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Anyone use Muriatic Acid to Flush Radiators...?

kevin47

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I have a 1978 Toyota Forklift that I needed a radiator for, but guess what...? The radiator is no longer produced and a re-core job runs over $900 dollars, according to one shop...Now, I hear Muriatic Acid for pools is supposed to work great as long as the radiator is out of the vehicle...Any Comments...?
 
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Dale B

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I use the Behr Concrete Etch from H.D. It eats rust & scale pretty quick , doesn't seem to hurt brass. I've done 3 tractor radiators and a five gallon bucket of wrenches . Got to keep an eye on the wrenches , takes off chrome if left in too long .
 

davidlee

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I owned a pool business for 52 years and I would not use muriatic acid for a radiator flush. It will eat up both copper and aluminum. Most radiator flushes use oxalic acid. I will clean up the corrossion but not the metal. The only way I would use muriatic is if it were inhibited with rodine and I doubt you will be able to find it that way.
 
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kevin47

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Sounds like good advise from someone who would know...But, then why do so many use it...?

Oh, I heard your supposed to dilute it, too....
 

38Chevy454

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I owned a pool business for 52 years and I would not use muriatic acid for a radiator flush. It will eat up both copper and aluminum. Most radiator flushes use oxalic acid. I will clean up the corrossion but not the metal. The only way I would use muriatic is if it were inhibited with rodine and I doubt you will be able to find it that way.

In the old days the heavy duty radiator flush you could buy at the auto parts store was oxalic acid. It comes as granules. No matter what acid you may end up using, make sure to neutralize it with baking soda or similar.

I will say that I have used diluted muriatic to clean out the passages of an old engine before, but not for cleaning out radiator.
 

rsanter

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How about getting a generic radiator like they use for racing and just fab a couple of brackets to mount it

What I don't understand is if you think you can clean it out without making it leak, then why can't the shop take off the tanks, rod out the radiator, clean it up and reattach the tanks.
If it's too far gone for them to do that then I would think the acid would kill the thing

Bob
 
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kevin47

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I've thought of finding something in the generic style but remember this is a heavy duty radiator...Hey, your from California...When was the last time you SAW a radiator shop...?

The thing doesn't have a any holes/green patina that I can tell...And it's a pretty tight fit...Be pretty hard to find something that'd fit...
 

brownbagg

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why not just find another radiator shop. I can get a complete new radiator built for $200
 
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kevin47

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why not just find another radiator shop. I can get a complete new radiator built for $200
It would be some kind of custom job...Sounds as though the right core is not even still produced...

Besides, this is California...Can't recall the last radiator shop I saw in these here parts lol
 
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38Chevy454

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CLR is phosphoric acid I believe. agree that EPA and overzealous CA regulations have just about got rid of all radiator shops in CA.
 
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kevin47

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CLR is phosphoric acid I believe. agree that EPA and overzealous CA regulations have just about got rid of all radiator shops in CA.
Is that a Ford COE you have there...?

Looking on google it appears Muriatic is the way to go...The only ones kinda scared off are the ones who haven't tried it...
 

ZRX61

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There's a great radiator shop in Lancaster Ca :)

As for your problem, just hit the salvage yards & find one the right size. Then fab up whatever bracketry you need.
 

Modern Jess

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Lotek

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Lots of radiator shops still around, I'd get a second opinion, you can still get 2 stage radiator flush here as well. That's where I would start before playing mad scientist with concoctions from the interweb. If passages are plugged, no amount of flushing is going to help. Stanton Radiator deals in h/d and industrial, good people.
 
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volaredon

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"Iron Out" IIRC is Oxalic acid, anyway have used this as well as SNO-BOL (not at the same time in the same radiator)
 
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kevin47

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Thanks guys, I'll pull the radiator today or tomorrow...Probably call around and see what can be done...I'm sure there are "clogs" because of the way it "burps" once the thermostat opens with the cap-off...The water pump pushing water onto the radiator faster than it can flow thru...I guess.
 

kursplat

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It would be some kind of custom job...Sounds as though the right core is not even still produced...

