'Hidden' gun safes?

[ddawg16]

I 'think' I'm somewhat qualified to comment on this topic.

1. First off, the best safe is the safe that no one can find.

2. The next best safe is a safe that no one can access to rip out. If the door is the only thing accessible then it's pretty hard to use a crowbar on it or toss a chain around it and drag it out. Remember, dirt bags don't care how much damage they do getting what they want.

3. Safes also protect your guns from fire. You can drastically increase the fire rating by putting 2-3 sheets of Type X 5/8" drywall around it.

4. In California, if your gun gets stolen, unless it's registered to you, you can't have it listed as stolen. Basically, it's like trying to have a car listed as stolen but you can't prove you are the registered owner. Now, I know there are going to be some comments about the evils of gun registration. For those worried about the 'guberment' coming to get your guns....not going to happen. You are going to have a hard time finding any cops that will do it. Sorry, but I'm not taking a gun away from Joe Blow citizen just because someone thinks we should be like Chicago.

5. In the very unlikely event that 'guberment' wants to be like Chicago, see #1 above.

6. I just had some training with a locksmith. I will be replacing my 'digital' gun safe real soon. I was shocked to see how fast he could over ride the digital part. Combination or key is the way to go. On the key versions, hide an extra key somewhere.

On a more serious note....I'm glad to see some of you taking a gun safe serious. It kills me to see how some people like to stash guns around the house. All your really doing is making it easier for bad guys go get guns. The simple reality is, the likely hood of needing a gun in your house is really slim. Home invasion robberies are the exception. Especially in cities that do not have gun restrictions. Most bad guys would rather go in your house when you are not home. In the cases where you hear about home invasion, in over 75% of the cases, there is more to it than just a random home invasion/robbery.

If you guys will properly secure your weapons, you dry up a significant source of weapons for criminals.

 

[bczygan]

I 'think' I'm somewhat qualified to comment on this topic.

1. First off, the best safe is the safe that no one can find.

2. The next best safe is a safe that no one can access to rip out. If the door is the only thing accessible then it's pretty hard to use a crowbar on it or toss a chain around it and drag it out. Remember, dirt bags don't care how much damage they do getting what they want.

3. Safes also protect your guns from fire. You can drastically increase the fire rating by putting 2-3 sheets of Type X 5/8" drywall around it.

4. In California, if your gun gets stolen, unless it's registered to you, you can't have it listed as stolen. Basically, it's like trying to have a car listed as stolen but you can't prove you are the registered owner. Now, I know there are going to be some comments about the evils of gun registration. For those worried about the 'guberment' coming to get your guns....not going to happen. You are going to have a hard time finding any cops that will do it. Sorry, but I'm not taking a gun away from Joe Blow citizen just because someone thinks we should be like Chicago.

5. In the very unlikely event that 'guberment' wants to be like Chicago, see #1 above.

6. I just had some training with a locksmith. I will be replacing my 'digital' gun safe real soon. I was shocked to see how fast he could over ride the digital part. Combination or key is the way to go. On the key versions, hide an extra key somewhere.

On a more serious note....I'm glad to see some of you taking a gun safe serious. It kills me to see how some people like to stash guns around the house. All your really doing is making it easier for bad guys go get guns. The simple reality is, the likely hood of needing a gun in your house is really slim. Home invasion robberies are the exception. Especially in cities that do not have gun restrictions. Most bad guys would rather go in your house when you are not home. In the cases where you hear about home invasion, in over 75% of the cases, there is more to it than just a random home invasion/robbery.

If you guys will properly secure your weapons, you dry up a significant source of weapons for criminals.

I live in Detroit, the city proper.

Not the best neighborhood, nor the worst.

Have had a couple break-ins, an attempted one, and an attempted robbery on the sidewalk next door.

Any kind of gun would not have helped whatsoever.

All happened during the day, and break-ins when not at home.

And I don't know anyone that I would trust with a gun, especially not me or my wife. I haven't been that good of a husband.

I sleep like the dead, so a robber would have to wake me up and wait til I was awake enough to find my gun.

A gun is a magnet for thieves. So you can't advertise it as a warning not to come here. Having one places a responsibility upon the owner, that I do not want to bear.

So in my judgement, having a gun provides much more danger to me and mine, then additional safety.

