The VISES of Garage Journal

[Fretters]

Have to belt sand it down a little and It will be perfect

Get the files on it. Sanders/grinders are, personally, the last thing I'd let near any type of machined or mating surface. You have a level of control and subtlety with files which you can't surpass with much barring precision equipment.

 

[PCO6]

I can't believe I took the time to rebuild one of these vices but I did. It was easier to take it apart to paint it than it was to do it while it was assembled. It's my "back yard" vice, the good ones stay indoors.

I've never seen one that is all in pieces posted in this thread so I thought you guys would "enjoy" it.

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[Burgerkong]

I can't believe I took the time to rebuild one of these vices but I did. It was easier to take it apart to paint it than it was to do it while it was assembled. It's my "back yard" vice, the good ones stay indoors.

I've never seen one that is all in pieces posted in this thread so I thought you guys would "enjoy" it.

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Oil can filled with concrete and hockey puck skates? Only in Canadeh lol

 

[PCO6]

Oil can filled with concrete and hockey puck skates? Only in Canadeh lol

All paint and hardware purchased at Canadian Tire eh.

 

[Outlawmws]

I have removed the both the set screw and the pivot bolt and have penetrating oil seeping out between the two pieces however it will not budge. I can see the joint is free as the upper plate or jaw will flex apart from the body but still no dice. Does your vise have a bolt or pin in the side where it looks like there is a pin or broken screw in mine?

That ugly pin sticking out is a taper pin for square alignment for regular use. That needs to come out, and its often a bear ( hence the vise grip teeth marks on the head of the taper...)

 

[KMScott]

That ugly pin sticking out is a taper pin for square alignment for regular use. That needs to come out, and its often a bear ( hence the vise grip teeth marks on the head of the taper...)

Outlaw is correct, I had experience pulling one of these Wilton pins that was really stuck. ended up drilling a relief hole before it finally was free. My first go around was welding a slide hammer on to the pin with my TIG. Even with this big chunk of brass slamming it, it still did not budge. I then drilled out a relief hole around a 1/2" and it came out. I measured Macklins 4" pin and came up with 2-1/2 degrees total or 1-1/4 degrees per side. His pin was .692 at the top and 1-1/8 length of taper. For Macklin it was safe to drill with a 9/16 drill bit. The taper figures out to be .100 smaller roughly. Lets hope you can get the pin out without drilling it or you will have to fab on. Good luck.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Just give up and send the swivel jaw to me... I'll take care of it...

 

[joe.striper]

Fretters, you been drinking? Ive got to remove 2-3 mm of material the entire top half of the back of that GIANT slide. The hand held belt sander will remedy it well and quickly.

 

[Fretters]

*****. (Mind you, that might explain why I have Popeye like arms ).

 

[joe.striper]

Joe very nice Parker, does it hav a swivel base? Are you going to restore it. Gonna have to start wearing steel toes shoes with the heavy iron you are picking up.

Oh yeah, swiveler baby, nice and smooth. I will need a Parker swivel bolt though, 1/2", as it it restrained simply by a 1/2 bolt right now.

I told my wife that this is the first vise that concerns me. I keep forgetting how big it is. I'll tell you, moving it was a b because I couldn't separate the dynamic jaw.

I am planning to paint it Hammerite green, on the lines of the old Wilton Green.

I'll post more pics soon.

 

[Outlawmws]

Fretters, you been drinking? Ive got to remove 2-3 mm of material the entire top half of the back of that GIANT slide. The hand held belt sander will remedy it well and quickly.

*****. (Mind you, that might explain why I have Popeye like arms ).

This might explain the "stripper" part of Joe's Username!

 

[wrenchguy]

Fretters, you been drinking? Ive got to remove 2-3 mm of material the entire top half of the back of that GIANT slide. The hand held belt sander will remedy it well and quickly.

i'd use files too. its what i used to fair the rough cast surface of my custom ridgid 8"'er. my final processes were a da with 400 grit then a buffer. Photo shows it at the 400 grit phase, not buffed yet.

 

[KMScott]

Oh yeah, swiveler baby, nice and smooth. I will need a Parker swivel bolt though, 1/2", as it it restrained simply by a 1/2 bolt right now.

I told my wife that this is the first vise that concerns me. I keep forgetting how big it is. I'll tell you, moving it was a b because I couldn't separate the dynamic jaw.

I am planning to paint it Hammerite green, on the lines of the old Wilton Green.

I'll post more pics soon.

I am making one for another vise collector, If it is easy to make I might make several. I'll want to thread it with my CNC using a threading endmill and program cutting the threads. The one I made last week I used a die and handle and was not happy with it. Wish I had room for a lathe. Look forward to pictures.

