How to add structural strength to my storage loft

[SBC350]

Hi,

Ive been looking at multiple post around GarageJournal and other sites thru google but I need help with my storage "loft".

Specs:
It is a bit under 23' wide and 48" deep.
All built using 2X6, and planning to install 5/8 or 3/4 plywood on top.

Just so you know, I will double the "front" 2X6. I used GRK Fasterners on the ledgers board.

Now I need some suggestions/tips to add some structural strength to it. I want to keep the floor free as I'm planning to a 4 posts lift down the road.

I was thinking of adding 2, 45degree bracket under the loft.
Or adding 2x4 or 2x6 in the truss, that will run perpendicular to the truss and attach a 2x6 from the front of the storage loft to the truss. But I know truss arent made for weight pulling from under.

As a side note, I am planning to put, regular household junk such as decoration, sports gear, offseason tires, kids toys. No engine block or anything too heavy on its own.

Thank you
Alex

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Rather than have 45* under, maybe use them up top from the junction of wall and ceiling. Could use ready rod or strapping/cable of suitable strength.

Richard

 

[Thumper68]

Just my opinion but the front board should be at least a 2x10 doubled or tripled with 3/4 inch plywood glued and bolted together. Then I would either set it in pockets in the wall on top of 2 or three jack studs at each end or if you don't want to open up the wall then set the ends on 4x4 posts.

Even if you aren't planning on putting heavy stuff up there the next guy might.

 

[BBC71Nova]

Take some allthread and use it to support the front from the ceiling. Go up in the attic and have the allthread go through some adequately sized lumber spreading load across a couple joists. Assuming the shelf runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists...

Had a friend build one like that in two diff garages and never had issue.

John

 

[txbonds]

I used a 22' glue lam beam for mine sitting atop 4x4 posts. It's like 13 2x4's laminated together and provides the strength for my whole loft which runs around 3 walls. Overkill probably but given the span it was the easiest option.

You can sort of see it here

 

[larry_g]

For me this picture shows what could be done. If you plan on any benches or cabinets, like the silver ones shown in the picture above, then make the end of the bench a post to support the mez or if planning cabinets then build them to support the mez or just slide in along side a post as the picture above shows them between the angle braces.

Surely you could find a place or two to add a support post that would not prevent the use of your lift. It may be the place that you drop air and power for use on the lift.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[theoldwizard1]

As a side note, I am planning to put, regular household junk such as decoration, sports gear, offseason tires, kids toys. No engine block or anything too heavy on its own.

You started out too heavy to begin with and now you have to support that extra weight ! 2x4 would have been fine, or possibly even 1x6 (pain because I don't think they make joist hangers for 1by). If you are 16" O.C. then 1/2" plywood is adequate. (They use 7/16" as roof decking and people walk on it.)

Run 45° knee braces out from the wall where there are studs. If you want real support, nail a 2x3 or 2x4 to the stud immediately under where the knee brace hits the wall down to the floor. Put a piece of PT 2x4 under this so that un-treated wood is not touching the concrete.

 

[SBC350]

Here is a little update on my progress.

I installed 1/2 plywood, and added 2x6 going in the attic attached to a 2x4x8 running perpendicular to the truss.

It is past midnight, so I will finish to other 2x6 and double-up the front 2x6.

Thank you for your tips!