So my need to hide a gun safe, and still have it close, is solved.

I'm trying to visualize what other places in the country, are so much worse than here, that it would be necessary.....

Bill

 

[SALIV8]

ddawg- were allowed to conceal carry in shitcago.

the constitution finally made its way here..

 

[Rescue Wagon]

When I had an alarm system installed in my house (mostly for the smoke detectors), I had them install a motion sensor and smoke detector in my garage. Then I had it configured so it is active in both the Home and Away modes.

 

[michaelrc51]

I 'think' I'm somewhat qualified to comment on this topic.

1. First off, the best safe is the safe that no one can find.

2. The next best safe is a safe that no one can access to rip out. If the door is the only thing accessible then it's pretty hard to use a crowbar on it or toss a chain around it and drag it out. Remember, dirt bags don't care how much damage they do getting what they want.

3. Safes also protect your guns from fire. You can drastically increase the fire rating by putting 2-3 sheets of Type X 5/8" drywall around it.

4. In California, if your gun gets stolen, unless it's registered to you, you can't have it listed as stolen. Basically, it's like trying to have a car listed as stolen but you can't prove you are the registered owner. Now, I know there are going to be some comments about the evils of gun registration. For those worried about the 'guberment' coming to get your guns....not going to happen. You are going to have a hard time finding any cops that will do it. Sorry, but I'm not taking a gun away from Joe Blow citizen just because someone thinks we should be like Chicago.

5. In the very unlikely event that 'guberment' wants to be like Chicago, see #1 above.

6. I just had some training with a locksmith. I will be replacing my 'digital' gun safe real soon. I was shocked to see how fast he could over ride the digital part. Combination or key is the way to go. On the key versions, hide an extra key somewhere.

On a more serious note....I'm glad to see some of you taking a gun safe serious. It kills me to see how some people like to stash guns around the house. All your really doing is making it easier for bad guys go get guns. The simple reality is, the likely hood of needing a gun in your house is really slim. Home invasion robberies are the exception. Especially in cities that do not have gun restrictions. Most bad guys would rather go in your house when you are not home. In the cases where you hear about home invasion, in over 75% of the cases, there is more to it than just a random home invasion/robbery.

If you guys will properly secure your weapons, you dry up a significant source of weapons for criminals.

There are many different kinds of electronic safe locks which most can not easily be bypassed. There is one model most commonly used that is easily bypassed, they are not all the same. Electronic safe locks are used in many places and also meet DOD specs.

If you want security all you have to do is buy a REAL safe. Trust me, a correctly secured decent safe is not something you can pry open. Of course it won't be cheap but if you are serious about it.....
I have seen plenty of attempted break ins on real safes and not one successful attempt. Most people have no clue and then there are the people who have a clue but still try unsuccessfully.

I could go on being I am a safe technician but I will leave it at that.
Any questions, feel free to ask.

 

[dj_110]

If you're building it in like in some of the first posts, why not put a false back in the cabinet that covers the whole safe? You could have shelves in there to hold paint cans, etc. peg board for tools, etc. and then just have a hidden latch that opens that whole back as a door. If some loser broke in, they may get some tools, but not the good stuff hidden in the back. Also on the outside you could cover the whole thing with drywall and paint to match the wall so that it only looks like the whole cabinet is only the depth of the false compartment. This would work best in a corner of the room.

 

[Wuaname]

There are many different kinds of electronic safe locks which most can not easily be bypassed. There is one model most commonly used that is easily bypassed, "...".............

I could go on being I am a safe technician but I will leave it at that.
Any questions, feel free to ask.

Can you give us some suggestion a specific brand ? I am looking to get a safe for the new place. Small, big enough for maybe 6-7 handguns, and keep a fe important docs...

I have seen some people that bolt them to the floor inside a closet...

 

[George in Rancho Cordova]

On a similar note, all of my ammo cans & pistol boxes go to and from the car in a variety of cloth bags from grocery (and other) stores. Just a bit of "urban camouflage".

 

[michaelrc51]

Can you give us some suggestion a specific brand ? I am looking to get a safe for the new place. Small, big enough for maybe 6-7 handguns, and keep a fe important docs...



I have seen some people that bolt them to the floor inside a closet...

Check out Gardall. Look at the 1812 model and they make them in one and two hour fire ratings. If that isn't big enough look at the other model in that lineup.
They are real safes without spending a ton of $$$$$.

