Scottishross
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2012
- Messages
- 621
It's coming together mate looks good
Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT British Garage planned
- Thread starter bazzateer
- Start date
Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
ct71rr
Well-known member
Coming along very nicely.
rixtrix1
Well-known member
Coming together nicely! I, too, believe in the build it, not buy it, philosophy unless necessary. I like your resourcefulness in finding building supplies, especially when funds are low. I live in a major metropolitan area and can't find discards, overages or salvage items like a lot of European GJ'ers do and "dumpster diving" is frowned upon by the local gendarmerie here anyway.
Cheers guys.
Thanks, I needed some 3x2 timber. Priced it up from a dealer and it was about £40 for the amount I needed. Went back to the reclaim site and got slightly more for £10. 15 mins removing a few nails and screws and all done. Not sure I'll ever buy new wood again!
Sparky came round last night and had a good look at what I'm planning. He's happy with my plans and with me doing most of the laying of cables and locating of sockets etc. My lighting plan is slightly complicated so he wants to do that aspect and he will also make all the connections etc. Just need to get a few more things then call him when I'm ready. We didn't discuss cost but I get the feeling that as a friend of a friend it won't be expensive. He's a car guy too so that helps.
RSOllie
Well-known member
Got my consumer unit fitted in the garage and he hooked everything up at the house end too
Tested for part p and it was £80 which I thought was a good price!
Tested for part p and it was £80 which I thought was a good price!
Grizz1963
Well-known member
Good to see the progress Mate.
Wish I lived closer and was able to pop over and give you an extra hand..... it helps having company and to get some bits up quicker.
Of course I would probably "find" you stuff you could use too.
Wish I lived closer and was able to pop over and give you an extra hand..... it helps having company and to get some bits up quicker.
Of course I would probably "find" you stuff you could use too.
Forgot to take pics (will try to remember tomorrow morning). Yesterday morning before work I spent a couple of hours running the power ring main cable round the garage - not a fun job! I also fitted the main light switch panel in position.
This morning I have been fitting some noggins between the studs to which I will be fixing the pattress boxes for the power sockets - hopefully tomorrow morning. Off to get ready for work now.
This morning I have been fitting some noggins between the studs to which I will be fixing the pattress boxes for the power sockets - hopefully tomorrow morning. Off to get ready for work now.
Lippyp
Well-known member
Did you say in another thread you used 6mm2 cable for the ring main? If so thats really overkill, the norm is 2.5mm which is a shedload easier to pull and also to fit into sockets. You might well struggle to get two 6mm cables into the terminals on your sockets. 6mm2 for a radial circuit for a 16A socket OK but not a ring.
Yep, 6mm. I know it's overkill but wanted it to be. This way I can run any bit of kit from any socket without worrying - I like the flexibility/piece of mind of that set-up. The pattress boxes have big enough holes for the cables - the sparky'll be doing that bit anyway!
It was a pain getting the cable around a few corners but I got there in the end. I can see why the sparky was happy for me to do that bit!
It was a pain getting the cable around a few corners but I got there in the end. I can see why the sparky was happy for me to do that bit!
This morning I fitted all the pattress boxes, rubber grommets and fed the cable ends through ready for connecting to the sockets. I'll add a copule of pics later when I get home. Should be able to run some 3 core plus earth cable for a two-way lighting circuit in the next day or so as well. Then I just need to buy some 1.5mm twin core + earth cable for the main lighting circuits - will need around 100m all together! Skint this month though so that extra purchase will have to wait until payday in Feb.
Once I've got it though I shopuld be able to get the sparky in to connect everything up.
Edit: Didn't get a chance to add pics last night, got home at 0030 and had to be back in work at 0600 so will add them later.
Once I've got it though I shopuld be able to get the sparky in to connect everything up.
Edit: Didn't get a chance to add pics last night, got home at 0030 and had to be back in work at 0600 so will add them later.
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Lippyp
Well-known member
Whilst you're at that stage you might want to conside adding in an outside socket, handy for all sorts from barbecues, to electric mowers to christmas lights!
MG David
Well-known member
I think you said you planned to cover those walls with plasterboard or something. If so is your sparky happy with horizontal runs? My recollection, which could be wrong, is that hidden cable runs in walls need to go vertically to the socket (or light switch) to make then easy for the muppet with a drill to find/avoid. I think horizontal cable runs need to be in surface conduit instead. Could be wrong but worth checking out.
Already done, third picture - not very clear but you can just see where some grey cable goes through the wall under the bottom left corner of the window - on the outside it sits just under the window-sill.
When the sparky was here he didn't mention that and the holes in the studs were there - I'll ask him when we next speak. A pain if I have to change things but still got loads of cable left so would only cost me time.
little d
Well-known member
Bazz,
something we do here in the states is to cover the front of the stud, anywhere ya have electrical wire or water pipes running horizontal, with a tin cap. This way, if someone tries to nail or screw the rock on (or even later, say trying to hang a picture or something), they will have a problem and hopefully realize it and move on.
something we do here in the states is to cover the front of the stud, anywhere ya have electrical wire or water pipes running horizontal, with a tin cap. This way, if someone tries to nail or screw the rock on (or even later, say trying to hang a picture or something), they will have a problem and hopefully realize it and move on.
