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The VISES of Garage Journal

Mark in Indiana

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Aug 11, 2010
Messages
3,057
Location
Southern Indiana
Here's my workhorse. My mighty 10" Columbian 10 RD M2. I probably use this vise more than all the rest combined. I've had it close to 30 years, bought it used for $25 and didn't realize what a gem it was until I put it to use. I use it mostly for woodworking, but have been known to press u-joints with it. It's currently aiding in the restoration of my newly-acquired Parker 63 1/2. Here, it's holding the jaws in the proper position for Kroil to work its magic on the jaw screws.

I have the same opinion about my Morgan 10A woodworking vise. I like that it's under the bench, it is large but can hold things gently, and it's a great addition for times that my other vises are *******. Unfortunately, it seems that woodworking vises don't bring the high dollar like machinists vises (except Emmerets). But that's OK
 
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MOPARHOUND!

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Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
697
Location
Kansas City
Cool Rock Island no. 136 autolocking vise for sale on Craigslist in New Hampshire:
http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/3788322303.html

The base swivels until you clamp on something. The pressure of the clamping action locks the swivel (assuming that part still works). More info starting with post #5:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105886

Pics attached for when the ad goes away

Scored this Rock Island No. 23 at a local auction. Can't find info on it, other than b100's post on the mechanism operation. Strange, weight of the vise is what holds it to the base when nothings clamped in it. Has 2 pins/(hex screws??) holding the swivel jaw in place. Swivel jaw has the lower most ears broke off. Jaws measure 5".
 

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EDGAR

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Aug 21, 2010
Messages
437
Is the Rock Island 23 broken? See arrow in the picture below.
 

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MOPARHOUND!

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Oct 1, 2008
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Kansas City
The red arrow is pointing to one of the broken off "ears" I was referring to. Need to work on free-ing the swivel jaw and its fasteners, then see how much the missing "ears" affect the vise's operation.
 

Fyrme

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Nov 28, 2012
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2,231
Location
Green country, Oklahoma
More pics as requested. It is a 4" jaw. Weighs 70lbs No 142. I already have my big 4 1/2" Wilton Bullet, and this one will be awkward to mount so I will likely resotre it and sell it. IF I preheat the crack, you think I can weld it with a MIG using solid wire?
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t100

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Sep 3, 2009
Messages
6,101
IF I preheat the crack, you think I can weld it with a MIG using solid wire?

do you know anybody with a Tig?

here is the trick, no pre-heat, no post-heat required. go to your LWS buy a few sticks of 1/8" dia. 99 Nickle arc welding rods, know the flux off with a hammer, clean them well with Scotch Brite. clean the hell up of the crack on the vise with die grinder and carbide burr. weld it just like steel.
 

Fyrme

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Location
Green country, Oklahoma
do you know anybody with a Tig?

here is the trick, no pre-heat, no post-heat required. go to your LWS buy a few sticks of 1/8" dia. 99 Nickle arc welding rods, know the flux off with a hammer, clean them well with Scotch Brite. clean the hell up of the crack on the vise with die grinder and carbide burr. weld it just like steel.

Yes but i've use the hell out of him lately and he is very slow to get the work done. Was hoping to do it my self. I don't understand what you mean by welding it with Nickle arc. Using a stick welder? without Flux?
 

wrenchguy

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Sep 22, 2011
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NW Indiana
Yes but i've use the hell out of him lately and he is very slow to get the work done. Was hoping to do it my self. I don't understand what you mean by welding it with Nickle arc. Using a stick welder? without Flux?

tig welding is gas welding, ur using the cleaned rod as filler rod in ur left hand.
 

wrenchguy

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Sep 22, 2011
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NW Indiana
if u can stick weld u can tig weld. its very easy, its easy to see and work the puddle. takes a little practice using ur left hand to add fill to advance the puddle. i'd like to know what settings and consumable sizes t100 might use for the mass of that slide. i got one to weld too, with my small miller econotig.
 

Fyrme

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if u can stick weld u can tig weld. its very easy, its easy to see and work the puddle. takes a little practice using ur left hand to add fill to advance the puddle. i'd like to know what settings and consumable sizes t100 might use for the mass of that slide. i got one to weld too, with my small miller econotig.

LOL. I don't think you understand, I don't own a TIG or a Stick, Only MIG. I have a friend that has done TIG for me, but I've used him a lot lately and he is very slow to get stuff done for me. So that is why I asked about MIG.
 

BFBOB

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Sep 20, 2011
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Re: Well anyway got started on my Ridgid 80sn

Why mess around with halfway? Just have it chromed. You know you want to!
 

oldldh

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May 22, 2012
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Location
Fairhope, AL
WOW!!!

That's too nice to use, now....:sad::sad:

What were you thinking???....Garage art????:eyecrazy::eyecrazy:

How on earth did you achieve that finish, and how long did it take???:scared:

Now I'll have to polish my "Colorado Vise Hoard" Starrett 925 to be able to hold my head up on this thread...:bowdown:

"BFBOB" is right...as us old hot rodders say, "If it don't go---CHROME IT!!!!":3gears:
 
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wrenchguy

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Sep 22, 2011
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NW Indiana
Why mess around with halfway? Just have it chromed. You know you want to!

No not really, just my personal touch.

WOW!!!

