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let's see your craftsman block grinders

TEXACMAN

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Bought this one for $20.00 this weekend 1/2 HP. It is missing whole guard on wirewheel side and outer guard on right. Any one sell parts that you know of?
 

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McBrownie

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Outlawmws

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$20 NIB would be my tops, $5 loose in the bottom of a pile. I paid about $1 for mine, but I'm a miser. :dunno:

I paid $5 for a loose used one, got one basically free along with a flat blade sharpening guide #335.19495 and belt and motor driven grinding stone for $15, and the latest, NIB with instructions for $10

A quick scan at Eprey sold for supports just a bit higher - general range from 10-25 depending on condition, and as always, the skill of the seller to hype his wares, and lets not forget the phase of the moon ;) and time of year (seriously, winter historically gets higher prices..)
 

softailgarage

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I don't know if this is an exact fit, but it's an old us-made cutler-hammer. ]

I do believe it may work. The guy is on vacation till the 12th, but I'm definetly ordering a couple. Thanks :beer:

Cults & virgin sacrifices? Hmmm, now I know I'm in the right place :lol_hitti

Anybody notice how the market has dried up a bit? CL has been grinderless for a couple of weeks now.
 

Outlawmws

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I do believe it may work. The guy is on vacation till the 12th, but I'm definetly ordering a couple. Thanks :beer:

Cults & virgin sacrifices? Hmmm, now I know I'm in the right place :lol_hitti

Anybody notice how the market has dried up a bit? CL has been grinderless for a couple of weeks now.

Maybe they are all on Eprey? :dunno;
 

Itinerant

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Bought this one for $20.00 this weekend 1/2 HP. It is missing whole guard on wirewheel side and outer guard on right. Any one sell parts that you know of?

From your pic it looks like the label is mostly faded out so I don't know if you can read the model number. There are a very few of these that the guards are still available for here:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/

and here:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/craftsman-parts-c-158286.html

If you can't read the model number pull the wheel off the right side and get the part number off that guard, then cross reference it on the searspartsdirect.com site to determine the model number. You'll have to manually access each model similar to yours because the search function won't return a hit on a part that's no longer available.

Good luck.
 

TEXACMAN

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Yes the label is very faded! Today I flipped it over , pulled the bottom plate and do not know how it ran so smooth , the whole inside cavity is covered in East Texas Dirt Dauber nests , man they get in anything !!
 

McBrownie

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Yes the label is very faded! Today I flipped it over , pulled the bottom plate and do not know how it ran so smooth , the whole inside cavity is covered in East Texas Dirt Dauber nests , man they get in anything !!

Tex,

The number should start with a 397 and is most likely a 397.19340 based on a picture on the resource thread I sent a little earlier. (1/2hp same color switch)

Also, this thread has a link to the side cover fabrication:

http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=4135.msg55745#msg55745

That is, once you are done with the bug spray. ;)
 

drivesitfar

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All: so i picked up this old Craftsman (pre block?) that runs like a tank. i posted on the vintage thread, but i also want to show the block heads my cast iron one piece stand.

is it cool or is that just me thinking so? also it looks like it might have had something on the broken off handle. any idea who this company is or what would have been on it originally? if i do get a 1 HP Block i think it might have to go on this stand.
 

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torqueman2002

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All: so i picked up this old Craftsman (pre block?) that runs like a tank. i posted on the vintage thread, but i also want to show the block heads my cast iron one piece stand.

is it cool or is that just me thinking so? also it looks like it might have had something on the broken off handle. any idea who this company is or what would have been on it originally? if i do get a 1 HP Block i think it might have to go on this stand.
It's like: "Trés Cool". :rocker:
 

McBrownie

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All: so i picked up this old Craftsman (pre block?) that runs like a tank. i posted on the vintage thread, but i also want to show the block heads my cast iron one piece stand.

is it cool or is that just me thinking so? also it looks like it might have had something on the broken off handle. any idea who this company is or what would have been on it originally? if i do get a 1 HP Block i think it might have to go on this stand.

Looks like an old "115" Packard Electric Craftsman. That stand deserves a 1HP, or two, or three. Nice find!
 

drivesitfar

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McB and TM: thanks for the kudos on the stand. it's not going anywhere except to get shined up and ready. the old grinder might not be around long since it is only a 1/3 and most of you know i have a few grinders. also it just isn't a block (or a Baldor).

any pictures of a tool made to sit on this stand either PM me or post here if easier.

have a great day all.

All: WWII posted this on the vintage grinder thread about my old Craftsman and stand.

The Craftsman grinder is late 1940s or early 1950s.

Klizbe Mfg. made special-purpose grinders and sharpeners, so the stand under the Craftsman grinder originally had a Klizbe grinder/sharpener of some sort on it.

i'll be Googling for this grinder to see what it looked like or if any of you have seen one please PM or maybe do a quick post?
 