If you find one you like shoot me a PM, I can probably save you some money.

 

[Wuaname]

Check out Gardall. Look at the 1812 model and they make them in one and two hour fire ratings. If that isn't big enough look at the other model in that lineup.
They are real safes without spending a ton of $$$$$.

If you find one you like shoot me a PM, I can probably save you some money.

I will take a look, thanks. I decided it will be something I will bolt to the floor inside my bedroom closet; under 24" tall, not too big, just enough for a few files, and some hand guns. I am thinking I will store the guns out of the holsters, no sense otherwise.

 

[Nemesis88]

I've spent a lot of time researching safes for myself as well. One item which surprised me, but probably shouldn't have is that a truly qualified thief can get into any safe. Safes are not meant to truly keep your valuables safe forever, that unfortunately is impossible. They are meant to buy time. The biggest item working against a thief is time. This is why professional jeweler safes (the unbelievably expensive ones) are measured under ratings such as TL-15 and TL-30. The number represents the number of minutes it takes for an extremely knowledgeable thief to break in. Yup, 30 minutes for safes that new cost ten to thirty times that of the safes most of us will be looking at. Here are roughly the definitions of the two:

TL-15 rating have all passed standardized tests defined in UL© Standard 687 using the same tools and usually the same group of testing engineers. The label requires that the safe be constructed of 1 inch solid steel or equivalent. The label means that the safe has been tested for a net working time of 15 minutes using "...common hand tools, drills, punches, hammers, and pressure applying devices." Net working time means "simply when a tool comes off the safe the clock stops". There are over fifty different types of attacks that can be used to gain entrance into the safe. Usually they will try only 2 or 3 based on what they know about the product, and they know a lot.

TL-30 - The tests given for this rating are essentially the same as the TL-15 tests except for, you guessed it, the net working time. They get 30 minutes and a few more tools to help them gain entrance. Keep in mind these engineers have the manufacturing blueprints and can disassemble the safe being tested before the test begins to see how it works. They know their stuff.

In comparison, here is a video of what a non-skilled thief can do with an average gun safe (watch the "Security on Sale" video on the page"):

http://www.graffundersafes.com/gallery.html

The part that I had to realize is that I live in the middle of nowhere and will not have "professional" safe-crackers trying to rob my house. Still, that being said, because I live in the middle of nowhere the thief has much more time on his side. Because of this, and as many have pointed out, the best defense is a safe which they cannot find. I have gone with a run of the mill gun safe for fire rating and to keep children out and simply made it very hard to find, thus buying time. Also, I am adding a very cheap safe which will be in plain sight with low dollar valuables in it. Most thieves will not think there are two safes, so after finding the first, their job is done.

When planning your safe setup out remember that any safe can be broken into, you are simply trying to make it take as long as possible to find and get into extending the chance of them getting caught. Also, a good security system goes a long way, but even those are not fool proof.

For reference, the following is a chart of recommended safe security levels based on the value of what you will be storing inside of it:

http://www.graffundersafes.com/ratings/index.html

 

[glockman]

My safe is part of the foundation of the house. Has a vault door with 8 1" diameter pins, rebar in the concrete every 6" with 8" of concrete on top. The door also has a manual 5 digit combo lock. It's as safe as I could make it but still, if an oceans 11 crew wants your stuff, they'll get it. Tweekers and common thieves is what you are trying to deter. I don't lose any sleep with my setup.

 

[michaelrc51]

I've spent a lot of time researching safes for myself as well. One item which surprised me, but probably shouldn't have is that a truly qualified thief can get into any safe. Safes are not meant to truly keep your valuables safe forever, that unfortunately is impossible. They are meant to buy time. The biggest item working against a thief is time. This is why professional jeweler safes (the unbelievably expensive ones) are measured under ratings such as TL-15 and TL-30. The number represents the number of minutes it takes for an extremely knowledgeable thief to break in. Yup, 30 minutes for safes that new cost ten to thirty times that of the safes most of us will be looking at. Here are roughly the definitions of the two:



TL-15 rating have all passed standardized tests defined in UL[emoji767] Standard 687 using the same tools and usually the same group of testing engineers. The label requires that the safe be constructed of 1 inch solid steel or equivalent. The label means that the safe has been tested for a net working time of 15 minutes using "...common hand tools, drills, punches, hammers, and pressure applying devices." Net working time means "simply when a tool comes off the safe the clock stops". There are over fifty different types of attacks that can be used to gain entrance into the safe. Usually they will try only 2 or 3 based on what they know about the product, and they know a lot.