That's too nice to use, now....:sad::sad:

What were you thinking???....Garage art????:eyecrazy::eyecrazy:

How on earth did you achieve that finish, and how long did it take???:scared:

Now I'll have to polish my "Colorado Vise Hoard" Starrett 925 to be able to hold my head up on this thread...:bowdown:

"BFBOB" is right...as us old hot rodders say, "If it don't go---CHROME IT!!!!":3gears:


I'll use it 4 sure, even as i'm working on it. Have about 6 hours in fairing, sanding and polishing using files, 240,400 grit da paper. Nothing more being polished other than what u see except handle, leadscrew end and steel acorn nuts. Got a hour in the stainless tool and parts tray under it. I moved the vise from the center of the stand to the edge enough to vertical clamp stuff without hitting stand. Put casters under it, no fork lift here. This thing is on the modern new style and kinda boring. I'm hoping 4 some skull, flames and pinstripping engraving the spice it up. I'm having a hard time finding a art engraver about engraving cast iron.
thanks 4 comments.
Before,
 
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t100

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Sep 3, 2009
Messages
6,101
if u can stick weld u can tig weld. its very easy, its easy to see and work the puddle. takes a little practice using ur left hand to add fill to advance the puddle. i'd like to know what settings and consumable sizes t100 might use for the mass of that slide. i got one to weld too, with my small miller econotig.

you weld the cast iron just like steel, 120amp DC with 100% Argon shielding gas is plenty. the key is clean the rod and work piece very very well. cast iron is dirty and porous, the better you clean it, the easier to weld.

the 99-Nickel rod is a stick welding rod, it contains 99% Nickel(hint the name). you knock the flux off to weld with Tig machine. it joints with cast iron very well and have similar thermo expansion/contraction rate, thus less prone to crack after welding. it has the similar yield strength of 30ksi., also machinable, you can sand it, grind it even mill it.

best part is no pre or post welding heat treatment needed.

your Econotig will be just fine, even the duty cycle is low, you don't need to finish it up in 1 shot.
 
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billp603

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Dec 31, 2011
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222
Location
NH
these sold 4 less than 500.00, 464.00 tobe exact. good deal 4 someone.



$27.30 each for Wiltons & Colombians that look lightly used, awesome deal for someone! I'd keep the best two and probably get $800 to $1000 for the other 15 on CL in a weekend or two. But I was too far away :rolleyes2
 

Duct Tape Man

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Jul 13, 2013
Messages
994
Location
Shenandoah Valley, VA
This is the vise I picked up in NJ a while back. Reed 406, swivel base and swivel jaw. The base was toast, cracked in a couple places and missing pieces of the base when I got it.

Removed the base, degreased the wrong shebang, quick repaint and she's ready for the next 100 years. Not my best resto, but I only had a couple hours to do it in, and the way it was beat on, it won't ever be a museum piece. So, she'll be a working girl for another spell.
 

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wrenchguy

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Sep 22, 2011
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NW Indiana
nice job troy, will u use the center swivel bolt hole when mounting it to the bench, or just the 2 outside swivel lock holes?

i could use the 406 main swivel bolt u put on the parts posting. what kinda hand tools r u interested in? mechanical, woodworking?
 

ShadowRuleZ

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Feb 27, 2011
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Detroit
Anyone want to guess the sizes on these? I'm not sure why one is 2x the other right now, they look about the same to me (I figured they were 3" or 3.5").
 

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Chris98006

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Mar 14, 2013
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60
Location
Bellevue WA
Re: Well anyway got started on my Ridgid 80sn

Gonna customize it. Anyone here do art hand engraving?



Keep us posted on this! Also it would be helpful to know hours invested. I've dived into some projects, thinking it would take way less time, than the actually did. I've got a 5" Paramo I would like to do this on.

Chris
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,269
Location
The Badlands
Unrestored Wilton 500. Chicago Ill. 1950. I'd restore it, but I like using it.

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Nothing wrong with having a worker bee in the mix. Nothing wrong with cleaning it up and continuing to use it either. I had mine all gussied up 25-30 years ago, paint is well worn (to say the least) and it had a few more scuffs in the metal, but it's still working fine... :beer:
 

Mark in Indiana

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Aug 11, 2010
Messages
3,057
Location
Southern Indiana
Nothing wrong with having a worker bee in the mix. Nothing wrong with cleaning it up and continuing to use it either. I had mine all gussied up 25-30 years ago, paint is well worn (to say the least) and it had a few more scuffs in the metal, but it's still working fine... :beer:

I've often thought of leaving a vise alone and using it as a work horse. However, I can't stand to keep a vise from its former glory. If I beat them up, I just give them a good cleaning and touch up.
 

Mark in Indiana

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Aug 11, 2010
Messages
3,057
Location
Southern Indiana
Here's one for the Wilton Experts:
I'm getting ready for the restoration of my Wilton 840 and mount it on my Kennedy cabinet. I noticed that on the base it had 2 holes that were wider on one end than the other. My question is, should the wider mount holes go toward the rear (moving jaw) or toward the nose of the vise?

Please see pictures.

Thanks in advance.
 

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andywander

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Mar 24, 2012
Messages
359
Mount it however it fits best. You want to mount it on a corner, and such that long work can overhang the edge of the cabinet when the vise is pointing to the front, and also to the side.
 
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