of level with the column. The arms being level will override the column being perfectly plub..

Hope this Helps..

Gabe
800-261-7729 X 126

 

[Chuck79]

Thanks for the reply Gabe,

I will start with shimming the lower post front side first tomorrow and post my results. I was also told whatever side I shim I would need to shim the opposite side on the other post I’m assuming to keep the post parallel?

 

[Chuck79]

I previously shimmed the post to be plumb so I started from that point and moved forward. I shimmed the low side, front post, as Gabe suggested and there was improvement so I added some shims to the opposite post and got the front legs level. However, I could not get the back legs to level without adding more shims then I was comfortable using so I removed all the shims and stated clean. After awhile I was able to level the front legs dead-on and the back legs with the bubble kissing one line. One post is plumb the other is a hire off, both post are parallel. With the front legs together I measured mid-point on each pad at the first pin then raised the legs up and measured again finding the same distance. Both legs stayed level while moving from the bottom to the top.

Before


After




I feel much better working under this lift with the legs leveled.

The confusing part was the instruction manual focusing on making sure the post were plumb with no mention of leveling the legs opposed to BendPak techs who focus on leg leveling and post being plumb secondary. Once they sent me a PDF on their leg leveling reasoning I had a better understanding. I mentioned they should consider including the PDF wording in the instruction manual as well.

I had two parts that got banged up in shipping when I let BendPak know they were quick to send out new parts without any hassle. This makes me feel they will stand behind their warranty.

BendPak appears to be a quality lift I wouldn’t hesitate recommending to a friend.

Thanks to those members who offered help and to Bendpak for their assistance.

 

[gremlin]

Okay I've read through this thread but I'm still not sure what to do. I thought I had seen somewhere in my manuals for my Bendpak instructions on synchronizing the arms but now I can't find it. After using it maybe 10 times with our lighter cars we picked up the F150 to change it's tyres and now instead of an even clank as it goes up we get a click-wait-clack so it's not lifting evenly anymore. Also when I lower it, it definitely isn't coming down evenly one side of the car drops a bit faster than the other (by maybe an inch or two, it's noticeable but not yet threatening)

I'm assuming it's just cable stretch/seating that's occurred, but where do I find the procedure for getting this correct?

thank you!

 

[Muda]

After about an hour adjusting the cables things weren’t getting any better, in fact they were getting worse. Turns out the tech gave me the wrong info it's the trailing side that needs to be tighten. I tightened the trailing side cable until I heard just one click.

Yea, that worked. Thanks Chuck!

 

[Chuck79]

Glad I could help.