TL-30 - The tests given for this rating are essentially the same as the TL-15 tests except for, you guessed it, the net working time. They get 30 minutes and a few more tools to help them gain entrance. Keep in mind these engineers have the manufacturing blueprints and can disassemble the safe being tested before the test begins to see how it works. They know their stuff.



In comparison, here is a video of what a non-skilled thief can do with an average gun safe (watch the "Security on Sale" video on the page"):



http://www.graffundersafes.com/gallery.html



The part that I had to realize is that I live in the middle of nowhere and will not have "professional" safe-crackers trying to rob my house. Still, that being said, because I live in the middle of nowhere the thief has much more time on his side. Because of this, and as many have pointed out, the best defense is a safe which they cannot find. I have gone with a run of the mill gun safe for fire rating and to keep children out and simply made it very hard to find, thus buying time. Also, I am adding a very cheap safe which will be in plain sight with low dollar valuables in it. Most thieves will not think there are two safes, so after finding the first, their job is done.



When planning your safe setup out remember that any safe can be broken into, you are simply trying to make it take as long as possible to find and get into extending the chance of them getting caught. Also, a good security system goes a long way, but even those are not fool proof.



For reference, the following is a chart of recommended safe security levels based on the value of what you will be storing inside of it:



http://www.graffundersafes.com/ratings/index.html

Yes, a jewelers safe is usually a TRTL30x6 or TRTL60. The latter are very uncommon but they are out there.
I didn't mention these because they are way to expensive, they are only used in jewelers, control drug safes, and real high security areas.
Just to give you an idea, that rating means that no matter what you do you won't get into it within the designated time frame. Sure, you could take a demo saw and start cutting holes in a safe but it is much harder than you think to break into safes and especially a TRTL rated safe. Also, if you cut open a safe with a demo saw you will destroy the stuff inside, especially the paper stuff[emoji4]
I can break into a Sentry safe in 2 minutes. A TRTL will on average take 3-4 hours and go through 15-20 special drill bits. I have specialized equipment and years of knowledge doing this. There are other types of devices built into safes called relockers which will cause a lot of extra time for someone who doesn't know what they are doing.

My biggest concern of a safe for most people is to spend their money wisely. A decent safe should have atleast 5 active bolts and atleast 1 per side and has to be of decent construction. And consider the size of the bolts. Basically the more ACTIVE bolts, the better. You won't be able to pry open a decent safe, even if it is not a TRTL rated safe. Also, stick with a mechanical lock, the decent electronic locks cost a few $$$$$. Of course the construction of the safe is the most important factor.

I could go on but those are the basics I would reccomend for people wanting something under $1k that is actually considered a safe.

 

[michaelrc51]

My safe is part of the foundation of the house. Has a vault door with 8 1" diameter pins, rebar in the concrete every 6" with 8" of concrete on top. The door also has a manual 5 digit combo lock. It's as safe as I could make it but still, if an oceans 11 crew wants your stuff, they'll get it. Tweekers and common thieves is what you are trying to deter. I don't lose any sleep with my setup.

Sounds like a decent safe. Is it an AMSEC?

 

[glockman]

Sounds like a decent safe. Is it an AMSEC?

No idea. The door was made by a friend who used to work for a major safe manufacturer. The rest is just the house foundation with more steel.

 

[michaelrc51]

No idea. The door was made by a friend who used to work for a major safe manufacturer. The rest is just the house foundation with more steel.

The door is a piece of steel?

 

[glockman]

It's steel rolled to fit inside the channel iron poured into the foundation. It's 3/8 plate with all the internals that drive the pins attached to the back.

 

[michaelrc51]

It's steel rolled to fit inside the channel iron poured into the foundation. It's 3/8 plate with all the internals that drive the pins attached to the back.

Sounds good.
Personally the only thing I would worry about is that electronic lock. It depends on the model but some are spring loaded, meaning you could push the bolt back in with something. Your door being 3/8" steel can be drilled pretty easily. Depending on the lock, I could get in there with a well placed 1/4" hole and I am in the safe in 10 minutes.
Not trying to scare you or say you should change the lock but just letting you know what is possible IF it is a model lock with a spring loaded bolt.

