Problem with Craftsman Garage Door Opener

[Dick in Wisconsin]

New problem ... see both of thread. Thanks!
========================
Opener is about 15 years old. 1/2hp, chain drive. Has worked fine until now.

Seems like the motor has ran the door all way down, really tight. I've released the trolley from the door, but the cable is as tight as a guitar string while the chain hangs loose.

I push the button and the motor hums for 2 seconds, doesn't move, and the humming quits.

I've tried adjusting the limit screws and nothing changes. Both of the safety lights things along the floor are green.

Seems like the motor is jammed up against something.

Any ideas?

 

[T_Hed]

Did you check the your tension spring for any breaks ?

 

[arrowhead]

If you released the trolley (door opens freely) and the cable is still tight and the chain is loose, it must be a track/cable/chain issue. Guess it could be the notorious plastic gears inside the opener. I just fixed mine, under $30 for the repair kit.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

If you released the trolley (door opens freely) and the cable is still tight and the chain is loose, it must be a track/cable/chain issue. Guess it could be the notorious plastic gears inside the opener. I just fixed mine, under $30 for the repair kit.

Thanks! I'll take it down and take it apart.

 

[machine_punk]

Oddly enough, I just had that EXACT same problem...and I didn't have a lot of time to deal with it, so I just went and got another opener on sale, took out the old one, and put the new one in. It was abotu $100.

Kev

 

[50fordbob]

I fought this problem and the will go up but will not go down without reversing back up if the temp is below 40 deg problem for 4 years. Just give it up now and save your blood pressure. Buy a new one and move on. Bob

 

[AndyL]

Well... If the cables tight and chain's loose - she's jammed on the forward stop.

Now the real question is why - you'll probably want to pop the head open and check the condition of the lower limit switch.

So... Basically you've got to release the tension - Generally undo the 1/2" nuts on the tensioner - and possibly remove that stop bolt she's jammed up on.

Then take the 8 screws out to open up the head - the first thing you see from below will probably be the threaded plastic limit assembly - take a quick look at orientation, see that the center contact is touching the bottom limit. Then try to run the opener (use a remote) verify the limit is traveling fore/aft.

Then go back to your owners manual and adjust how the J-arm is setup, See the part about dropping the screwdriver through the rail - pushing trolley against - then installing chain - that sets your correct distance back from the door. Adjust bolt holes so the J-arm connects. Tighten up the chain and fine tune limits.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I released the chain and without the chain attached ... the opener runs fine. The two limit switches obviously stop it.

Hooked the chain back up. Immediately jumped off the sprocket on the head. Reread the instructions. Decided the chain drooped down too far. Tightened it some ... to like the instructions said about 1/2 inch above the T channel.

Jumped off again!

I looked more closely at the sprocket. Its loose, bearing must be shot; unless the shaft is plastic or nylon and that is worn. But it looks like the shaft is steel. I'll look in the main and see if there is a replacement bearing listed.

I know ... I know ... I'm wasting time trying to fix a what ... $100 open? But it just burns me to toss something that just needs a bearing.

 

[Manganos]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00283OGES/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Thanks Manganos!

That part number matches the number in the manual!

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Put the new parts in. The old nylon gears were chewed up. The bearing was shot.

Put is all back together. Without the garage door attached to the trolley ... i.e. no weight on the system, the trolley travels only about 8" or so and reverses to its original position. The safety lights are hooked up and both green. I'm not up against the reversing mechanism inside the opener.

Anyone have an idea of what is wrong?

 

[Manganos]

Is this part seated correctly??

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41lBzCUtRdL.jpg

Sounds like your RPM sensor is not working...

I wish I knew more about garage doors but it sounds like this is the problem.

 

[drewzfoster]

I literally just installed this kit last weekend on my 15 year old 1/2 HP Liftmaster! Call local door places...several had the kits in stock locally.

 

[Outdoor9]

Put the new parts in. The old nylon gears were chewed up. The bearing was shot.

Put is all back together. Without the garage door attached to the trolley ... i.e. no weight on the system, the trolley travels only about 8" or so and reverses to its original position. The safety lights are hooked up and both green. I'm not up against the reversing mechanism inside the opener.

Anyone have an idea of what is wrong?

Check to make sure you plugged everything back in place. Travels 8 inch and back usually in the rpm sensor. Make sure the black cap is on tight

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Check to make sure you plugged everything back in place. Travels 8 inch and back usually in the rpm sensor. Make sure the black cap is on tight

The black cap on the end of the shaft that must be the key to speed sensor?