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biscuit141

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I recently picked up a 397.19591, I believe this is a 7" model, correct? Where is a good place to by 7" wheels, as they don't seem to be a popular size in the hardware stores.
 

torqueman2002

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cagullett1

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cagullett1

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I've been trying to get ahold of this guy since the hour he posted it. I was in Denver for a week visiting family, and was hoping he would respond before I left. My wife is still in Denver, and I'm hoping he responds to the message I sent him today so she can pick it up before she leaves! (obviously not going to pay asking price)

http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/4553335733.html
 

McBrownie

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I've been trying to get ahold of this guy since the hour he posted it. I was in Denver for a week visiting family, and was hoping he would respond before I left. My wife is still in Denver, and I'm hoping he responds to the message I sent him today so she can pick it up before she leaves! (obviously not going to pay asking price)

http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/4553335733.html

Very interesting! That 1/2hp 7" commercial is a 397.1949. It looks just like a 397.19591. Same side covers and eye shields, except it has a plastic switch. The 397.19591 has a metal switch. I assume the 397.1949 is a little newer. The numbers on these grinders seem to increase up until about 1970, and the start counting down again. Has anyone put together a list of model numbers or figured out any pattern or logic for the numbering system? A timeline, of sorts, is what I mean.
 
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cagullett1

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Very interesting! That 1/2hp 7" commercial is a 397.1949. It looks just like a 397.19591. Same side covers and eye shields, except it has a plastic switch. The 397.19591 has a metal switch. I assume the 397.1949 is a little newer. The numbers on these grinders seem to increase up until about 1970, and the start counting down again. Has anyone put together a list of model numbers or figured out any pattern or logic for the numbering system? A timeline, of sorts, is what I mean.

I didn't even catch that it was a different model number. I noticed the switch was a newer style, but everything else about it looks identical to the 397.19591.
 

biscuit141

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I didn't even catch that it was a different model number. I noticed the switch was a newer style, but everything else about it looks identical to the 397.19591.

My 397.19591 has the same switch as the 397.1949 for sale in Denver. Not sure if that means mine was replaced at some point or what.
 

McBrownie

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My 397.19591 has the same switch as the 397.1949 for sale in Denver. Not sure if that means mine was replaced at some point or what.

I don't believe it would be a drop in replacement - square hole versus round, I would think. So much for my theory! :lol:
 
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Jim C.

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I saw this one yesterday at a fire station in Naperville, Illinois.
 

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McBrownie

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I saw this one yesterday at a fire station in Naperville, Illinois.

I picked one of those in about the same shape a few months ago for $25. After a new set of bearings, new eye shields, new light socket,and a set if fabricated tool rests, it ended up being a nice grinder. However, it was a lot more work than I thought it would be.

Is that one for sale?
 

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torqueman2002

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widdors

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Picked this one up today and pretty stoked about it. I think it will clean up pretty easy. The only thing I'm wondering is if it's kosher to add a toggle switch, I guess the previous owner used a switch on his workbench to power it on.
 
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macnewbie

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Widdors, I think if you remove the rectangular plate held with two screws at the front center of the grinder you will uncover the location for the original toggle switch on that model.
 

McBrownie

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Picked this one up today and pretty stoked about it. I think it will clean up pretty easy. The only thing I'm wondering is if it's kosher to add a toggle switch, I guess the previous owner used a switch on his workbench to power it on.

Nice vintage round top! I would definitely add a switch, but I would make sure it was of the period - early 60's. A few pages back, there was a link to an eBay listing to some old Cutler-Hammer toggles switches.

Congrats on getting a block grinder! :thumbup:
 

Itinerant

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The only thing I'm wondering is if it's kosher to add a toggle switch, I guess the previous owner used a switch on his workbench to power it on.

By all means add a switch if you like, but I don't believe that model had a switch but was rather, "plug and play". I've seen several and none had a switch and there is no switch shown on the parts diagram at Searspartsdirect.
 

widdors

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By all means add a switch if you like, but I don't believe that model had a switch but was rather, "plug and play". I've seen several and none had a switch and there is no switch shown on the parts diagram at Searspartsdirect.


Ya, I didn't figure it was broken, but would like to add a switch for convenience.

I'd go with a foot switch instead of a toggle. That would be kewl.

I would love to do that, I can picture me walking over with my hands full, and just stepping on a pedal. My plan is to build a small cabinet of drawers to mount it on, and that doesn't leave any room for a foot switch.

Nice vintage round top! I would definitely add a switch, but I would make sure it was of the period - early 60's. A few pages back, there was a link to an eBay listing to some old Cutler-Hammer toggles switches.

Congrats on getting a block grinder! :thumbup:


****, I didn't even think of keeping the vintage look, I almost grabbed a plastic toggle from work to throw on it. Thanks for the heads up, I checked out those eBay links.
 
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