This is my profession so I don't know how many people are running around with knowledge about safes like I have.

Take it as you want.....just here to help.

 

[glockman]

I guess I wasn't clear. It's an analog dial combo lock but u like a standard dial, it takes 5 numbers to open with an unusual sequence, not CW to first number, then past the second CW then stop on the third.

 

[michaelrc51]

I guess I wasn't clear. It's an analog dial combo lock but u like a standard dial, it takes 5 numbers to open with an unusual sequence, not CW to first number, then past the second CW then stop on the third.

Sounds like a Mas Hamilton lock

If that is the case you are ok.
A pic would help, now you have interested me?
It would help if your buddy put some hard plate in front of the lock

 

[Jay Sco]

My safe is part of the foundation of the house. Has a vault door with 8 1" diameter pins, rebar in the concrete every 6" with 8" of concrete on top. The door also has a manual 5 digit combo lock. It's as safe as I could make it but still, if an oceans 11 crew wants your stuff, they'll get it. Tweekers and common thieves is what you are trying to deter. I don't lose any sleep with my setup.

that's quite a setup you've got there!

 

[michaelrc51]

that's quite a setup you've got there!

That is how most floor safes are done. Also, the flange on the back of the steel container should stick out past the container to give it added strength to keep the container in the floor.
IF there is a vulnerability of a floor safe it would have to be in the door.

 

[glockman]

Sounds like a Mas Hamilton lock

If that is the case you are ok.
A pic would help, now you have interested me?
It would help if your buddy put some hard plate in front of the lock

I'll see if I can dig up a pic.

 

[ich_liebe_meine_arbeit]

Nice set up Glockman.

 

[Rugermini14]

I had the same problem; I built a cabinet around my safe. I also added shelving on each side for storing other gun related items (mostly ammo and reloading components). The whole thing is framed in 2x4's the 2x4's are bolted to the concrete and the wall. The safe is also bolted to the concrete and the wall.

I love this set up and want to do it.
One question " how wide are those doors"
Can you respond thru [email protected]
Thanks

 

[LifeLongWNYer]

It you have an alarm system in the building/area where your safe is, you can always add it to your system. It can appear as an intrusion zone, so the alarm company doesn't know what it really is, or the zone can be named "gun storage vault." In this area, the police arrive a little quicker if they know that the burglary might result in more illegal weapons on the street.

There are "mercury switches" available which you can put on the rear of the safe, which will trip if the safe is tipped over. ( They don't really have mercury in them, but work the same way. )

Many businesses use standard surface mount door contacts, with the contact near the door and the magnet on the door. They work well but aren't real pretty. Even if a bad actor sees them and cuts the wire, which should be inside a small metal flex tube. if you used a supervised circuit, as ALL should be, as soon as he cuts the wire, the zone will trip ( as a "tamper" and/or "trouble" and the central station will know that someone if goofing around.

You can mount the contact and magnet inside, but it takes a little work to get the brackets and alignment set up, and to get the wire out of the safe without compromising the fire rating.



.

 

[JASONFB123]

Neato- saved

 

[pdude]

Great idea as any contractors or guests will not know the safe is there if they look in the garage. As well if your garage door is open they'll see the cabinet but not know you have more in there.

 

[4 FN 27]

When I built my Shop/Garage last year in the backyard we built a 16 x 24 Vault. 10 inch thick concrete walls with 2 layers of #2 Rebar on 6 inch center both vertically and horizontally. The Ceiling is 14 inch thick Moline panels with 6 inches of concrete poured over that. The floor is 6 inch with Rebar behind a 48 in deep frost footing. Basically a building inside the building. The Vault Door is a Graffunder VF8240 with a combination lock. Heat is in floor radiant and a Mitsubishi Mini Split for AC.

I was debating hiding the door but decided not to. It is a clear 134 yard shot from the house to the Vault Door. We installed full perimeter security, glass break, motion and video.

