Prybars and C.V. Drive Shafts

[Merkava_4]

2000 Buick LeSabre (H body I think )

The boots have been split for about 2 years and in the during that time the grease has be getting slung all over the engine compartment. I just want to change out both drive shafts before next wintertime hits because I hate working on cars in the cold.

My friend/neighbor down the street is one of those ASE master tech dudes. He says all I need to do is disconnect the lower ball joint to swing the rotor/hub around for that end - for the other end that goes into the transmission - take 2 prybars simultaneously at the 5:00 and 7:00 o'clock position and pry the drive shaft out of the transmission - then pull the other end out of the hub. It can't be that easy; what's missing?

Now for the fun part: What kind of prybars shall I to purchase for the job?



PS. My Firefox spell check doesn't like me spelling pry and bar as one word.

 

[Stanger]

I'm not sure how you replace them, but I'll suggest some prybars. You may not like the suggestion though... Cman Pros.

 

[vssjim]

just your basic 36" plastic handled prybar is what I use often.

 

[HolisticPerformance]

I have plenty luck the the prybars from this set. I don't think, in most situations, it requires anything special.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=8920&group_ID=1005

 

[Merkava_4]

I'm not sure how you replace them, but I'll suggest some prybars. You may not like the suggestion though... Cman Pros.

I have no problem getting C-MAN Pro prybars since they're made by Mayhew anyway. What length to get?

 

[Merkava_4]

just your basic 36" plastic handled prybar is what I use often.

This thing is gonna be up on jack stands - will I have room for 36 inch prybars at the 5:00 and 7:00 o'clock position?

 

[HolisticPerformance]

This thing is gonna be up on jack stands - will I have room for 36 inch prybars at the 5:00 and 7:00 o'clock position?

There really isn't a lot of force required. I mean, some times you can just pull the shafts out with your hand.

 

[vssjim]

well just use the longest you can get in the spot with sometimes I have used a plain old 3/8's 12" to 16" screwdriver, it just depends on how tight the clip is holding it in. Sometimes you have to get after it and other times you just pop it right out with almost no effort.

 

[Stanger]

I have no problem getting C-MAN Pro prybars since they're made by Mayhew anyway. What length to get?

Well, if you don't have any prybars, I'd get this kit:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...e=Hand+Tools,+General+Purpose&keyword=pry+bar

That gives you a nice selection of sizes, and you can use the 10" and 12" together by yourself.

 

[MAD]

I just want to change out both drive shafts before next wintertime hits because I hate working on cars in the cold.

Yeah, God forbid you have to do the job in a long sleave shirt.

 

[paramudduck]

I have had a few of them come out with just the weight of the shaft on them. Others you need the 36" models. In your situation most likely the 18" or so would do the job. Most of the time they pop out pretty easy.

Cold? You are saying you have cold out there?!!!? I was under vehicles in 10+ below weather this winter. It gets harder and harder every year.

 

[Merkava_4]

Yeah, God forbid you have to do the job in a long sleave shirt.

Cold? You are saying you have cold out there?!!!? I was under vehicles in 10+ below weather this winter. It gets harder and harder every year.

I'm not winterized like you guys back East........+40F and I'm diving for a blanket.

 

[MisterCMK]

I'm not winterized like you guys back East........+40F and I'm diving for a blanket.

+40F and I'm driving with the windows down in a t-shirt.

 

[HolisticPerformance]

+40F and I'm driving with the windows down in a t-shirt.

You beat me to it - Walmart starts putting the kites on the front display on 45 degree days.

Welcome to Kentucky - Arctic Winters and Tropical Summers. And if you don't like the weather, just wait till tomorrow.

 

[tatra]

ok, we got the process down, now how about the quality of shafts?......merk is a quality type of guy........i heard rebuilt shafts are basically left and right tulips, spiders etc. swicthed to run the opposite direction......in other words, don't be surprised to hear bad things when going in reverse at an extreme turns....because of this i have used brand new parts on personal projects and yet no complaints from the frugal minded " friends" i have helped in the past......comments?........last time i replaced a shaft was over 5 years ago........had real wheel drive since then..........

 

[HolisticPerformance]

Are the joints themselves bad? Can just the boot be replaced?


Going ACdelco?

 

[tatra]

first line was boots split for two years.......do the math.........they need to be replaced..........

 

[Merkava_4]

tatra........are the rebuilt units from NAPA alright?

 

[MAD]

ok, we got the process down, now how about the quality of shafts?......

I picked up a rebuilt CV half shaft for my wife's Jetta the other day. I was doing the front struts when I remembered that the boot had been split for quite a while. I had a lifetime warranty on the shaft so I just exchanged it. When I went to grease the inner joint, I noticed that one of the balls was missing! It still had the factory zip ties holding the joint straight so I know it came from the re-builder that way.

At least it was a balmy 40 degree day and I had an extra used shaft stashed away. Not like the heater core I did in the driveway last month when it was around zero out there. That kinda sucked.

