fabricated tools that make your life better!

[mattygee]

Here is a sliding table for my Jet 10" cabinet saw....I cribbed the basic idea off one I saw on Youtube and I've been tinkering with it for a few months when I get the odd moment to do so.. There was a lot more work involved than it looks. It has basically one purpose; to crosscut cabinet sized plywood pieces to square. It can cut up to 29" wide material. Probably have $200 in it. It is constructed of T slot rails and cnc linear bearings. I made the knob spacers on my Atlas 10" lathe.

Ugh...The camera really does add 10lbs of dust!

 

[pepi]

What's so hard just twist the wires together and solder away, jigging it all up just waste time... Another tip throw away the soldering gun another waste of time waiting for it to heat up for every joint. Get a pencil type stays hot ready to get with it.

 

[rdsk8ter]

What's so hard just twist the wires together and solder away, jigging it all up just waste time... Another tip throw away the soldering gun another waste of time waiting for it to heat up for every joint. Get a pencil type stays hot ready to get with it.

I guess to each there own, but I love it. Now would I use it on every wire no but did it make my life better for the 30 wires or so in that bundle. I would say yes was it worth the 15 or 20 minutes I spent on it.

 

[pepi]

I guess to each there own, but I love it. Now would I use it on every wire no but did it make my life better for the 30 wires or so in that bundle. I would say yes was it worth the 15 or 20 minutes I spent on it.

True enough I agree whatever floats ones boat, the design is fine, but complicates a relatively simple process. But that is an American by nature, I fly under the flag of KSS, rock on.

 

[rdsk8ter]

True enough I agree whatever floats ones boat, the design is fine, but complicates a relatively simple process. But that is an American by nature, I fly under the flag of KSS, rock on.

true story there for sure. |I doubt I will use it again but the one time i needed it it was amazing.

 

[pepi]

true story there for sure. |I doubt I will use it again but the one time i needed it it was amazing.

OH so a hair pulling project, those are the best ones to solve. Building the tool makes it even more memorable. Was for sure the RIGHT tool for that moment and purposely designed, Tim the tool man is proud LOL !

Was this automotive related, I do not remember you saying what it was you were working on?

 

[Kevin54]

Myself....I LIKE IT. And I could have used something like that many of times. I do have to agree with using a soldering station though that has a pencil iron.

 

[Hal]

ha ha nice, is that a pool noodle? lol I've done the "try to get board up there and jam it in place with a couple 2x4's" as well.....and the "two guys on painters scaffolding holding it with their heads as they attempt to work a screw gun" method....

My two six ft plus nephews, standing on mud buckets, holding a twelve foot panel to the ceiling, after working in the sugarbush all day, and drinking supper. "@#$%^, somebody get a !$% screw in it!!!!"

 

[BFBOB]

Here's one that's pretty trivial compared to most here, but I find it useful. I sometimes need to cut down cardboard boxes to fit whatever I'm shipping, and cardboard doesn't like to bend straight across the corrugations, and if you try to use a straitedge to force it, it'll often tear on the outside. The factory-made bends are compressed on the inside, so I came up with a way to do that myself. Just run the roller along a straightedge and the cardboard will bend nice and clean.
I whipped this up in about 5 minutes from the scrap bin. The u-bracket is from a garage door pulley, the handle is a cut off piece of angle bracket, and the roller is two shock absorber washers. Works.

 

[LG63]

Here's one that's pretty trivial compared to most here, but I find it useful. I sometimes need to cut down cardboard boxes to fit whatever I'm shipping, and cardboard doesn't like to bend straight across the corrugations, and if you try to use a straitedge to force it, it'll often tear on the outside. The factory-made bends are compressed on the inside, so I came up with a way to do that myself. Just run the roller along a straightedge and the cardboard will bend nice and clean.
I whipped this up in about 5 minutes from the scrap bin. The u-bracket is from a garage door pulley, the handle is a cut off piece of angle bracket, and the roller is two shock absorber washers. Works.

Great idea. I love the ones that don't require a plasma cutter, tig, lathe, mill...........

 

[BFBOB]

Great idea. I love the ones that don't require a plasma cutter, tig, lathe, mill...........

Heck, I think I actually used dogbone on this (don't tell anyone).