 

[63Solutions]

An option to consider for a hidden safe is a Monster Vault, under the bed safe. It is only 7 inches tall and designed to fit under most bed frames. This size also mounts nicely in the back of a large SUV. The measurements are 48" wide, 28" deep and 7" high. The slide out drawer has full extention ball bearing drawer slides with 100 lb drawer capacity. It weighs 140 lbs. There is a second size that fits well on the floor of a closet or the rear of a small or mid-size SUV. Its measurments are 41" wide, 16" deep and 11" tall. This one weighs 105 lbs. Both can be mounted in a variety of ways depending on your application. See attached photo.

I am the distributor for the Dallas, Fort Worth area. I would be happy to meet you and show you the product. See more at:
https://www.facebook.com/DFWmonstervault/?ref=aymt_homepage_panel or www.monstervault.org

message me at [email protected] I offer discounted prices and free delivery in the DFW area.

Hope this helps..................Rick

 

[jesse72]

4 FN 27:
That is a really cool space that you have and it seems like quite a fortress, the cabinet doors also look great with the corrugated steel inserts. Have any more pictures of your shop or a build thread?

 

[4 FN 27]

4 FN 27:
That is a really cool space that you have and it seems like quite a fortress, the cabinet doors also look great with the corrugated steel inserts. Have any more pictures of your shop or a build thread?

Thank you. I have a ton of pics unfortunately I did not know about GJ until I was 1 year into the project.

A friend did a time lapse photo shoot of the building going up. But like me he is pressed for time. Once he finishes the video I'll do a build thread. I still have a few things to wrap up.

I just moved my mill, lathe and press brake in last Saturday. The welders and benches the week before. Today I am sorting cleaning tool boxes. Building metal cabinets over the next couple weeks so I can get organized. And start playing with all my projects I have planned.

 

[mike93lx]

Until you decide on which way to hide your safe, you may wish to obtain a throw away refrigerator box from an appliance store, cut and slip it around your unit. When time and money permits, design and build something more appropriate.
You have a safe to keeps others out, now you just need to camouflage it from prying eyes.
Maybe mark it "Trash for recycle bin" or "Salvation Army Furniture." Use your imagination.

If your safe fits inside a refrigerator box, you need a bigger safe.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I have only a few guns, but I have a large coin collection in a HUGE floor safe that is way too large for it. I've considered buying a good sized gun safe for the guns and coins.

I'm concerned about putting this stuff in the basement due to dampness. We have a pretty good sized walk-in closet off our bedroom that has an unused corner that would fit a good sized gun safe perfectly.

But I'm concerned about a fire and whether the gun safe my fall into the basement and possibly crack open or the frame get bent and the thing now fills up with firefighter water. The location against the corner of the closet is against an outside wall and a garage wall, both with concrete basement walls underneath.

What do you guys and gals think? Am I over worrying about this?

What do the firefighters out there see? Do the heavy gun safes fall into the basement?

 

[G McKay]

Can you give us some suggestion a specific brand ? I am looking to get a safe for the new place. Small, big enough for maybe 6-7 handguns, and keep a fe important docs...

I have seen some people that bolt them to the floor inside a closet...

Walmarts has a 10 (long) gun safe for sale. They are made by Sentinel. They have one that is about five feet tallX18X18 for $250.00. If you buy it on line, they deliver for free. They are pretty nice for holding a few guns.

 

[G McKay]

I have only a few guns, but I have a large coin collection in a HUGE floor safe that is way too large for it. I've considered buying a good sized gun safe for the guns and coins.

I'm concerned about putting this stuff in the basement due to dampness. We have a pretty good sized walk-in closet off our bedroom that has an unused corner that would fit a good sized gun safe perfectly.

But I'm concerned about a fire and whether the gun safe my fall into the basement and possibly crack open or the frame get bent and the thing now fills up with firefighter water. The location against the corner of the closet is against an outside wall and a garage wall, both with concrete basement walls underneath.

What do you guys and gals think? Am I over worrying about this?


What do the firefighters out there see? Do the heavy gun safes fall into the basement?

The average 24"X30" safe only weighs about 5-600 pounds empty. That's the same as three average size guys standing in a tight circle, so you shouldn't have anything to worry about. You can put it in the basement, too. They make heaters to put inside to keep the inside warm and dry. Running a dehumidifier in the basement in the summer always helps.