Lippyp
Well-known member
From what I can find the rules state that the cable should only be run horizontally within 150mm of the top
OSG 7.3.2 Walls and partitions: "A cable concealed in a wall or partition must:
i be at least 50mm from the surface, or
ii have earthed armouring or an earthed metal sheath, or
iii be enclosed in an earthed steel conduit or trunking, or
iv be provided with mechanical protection sufficient to prevent penetration of the cable by nails, screws or the like (Note: the requirement to prevent penetration is difficult to meet), or
v be installed either horizontally within 150mm of the top of the wall or partition or vertically within 150mm of the angle formed by two walls, or run horizontally or vertically to an accessory or consumer unit (see Figure 7.2)."
If method 'v' is used in any wall or method 'i' is used in a part-metal wall then the circuit must be protected by a 30mA RCD.
I think if its getting certified for part P then you have to adhere to this. Best thing to do is get yourself a copy of the current 17th edition regulations like this if you're going to do all the wiring yourself. http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/0953788571/?tag=atomicindustr-21
OSG 7.3.2 Walls and partitions: "A cable concealed in a wall or partition must:
i be at least 50mm from the surface, or
ii have earthed armouring or an earthed metal sheath, or
iii be enclosed in an earthed steel conduit or trunking, or
iv be provided with mechanical protection sufficient to prevent penetration of the cable by nails, screws or the like (Note: the requirement to prevent penetration is difficult to meet), or
v be installed either horizontally within 150mm of the top of the wall or partition or vertically within 150mm of the angle formed by two walls, or run horizontally or vertically to an accessory or consumer unit (see Figure 7.2)."
If method 'v' is used in any wall or method 'i' is used in a part-metal wall then the circuit must be protected by a 30mA RCD.
I think if its getting certified for part P then you have to adhere to this. Best thing to do is get yourself a copy of the current 17th edition regulations like this if you're going to do all the wiring yourself. http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/0953788571/?tag=atomicindustr-21
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
We have very similar electrical standards down here, where every circuit up to and including 20 amps must be protected by an 30ma RCD.
BTW, looking good.
Payday next week so can get the last bit of cable then call in the sparky to do the electrics. Looks like I'm off abroad for work again shortly which will delay things by a week or so.
I also will have to break my promise not to put a car in the garage until it's finished as I've just agreed to buy this and it's too good to leave out on the street:
I also will have to break my promise not to put a car in the garage until it's finished as I've just agreed to buy this and it's too good to leave out on the street:
Lickers
Well-known member
Garage is coming along nicely. Good score on the E36, too. It's rare to see a standard car is such condition these days.
What engine is in it? I'm assuming it's a 323 or 328 given the stance of the suspension.
What engine is in it? I'm assuming it's a 323 or 328 given the stance of the suspension.
Nope it's just a lowly 318is with the M44 1.9 engine. Adequate perormance for my needs and reasonable economy as well. Like you said, standard ones in this condition are few and far between. This one has averaged less than 7k/year and has a full service history. It's as good as it looks and cost me £750 - I'm happy with that.
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Lickers
Well-known member
Whilst the engine is 'lowly' I bet its a lovely steer with the 4 banger up front. They're quite sweet handling cars from stock thanks to the position of the engine.
MG David
Well-known member
Don't let the new car take your focus off the garage!
xtremek
Well-known member
Got the cable for the lights and picked up the Beemer yesterday
Only had a chance to do about 50 miles in it so far but I'm very happy with it. It's not perfect but that gives me the opportunity to 'tinker' with it over time.
Won't get anything done for about 10 days or so as I'm off overseas with work tomorrow.
Only had a chance to do about 50 miles in it so far but I'm very happy with it. It's not perfect but that gives me the opportunity to 'tinker' with it over time.
Won't get anything done for about 10 days or so as I'm off overseas with work tomorrow.
Taurus
Well-known member
I looked through the whole thread now. A great project. You did the best possible out of your location. I'm looking forward to the next steps. I would love to build a garage on my own as you can do everything from the scratch right to your liking.
Taurus
Well-known member
Good luck and have fun!
Thanks.
We all know about Good v Cheap v Quick - you can have any two!
Sometimes I also have Time v Money v Ability - only seem to have two at a time. Got all the materials for the electrics and have had the time but I don't have the ability as far as signing of the safety certificate is concerned.
Realistically I think I'll have moved everything from my rented lock-ups into the finished garage by the end of June.
We had some good weather at last over the weekend so I threw up the small shed and filled it with the gardening tools. Also connected up the solar charged, 12v LED lighting system in it which seems to work OK - time will tell if the soalr charging works.
Also, gave the shed a coat of woodstain.
Took some pics but at work at the moment so will upload them later.
gtr cook
Well-known member
Great work so far, really looking forward to the finished article.
MG David
Well-known member
If you are getting out of the lock ups by the end of June does that mean you will have to move the floor finish up your work list?
If all goes to plan I hope to have the electrics done by the end of March.
Insulation and vapour barrier by the end of April - maybe even the plasterboard too?
Plasterboard and painting by the end of May.
Floor and storage by the end of June.
So, hopefully, if all goes to plan and I have the cash I might just make it.
Realistically I may have to keep one lock-up for an extra month or two.
I've already broken some of my rules by keeping the Beemer in there and today I replaced the exhaust system on the daily VW Passat Veggiewagon. Floor's a bit dirty now.........
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MG David
Well-known member
Ordinary dirt is probably OK its oil on the floor you need to avoid. But I am sure you know that.