 

[Chris Stapley]

I will start off by stating my photography skills **** and that my cellphone doesn't help out matters any either. I needed a stand this past weekend for my vice so I started thinking it would sure be nice if it were versatile enough to use for other applications in my small,small 22'x22' fab shop. I started with a good used brake drum from an Oshkosh Firetruck ( good to be in this business from time to time) and an old rope stand my father had made a truck load of in the fifties for show cars made form a brake drum off a 1956 Dodge and a crankshaft of some unknown make or model car..I added a Reese hitch receiver to the top and for the 8" vice used a Reese style Pintle hitch that was taking up space under the bench. I have also added a 2" plug to the bottom of my bead roller and will also make a nice shot bag for metal fab to fit this as well. I can see multiple items in the shop eventually making their way here ..

 

[JonnFX]

 

[the gypsy]

JonnFX, what is that drill used for? Are you grinding some kind of retaining rings?

 

[Aquaticbob]

Since I figured that I needed to roll my front fenders, I was going to buy an Eastwood fender roller, but when I saw one, I thought that I might be able to make a better one.

I'm sure that I spent a lot more time and money then what I could have just purchased one for, but that is how I roll (pun partially intended, LOL).

Some of the features that I thought that I could improve on or add are the following:

* Larger rolling wheel that helps bend the metal more gradually.
* More robust design to minimize flex, for a more controlled movement.
* Counterweight to keep the tool upright, so the operator does not have to hold it doing adjustments. Also, this keeps the tool from swinging into the brake caliper (if left attached).
* Adjustable main body extension using a lead screw, for fine adjustments during the procedure. This also helps avoid having to use two hands to adjust length.
* Ergonomic handle at roller for control and leverage.
* Fixed heat gun (to soften paint), with foot switch for control. It is attached with a magnetic mount, if it is needed to be operated manually.
* I was going to mount the IR heat gun to the roller to monitor the temperature, but reading it upside down without a mirror was an annoyance. LOL

I would love to get more information on the fender roller you built! Looks like quite the design, and I've got a friend needing to roll some fenders.

 

[senlow]

JonnFX, what is that drill used for? Are you grinding some kind of retaining rings?

The tool is for cutting piston rings. Usually ring filers are hand cranked.

Rings must have the proper gap to perform their best. If the gap is too loose, you get excessive pressure leakage. Why have a gap at all, you may ask. Well, stuff expands as it gets hot. So, a ring with no gap will expand when the engine warms up. This creates interference and will seize the engine.

 

[JonnFX]

JonnFX, what is that drill used for? Are you grinding some kind of retaining rings?

The tool is for cutting piston rings. Usually ring filers are hand cranked.

Rings must have the proper gap to perform their best. If the gap is too loose, you get excessive pressure leakage. Why have a gap at all, you may ask. Well, stuff expands as it gets hot. So, a ring with no gap will expand when the engine warms up. This creates interference and will seize the engine.

Gypsy, looks like senlow answered your question, well. They do make powered ring filers and are pretty cool as you can set the amount to be taken off, but they are rather expensive. As mentioned, mine uses a crank handle, but it is nice to hold the ring with two hands. I bought the cheapest drill from Harbor Freight and added a foot switch. It worked really well.

The other picture is a tool I made to measure the stretch of ARP rod bolts. They do make them, but sort of expensive.

I would love to get more information on the fender roller you built! Looks like quite the design, and I've got a friend needing to roll some fenders.

Aquaticbob, as I mentioned, I pretty much copied the geometry from pictures of other rollers and then just modified a bit from there. Is there any specific thing you would like to know? I'll try to answer, as best I can. Cheers.

 

[the gypsy]

Good work guys, keep it up.

 

[E.rodz]

Here is a sliding table for my Jet 10" cabinet saw....I cribbed the basic idea off one I saw on Youtube and I've been tinkering with it for a few months when I get the odd moment to do so.. There was a lot more work involved than it looks. It has basically one purpose; to crosscut cabinet sized plywood pieces to square. It can cut up to 29" wide material. Probably have $200 in it. It is constructed of T slot rails and cnc linear bearings. I made the knob spacers on my Atlas 10" lathe.

Ugh...The camera really does add 10lbs of dust!

this looks like a very handy tool here!

 

[E.rodz]

here is another one that I made just a couple of ducts to direct the dust into the dust collector tube.

 

[Richard D]

added a foot switch.

Where did you source the foot switch?

