Cutting Bicycle brake cables - Tool recommendations

[3rdbuttondown]

Title says it all. Please educate me.

These are twisted steel cables, they will destory most side cutters made for copper wire.

 

[balane]

Anything on this page labeled Cable Cutter will make quick work of them.

http://german-hand-tools.com/nws-wire-cutter2.html

 

[Skin]

I don't own them but i'd probably look at knipex mini bolt cutters. They were on clearance at Lowes recently.

 

[CWP1616L]

I have the old version the of Shimano TL-CT10 like is shown in this image:

 

[rustyproject]

Park CN-1 or Felco C7 if you can find. Don't go cheap on your cutters. You get cleaner cuts with the more expensive cutters.

 

[JasonTX]

For almost 20 years, my secret weapon has been Xcelite 134cg hard wire cutters. I have always liked bike-specific tools, like Park and Shimano, but the 134cg has worked awesomely.

 

[neophyte]

Felco C3 or C7 hard cable cutters. The C7 model is what your more likely to find. The C3 are designed to have a smaller jaw opening, but the steel is slightly harder.

The jaw capacity of the C3 cutters is 3mm/0.12".

http://www.felcousa.com/felco/pages/product.page?name=FELCO C3

The capacity of the C7 cutters is 7mm/0.28"

http://www.felcousa.com/felco/pages/product.page?name=FELCO C7

The felco cable cutter design is the one a number of companies have tried to copy. None of the copies I've tried has worked as well as the actuall Felco cutters. The bolt, nut, and spring on the Felco can be purchased separately in case you need to replace the part for some reason. If new ones are too expensive you should be able to find some used ones on Ebay for a lower cost, such as these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Swiss-...823?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5659b4a6a7

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Felco-C7-Ca...176?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c343b2b18

 

[4BT]

Nice pair of sidecutters has worked for me

 

[CWP1616L]

Nice pair of sidecutters has worked for me

Side cutters will first squish the end down, then when the end springs back up, the cable stands untwist - making a frayed end.

 

[lilredex]

Fencing pliers, those side notches shear cleanly. Crimp a short length of 1/8" copper tubing to the cut end to keep it from unravelling....if you cannot find those factory ends.

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Multi-functional/11-in-Fencing-Tool/8303711.p

 

[richfinn]

Park tools. I make clutch and throttle cables regularly you don't want a frayed end trying to pass the cable through a nylon sheath proper tool cuts it fine.

 

[cglasgow]

Side cutters will first squish the end down, then when the end springs back up, the cable stands untwist - making a frayed end.

Wrap the cable in a few tight turns of electrical tape first, then cut in the middle of the tape. Keeps the wire from untwisting. Doesn't work as well as proper cable cutters but usually works well enough.

 

[devoncoolman]

Ive always used a cutoff wheel. Works every time. I used to replace PTO cables all the time and always cut them that way. Same with bike brake cables.

 

[Kent_B]

^ This!

 

[4xdog]

I have the old version the of Shimano TL-CT10 like is shown in this image:

+1 on these. Anything similar would probably work well, but I can personally recommend those Shimano cutters. I've been using them for years.

 

[Kevin54]

Electrical tape or shrink tube around the cable, then use a dremel with a cutoff wheel or if you even have a large cutoff wheel.

 

[kossuth]

When I've made fuel lines and such for my truck (stainless braid wrapped hose) I've always wrapped it with fiberglass reinforced tape. The I cut it off with a Dremel tool. I know it's not cable, but you would have the same problem with the braided fuel line where it would want to come unraveled. Fiberglass tape trick worked everytime.

 

[acer66]

Never was happy with my Park Tool cutter, not sure which model but I bought in the mid 90's.

 

[dgeesaman]

If you're working on road or mountain bikes, the Park cutters are reasonably priced and very effective. I also use a dremel cutting wheel to trim off the extra bit of housing and square up the end of the cable housing. If it's a $60 kids bike you might be fine with a cheaper tool but I do 11speed road bikes and need very crisp braking and very short throw shifts.

 

[trout]

I got the Park CN-10. Works great. Dremel w/ a cut off wheel is an option but if you're dealing with a cable that has an inner coating it will melt using any type of power tool.

 

[dgeesaman]

The inner coating will melt when dressing with a dremel, so go slow and it's very simple to reopen the line with the tip of a scribe/pick.

Also consider finishing the end of the cable with heat shrink tubing.

 

[rlitman]

Anything on this page labeled Cable Cutter will make quick work of them.

http://german-hand-tools.com/nws-wire-cutter2.html

No, none of those are appropriate. Those are cable cutters, but are not made for steel cable. The edge angle is far too shallow, and steel cable would destroy them.

As said above, you need cable cutters made for steel cable. They will have a very steep cutting angle, and bypass blades that compress the cable as they cut. I have an old Suntour pair (not so great), and a Felco clone (this one is fantastic). I've used the Park. They're pretty good too.

Brake cable is easy to cut. Shimano derailleur housing cable with the parallel wires is what puts your cable cutter to the test.

