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The VISES of Garage Journal

pedrodagr8

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Joined
Aug 25, 2013
Messages
613
When are you bounders going to quit butchering the Queen's English???


Wrenches = Spanners

Vise = Vice (Around here there is something to that, me thinks---)

Jig saw = Coping Saw (I think...)

Stopping by to see someone = Knocked up (Don't go there...)

Carpenter = Joiner

Etc----Etc----Etc

Quite!!!

4y7e3u6e.jpg


Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
 
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zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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16,939
Here is a TINY clamp on, covered screw vise I picked up a while back. Was $2 IIRC and super rusty. Cleaned up pretty well. Unfortunately in the past someone got a little overzealous with a cutting tool and left a groove across the top of the jaws. Thought it was too neat to leave behind. Used it the other day to hold some wires for soldering. :beer:
 

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t4runner

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Jun 9, 2012
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Location
Lake Grove. NY
I need some help with my Athol#730 vise I cant find to much information on it. Like date of manufacture or if its rare. I don't see anything with the combination of a removable static jaw and the stationary handle and swivel base. Any help with a resource link. Thanks
 

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Fretters

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South Yorkshire, England
Decided to see what I can do with this little thing, to get it looking something like. It's never going to be a precision thing or such, but this one took my eye for some reason, a few years ago.

1396445176baugh_leicester1.jpg


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1396445178baugh_leicester3.jpg



Here is a TINY clamp on, covered screw vise I picked up a while back. Was $2 IIRC and super rusty. Cleaned up pretty well. Unfortunately in the past someone got a little overzealous with a cutting tool and left a groove across the top of the jaws. Thought it was too neat to leave behind. Used it the other day to hold some wires for soldering. :beer:

That's a cutey. :) I like that.
 

GETRIDAONE

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May 21, 2013
Messages
1,549
Location
Auburn, GA
I need some help with my Athol#730 vise I cant find to much information on it. Like date of manufacture or if its rare. I don't see anything with the combination of a removable static jaw and the stationary handle and swivel base. Any help with a resource link. Thanks

I don't know if you figured it out yet but I think that Athol has the rachet feature on the handle. The bolt has been added because the originals are a screw flush with knob face. It could be the cogs in the mechanism were broken and that bolt was part of the fix. Pull straight out on the knob and see if there is any spring resistance. The model# on mine is 711 with 3 1/2" jaws and non swivel base. It has a patent date on the knob of 1911.
 

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t4runner

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Location
Lake Grove. NY
It doesn't appear to ratchet but you can pull out on the handle to re-position the handle, it also doesn't look like it was fixed by someone it looks factory to me.
The first photo is the handle in the locked position
The second photo is pulled out in the free position
The mechanism is spring loaded to make it return to the locked position.
 

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jakemac

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May 21, 2013
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9,035
Location
New England
t4runner - YOU **** !

A Reed 204 1/2 for $10 with the four lug swivel base ? You ****,You ****,You ****,You **** !
 

GETRIDAONE

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May 21, 2013
Messages
1,549
Location
Auburn, GA
It doesn't appear to ratchet but you can pull out on the handle to re-position the handle, it also doesn't look like it was fixed by someone it looks factory to me.
The first photo is the handle in the locked position
The second photo is pulled out in the free position
The mechanism is spring loaded to make it return to the locked position.

http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2012/04/1920s-era-athol-vise.html
This shows what makes it work. It is more of a gimmick than anything.
 

Mark in Indiana

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Aug 11, 2010
Messages
3,057
Location
Southern Indiana
Thanks Guys, but it still is not apart so I don't know what surprises lay in wait.

My 204 came apart pretty easy after pressing the dynamic jaw out of the body. The vise overall is in great shape except for one of the handle ends that probably laid in the dirt for 20 years.