 

[wrenchguy]

I need some experienced vise restorer help please. How do i fix and make look new the area where the jaw pads join the lands. Its the prentiss 58 in the background i'm going to restore. The pads are tight and solid to the lands. I'm going to use allmetal bodyfiller on the other areas of it. My goal is to polish the pads to achieve a sharp contrast line to the painted parts. I don't think i can get the pads off. OR is it possible that it came with the irregular looking joint? thanks 4 any help.

 

[EOC_Jason]

If you could get the pads off, you can coat the back of them with some paste wax, then use JB Weld to fill the gap and stick the jaws back on and let dry. The paste wax prevents the JB Weld from sticking to them so you can pull them back off and sand & paint...

If you can't get them off but are planning on painting the sides, you can still probably gob in some JB weld. It will sand down quite easy compared to metal so you can get a smooth crisp surface.

Just send me the prentiss, I'll fix it up for you... and maybe return it in a decade or so...

 

[oldldh]

Just send me the prentiss, I'll fix it up for you... and maybe return it in a decade or so...

Let's see, the freight would be....


punch, punch, punch on the calculator...


Holy Sheep Dip!!!


I've run out of numbers!!!

 

[KMScott]

wrenchguy, I have the same problem but worse, I built thicker jaws and will machine the faces to accept the new jaws, I am not big on two part fillers. I would rather machine back the faces and add the material on the jaws. Curious what others say to.

 

[EOC_Jason]

For wrenchguy though I think it would mostly be cosmetic, it's only the edges that have some wear / chips. Devcon is a better product than JB Weld. It doesn't shrink and it much harder, and has metal in the product...

Maybe you could use a solder with a high percentage of silver? I just don't know what would "stick" good in those gaps.

 

[FMC1959]

KM, If I understand what you are saying, it sounds like a nicer, more "elegant" looking solution, and probably much stronger. BUT, I can't speak for Wrenchguy, but most of us do not have the equipment and talent to do what you propose, so filler might be the best alternative.

 

[jakemac]

What about building it up with a weld, then grinding it flush ?

 

[va.grouseman]

A little Craftsman I just drug out to refurb.---Needs shield on the side.---3 1/2 jaws.

 

[Outlawmws]

Wrench guy, are you most concerned with the top interface, or the ends, or both?

DEpending on the depth there, maybe hot the top of the base jaws with a belt sander to clean them up slightly, and get more aggressive on the jaw caps the same way until you get where you want? It depends on how deep the mis-match is, and how much jw you want above the base jaws. I like the caps a bit proud.

I'm with KM on the two part filler in that area. A nick or ding outside the working area is probably fine with a dab of filler; that area will see a lot of pressure, and I'd be suspect of filler living long.

 

[balane]

This is probably the least used and most pristine old school bullet I've ever come across. Humidity and age got to the finish but the metal was exemplary. I really didn't have much to do here... other than maybe go to photography school. Honestly though, whoever ends up with this one is going to be really happy. No. 8350, 3.5" jaws, Dec. 1966, 36 pounds.

.

 

[Thrumcap]

Hi there! I found this beauty on my Saturday garage sale jaunt a couple weeks ago, in a barn near Lunenburg, NS.

Happily, it fit... no second trip ... and under the max weight for the engine deck lid. And it's in use already, restoration in the winter.





Anyone have some NOS pipe jaws for a Record 634?........nope?

Off to Wanted.......

Cheers
Thrumcap

 

[balane]

Wow! Now that is a Record! I love it. How long is the handle? Can't tell in your pics.

 

[Bill Ramsey]

This is probably the least used and most pristine old school bullet I've ever come across..

That's a beauty!

 

[wrenchguy]

thanks so far guys, i'm going to digest the comments. one thing i should have added is the pads are proud about 1/16" of the rough casting surface (like km's new pads look to the top surface of the static jaw). i'm going mount it to a i beam with tool tray similar to this one of jopickens. i'm going to use it.

 

[KMScott]

I just finished my first vise, Started with four Columbian's and wrapped this 604-1/2 M up tonight. I have much to learn, the easiest job on these vises is making all the hardware. I sure respect all you vise re-finishers. The Columbians are pretty nice for a light duty vise, if I wanted one of these for my own I would add a thrust needle bearings backed up by the set screwed bushing on the spindle, and tighten up the play like I did on this one by adding a thicker Copper Aluminum thrust washer. The play on this vise is very minimal, maybe 20 degrees. Well first one down 68 more to go.

