Bought a couple old aircompressors

[Fluxion]

Ok, this is my first post here. I have been lurking for awhile and have decided it was time to start posting and I'm pretty excited about my latest acquisition!

My Dad and I bought two air compressors at an auction last weekend and finally got them home today. I went to buy one (the blue one in the pics below) but the other went so cheap Dad bought the other. We cleaned them up a little after I took the pics and plan to temporarily hook them up and make sure they run tomorrow. I also plan on moving mine into my shop this weekend and start the prep work for building a small lean-to shed just for this and my dryer. I kind of hate to even mention the price but I paid $120 for mine and Dad paid $160 for his. The only other bidder on either one was a scrapper. Now for some pics and a few questions at the end.

The blue one definitely has a Quincy 325 pump but the number to the right of the model is 102 so is the ROC 10? This one does have the inter-cooler and the oil filter. Also this one has a 3hp 3 phase motor and of course I will have to replace it with a single phase motor. I was wanting to install a larger HP motor, 7.5HP or maybe 5HP. I read that with the 7.5HP I can run the pump up to 900 RPM, Is this correct? I don't know what tank pressure this was run at but the working pressure is labeled as 200 psi. Aside from possibly needing a new safety valve and adjusting the pressure switch, what other adjustments would be needed?

The gold colored Binks of my Dads looks to have a Quincy 325 pump although a little different configuration. Can anybody help make a positive identification? I can take more pics if needed. This one is equipped with a 5HP 3 phase motor and Dad has 3phase in his shop, so he wants use it. There are two unloaders on the head and it doesn't have a pressure switch installed. Could this be set up to run the motor continuous? If so, what would be involved in switching over to run with a pressure switch? The safety valve on this one is rated at 125 psi and we would like to run the compressor at higher pressure. The tank is rated at a working pressure of 200psi so after replacing the safety valve, what adjustments would be required?

Can anybody point me to any more information on these? I would like to know all I can about these compressors and I am sure I will have more questions later.

 

[C96]

Welcome to the Garage, excellent score by the way, both of you.

We have a saying around here that I'm going to share with both you and your Dad.

You ****!!

Introduce your Dad to this site as well, I’m sure he will enjoy too.

 

[Cdstahlman]

Great scores! Look to be in great shape also. Be sure to check those tanks thoroughly as prior owners may have neglected to drain them often causing a weak spot or pin hole. Always best to be safe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[930dreamer]

Nice looking pair of Quincy's.

 

[bareass172]

Nice score! Glad you saved them from the scrap pile.

 

[Outlawmws]

Nice saves! Welcome to GJ!

 

[kams1973]

Great "you ****" worthy score x 2!!!

You fathers pump is a single stage pump. Your pump is a two stage pump. I recommend a true 5hp motor for your set up(minimum) with a starter.

It appears the pressure switch was removed and the port plugged on your father's unit. The head unloaders on both pumps are designed to unload the pumps in the absence of oil pressure.

Here's a link to a brochure. Page 5 has a bit of info you may find useful.
http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Quincy-QR25-Compressor-Brochure.pdf

 

[Fluxion]

Awesome! A "You ****!" on my first thread here, lol!


Thanks for the info guys, I'm guessing that since my Dads is single stage and the serial number starts with 240 that it's probably a Quincy 240 pump. I read somewhere that the ROC number is stamped on the end of the crankshaft so I will go take a look at that today. I am planning on running a 7.5hp motor with a starter on mine. I did notice an empty threaded hole on top of the head. It is directly above the inter-cooler piping on the exhaust side of the head. When I hand crank the pump air chuffs out the hole. Should this get a plug or is this for something else?

 

[kams1973]

The pump is a Quincy 240.

The port is probably there for a safety relief valve.

 

[Trey T]

the model 240 (quite old, ROC 10) is probably most valuable and rare pump for homeowners. You can probably run it at 700RPM w/ 3hp motor and get about 15ACFM @100psi.

I would love to have that model 240. Each of you still need to invest about $500 for motor and starter unless you got 3ph.

 

[mark52621]

You got two fantastic compressors there. All my experience is from rebuilding my qr 350. I've been told binks is a copy of quincy so anything I tell you about the binks pump is a guess.

For the blue pump:

It is a roc 102
Max motor hp for 325 is 5 hp
The hole on top is for an interstage pressure relief valve. It's set for either 60-70 psi.

for the gold pump:

I believe it is the same as a quincy 240 roc 10
I believe it has two towers because it has two single stage pistons
The quincy hydraulic unloader is built into the side of the pump. I don't think it is continuous

 

[Outlawmws]

the model 240 (quite old, ROC 10) is probably most valuable and rare pump for homeowners. You can probably run it at 700RPM w/ 3hp motor and get about 15ACFM @100psi.

