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Condensing boiler is leaking - condensate not draing appropriately?

sevensandeights

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Apr 27, 2009
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368
Location
Mckean, PA
It's cold out right now - we all know that!

I was in my barn and noticed a large puddle of water under my wall mounted Utica condensing natural gas boiler that provides radiant heat to my concrete floor. I removed the cover and found one of the bolts on the bottom of the boiler chamber dripping one drop of water every 3 seconds. The drain had water in it but it looked dirty so I took it off and cleaned it out - there was some sludge in the tubing but the lumen was patent.

The unit is heating fine and keeping up with this cold weather - I have the thermostat set to 55 degrees. Any idea what is going on?

Water in condensate drain (looking from the left):


Water in the condensate drain (looking from the right). The bolt at the top middle of the picture is the one the leak is collecting on (you can see a droplet forming):


Overall system with lower cover off (ignore the yellow funnel - that is how I am dealing with the leak for now):


Overall system with lower cover on:


Plumbing - the condensate drains through the PVC pipe which goes outside and empties into a dry well:
 
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59 wagon man

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hollywood fla
check outside amd make sure the drain isnt covered with dirt or anything. disconnect the hose and try to blow thru the pipe
 

acmikee

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Feb 2, 2005
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olympia, wa
in the second pic right side is that bolt loose.
I would unbolt the pan and clean it and re gasket it.
blow out the rubber hose and the pvc drain line
is that drain trap higher that the bottom of the pan hard to tell in the pics
 

anthony666

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Dec 29, 2007
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Location
kirkfield ontario
my guess would also be that the line is frozen outside or in the wall and it's backed up into the boiler which is bad news

you're supposed to have it open dripping into a larger tube to prevent that happening .. put a bucket under it and yank the line off and let her drain out before it rots through
 
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sevensandeights

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Apr 27, 2009
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Location
Mckean, PA
in the second pic right side is that bolt loose.
I would unbolt the pan and clean it and re gasket it.
blow out the rubber hose and the pvc drain line
is that drain trap higher that the bottom of the pan hard to tell in the pics

Bolt doesn't feel loose and still has the factory paint on on it that marks the bolt and nut, presumably indicating its is torqued.

I thought the drain trap might be higher than the pan but this is how it came from the factory. What is the purpose of having a p-trap set up in this application? It's not like there is sewer gas present.

As for the drain pipe being clogged - it's possible but after it exits the block wall it goes 4ft into the ground into a dry well so I can 't check it. Also, the drain tubing that comes out of the pan only has water to the boiler side of the trap so it's not like the the entire run of PVC is full of water.
 
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crazy wheel

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Feb 26, 2011
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Bolt doesn't feel loose and still has the factory paint on on it that marks the bolt and nut, presumably indicating its is torqued.

I thought the drain trap might be higher than the pan but this is how it came from the factory. What is the purpose of having a p-trap set up in this application? It's not like there is sewer gas present.

As for the drain pipe being clogged - it's possible but after it exits the block wall it goes 4ft into the ground into a dry well so I can 't check it. Also, the drain tubing that comes out of the pan only has water to the boiler side of the trap so it's not like the the entire run of PVC is full of water.

The water in the drain, is condensate from the flue gasses. The water in trap keeps the flue gases from entering the conditioned space.

You can make sure...

EDIT: on checking the drain.

I see that there is a PVC riser, to the right of the heater.

Grab a funnel and a container of water and pour into the riser. See if it drains
 
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sevensandeights

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Mckean, PA
Just got back in from the barn.

Thanks for the explanation on the flue gases.

While I was in the barn I did check the drain - had the same idea you did and poured water down the riser. It drained without issue. I also disconnected the condensate drain inside the boiler and plugged the PVC connector it was attached to while blowing into the riser and there was no obstruction.

Lastly, I disconnected the condensate drain from the PVC connector and let it drain freely. A slow steady stream of condensate came out with the boiler on. There was still dripping water from the bolt in the picture even with the condensate drain hose openly draining into a bucket!
 

crazy wheel

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Feb 26, 2011
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Just got back in from the barn.

Thanks for the explanation on the flue gases.

While I was in the barn I did check the drain - had the same idea you did and poured water down the riser. It drained without issue. I also disconnected the condensate drain inside the boiler and plugged the PVC connector it was attached to while blowing into the riser and there was no obstruction.

Lastly, I disconnected the condensate drain from the PVC connector and let it drain freely. A slow steady stream of condensate came out with the boiler on. There was still dripping water from the bolt in the picture even with the condensate drain hose openly draining into a bucket!

Next step, call the installing contractor and ask for a service tech to take a look at it.
 

bazar01

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Jan 30, 2009
Messages
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Location
Leesburg, GA
in the second pic right side is that bolt loose.
I would unbolt the pan and clean it and re gasket it.
blow out the rubber hose and the pvc drain line
is that drain trap higher that the bottom of the pan hard to tell in the pics

+1
Pull out the trap and clean it. The bowl is getting filled up with condensate due to outlet blockage. If there is a float, check for proper operation too.
 

anthony666

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Dec 29, 2007
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987
Location
kirkfield ontario
btw .. there are 4 allen heads that retain the pump motor .. they are evenly spaced so you can clock the motors .. it doesnt have to face the wall like that .. rotate the pump housing 180 on it's axis and the the pump 180 et voila

& you have a copper MIP screwed into a cast iron union .. that MIP should ideally be brass to minimize dissimilar metal corrosion down the road
 
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sevensandeights

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Apr 27, 2009
Messages
368
Location
Mckean, PA
+1
Pull out the trap and clean it. The bowl is getting filled up with condensate due to outlet blockage. If there is a float, check for proper operation too.

I disconnected the trap and cleaned it thoroughly so there is no blockage there anymore and the problem is still occurring.

Now that it's starting to warm up (at least above zero!) I will call the installer. I didn't want him focusing on my barn when people were without heat in their homes!
 
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