The only thing now to fight is the center bolt that holds the body on the swivel base. Gonna have to heat the base while pressing on the bolt.
 

zoomieport

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Nov 21, 2011
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The Mall City
I had to do it, I finally got the Wilton 800S I've been looking for...:dunno:
 

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EOC_Jason

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Jun 25, 2012
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Location
Bentonville, AR
My 204 came apart pretty easy after pressing the dynamic jaw out of the body. The vise overall is in great shape except for one of the handle ends that probably laid in the dirt for 20 years.

The only thing now to fight is the center bolt that holds the body on the swivel base. Gonna have to heat the base while pressing on the bolt.

Yeah I had a couple where the swivel bolt was stuck in good. Thankfully I was able to remove the lock-down handle then unscrew the whole base off the vise. Then it was just a matter of beating the bolt out from the base. They sure made it a tight tolerance!

I had to do it, I finally got the Wilton 800S I've been looking for...:dunno:

Congrats!!! Did you ever find a Reed 2C yet? Hehe...
 
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KMScott

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Feb 14, 2012
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4,642
Location
Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
Congrats Zoomie. I see it has found a home with the others in your spare bedroom, how do you get away with that. I get so much grief from my wife for having my jaws in her laundry room.
 

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mcmlvif100

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May 2, 2010
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627
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Northern Indiana
Pictures of the Dodge Slide Set I have been working on

How does the quick release work on that one? I see the ridges on the slide support, but how do you engage or release it?


Patent drawings (attached) might help to show how the vise works.
 

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oldldh

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May 22, 2012
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Location
Fairhope, AL
I had to do it, I finally got the Wilton 800S I've been looking for...:dunno:


My, that's a big one---a toe smasher, for sure...don't drop it...:thumbup:


Now, that you're going to trade a 600S for a 2C...:sad::sad:


All we've got to do, is find the "Ever Elusive" Reed 209, for "everybody's" massive collection, and the "Forever Elusive" Craftsman 5198, for my workbench...I wonder how many 209's we're going to need???:dunno:


The 5198 is strictly to counterbalance the Starrett 925 on the other end...:evil:


I'll even use it, after I restore it...if I ever find THE "ever elusive" 5198...;);)


And, I'm going to paint it---


Wait for it---


"ARREST-ME-RED"!!!!
 
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C.BRAXMAIER

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Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
160
Congrats Zoomie. I see it has found a home with the others in your spare bedroom, how do you get away with that. I get so much grief from my wife for having my jaws in her laundry room.

Kevin you should see his basment:eyecrazy:
 

GETRIDAONE

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May 21, 2013
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Location
Auburn, GA
How does the quick release work on that one? I see the ridges on the slide support, but how do you engage or release it?
My DSL quit working last night ? When you turn the handle about 1 1/2 turns either way it will release or engage. The main nut sits in a cradle that has a pawl that drops into to the ridges. It is heavier on the front end so that when it moves forward on the cross pin it drops enough to engage the ridges in the plate. The same in reverse and it lifts to free the slide to move back & forth. The slide has cross pins for bracing and cradle/pawl is laminated with thin copper strips in between ? I had to drill out three of the jaw screws and grind some new ones with a taper similar to a Wilton. The handle balls were broken off so I replaced those. I coated all the inside sufaces with paste wax to keep the rust down. It was light machine gray so that boring color is what I put back on it.






 

GETRIDAONE

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I know it is a little over done for you Fretters and I didn't have any left over red paint :lol:The original handle had threaded balls on it. I found some at Mcmaster Carr and had to retap one and drill and tap the other. I found a 5/8 drill bit would dish it out for the ball to fit snug.
The other thing I didn't mention was about the grease on it when I took it apart. In the first set of pictures you see the swivel base bolt stuck to the side of the base. All the grease was like sticky glue which caused the moving parts inside not to move freely. It was as bad as black dried up and caked on grease to get off.
 

Fretters

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I know it is a little over done for you Fretters and I didn't have any left over red paint :lol:

:D


The original handle had threaded balls on it. I found some at Mcmaster Carr and had to retap one and drill and tap the other. I found a 5/8 drill bit would dish it out for the ball to fit snug.