I would love to have that model 240. Each of you still need to invest about $500 for motor and starter unless you got 3ph.

Only one of them will, his dad has 3 PH in his shop.

 

[Tarnished]

That's a DOUBLE ****!!
Congratulations, and keep us posted as you change out your motor. I have been looking for a single phase 5hp for mine also. Good luck.

 

[kams1973]

The Binks is simply a Quincy rebrand. The Gilbarco compressors I've seen were also rebranded Quincys. Keep up posted on your progress.

 

[unashamedlaborer]

Ok, this is my first post here. I have been lurking for awhile and have decided it was time to start posting and I'm pretty excited about my latest acquisition!

My Dad and I bought two air compressors at an auction last weekend and finally got them home today. I went to buy one (the blue one in the pics below) but the other went so cheap Dad bought the other. We cleaned them up a little after I took the pics and plan to temporarily hook them up and make sure they run tomorrow. I also plan on moving mine into my shop this weekend and start the prep work for building a small lean-to shed just for this and my dryer. I kind of hate to even mention the price but I paid $120 for mine and Dad paid $160 for his. The only other bidder on either one was a scrapper. Now for some pics and a few questions at the end.

The blue one definitely has a Quincy 325 pump but the number to the right of the model is 102 so is the ROC 10? This one does have the inter-cooler and the oil filter. Also this one has a 3hp 3 phase motor and of course I will have to replace it with a single phase motor. I was wanting to install a larger HP motor, 7.5HP or maybe 5HP. I read that with the 7.5HP I can run the pump up to 900 RPM, Is this correct? I don't know what tank pressure this was run at but the working pressure is labeled as 200 psi. Aside from possibly needing a new safety valve and adjusting the pressure switch, what other adjustments would be needed?

The gold colored Binks of my Dads looks to have a Quincy 325 pump although a little different configuration. Can anybody help make a positive identification? I can take more pics if needed. This one is equipped with a 5HP 3 phase motor and Dad has 3phase in his shop, so he wants use it. There are two unloaders on the head and it doesn't have a pressure switch installed. Could this be set up to run the motor continuous? If so, what would be involved in switching over to run with a pressure switch? The safety valve on this one is rated at 125 psi and we would like to run the compressor at higher pressure. The tank is rated at a working pressure of 200psi so after replacing the safety valve, what adjustments would be required?

Can anybody point me to any more information on these? I would like to know all I can about these compressors and I am sure I will have more questions later.

If you go onto Quincy's website you can get a free parts breakdown for both units in PDF. Your dads pump looks identical to my binks quincy 216-39. Mine is equipped with "dual control" so it can be run start stop or load unload (continuous run) let us know if there is any questions that haven't been answered already your pump can go up to 200psi per quincy but they don't recommend it for continuous duty at 200psi. 175 all day long, that being said there are minimum and maximum speeds for these pumps which will be on the front page of the parts Manuel. Oh yeah and You totally ****!!
.

 

[Fluxion]

Ok, Dad and I found a few hours to mess around with these compressors yesterday. I have spent most of my evenings since the auction online reading and watching all the videos I could find on the Quincy 325 pump so I don't know much about the 240. First we rolled the Binks into his shop and wired the motor up to see if it ran. It did run, and quiet too! It doesn't have a pressure switch so we didn't plug the tank and let it come up to pressure. The next step on this one is to get a disconnect and pressure switch. Is it advisable to use only the pressure switch for 3phase without a contactor? That is how our old compressor was set up, we used a disconnect with fuses but the motor had thermal protection on board. Dad is a little concerned about this Quincy 240 pump. The information I got from Quincy's website states the max pressure is 100 psi, most air tools are rated to use 90psi. If we set this up to come on at 90 and go off at 100 is this thing going to run all the time? I have read on a few different sites that these have been set to 125 psi, is this the better way to set it up?

The blue compressor was next. We rolled it into Dads shop and wired it up. It ran fine and was fairly quiet but it had a noticeable knock. I am not positive where it was coming from but I have a feeling its a rod bearing, it kind of sounded low in the crankcase. I didn't want to leave it sit outside and Dad's shop is pretty small so we moved it over to my place. Now I have it in my garage and need to figure out what to do next. I don't have 3 phase power here so I wont be able to test run it again until I purchase a new motor. Quincy says in their documentation that the typical HP range is 3-5hp, I know I have seen mention here online about running these pumps with 7.5hp motors. Will the 5hp motor run this thing at the maximum 900 rpm? I want to get all the CFM out of this I can for sandblasting, bead blasting and running air sanders. Also I would like to know if a 3425rpm motor will work. I'm talking about a true 5hp 3425 RPM motor with a 1-1/8" shaft. It looks as if I could use one with a 4" pulley and save some money over the 1725 motors. Is this feasible or should I stick with the lower RPM motor? I know the 4" pulley is approaching the minimum bend radius of a 5v belt but it should still work right?

