The VISES of Garage Journal

[balane]

Thank you. That is Valspar Satin Leafy Green. It's the closest color, in a spray can, that I can find to the original Wilton color from the early 40's.

 

[Oberst Hajj]

Thanks guys, that's kind of what I figured.

 

[PT Doc]

Here's a little 2.5" Chicago on a very uncommon clamp mount base. Autopts tells me this is the rarest base available on Wiltons. The date is 1947.

The vise itself is in truly excellent condition but unfortunately the base, at some point in time, was broken and then brazed back together. It broke where the clamping leg connects to the swivel base. It came to me with a huge, ugly, lumpy braze that looked like a disease was growing out of control on it. I spent more time than I care to think about smoothing it back into shape. You can only tell the braze exists now if you completely remove the base from the workbench and examine the underside of it. I'm pleased with how it turned out, I did not expect it to look this good when I first got it.

Anyway, it's a very nice vise in the old Chicago mint green and the base is cool and completely solid in my opinion.

.

Seems like a a weak design for the base.

 

[Fretters]

I'm not sure if your searched, but there was another vise that was described exactly like yours and sold a few months ago:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RECORD-NO...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

It was believed to be a Record

I seem to recall seeing that one, as the description is familiar. The odd ones I see on Ebay are pretty much where the assumption that they are Record's, and not Paramo etc., comes from. That's also why I've taken it with a pinch of salt so far too, instead of classing it as gospel. Looking at that photo, it seems a rounded end on the leadscrew is another slight deviation they have. I'm almost sure the marked Record's are flat ended.

 

[Fretters]

And just in case you're wondering what I started with. This is how it came to me originally.

Edit: No type of filler used either, all shaping and sanding.

.

Nice work. You were fortunate that it was braze. Weld would have been an absolute cow to smooth out in comparison. I still don't envy you the amount of time and effort it must have taken to get it looking something like though.

 

[tedsters]

balane

just want to complement you on your work you are kwite the craftsman when when it comes to detailed work, I don't think i could sell that 2.5 if i had it

 

[macgee]

Just found this listed on CL for $15. Not sure it's worth the 3 hour round trip though...

OH,

I have to completely agree with what the others have already said, to pass on that vise. If you live in CO there's a ton of better vises that come up for sale, I'm a bit envious of some of the deals I sometime see around Colorado Springs, especially for old blacksmith vises.

There's a 3 1/2" Athol on craigslist for $50 in your area and could probably negotiate a better price. There's also a new looking rotating Wilton for $50, there good but imported.

Just be a little patient, good vises will come up for sale nearby and cheap (maybe not for $15) but if you have to drive 3 hrs for it, it better be the holy grail of vises. In a non gas guzzler at highway speeds, it's probably around $40 +/- in gas alone not to mention your time. I would say that vise is not worth $55 even $15 is pushing it on a good day.

The real bummer is to drive all that way and find out the threads are trashed, it's cracked or the jaws don't line up.

Let us know if you find a nice one.

Cheers

 

[Outlawmws]

Beautiful restore job Balane!

 

[balane]

Thanks everybody.

One complaint I have about it is just how smooth the repaired section is now. Sure, smooth is great but when you look at it next to the rough cast iron finish the rest of the vise has it really stands out. At least to my eyes it does.

So my question is, if you have some smooth cast iron in front of you is there a way to replicate the rough cast finish so it blends in better? I knew it was futile but I tried hitting it with my media blaster and tried the media products I had on hand which was sand and glass bead. It had absolutely zero effect on the cast iron as I knew it would and as it should be. There's probably no way to do this, eh?

 

[LG63]

Thanks everybody.

One complaint I have about it is just how smooth the repaired section is now. Sure, smooth is great but when you look at it next to the rough cast iron finish the rest of the vise has it really stands out. At least to my eyes it does.

