I'm interested. What do you use to dig down 12"? A shovel? Or do you bore hole? Do you just poor the nitrogen in? Is this some kind of nitrogen feeder a professional would have?
Everything I planted last year died. The cleveland pear and a red maple. I thought the pear would make it. It started to bud, but then died. The locust I planted two years ago is OK, but it has quite a few dead branches. The green cypress I planted two years ago died as well. The arborvitaes I planted did fine so I replaced the cypress with more of those.
So as you can see I'm not very successful with plants. We did have a terribly cold winter though and most of the plants that died were fine last year.
I always enjoy reading up on this thread. Thanks Thomas.
I'm no master gardner
DP121 but I can grow grass from seed and have had reasonable success with transplanting trees over the years.
Don't be hard on yourself, you were not alone losing plants and trees last year. It happened everywhere.
This last year was a terrible year for plants and trees in general, at least here in the Mid-West.
We had a long stretch, several weeks, of 100º ( 38º C) plus temperatures for starters with little to no rain, again for weeks and weeks and then a brutally cold, long winter.
The high temps put plants under stress to begin with and if they weren't watered throughout the summer/ fall ( I was still watering my tress into November last fall it was so dry) that lack of moisture added to their stress.
The stressed, weaker plants then succumbed to the cold winter.
I started last summer by watering all the new trees as the dry weather took hold and as I mentioned, continued the watering routine until late fall.
I surface spread generic fertilizer (10-10-10) around the base of the tress out to the drip line. Roughly 2 cups per tree. That amount will vary depending on the size of the tree or plant.
This gave the plant some food to nourish it throughout the winter and early spring.
Then in late April or early May, just before the trees or plants leaf out I add nitrogen which will really give the plant a boost while it's starting to send out new growth for the coming year.
I use a root feeder to put the nitrogen right down at the root zone.
This feeder is pushed into the soil all around the drip line to a depth of 12". The feeder has a dimple at 6" and 12" depending or what type of tree and how new or established it is so you can be consistent with the depth. Note the hole at the end which is where the nutrient is dispersed into the soil. There are 2 holes, 180º apart.
The feeder is attached to a garden hose...
...and fertilizer refills are added in here to dissolve when the water is turned on and dispensed out the tip at the bottom into the root zone. That's why I prefer this type as opposed to just spreading material on the surface for spring fertilizing.
For spring the plants needs nitrogen...
...so I use refills that are high in nitrogen, 25-10-10. This is not an ideal way to add nitrogen since the amount added can be diluted if you leave the water on too long or not long enough.
The best way is to mix a nitrogen rich solution up and pump it from a dedicated tank.
That way the amount delivered can be more precise.
I don't happen to have that kind of equipment so this how I do it. It works but you have to time the amount of material being injected and move the feeder around the drip line.
There are several different brands of these root feeders and they all much the same I think.
Success or the lack there of is dependent on the operator. Evenly space out the amount of fertilizer around the plant.
That's our thought for the day. Hope that answers some of your questions and if not, ask away. In the meantime I'm back to hunting more gold bars in the Tool Shed.
Thomas