Thanks!

 

[Outdoor9]

The black cap on the end of the shaft that must be the key to speed sensor?

Thanks!

Yea, small chance that fixes it. Circuit board could be bad. Does the led light flash 5 times?

 

[Manganos]

Yes it needs to be in the "slot". If it isn't it will travel a little bit and go back. It is not activating the rpm sensor. Adjust it and make sure it is seated correctly.

 

[Slickster76]

I fixed mine about a week ago. It's a 1/2 hp Craftsman. The gear was worn out. Once I replaced it, I put it back together and ran the door. Didn't move all that much. I somehow put it back together with the door open and close limit switches moved too far to one side. Once I adjusted them both to the proper position, it ran fine.
You can buy the parts as a kit or for a few bucks more, it'll come in as an assembly. I ordered mine as an assembly to speed the installation up. Working in a non heated garage when it's 20 degrees out *****.

 

[Manganos]

The limit switches can also be the problem but my uneducated guess is the RPM sensor.

 

[pepi]

I released the chain and without the chain attached ... the opener runs fine. The two limit switches obviously stop it.

Hooked the chain back up. Immediately jumped off the sprocket on the head. Reread the instructions. Decided the chain drooped down too far. Tightened it some ... to like the instructions said about 1/2 inch above the T channel.

Jumped off again!

I looked more closely at the sprocket. Its loose, bearing must be shot; unless the shaft is plastic or nylon and that is worn. But it looks like the shaft is steel. I'll look in the main and see if there is a replacement bearing listed.

I know ... I know ... I'm wasting time trying to fix a what ... $100 open? But it just burns me to toss something that just needs a bearing.

I also prefer to do repairs on stuff, separates the real men from the shoppers

100 for new, 25 for parts NO brainer, 75 for Santa

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Yea, small chance that fixes it. Circuit board could be bad. Does the led light flash 5 times?

What is the significance of the LED light flashing 5 times? Thanks!

 

[LB-1911]

What is the significance of the LED light flashing 5 times? Thanks!

Motor overheated/Possible RPM sensor failure -- unplug to reset
http://www.bearcatco.com/helpgifs/chamberlain_troubleshooting.html

 

[Outdoor9]

What is the significance of the LED light flashing 5 times? Thanks!

Circuit Board is bad

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Circuit Board is bad

The light doesn't flash 5x. Does that mean the circuit board is good or bad?

When should the light be flashing 5x?

Can the circuit board be replaced? or is the solution a new opener?

Thanks for the quick response!

****

 

[steel 35]

I had mine quit about 8 years ago and couldn't make it to work that day
eventually found two small contacts and one was broke soldered it back together after finding the missing piece and its worked every since, best of luck.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Motor overheated/Possible RPM sensor failure -- unplug to reset
http://www.bearcatco.com/helpgifs/chamberlain_troubleshooting.html

Thanks Mr. LB!

This is me:

10. Door starts to open/close only travels 8" then reverses/stops: • Forces for up/down set to low. Pull emergency release and check manual door operation. If no obstruction, increase force and retest.
• Interupter cup not properly seated on motor shaft. Visually inspect the interupter cup to insure proper installation. Repair or replace if necessary.
• Defective RPM board. Replace and test.
• Defective logic board. Replace and test.

I don't have the door hooked to the trolley, but that shouldn't impact this.

I will take the thing down for what I think is 5th time, unhook the motor assembly from the track for what I think is the 4th time, and reset the Interrupter cup. It might not be seated down far enough.

I can buy the circuit board on eBay used for $39 (can't find any new ones):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_194wt_992

Does anyone know if both the RPM board and the logic board are on the circuit board?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[Outdoor9]

The light doesn't flash 5x. Does that mean the circuit board is good or bad?

When should the light be flashing 5x?

Can the circuit board be replaced? or is the solution a new opener?

Thanks for the quick response!

****

The light flashes 5 times when the board is bad.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

The light flashes 5 times when the board is bad.

So far that hasn't happened. I'll report back.

 

[upndown]

The RPM sensor and Logic Board are two separate components!

First check to make sure the RPM sensor is connected properly(sensor is small board with 4 or 5 prongs and a black u-shaped piece of plastic) Make sure its seated properly on its holder and plug is on correctly, then make sure interupter cup is seated all the way down on the shaft.(black cogged wheel)

Next make sure Logic Board plug is on correctly and seated down all the way! If not, this can cause false RPM reading. Good luck!