I am not sure what to do next. I am concerned about the knock and want to make it right, what should I do to it first? Could the noise have been in the valves and should I disassemble them and see what they look like? Should I pull the inspection cover and look inside or does this really need to be broke down and inspect all the internals?

 

[unashamedlaborer]

Ok, Dad and I found a few hours to mess around with these compressors yesterday. I have spent most of my evenings since the auction online reading and watching all the videos I could find on the Quincy 325 pump so I don't know much about the 240. First we rolled the Binks into his shop and wired the motor up to see if it ran. It did run, and quiet too! It doesn't have a pressure switch so we didn't plug the tank and let it come up to pressure. The next step on this one is to get a disconnect and pressure switch. Is it advisable to use only the pressure switch for 3phase without a contactor? That is how our old compressor was set up, we used a disconnect with fuses but the motor had thermal protection on board. Dad is a little concerned about this Quincy 240 pump. The information I got from Quincy's website states the max pressure is 100 psi, most air tools are rated to use 90psi. If we set this up to come on at 90 and go off at 100 is this thing going to run all the time? I have read on a few different sites that these have been set to 125 psi, is this the better way to set it up?

The blue compressor was next. We rolled it into Dads shop and wired it up. It ran fine and was fairly quiet but it had a noticeable knock. I am not positive where it was coming from but I have a feeling its a rod bearing, it kind of sounded low in the crankcase. I didn't want to leave it sit outside and Dad's shop is pretty small so we moved it over to my place. Now I have it in my garage and need to figure out what to do next. I don't have 3 phase power here so I wont be able to test run it again until I purchase a new motor. Quincy says in their documentation that the typical HP range is 3-5hp, I know I have seen mention here online about running these pumps with 7.5hp motors. Will the 5hp motor run this thing at the maximum 900 rpm? I want to get all the CFM out of this I can for sandblasting, bead blasting and running air sanders. Also I would like to know if a 3425rpm motor will work. I'm talking about a true 5hp 3425 RPM motor with a 1-1/8" shaft. It looks as if I could use one with a 4" pulley and save some money over the 1725 motors. Is this feasible or should I stick with the lower RPM motor? I know the 4" pulley is approaching the minimum bend radius of a 5v belt but it should still work right?

I am not sure what to do next. I am concerned about the knock and want to make it right, what should I do to it first? Could the noise have been in the valves and should I disassemble them and see what they look like? Should I pull the inspection cover and look inside or does this really need to be broke down and inspect all the internals?

As far as the knock goes did you hear it before the pump loaded? Upon start up the pump will run for around 5-15 seconds unloaded depending on how cold it is (oil viscosity) before the hydraulic unloader allows the pump to load. *nevermind..... You have to have tank pressure for the unloader to work* anyway if you can run it again un-thread the inlet filter assembly and put your palm over the inlet now the pump is "unloaded" after a quick second or two the valves will go quiet and you will know if your knock is in the crank case. Also take a look at the oil, cut open the oil filter and see if it looks like Christmas. It is possible but highly unlikely that your pump has a rod knock. What kind of oil pressure was it making? I'll attatch a vid of my pump loading for reference. This is after it is warmed up..... Won't let me attatch it. Sorry. Also you can put whatever motor you want on that unit as long as you keep the pump speed within spec. It's just a ratio game as it seems your aware to figure out motor rpm vs pulley diameter vs flywheel diameter to give you pump speed.... On both units you really need a mag starter. I really don't care what a pressure switch says it's rated for it isn't reliable/safe for the motor/ ect. Not to mention any good motor is not going to have built in overload protection. So you need overloads on a mag.

 

[W0rLDWaR4]

Made out like a bandit! Nice compressors you got there

 

[kams1973]

I'd pull the side access cover on the 325. Give a good visual and pull the end caps off the connecting rods so you can inspect the bearings. Also, there is a minimum oil pressure Quincy recommends. Ensure the PSI guage is working. My memory is a bit foggy, but the pressure should be in the 20-28psi range.

As long as the 3450rpm motor has a service factor of 1.15, you shouldn't have any issues.

On you father's unit, I wouldn't hesitate to run it up to 125psi. I also think that set up is worthy of forking over the bucks for a proper starter. I think others here would agree.

 

[Fluxion]

Thanks for all the info guys! Since it has been a couple weeks since starting this thread I thought I would post an update.

