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Best 120V Air Compressor for Auto Shop

Top-Ten

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Jul 18, 2013
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I am sure that this is a redundant question but I searched through old posts and did not find one specific about the best 120V air compressor for an automotive shop using 1/2" hose with impact gun and related auto shop tools. I am not sanding or painting but need the best air compressor for a truck mechanic. Can anyone suggest the best air compressor for this application with the only requirement being 120V? Thanks in advance for your input...
 
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kenfain

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May 12, 2013
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just west of Walton
Okay, nobody's gonna ask? Why only 110? Your not gonna get enough cfm to run the required tools for mechanic work. I mean, it will put out about the rated cfm on the impact wrench. But everyone exaggerates their numbers. So the performance will be extremely marginal. It's why I went with a 220.now I'm just a homeowner, and, for me, it was pure aggravation. Can't imagine anyone using a small compressor professionally. So I have to wonder. Is there a reason for the undersized unit?
 

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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What's your budget? You want the BEST?

Truck mechanic, shop, only 110v? What tools do you plan on using? The 1/2" impact isn't so bad, but others can be real air hogs.
 

ddawg16

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Unless you want a pancake compressor for portable work....go 240 (it's 120/240...not 110/220)

Any 'decent' 120 Vac powered compressor is going to pull a good 15-20A.....

But here is the bigger issue.....

One of the 'other' common questions is how much power for the garage. In the real world, the power you need is the total of the actual tools you will be using at one time. For most of us....it's lights, compressor and one other big tool (typically a saw or something like that)...which is going to be 120Vac.....

Now, if you have only 120 going to the garage...moot issue....

But if it's 220...that means half your 120 vac ckts are on one side...and the other half on the other leg.

So....you have a 120Vac compressor....it's running....and you need to run your table saw....and it's on the same leg....oh, and your lights happen to be on the same leg....so assuming you have a 50A 240Vac service to your garage....you could could potentially be pulling all the current on just one leg of your sub....you 'could' trip the breaker.

Now...if you have a 240Vac compressor...if it's running....and lets say it pulls on 10A (a 120v ver would pull 20a)....then you have equal loading on both legs. This leaves you more wiggle room for other things.

On that same 50A 240Vac sub-panel....you now have 40a left on each leg....vs 30 on the leg that is running a 120Vac compressor.

Additionally, going 240Vac gives you a lot more options on compressors....for the most part 15-20a is the limit for 120Vac units....and coming from a guy who had one of those noisy units....it really sucked if you were trying to use it for sand blasting....sand blast for 30 seconds....stop for 1 min....sand blast for 30.....repeat....the b!tch never stopped running unless I went and had a beer...
 

chinaclipper

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May 19, 2013
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I did this same thing two weeks ago.

First, you have to list your needs and priorities, and then BE REALISTIC!:thumbup:
Yes, I'd love to have the 230V made-in-USA 1960's type all iron, kick ****, no-holds barred air compressor that looks like it could flow 60 CFM easy.. But let's be real....

I NEED a compressor that will run:
My air tools, including some small grinders, tire fillers, a blower, a DA sander, a cutoff wheel, maybe an impact wrench or two, some cool little what-nots and my cheapo paint sprayer. There.

I NEED it to work in my garage, which at this time means 120V, a 30 gallon tank would be OK. I wanted an oiled pump, and had to have, I thought, between 5-6 SCFM, with 150 PSI.

I don't need THE BEST, but I'd like one to do the above.

My three choices:
Husky 33-Gal. Portable Electric Air Compressor
Model # F3S33VWD
Kobalt 1.6-HP 30-Gallon 155 PSI Electric Air Compressor
Item #: 221495 | Model #: LLA1683066
Craftsman Professional 27 Gallon Vertical Portable Air Compressor
Sears Item# 00916474000
Well, the Husky went first, oil-less. Haven't heard anything good about the oil-less compressors. Out

The Craftsman looked good, had pretty good numbers I thought for me and what I needed, but I just wasn't sold on it... And I am a Craftsman guy...

