Old post, I know, but couldn't not comment.
I don't see:
1. a single vertical rebar dowel
2. a single piece of vertical rebar
3. any horizontal joint reinforcing
4. any horizontal rebar for bond-beams
All of these would be crucial for a wimpy 8" CMU retaining wall even if it's only 8 courses high.
I think I see some grouted CMU cells, but they are too far apart and it looks like at the corner only one cell is grouted. And even if they put rebar in those grouted cells, without dowels, these are wasted effort.
Corners should have 3 grouted cells with vertical rebar married up with rebar dowels in each cell.
The vertical wood bracing along the back wall looks like a dead giveaway that they were afraid that backfilling would break the wall. This kind of failure does NOT come from getting CMU on the footing too early. This kind of failure can however result from backfilling a wall that is not strong enough to resist the lateral load applied during backfilling.
Yep, that would be my first guess. Insufficient wall strength. Not to mention, for that depth of fill on a retaining wall, my "calibrated eyeball" says that footer's probably a couple of feet too narrow, and an unreinforced footer without doweled in rebar there would be a huge no-no.
Just looking at the pictures, I certainly hope no engineer signed off on that design. That could cost someone their PE license if it was actually built that way to a stamped design. If the PE did a proper design and the contractor then built what's in the pictures, then the liability is all on the contractor.
...The next question is, how do you fix it? I can think of a couple ways to stabilize what's there and 'repair' the damage but it won't ever be the same...
Dammit, this *****. Sorry, man. Wish I could help.
Agreed. There aren't always good, reliable fixes for an improperly designed retaining wall that don't involve jacking and shoring your building, completely re-doing the foundation from the footer up, and a whole lot of pain. That
really *****. Hope your builder or engineer has good insurance.
...The engineer might think it looks good on flat peice of priperty but not with that severe slope and no backfill on lower walls
To look at it, my opinion would be to doubt an engineer ever saw it, and if one did, I doubt that foundation is what was designed.
I have no real experience in doing foundation work, but to me With all of this talk about tons of rebar and filling the blocks why not just throw up some forms and pour concrete? To me block walls seem old school, and even in modern days the DIY approach to foundation walls... Not meaning to offend anyone, just wondering.
...Good question. Did you notice that the workers were able to ready the pad for concrete in 5 days? Hand built forms would have added time and money. The type that are used in basement walls that are assembled and set by a crane are expensive.
The block wall and poured wall are going to require roughly the same amount of rebar and foundation prep, plus form work as Zeke pointed out. For a fairly low retaining wall like this, reinforced and grouted CMU usually ends up being more cost effective for the same strength overall, because of the huge savings in labor and formwork.
OP, obviously know you can't say much, but fingers crossed for a good resolution.
I've been involved in litigation for some pretty massive construction jobs gone wrong, and put simply, you can
never have too many photos when something is under construction, even with a great contractor. Well done on that. A good contractor will never mind you taking a ton of pictures, because he's got nothing to worry about. If your contractor doesn't like you taking a ton of pictures, take more, because he's probably doing something wrong.