Always make sure Operator is unplugged!! If you touch that board against the metal cover..Kiss it Goodbye.

 

[38 Dodge Coupe]

Last year I was faced with a similar situation. I almost always would rather fix a broken part that purchase a new door opener. However after some research my wife suggested that perhaps this time it might be worth putting in a new unit. Sears had their garage door lift on sale and it came with a remote that could be accessed with your smart phone. I reluctantly purchased and installed the new unit. Wow was I pleased and surprised. Not only did the new unit operate much quieter, I found it to be helpful to be able to check on my phone and make sure I had closed the door after I left the house. Did I really need the extra functions. No not really, but I am glad I did. There is no doubt that I will continue to "fix" an item before I replace it, but sometimes the newer functions are worth it.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

It took the entire opener down from the ceiling again. Disconnected the track from the motor unit and hooked everything. I had a couple of shims on the shaft under the collar, took a thick one out, put it back together, put the interrupted cup on, made sure it went below the two openings in the U-shaped plastic.

Put it all back up ... still runs 8", stops, and returns to the start point and stops.

This is very discouraging. I have to set this aside to get the Suburban cleaned out and ready for the trip to Lambeau Field tomorrow. 8" to 12" of snow predicted between Grafton and Green Bay.

I hate not being able to fix something that should be fixable, and then tossing it out for something "new". I might end up buying a new garage door opener.

 

[upndown]

Frustrating as Hell ain't it? Couple more questions before you beat it with a big *** hammer.

Have you checked the sensors? Make sure they are both lit? As many times as you've taken that opener up and down the low voltage wire is easily damaged or broken.

What happens if you hold the wall button down, will it complete the cycle? It should. This just over rides the sensors, if it doesn't then its your RPM sensor, It may have gotten damaged replacing the Gear and Sprocket assy. Good luck!

Have fun freezing your Nads off tomorrow, Did that a few times myself at Solders Field..

 

[Manganos]

What upndown said. I still stand by my RPM sensor diagnosis Too bad your so far away or I'd come by and fix it for ya .

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

What upndown said. I still stand by my RPM sensor diagnosis Too bad your so far away or I'd come by and fix it for ya .

Ordered the RPM sensor. Will advise how that works out. Thanks for all the advice!

 

[Coloshaver]

Problem with Craftsman Garage Door Opener Remote Control

I just had the same problem with a Chamberlain brand opener. Took it apart and found the gears to be trashed. Ordered the gear kit. I expect that to fix it.

HOWEVER: I have three doors to my garage. Over the 22 years I have owned the house, I added a Craftsman opener to the third bay. That Craftsman opener works, but the remote doesn't. Battery is good. Brand new and meters 3.2V. I can pair another Chamberlain remote to the Craftsman opener so the receive circuits are good.

Has anyone found a schematic for the remote? It is pretty simple. I have tried reflowing a couple suspect solder joints, but no joy. I can get a new remote for $25, but I'm stubborn and would like to try to fix the Craftman remote. If I could get some idea of the circuit, I think I can.

Thanks for your help.

 

[upndown]

If you erase the memory in the Craftsman opener and reprogram the Craftsman transmitter, does it work?

In some cases you can program one or the other(transmitters) but not both, they will cancel each other out. Hope that helps!

 

[Coloshaver]

If you erase the memory in the Craftsman opener and reprogram the Craftsman transmitter, does it work?

In some cases you can program one or the other(transmitters) but not both, they will cancel each other out. Hope that helps!

Thanks for the response, but I've already tried that. During the "syncing" operation, the opener never recognizes the Craftsman remote (but responds instantly to the Chamberlain remote). I really think the remote is not working. The Chamberlain remote came from the now dead, but soon to be repaired opener. So, when I get the opener working again, I am one remote short.

Thanks again

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

FIXED!!!! Thanks for all the advice and council.

Here is what it turned out to be:

1. The bearing was shot. The bearing, shaft, gear kit fixed that.

2. The RPM sensor was bad; as a number of you indicated.

What kept me from identifying a bad RPM sensor was that there is a ceiling light right behind the opener. When it was on, I couldn't see the green LED flashing five times which indicates a bad board ... either main circuit board or RPM sensor. The tolley moving 8" and back to starting position again is what confirmed the RPM sensor.

The open will be 15 years old in March of 2014. I think its good for another 10 years at least.

So ... to all those guys out there who trash something as soon as it doesn't work! HA! Fix it first.

Thanks again GJF!