So my question is, if you have some smooth cast iron in front of you is there a way to replicate the rough cast finish so it blends in better? I knew it was futile but I tried hitting it with my media blaster and tried the media products I had on hand which was sand and glass bead. It had absolutely zero effect on the cast iron as I knew it would and as it should be. There's probably no way to do this, eh?

Never tried it, but maybe a needle scaler?

 

[EOC_Jason]

Time to just hand sand the whole thing smooth...

 

[balane]

Never tried it, but maybe a needle scaler?

Hmm, I don't have a scaler. Never used one actually. That's worth a thought. I could try it out on some scrap cast iron first. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[balane]

Time to just hand sand the whole thing smooth...

The thought crossed my mind actually, at least the entire base but I'm like really, really done with sanding right now.

 

[KMScott]

balane the scaler is a good idea, you can play around with the air pressure to not beat the dents to aggressive. Nice job as usual on that rare 2-1/2 inch. I have been taking notes on everything you mention about painting.

I am slowly getting to the point of the actual painting of several of my vises. Yesterday and today I put together several handles including the 2 inch baby and the Wilton 800 for customers along with several Swivel clamps. Need a couple Aluminum/Bronze wear plates made for the Colombian's spindle's and then I can start the de rusting process. The Colombians are my practice restoration vises.

 

[Fretters]

So my question is, if you have some smooth cast iron in front of you is there a way to replicate the rough cast finish so it blends in better?

I'd be tempted to try the natural way and rust it. Hydrochloric acid sprayed on, (simply because that one has the most aggressive rusting attributes, from what I hear. I believe you call it muriatic acid over there), leave it to air for a day or two and then derust it.

 

[Fretters]

Yesterday and today I put together several handles ....

Do you pein the ends or just punch?

 

[jakemac]

So my question is, if you have some smooth cast iron in front of you is there a way to replicate the rough cast finish so it blends in better?

You could always cheat it by sprinkling a little fine sand into the paint. The only problem with that is it would easily be knocked off during handling later.

Another other option would be to hide the smooth section by using a hammered or textured paint.

Or, try painting the smooth area with textured paint, then do a top coat over all the parts.

Maybe stipple bondo on the smooth area before painting ?

Unless of course, you feel like smoothing out the entire vise to match.

 

[KMScott]

Do you pein the ends or just punch?

I pein the material into a 60 degree chamfer on the knobs, shoud hold up pretty good, this is how most of the vise makers did it except they used a punch press and did it cold.

 

[balane]

All nice things to try guys, thanks so much. If I have any luck with whatever I try next time I'll be sure to report back. I really like the easy idea of putting down a base coat of textured paint and then spraying the final color over that. Sounds nice and easy!

Thanks also for the compliments on the 2.5" Scott, your handles look incredible as all your work does. Nick is going to be one happy camper!!

 

[Outlawmws]

That's one case where hammered paints hide a multitude of sins. It may not be exact, but it can mitigate the differences.

 

[Outlawmws]

I'd be tempted to try the natural way and rust it. Hydrochloric acid sprayed on, (simply because that one has the most aggressive rusting attributes, from what I hear. I believe you call it muriatic acid over there), leave it to air for a day or two and then derust it.

Muriatic is a dilute form of Hydro. Used as a pool chemical quite a bit.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I am slowly getting to the point of the actual painting of several of my vises. Yesterday and today I put together several handles including the 2 inch baby and the Wilton 800 for customers along with several Swivel clamps. Need a couple Aluminum/Bronze wear plates made for the Colombian's spindle's and then I can start the de rusting process. The Colombians are my practice restoration vises.

Damn... next thing we see you will have your own foundry out back and you will be casting entire new (classic) vises... lol...

 

[Fretters]

I pein the material into a 60 degree chamfer on the knobs, shoud hold up pretty good, this is how most of the vise makers did it except they used a punch press and did it cold.

That method should last out any of us. Cheers for the explanation.

Muriatic is a dilute form of Hydro. Used as a pool chemical quite a bit.