My Dad actually paid for both compressors at the auction and I have tried to pay him back a couple times and he keeps refusing. He wants my help getting the stuff together to hook his up so I have ordered a few things and I wont let him pay me back. I bought a new safety relief valve rated at 125 psi and I just realized it should be a little higher since we wanted to run the tank at that pressure. I will see if I can get it swapped out to a 150psi. I also ordered a Square D pressure switch and a motor starter. I am pretty sure we have a 3phase 30amp disconnect switch in storage leftover from when we had our cabinet shop together. When all that gets here I will post another update on getting my Dads compressor up and running.

Now on mine, I haven't done much. I bought a new inter-stage safety relief valve and a new tank safety relief valve rated at 190psi. I also installed a new 2-1/2" pressure gauge on the tank to replace the one that disappeared between winning the auction and getting the air compressor loaded. The big news is that I did buy a Baldor L1430T 5hp motor. I still need to get a starter ordered, maybe I'll get around to that during break at work or something.

Now the question of the day, what size sheave do I order for the motor? I have seen 7-3/4" to 8" listed on various websites and on YouTube. I am assuming that when people list this diameter they are talking about the outer diameter and not pitch diameter. From looking at the wear on the V-belts and taking some measurements it looks like the pitch diameter of the pump pulley is real close to 15-5/8". With wanting to run close to 900 rpm with this 1725 rpm motor I would need to purchase a sheave with a pitch diameter of 8-1/8". I haven't been able to find one yet, I can get close at 8" and would run the pump at 881 rpm which might be good enough. So, what are your recommendations on sheave diameter?

 

[Fixnair]

I don't think the 3450 RPM motor is the best for that application. These motors have very low starting torque. I would think you would have to makesome sort of delayed loading to allow the motor to accelerate completely before loading.

 

[Outlawmws]

Those wil have an unloader so starting under load is not really an issue.

On the 8" sheave; you won't find one exactly 8-1/8" unless you have it made. they generally go in 1" increments, MAYBE 1/2" in smailer sizes

You are talking 19 RPM lower. Call it a safety margin and be done, as the 900 is your max rating to not wear it out overly quick.

 

[unashamedlaborer]

Those wil have an unloader so starting under load is not really an issue.

On the 8" sheave; you won't find one exactly 8-1/8" unless you have it made. they generally go in 1" increments, MAYBE 1/2" in smailer sizes

You are talking 19 RPM lower. Call it a safety margin and be done, as the 900 is your max rating to not wear it out overly quick.

And keep in mind there is quite a bit of adjustment to the oil pump. As long as that pump is getting good oil you can spin it WAY faster than recommended and It will outlast most other compressors.

 

[Speed-Racer]

What a great deal, glad you were able to save them from being scrapped.

If you need to rebuild your quincy. The YouTube link should be helpful or just search under quincy compressor rebuild on youTube.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Small tanks and single stage pumps, and the Honeywell name.... very possibly a building environmental systems pump (pneumatics) to move dampers and such, very common, or used to be. Also this type of compressor was used in fire control systems in large buildings also.

Charles

 

[PatJ800]

I 100% agree with Charles and was also going to say these are almost surely old control air compressors. "Honeywell" is a dead giveaway on the one. The other looks to be painted classic late 60's to mid 70's Johnson Controls green. They probably came from a school or hospital or something when they switched to DDC and ripped out the pneumatics.

Doesn't mean they can't be used for shop air, just takes replacing the drives and sometimes motors (and starters) with something that can take the FLA of the increased RPM. My personal shop air compressor is an old ACP duplex control air unit.

 

[Fluxion]

I have a quick update and another question.

As a couple of you have guessed these two compressors did come from a local high school auction. Mine, the blue Honeywell with the Quincy 325 pump was indeed used for environmental controls. My Dad's, the light green Binks branded compressor with the Quincy 325 pump supplied air to the wood shop spray booth.

I have received the new pressure switch, motor starter and safety relief valve for my Dads compressor and we are planning on getting it hooked up this weekend. I also received the new Baldor L1430T motor and the new 8" sheave will be here tomorrow.

Now my question. I have an hour meter that I bought off Ebay that is rated at 240 vac but the label also says "Polarity Sensitive". I was wanting to wire this up in parallel to the output of the motor starter to record the running time. Will this work connecting the two hot leads to the two terminals on the hour meter? Or, do you think this was intended for overseas where they have 240v on one lead and a neutral?

Some pics of the meter below.

 

[Fluxion]

The new Sheave came in yesterday and I was able to get new belts today. I can still detect a little knock and decided to post a short video. You can hear the sound change at about 20 PSI. Also when i shut off the motor i don't hear the unloaders unload so I guess this thing is going to need a little work.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/L2OdSY9ED3s" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>