 

[tatra]

merk, as stated in the previous post, it depends on the rebuilder that is contrcted to do the work........some good, some, the bottom line is all that matters...............by rebuilding the cv joints yourself, you know what you got 100%.........course rebuilt unit is probably cheaper, and quicker, not to mention cleaner [ might dirty up one of your bread skids] but more than likly you won't be having to change it out in the xams season with a blanky.....................do you have the tools to crimp the boots?.........as i have said b4, friends have had good luck with rebuilts, but it is recon parts and recon is sometimes as dicey as used............

 

[tatra]

mad.... why would you be greasing an exchange joint?.........good catch mind you but i don't understand the reason you were "regreasing[?] a rebuilt shaft assembly?

 

[MAD]

mad.... why would you be greasing an exchange joint?.........good catch mind you but i don't understand the reason you were "regreasing[?] a rebuilt shaft assembly?

The inner joint on that style is open and is sealed when the shaft is bolted to the drive flange on the transaxle. They are often sold with the inner joint dry or partially greased and come with a tube of CV grease.

 

[tatra]

never worked on a volks so i learned something new.........thanx for the explanation pal...........i love this place.........

 

[Merkava_4]

course rebuilt unit is probably cheaper, and quicker, not to mention cleaner [ might dirty up one of your bread skids] but more than likly you won't be having to change it out in the xams season with a blanky.....................

tatra........do you recommend a particular boot crimping tool?

 

[WVU Tuba Dale]

Usually I take the outer tie rod loose so i can swing the whole strut assembly out of the way and take the outer part of the axle out first. The end that goes into the transmission sometimes has a spring clip that goes around the splines. Make sure the axle is seated properly in the transmission or else you are going to leak everywhere. Like stated above, sometimes it doesnt take a lot of force to remove them, and i have taken them out with one pry bar before. Good luck.

 

[Merkava_4]

Like stated above, sometimes it doesnt take a lot of force to remove them, and i have taken them out with one pry bar before.

Would 17 inch long (overall length) pry bars be long enough?

 

[tatra]

sorry, merk, can't recommend one as the one i have/had was some import thing from princess auto [our version of hf], that i haven't seen for over 3 years,...............probably loaned out?........shows how much i valued it..........

 

[Merkava_4]

tatra........what about "New" NAPA drive shafts; would they be alright? They're charging $90 each, but I get to keep my O.E. ones.

 

[walrus]

: I just want to change out both drive shafts before next wintertime hits because I hate working on cars in the cold.
:

That ain't right

 

[tatra]

if they are new components and no core exchange, and an acceptable warranty, might be the way to go.........save the cash from having to buy a clamping tool and hassle of rebuilding the assembly yourself, etc........just don't know the quality of napa really...............anyone else wanna comment on napa?............and do you plan on replacing the seals?......i would..........

 

[Merkava_4]

That ain't right

What's not right?

 

[jimmycrackcorn]

GMs are easy, never had a problem, passenger side comes out with a long flat punch and hammer comes out with just one tap. The drivers side comes out with a prybar against the case, since you'll be using jack stands, set the longest pry bar that can fit so its straight up with the floor, and one kick it should pop out.

 

[Mike83]

Merk - Autozone NEW halfshafts are cheaper than rebuilt units even before the core charge. Go figure that one out. For 2002 Impala - $60 new. LLT warranty, too.

 

[walrus]

What's not right?

You thinking its cold out there in winter. I just changed the oil on my service truck on frozen ground and I don't even think its cold out. Its in the lower 30s, heat wave time

 

[DynoDale]

tatra........do you recommend a particular boot crimping tool?

I'd recommend this one: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31562

 

[Chris Adams]

On popping half shafts I've had them come out while I was pulling the other end free, had them need each size of prybar up to my 6 foot monster, and had them refuse to come out with a prybar, including my six footer. Had to drive them out from the back with a BIG hammer.
The clip can be rusted in.
But usually not a problem with even cheap prybars. We use HF black handle ones. Never bent, broke one yet. Used and misused them for years.


Never had a problem with rebuilt shaft. Never lost a single one we replaced.
Sure, anything made by man may have a defect, but really not likely. They ain't rocket science.

 

[Delray]

I use this tool to reband with the Band-it type bands. I like it because I can replace a slipped band with the axle on the car. It's tight but can be done. Sounds like you need new joints if yours were open for 2 years. The axles come out pretty easy, usually just a sharp tug. A spring ring in the trans locks it in place.http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5138 Try this method. Loosen axle retaining nut so it turns freely and make sure splines will slide on hub. Turn axle nut back up to hub but don't tighten. Separate ball joint and give the knuckle a tug toward you. The trans end of the axle will usually drop out. JUST WATCH OUT FOR SENSOR WIRES AND/OR HOSES. If it does not come easy go with the pry bars.

 

[kythri]

NAPA CV shafts are great quality, and affordable. I've used them in my Daytonas/Lasers, my SHO and I've got a pair in the front of my Explorer right now.

 

[WVU Tuba Dale]

Would 17 inch long (overall length) pry bars be long enough?

I think it could be done.

 

[paramudduck]

That should get the job done fine! I've used the little shorties at times to do the job.

Of course you may hit the one from hades that needs a shape charge to get it loose...