Cheers. Muriatic seems to be the word I generally see the most when hydrochloric is referenced across your side, so I'd just assumed it was another of those translation things. It's called hydrochloric in base form both sides of the pond then, I take it?

 

[Outlawmws]

SNIP
Cheers. Muriatic seems to be the word I generally see the most when hydrochloric is referenced across your side, so I'd just assumed it was another of those translation things. It's called hydrochloric in base form both sides of the pond then, I take it?

10-4

 

[jakemac]

I am slowly getting to the point of the actual painting of several of my vises.

Don't forget the most important tool you can have for painting vises. I suggest that you invest in the best quality display stump that money can buy, to compliment those outstanding jaws you produce.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Balane is going to have trouble selling that beat up old Wilton he just finished. There was no way to attach it to the stump

 

[Outlawmws]

Don't forget the most important tool you can have for painting vises. I suggest that you invest in the best quality display stump that money can buy, to compliment those outstanding jaws you produce.

Balane is going to have trouble selling that beat up old Wilton he just finished. There was no way to attach it to the stump

Sure he can! He can,,, Um, he um... GOT IT! he can send me that base, I'll send him my std. swivel base, and he's good to go!

 

[Provincial]

Balane, the best way to texture smooth cast iron to match sand cast is to sandblast with high pressure and very coarse sand. Barring that, a thin coat of Bondo and roll a piece of coarse sandpaper over it when it is still soft, but not sticky.

Nice job on the Wilton. A lot of work, but an unusual vise.

 

[balane]

Balane, the best way to texture smooth cast iron to match sand cast is to sandblast with high pressure and very coarse sand. Barring that, a thin coat of Bondo and roll a piece of coarse sandpaper over it when it is still soft, but not sticky.

Nice job on the Wilton. A lot of work, but an unusual vise.

Hi Provincial. I did try sandblasting it. For sand I used the heaviest grit sand my gun will squirt and at max pressure. It just had no effect at all on the surface. The bondo idea is a good one. I like the idea of applying a textured surface and then painting over it. I was going to try a light spray of textured paint as well. Thanks for the tips and compliment.

Outlaw, you have a good condition standard 3 ear swivel base that will fit a Chicago 2.5" Wilton vise? Base is 4.5" diameter, mounting holes 3 3/8" apart center to center. If buyers are balking at a repaired clamp base then a trade would be something I could consider if your offer wasn't in jest.

 

[Outlawmws]

SNIP

Outlaw, you have a good condition standard 3 ear swivel base that will fit a Chicago 2.5" Wilton vise? Base is 4.5" diameter, mounting holes 3 3/8" apart center to center. If buyers are balking at a repaired clamp base then a trade would be something I could consider if your offer wasn't in jest.

Let me check when I'm at home. I think it's a 3" vise, but possibly the bases are the same. And it was only half jest. (because I didn't think you would take me seriously)

I'd be in for a trade for that base.

 

[balane]

OK, cool. I've had a couple of 3" Chicagos come through my hands and I remember them as being larger but I handle a lot of vises so I don't trust my memory completely. Good to know a possible alternative route possibly exists.

Repairs scare off buyers, no doubt. I sold one Versa Vise in 90% condition, fully restored, and it went for $300. I had another Versa Vise, in equal or better restored condition, with a solid braze repair on the slide, it went for $110. I really couldn't believe what a huge difference it made considering that it will never become an issue for the user and that it could be barely be seen on a few small, unpainted areas.

 

[joe.striper]

Time for a fashion reality check. I was at NAPA auto parts truck division and I found these polyurethane electrical grommets and they actually fit my 5" bullet and my 6" Tradesman handles. Here's the question, i could have gotten them in black but what do you think of the colors? They cost $1.50 each. I cannot believe they fit over the 5" handle cause that's a biggun'! I rather like the blue on the Wilton blue vise.

I know they are VERY snug on the 5" vise and the 1760 handle is just about perfect. They will fit perfectly on a 4" bullet.