 

[kyrbz]

I make most of my own motorcycle and microcar cables and use Knipex wire rope cutters.

http://chadstoolbox.com/9561190-Knipex-Wire-Rope-Cutter.aspx

They also make a smaller less expensive pair for cutting smaller Bowden cables.

http://chadstoolbox.com/9561150knipexwireropecuttersforsoftwireandsmallbowdencables.aspx

I like the large wire rope cutters because they also do a good job of cutting the outer sheath of cables.

You'll want to be sure to "tin" the end of the cable after you've cut it so that it doesn't come unraveled. I have a post on my blog that shows how to make a super cheap soldering pot for soldering and tinning cables.

http://bzisettas.blogspot.com/2013/01/soldering-control-cables.html

-BZ

 

[PCO6]

kyrbz - Great idea re the soldering pot. Nice way of finishing off the cables too. I have a similar pot for glue sticks and never thought of doing that for soldering.

 

[kyrbz]

kyrbz - Great idea re the soldering pot. Nice way of finishing off the cables too. I have a similar pot for glue sticks and never thought of doing that for soldering.

Thanks, I never thought of doing the same thing with glue sticks. That idea might come in handy some day.

-BZ

 

[Brownsfan]

I used the knipex mini bolt cutters for braided steel saftey wire used in projector installs. Very similar minus the black plastic coating

 

[SMKS]

You don't need to tin bike cables after you cut them. You just crimp on a cable end with a pair of pliers. Quicker and easier.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_174982_-1___202419

I usually buy them for cheap on ebay or get them for free with my cables.

 

[4BT]

Side cutters will first squish the end down, then when the end springs back up, the cable stands untwist - making a frayed end.

I've done it that way for years and never had a frayed end

 

[PCO6]

Thanks, I never thought of doing the same thing with glue sticks. That idea might come in handy some day.

-BZ

Even trade.

 

[reptilezs]

I make most of my own motorcycle and microcar cables and use Knipex wire rope cutters.

http://chadstoolbox.com/9561190-Knipex-Wire-Rope-Cutter.aspx

They also make a smaller less expensive pair for cutting smaller Bowden cables.

http://chadstoolbox.com/9561150knipexwireropecuttersforsoftwireandsmallbowdencables.aspx

I like the large wire rope cutters because they also do a good job of cutting the outer sheath of cables.

You'll want to be sure to "tin" the end of the cable after you've cut it so that it doesn't come unraveled. I have a post on my blog that shows how to make a super cheap soldering pot for soldering and tinning cables.

http://bzisettas.blogspot.com/2013/01/soldering-control-cables.html

-BZ

i have the same knipex with comfort grips. been using them professionally for over 2 years. they work great. the felco c7 is another good choice. the park cn10 is junk, they do not stay sharp. mine got dull in 3 months. for an economical one try the jagwire/sram cable cutter. soldering wires takes too much time in a shop

 

[phill u7c]

This is going to sound a bit left field, but I have always used a tig welder. Set quite high it will cut the wire and fuse the strands togeather so it can be ground to a point if required.
Other then that SnapOn do some great linesman plyers

 

[Outlawmws]

Wrap the cable in a few tight turns of electrical tape first, then cut in the middle of the tape. Keeps the wire from untwisting. Doesn't work as well as proper cable cutters but usually works well enough.

on This ^^^

and do it with any type of cutters when cutting any twisted/braided lines.

 

[Greatbear]

I usually tin the area where I am going to cut with a bit of solder, then use cable cutters to snip the cable. Cuts clean and will not unravel. This doesn't work for stainless cables, however.

 

[4xdog]

You don't need to tin bike cables after you cut them. You just crimp on a cable end with a pair of pliers. Quicker and easier.

True, you don't need to tin them. But it makes a cleaner install and makes stripping down and putting back easier. I've done it for thirty years and I'm happy with the results.

 

[CWP1616L]

The Shimano cutters I have work flawlessly.

They cut the cable square and don't unravel it.

 

[scrappy600]

Standard set of snips on the cable, you should have it through the outer at that stage anyway and you should also be crimping on a cable cap so fraying shouldn't be an issue once that's on anyway. Standard set of snips also for the outer and give it a tiny nip after to open it back up again after because the snips squashes it a bit. I race downhill and enduro both of which give hell to components and I've never ever had a problem with it! You guys are making it far more complicated than it needs to be!

 

[KinzeMech]

The solder pot is a neat idea. You could also tin them prior to cutting (although probably not with a pot), and then both sides of the cut are protected from unravel.


It probably is not a technique that translates to smaller cables like this, but when we cut larger steel cables at work, we do it with a welder. Both ends of the cut are instantly sealed against unravel that way, much the same as cutting plastic string with a match.

 

[Lightfoot]

Ive always used a cutoff wheel. Works every time. I used to replace PTO cables all the time and always cut them that way. Same with bike brake cables.

Yep!
a little solder on the spot before you cut so it doesn't fray and cut it. I used to own a picture framing business and we used the stranded cable for the hanging wire for bigger frames. Cutoff wheel works great, Just a small one on a dremel is all we used.

 

[sr71]

+1 on Felco.... had a pair for 15 years ....work as advertised

 

[pepi]

Wrap the area with tape before you cut.