Cheers. :) Been trying to decide what method to go with for some of these handles. Tap and thread would probably be easiest.


The other thing I didn't mention was about the grease on it when I took it apart. In the first set of pictures you see the swivel base bolt stuck to the side of the base. All the grease was like sticky glue which caused the moving parts inside not to move freely. It was as bad as black dried up and caked on grease to get off.

Grease can be horrid stuff after a few years, can't it. I put some old Shell grease in some plastic tubs as the old containers had rusted somewhat, and the amount of oil which has parted from the grease and is pooled in the bottom is a fair amount, so it goes to show what happens to it in use.

Still trying to decide what method to go with for lubrication on the vice slides, because of that. I used to used the Copper-Slip type stuff, on both the leadscrew and slide, but that stuff does the same over time, so the last couple of vises have had the leadscrew lathered with grease but I've only oiled the slides on reassembly, as coupled with greases ability to cling onto any dust, filings and swarf like there's no tomorrow means I'm becoming more disinclined of using it at all where it isn't well covered.

Btw, is that a stop on the end side of the slide, to stop it being pulled out too far? If so, is that an original item or something you add?
 
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GETRIDAONE

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Fretters, That screw was mentioned in the patent information as a safety device :wtf: It had allen head screws holding the rigided plate and that one in the slide. I've never seen allen screws used in a vise from the 50's or 60's
wrenchguy, I wonder how zoomie got the crane in to set that Monster down.
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Pacific Northwest
Getridofone you sure know how to make that old US steel shine. your pictures are giving Kevin's a run for his money on who has the best vise ****.

also for a simple looking vise it looks like you need an engineering degree to take it apart and put it together. when you first took it apart and posted those pictures i was wondering what that piece was that i guess sits on the notched slide and is the quick release. i know you have probably taken apart and put together more vises than most so how would this one rate in difficulty?


Zoomie nice addition to the Wilton gang and is that a mini on top of it or just a regular 3 inch Wilton bullet? since most of us don't own or haven't seen an 8 inch Wilton in person can you tell us how much it weighs? so your Wilton collection is complete once you get the 4 inch Swivel jaw? do you have almost as many Reed vises or just a couple to talk to your Wiltons?
 

GETRIDAONE

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I've been thinking about that too. Has anybody tried never-seize??

The anti seize works great but it ends up on everyting somehow.

drivesitfar: Thank you for the compliment. I had to stand on one foot, close one eye, use a long skinny screwdriver to align the nut/cradle to get the pin through the slide. I like the fact that you didn't have to fool with main nut, pin, and retaining collar to take the slack out of it.
 

Mark in Indiana

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Southern Indiana
I've been thinking about that too. Has anybody tried never-seize??

For the vises that I keep, I use Lubriplate white grease. It doesn't separate like regular bearing grease over time. Although it still needs to be cleaned and re-applied occasionally, it's clean & cheap.

For the higher end vises that I sell, I use a clear silicone grease that you would use in electronics. It's more ascetically pleasing and doesn't collect dirt like other greases.

For guide rods on wood working vises, I use furniture polish.

Anti-seize is used on the spindle threads and internal pivot jaw parts.

I hope this helps.
 

Fretters

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Jan 25, 2014
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South Yorkshire, England
The anti seize works great but it ends up on everyting somehow.

Is that stuff similar to Coppa-(Ease|Slip), judging from their site? Definitely does put even grease to shame on it's ability to get on absolutely everything if so. You find copper colour fingerprints everywhere. :D I've found that stuff, (whilst I do like it and have used it until recently on the vices), suffers most of the same drawbacks as standard grease though, (I believe it uses a standard grease base?). It dries out eventually and solidifies, and it clings to any and all crud which gets near it. That's why I'm on the hunt for a replacement. Was thinking that a beeswax and graphite concoction might be worth trying?
 
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