 

[InPrimer]

HF has foot switches for about $14
I use my a lot on my drill press, It's handy because it frees up the right hand. the BEST benefit, in case of "trouble" just step away

 

[E.rodz]

finally had a chance to finish up the rear end stand finished it up with some trays to put some parts in,added some leveling feet to lock it down and finally some paint to keep the bare metal looking good.

 

[sz0k30]

For you car guys, here is a tool I made similar to "Percy's Wheelrite" tool. It is used for checking wheel/tire sizes and clearances. Percy's is available from places like Summit & Jegs and is plastic. Mine is steel and has all the adjustability.

 

[Kevin54]

Eric....why don't you halfass something sometime, so we members don't feel so inadequate

 

[-Brent-]

I'm stealing a couple ideas, for sure. Nice work, fellas.

 

[signcrafter]

Eric....why don't you halfass something sometime, so we members don't feel so inadequate

No sheet! That axle stand is nicer than anything in my garage including my car!

 

[pacecar]

E.rodz, that's pretty nice work!!

Do the wheel dollies integrate into the axle stand?

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

HF has foot switches for about $14
I use my a lot on my drill press, It's handy because it frees up the right hand. the BEST benefit, in case of "trouble" just step away

I keep wanting to find a good reason to get these foot switches. A drill press might be a very good justification indeed.

 

[22george]

sk0k30 l like that tire clearance checker

 

[Hot Chop shop]

So I needed to sand about 110ish wood blocks for a project and I didn't have a large belt/bench sander to use. So I fabricated a mount for mine. It worked so great that I'm thinking about contacting SWAG off road to see if they are interested in my design.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[longlivepunk]

^ Bahahaha!! Nice.

 

[sberry]

Wiper arm puller.

 

[E.rodz]

For you car guys, here is a tool I made similar to "Percy's Wheelrite" tool. It is used for checking wheel/tire sizes and clearances. Percy's is available from places like Summit & Jegs and is plastic. Mine is steel and has all the adjustability.

nice tool looks like something you can use over and over for every project.




Eric....why don't you halfass something sometime, so we members don't feel so inadequate [/QUOTE] LOL. sorry I have some issues with this I will try to work on this one!

No sheet! That axle stand is nicer than anything in my garage including my car!

Trying to make something I can use the rest of my life not just once.

E.rodz, that's pretty nice work!! Thanks hope to make a transmission jig soon as well.

Do the wheel dollies integrate into the axle stand?

that was the idea but I thought of that a little to late and should of used bigger casters to support the weight of the car too. dhhhooooo!!!

So I needed to sand about 110ish wood blocks for a project and I didn't have a large belt/bench sander to use. So I fabricated a mount for mine. It worked so great that I'm thinking about contacting SWAG off road to see if they are interested in my design.

nice work thanks for posting!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Wiper arm puller.

nice tool to have in your tool box!

 

[NASTYZEN]

finally had a chance to finish up the rear end stand finished it up with some trays to put some parts in,added some leveling feet to lock it down and finally some paint to keep the bare metal looking good.

That is bad ***! Too bad about the castors, guess you can mod it one day.
btw. all the stuff you post is top notch rodz.

 

[E.rodz]

That is bad ***! Too bad about the castors, guess you can mod it one day.
btw. all the stuff you post is top notch rodz.

Thanks for the interest I am inspired by your work as well! I do hope you stop sending your cold weather down here though, I am sick of it being below zero here.

 

[aka Larry]

I worked on changing the rear brakes on my Mustang last night getting ready for the first track event of 2014 and remembered what a PITA these are even with the proper piston retracting tool. The problem is it is difficult to hold the caliper in one hand and torque the piston back into the bore.

Well I decided to do something about it and built a little tool to hold the caliper in place. I used a piece of 1/8"x3/4" flat bar, a M6-1.0 homemade wingbolt, and welded a matching nut to the flat bar.

To use it simply reattach the caliper to the OE bracket at one end, pivot the caliper, then bolt the tool in place. Works like a champ and the cost was zero.


Here are a few pics :

[/quote]

 

[stinkity stoink]

Good idea on the caliper. Those things are a pain sometimes pushing back.

 

[larry4406]

I use a large c-clamp vise grip to compress calipers back.

 

[aka Larry]

I use a large c-clamp vise grip to compress calipers back.

Won't work on an S197 Mustang. Due to the e-brake function the piston has to be rotated and pushed back in at the same time.