 

[balane]

I like the color very much but it's obvious they're grommets, no getting around that. I used grommets in the past and it always bugged me personally.

If you want to buy some cheap finger savers this link was posted earlier in the thread. These are good, affordable replacements that look as intended. Only come in black though so you'd lose the nice colors.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#neoprene-rubber-gauge-glass-washers/=t1ueay

 

[joe.striper]

I like the color very much but it's obvious they're grommets, no getting around that. I used grommets in the past and it always bugged me personally.

If you want to buy some cheap finger savers this link was posted earlier in the thread. These are good, affordable replacements that look as intended. Only come in black though so you'd lose the nice colors.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#neoprene-rubber-gauge-glass-washers/=t1ueay

I missed that, sorry. i do like the color on the 5" though.

 

[macgee]

I like the color very much but it's obvious they're grommets, no getting around that. I used grommets in the past and it always bugged me personally.

If you want to buy some cheap finger savers this link was posted earlier in the thread. These are good, affordable replacements that look as intended. Only come in black though so you'd lose the nice colors.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#neoprene-rubber-gauge-glass-washers/=t1ueay

Here's another source for fingers savers, not sure if these have already have been mentioned, they're kinda of pricey but if you only need one set then there not too bad. If he doesn't have your size you can probably ask him if he has others.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/inspectorhouse/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

`

 

[va.grouseman]

Macgee------That's where I got the ones for my Columbian 608 handle. It used to go WHAM, now it just goes thud. Sure has saved a lot of blood blisters.

 

[Carla]

balane the scaler is a good idea, you can play around with the air pressure to not beat the dents to aggressive. Nice job as usual on that rare 2-1/2 inch. I have been taking notes on everything you mention about painting.

I am slowly getting to the point of the actual painting of several of my vises. Yesterday and today I put together several handles including the 2 inch baby and the Wilton 800 for customers along with several Swivel clamps. Need a couple Aluminum/Bronze wear plates made for the Colombian's spindle's and then I can start the de rusting process. The Colombians are my practice restoration vises.

Hi, Kevin,

Well, I am impressed.......those handle tips will *never* come loose.

You do some seriously *quality* work.......... : )

cheers

Carla

 

[drivesitfar]

Joe: awesome find on those colored grommets that we can use as finger savers. i'm going to have to get some to accessorize my vises now.

VA: dang if that isn't the truth with the blood blisters if you are not paying attention opening or closing a huge vise. they work so smooth it's hard to believe the handles are that heavy until you get pinched and then the words come out quickly.

MaGee: I think that the seller on Ebay is one of our members here on GJ and a neighbor of KM's. a ton of good vise parts are coming out of that part of the country these days and looks like more now that Kevin is sharing more of his vise parts ****.

Balane: Diamond in the rough and as said before you'll have to make a new mount for the stump to handle the clampers. nice work on that horrible looking braze job.

 

[oldldh]

Here's another source for fingers savers, not sure if these have already have been mentioned, they're kinda of pricey but if you only need one set then there not too bad. If he doesn't have your size you can probably ask him if he has others.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/inspectorhouse/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

`

That is GJ member "Maclin"'s Ebay store...

He's the one that got the "good" vises from the Colorado Vise Hoard...

Reverend Scott got the "I think I can save these" from the same place...and he will---save them...

Maclin was the source of my Starrett 925...which, if I ever get off my dead ****, and it cools off below 125 degrees in my garage, I will finish restoring and post...

 

[macgee]

I used, for the first time, Hammerite's blue spray paint. In my opinion it destroys Rustoleum's hammer paint. Hard as nails and hammer finish comes out great.

Joe,

I totally agree with you.

Hammerite exceeded my expectations, it's almost too nice/pretty but I found it's very important to let it cure properly to get the "hard as nails" finish, otherwise for the ones who are impatient and feel that the vise is already dry to handle & ready to use before the recommended 30 days will pay dearly for it but once it's fully cured it is hard as nails. It's great stuff.

Found some good spray-can hammerite color samples.