So, the Kobalt went home with me... I liked the three year waurentee, I liked the extension for $49... It seemed right

-6-HP 30-Gallon 155 PSI Electric Air Compressor
-Cast iron, V-twin cylinder, oil-lubricated pump features 1-piece cast iron crankcase, thermally stable cast iron cylinder body, aluminum head and machined cast iron valve plate, automotive style ball bearings, and durable stainless steel reed valves
-Heavy-duty induction motor for maximum performance and efficiency
-Fully assembled 30-gallon ASME tank with pre-attached pneumatic wheels, quick-set regulator, tank and working pressure gauges, quick-connect air outlet and on/off switch for ease of use
-155 PSI max pressure, 6.2 SCFM at 40 PSI, 5.3 SCFM at 90 PSI, 1.6 running HP

Hehehe, now, after a week of use, would I like the bigger 60-80 gallon tank and 230v? Of course! Also, this and several of these tanks have really CRAPPY drain placements, so build yer own with some stubs and some ball valves. Trust me here....

It moves around a lot.:shocking: I am gonna get some anchors, and also maybe some plumbing for some permanency. Anyone know how to set up a compressor?? (I'm kidding...):lol:

Long and short, figure out what ya NEED, and go for it. I heard what everyone said about "Buy it best and buy it once" la-la-la 230v la-la-la but it just didn't work for me.... Maybe some day!
 
OP
T

Top-Ten

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Jul 18, 2013
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Thanks all for your replies. I have a trucking company and lease the loading dock area of a large factory warehouse. There is only 110V and 240 will require me to incur cost for electrician and the power main is over 700 feet away. I am hiring an mechanic to come in 2 days a week to work on my trucks and need to provide him air for his tools. So I really need to stay with 110V and need to get the best performing compressor to handle a mechanic's air tools and this compressor will never trip a breaker.
 

Davefr

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Get a 30 gallon, 5 CFM cast iron/oil lubricated compressor. (they're all about the same)

If you do any high CFM/high duty cycle work then go electric. (ex: DA sanding or die grinding)

You should be fine for using low duty cycle impact wrenches/ratchets.
 
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strutaeng

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Dec 12, 2011
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Dallas, TX

All of those are basically the same....

If you really want a higher quality 120V unit, buy a Rolair or Jenny (it's what roofers use). Even then, your mechanic might not be happy with the low CFM.

I would go electric impact. What about a gas-powered air compressor? Like the ones mounted on those diesel service trucks. They are big buck, though...

Good luck
 

bcradio

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Jan 30, 2012
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Location
New Mexico
All of those are basically the same....

If you really want a higher quality 120V unit, buy a Rolair or Jenny (it's what roofers use). Even then, your mechanic might not be happy with the low CFM.

I would go electric impact. What about a gas-powered air compressor? Like the ones mounted on those diesel service trucks. They are big buck, though...

Good luck

He'll be fine with the CFM of the compressor... CFM is of the pump only.

When the tank is full of compressed air it will empty at as high a rate (CFM) as the system bottleneck allows. The bottleneck can be the air hose, fittings, or tools them-self. Ideally you always want your system bottleneck to be the tool. With a 30+ gallon tank, the truck mechanic should be fine using typical 'mechanic' air tools.

Now if you get multiple people using it, then it might be a different story.
 

the1nonlyjl

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Jun 23, 2012
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Westchester County, NY
I have husky 30 gallon ( red tank) previous version to the black that just came out. I used good amount of work on it doing rotating tires, replacing exhaust under my truck with die cutoff and chisel, painting the hood on my father's 97 jeep. No complaints mentioned. As for the black husky compressors I dunno if they r as good as red one. Mine was assembled on dirts of my homeland.
 

WhyMe

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Jan 28, 2013
Messages
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If your intent is long term in your building, I would have power pulled. You can use that power to run containers and reefers and write it off also.
 
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