 

[balane]

Great job Kevin! That looks amazing. You going to sell these on eBay? It's obvious you have a lot of work and materials into the vise.

.

 

[KMScott]

Thanks balane, going to sell all my vises using my website. The vises I have are all needing new jaws, handles, swivel clamps and some major repairs. So this is going to take a while but I do enjoy it.

 

[oldldh]

I gots to do it---


Reverend Scott---


Ya Dun Gud, Bubba!!!

 

[bigcaddy]

I just finished my first vise, Started with four Columbian's and wrapped this 604-1/2 M up tonight. I have much to learn, the easiest job on these vises is making all the hardware. I sure respect all you vise re-finishers. The Columbians are pretty nice for a light duty vise, if I wanted one of these for my own I would add a thrust needle bearings backed up by the set screwed bushing on the spindle, and tighten up the play like I did on this one by adding a thicker Copper Aluminum thrust washer. The play on this vise is very minimal, maybe 20 degrees. Well first one down 68 more to go.

That's looking good, KMS! I have that Columbian mounted on an outside weld table at my work. It's been through hell and back but still works like it should.

I'm looking forward to your next major project you finish

 

[jakemac]

Hi there! I found this beauty on my Saturday garage sale jaunt a couple weeks ago, in a barn near Lunenburg, NS.

Happily, it fit... no second trip ... and under the max weight for the engine deck lid. And it's in use already, restoration in the winter.

Anyone have some NOS pipe jaws for a Record 634?........nope?

Off to Wanted.......

Cheers
Thrumcap

Fretters is probably staring daggers at you right now from across the pond.
That monster is bigger than the engine in the go-kart you brought it home in !!

 

[unashamedlaborer]

That ugly pin sticking out is a taper pin for square alignment for regular use. That needs to come out, and its often a bear ( hence the vise grip teeth marks on the head of the taper...)

Actually those aren't vise grip marks..... They are teeth marks from a 24" rigid pipe wrench. NOT my finest moment.

 

[unashamedlaborer]

Outlaw is correct, I had experience pulling one of these Wilton pins that was really stuck. ended up drilling a relief hole before it finally was free. My first go around was welding a slide hammer on to the pin with my TIG. Even with this big chunk of brass slamming it, it still did not budge. I then drilled out a relief hole around a 1/2" and it came out. I measured Macklins 4" pin and came up with 2-1/2 degrees total or 1-1/4 degrees per side. His pin was .692 at the top and 1-1/8 length of taper. For Macklin it was safe to drill with a 9/16 drill bit. The taper figures out to be .100 smaller roughly. Lets hope you can get the pin out without drilling it or you will have to fab on. Good luck.

Well since I don't have access to a lathe to make another one.... I am grasping at straws to get this one out without too much further damage, pretty sure with some time and elbow grease I can fix the sin I already committed against it. I was thinking of baking it in the oven and then applying liquid nitrogen to the pin..... What do you think?

 

[Fretters]

Drill it out if it's that jammed. You can always make a suitable replacement easily enough with a bit of rod, a file and a bit of patience.

 

[unashamedlaborer]

That ugly pin sticking out is a taper pin for square alignment for regular use. That needs to come out, and its often a bear ( hence the vise grip teeth marks on the head of the taper...)

I know about the big taper pin in the top but lower in line with it in the side of the vise is a big dimple. At the very center there appears to be a pin or broken screw. Pretty small and hard for me to tell.

 

[Fretters]

Fetters is probably staring daggers at you right now from across the pond.

The fact that I've only ever seen three of what could be classed as my perfect design of vice, coupled with the fact that two of them are over the other side of the pond isn't somewhat gutting...






...he says whilst he skulks off to update his list of people to hunt down if he ever goes across the pond.

That's a hellishly nice vice you have there Thrumcap. Even across here those don't appear often.

 

[KMScott]

Well since I don't have access to a lathe to make another one.... I am grasping at straws to get this one out without too much further damage, pretty sure with some time and elbow grease I can fix the sin I already committed against it. I was thinking of baking it in the oven and then applying liquid nitrogen to the pin..... What do you think?

There is a chance that will work, you will have to make a funnel or something to capture the L Nitrogen, you know how that stuff bounces around when pouring. Here is my drawing that is in complete but it might be close to your pin just in case.

 

[unashamedlaborer]

There is a chance that will work, you will have to make a funnel or something to capture the L Nitrogen, you know how that stuff bounces around when pouring. Here is my drawing that is in complete but it might be close to your pin just in case.

Your awesome. Thanks for the drawing. I was thinking about the issue with the nitrogen..... Maybe I just need to buy a small lathe . If I have to pay someone to make one for me would you be interested?