Besides, this is California...Can't recall the last radiator shop I saw in these here parts lol

:lol: you need to come south, lot's of rad shops here in LA.

go to a junk yard and get something out of the newest small car you can, one that has the connections as close to what you need, and fab some brakets

good luck
 

supra90turbo

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I would suggest a heavy duty cleaner such as Muriatic or Oxalic acid. Just be aware that either acid is powerful enough that it requires neutralization after use, however most times it won't unplug a radiator too far gone because it can't flow in there to get at all the blockage.
That's not saying don't try, but it is likely too far gone at this point.

Also; to make a suggestion, if not already equipped, the forklift should be equipped with a coolant filter once this is all done with and the radiator is once again operational.

There are a number of different ways one can go about this.
"Real" coolant filter heads are silly expensive, as they have a special thread. (11/16-16) However, you can use a marine fuel/water separator head, which has the same thread and use a Wix 24069 or equivalent. Donaldson/NAPA 4070 is another good choice.

I personally use a Summit SUM-G4985 oil filter relocation kit along with a standard Toyota oil filter on my Supra because that's what I had, and it's easy to service.

"Real" coolant filters are inherently better, but something is always better than nothing.
After one year of service, I opened the filter and was impressed with the amount of junk it picked up.

Total cost invested for me was about $40 including hose and fittings. Plenty worth it.
I run it inline with my throttle body coolant hoses, this setup is to be used as a bypass filter, mine is plumbed with -6AN hoses.

::edit:: also, make sure to get a filter without coolant additives built in.
 
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BC1

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Any radiator shop should be able to build a custom one for under 300 and should be able to recore or repair yours for under 150. Not worth messing with it yourself at all.
 

SGKent

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I used a radiator shop here in Sacramento several times in the last few years. Just look up in the yellow pages under radiator. Problem is that people don't give them enough business for the younger generation to want to do the work and the old timers are retiring with no one interested in buying their business. Same in so many trades.
 
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kevin47

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Thanks, guys...If I hadn't mentioned it already... I only expect to use the lift a couple of hours a month ( and a few minutes at a time ) so I don't know how much $$$ I want to add to my investment...
 

unkamort

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It would be some kind of custom job...Sounds as though the right core is not even still produced...

Besides, this is California...Can't recall the last radiator shop I saw in these here parts lol

You might give Alouis radiator a call... 415.923.1446. Coupla blocks off Fell on Divisadro in 'da city. The old guy that did the repair work retired, but the equipment is still there. Ask'em if you can get it 'boiled and roded'.
 

Uncle Dave

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I live about 20 miles from the OP. No shortage of radiator shops around here. Most will build to your specs. Dave in Castro Valley
 

g3bill

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:) OK, I just cleaned my 82 toyota pu radiator with muriatic acid, think it 14.5% from HD for pools. Used 2 - 1 1/4" rubber plugs from hardware store to plug inlet and outlet and filled acid through the filler opening. I started slow with about 20-30% water added and soaked for 5-8 hours 3x and dumped it each time to see whats coming loose. dumped it into a cheap plastic container then put it back into a 1 gal jug to put back in radiator. On the 4th fill I used fresh acid without diluting (14.5%) and left it over night, after 12 or more hours and found a small leak at bottom of a tube, it was already there as I was loosing water but didn't know from where and radiator was clean of scale? I used Baking soda after last 2 fill and flushes. on last one flushed it with baking soda about 3x and let it set 10-30 min each time till there were no bubbles. I soldered the pin hole with a soldering gun and borrowed a pressure test kit from Auto Zone , tested it to 15lbs thats 2lbs over the cap rating and no leaks. The cleaning removed all but slight traces of scale. Only do this on brass/copper radiators not aluminum. Baking soda I used about 1/2 box in a 1gal jug with hot water to mix and disolve, I shook it before pouring each time. I was very satisfied with results. I will be using 'Rad-Scale-Kleen' to keep it free of scale in future.
On exterior I cleaned with CLR type cleaner from 99 cent store and spryed the area along top and bottom with a rust inhibitor then black semi gloss paint to seal that and coat the fins.

I was told Radiator must be removed from vehical to avoid damage to gaskets and possibly water pump

Keep water close at hand in a pail to flush hands and eyes just incase. If your not a cluts you should be ok imo. Like with any chemical be careful and dont rush it.

I forgot to take before pics? but it was bad with heavy scale build up from over 10 years.
 

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SALIV8

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I'm a bit confused on why you must be able to go to a radiator shop?

Ups and usps work well anywhere in the country. There are hundreds of shops that will build custom, for not a ton of cash... It's easy to call around and give dimensions and get quotes.

Then once you're set on a shop just mail the radiator you have to them and they will copy it. Easy peasy.
 

gorilla

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It would be some kind of custom job...Sounds as though the right core is not even still produced...

Besides, this is California...Can't recall the last radiator shop I saw in these here parts lol

Dutton Radiator just under the highway 12 and us 101 overpass in Santa Rosa Ca.
 

g3bill

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I'm in North Hollywood and yes thats California ;-(. There all over the place here, 2 Radiator shops less than a mile from me? Think its mostly local battery rebuild shops that were shut down in Ca. never mind all that great oil base paint I have to go to other states to purchase:(
 
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BJ42LX

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:) On the 4th fill I used fresh acid without diluting (14.5%) and left it over night, after 12 or more hours ...

Are you sure you had real muratic acid?

IME at full concentration it should have eaten a couple pounds of sludge in a few minutes. Muriatic acid is powerful and nasty stuff.

Anyway, the rad looks great!
 

fteufert

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I used vinegar to clean my 1982 Trans Am radiator. It had calcium buildup. I laid it down flat, filled it and let it sit for a day. I drained it, rinsed it out, and did it again.

On day 2, I used a power washer to finish cleaning it out.

I had my doubts, but it worked.
 

g3bill

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I used vinegar and did nothing much for me so went to the muriatic acid, maybe I had a poor quality brand, would that matter?. Also i didn't leave it in long enough I guess but will always use the M-acid from now on anyway as it worked for me. It didn't seem to effect the metal other than discolor a bit. Muriatic acid at that strength isn't going to do much quick. I get it on my hands now and then and takes quite a few seconds to feel it start to burn then wash it off, no issues for me. I read you can get it stronger like 35% but I wouldn't use it, no need. I'm trying this Rad-Scale-Kleen for a year and see how it works to keep system free of scale. Supposed to remove scale and hold it in solution in the anti-freeze till next flush, its on the internet if interested.

My radiator was plugged pretty bad, got at the red on temp-gauge doing regular driving in mild weather so had no option other than cleaning it out quikly. Had to drive 30-35mph up the 15:eek: With radiator cap off I couldn't notice flowing water so thats bad...I lov air cooled motors :)
 
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Tim The Tool Man

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I'm reviving an old thread from the dead! I have slowly come to the conclusion that the answers to all life's unusual questions can apparently be found here on the Garage journal! I was searching Google wondering if I could use muratic acid to clean the radiator in my new to me 2004 e450. Anyhow I decided against that method. The radiator had a small crack in the plastic tank which I hopefully repaired with some JB weld, a scrap of aluminium window screen, and radiator leak stop. I was just thinking that since I had the coolant system drained I ought to try and clean it. It wasn't obstructed or anything so I just opted for a water flush clean up...
 

gregtwojeeps

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I also worked the passed 15 years while one of my duties was maintaining the Jr. Olympic sized pool using acid for its water PH balance. I HATE muriatic/hydrochloric acid. I would rather run through hell with gasoline drawers on, that deal with that stuff again. JMO
 

fsae0607

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I also worked the passed 15 years while one of my duties was maintaining the Jr. Olympic sized pool using acid for its water PH balance. I HATE muriatic/hydrochloric acid. I would rather run through hell with gasoline drawers on, that deal with that stuff again. JMO


Ha, me too! I use dry acid for my pool. Muriatic acid is nasty stuff.
 
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