 

[rayra]

I've got a steel locker inside the house where you'd expect to find it. There isn't much in it, a BB gun, a shotgun barrel, a decorated bone-handled machete from Panama. It's in the end of the closet with the opening towards the back wall to make prying it open harder, and it's bolted into the slab and wall. It's inconvenient to get to. The expectation is that a thief will work on it for nothing and burn up time.

But it's a distraction. I have a few pieces in other well-hidden 'unusual' places that a 'smash and grab' artiste will be hard pressed to find.

In the garage I have a sturdily constructed 'hobby' bench. I have a better budget safe, butted up to the end of it, tucked in a corner, again bolted to slab and studs and again positioned such that prying the door open is obstructed.
It's further concealed by a false front of packing boxes, with sawhorses, work lights and such stacked in front of it. Stuff that doesn't seem to get moved.
Again the expectation is that it will be passed over by some snot that's in a hurry. suburban midafternoon 'latch-key' kids is the typical burglar around here.

Hiding spots are another hobby of mine. I build a lot of things in a lot of materials. Spent much of the last decade renovating / flipping houses. There's lots of places to hide things. Cabinetry and furniture especially, with a little creativity. Especially wood-paneled rooms, wainscotting. Built-in bookcases. Tops of bookcases, backs of bookcases, tops of half-walls under trim caps. Intricate mouldings hide seams quite well.

That's about a 3-1/4" deep space, full height and width of the shelf unit. With a little extra design work it could have a hidden catch, but it's a snug friction fit as it is, you'd have to really be trying to pull it away from the wall to notice anything. And being in earthquake country it just appears to be bolted to the wall.


Another nice spot is concealed drawers under kitchen or bath cabinets, in the toe-kick / pedestal area.

 

[bushmechanic]

If you want to hide something large, it's best to hide it in what Douglas Adams referred to as a "Somebody Else's Problem Field".

Put simply, the object should appear so common as to remain entirely unnoticed by an average mind; an object that is invisible in life, either because we've learned to assume it's present, or because it's presence doesn't adhere to our understanding of an environment.

This is an incredibly valuable concept. Adams created it as a satirical joke, but I've used the idea to great effect in many environments. It's also great for pranks.

Here is something to ponder:

What is it that people so readily expect to see in a garage that they simply will not see it? In other words, when someone walks in, the object is essentially invisible.

I don't mean your garage or shop specifically; I mean an average garage in your neighborhood. Remember what people are like, and how garages are wasted.

Rayra has the right idea.

 

[ddurrett896]

When I built my Shop/Garage last year in the backyard we built a 16 x 24 Vault. .

4FN27 that looks awesome!

What did you use for the floor and siding? I'm planing a cabin build and love what you did. thanks!

 

[4 FN 27]

4FN27 that looks awesome!

What did you use for the floor and siding? I'm planing a cabin build and love what you did. thanks!

The Floor is Skip Planed "Antique" Oak. It is reclaimed, as I understand it this material was from the 1880"s. Polyurethane matte finish applied 2 coats.

The Timbers on the Ceiling and the Rim Joists are reclaimed Timbers from and old Barn around the turn of the century (1900). We couldn't find any long enough to complete the span in 1 piece so there is a mortise and tenon joint in the middle of the 2 spans.

The Walls, Trim and Base are reclaimed Douglas Fir planed to 3/8 thick for the walls and 3/4 thick for the balance. Complete with all the nail holes and knots.

The Ceiling is a reclaimed tin roof from a pole shed that was built in 1931. The inserts in the Cabinets and the upper walls of the bathroom are reclaimed corrugated steel from a pole shed built 1965. Installed all that so the US Steel stamps are shown.

The Cabinets are 100% solid oak (Shelves are MDF Laminated) that was wire brushed to bring out the grain.

The bathroom door is weathered material, not sure what kind of wood??? I just liked the color. I made the hardware for sliding the door. Made 1 sets, 1 to install right away to make the door functional and another set I sandblasted and set in the old pole shed to get rusty which I will install later. The door lock is a reclaimed hook I took off the old farm house when we burnt it down.

There is one wall made from random reclaimed barn siding. Need to replace the door with something that matches the rest of it.

We covered all the walls with 5/8 AC Plywood and then covered that with tar paper. This way fits did not have to be perfect which is how I wanted it and the knot holes would just blend in. And I can hang anything anywhere. No need to hit studs.

If I could have done only 1 thing different I would have sunk the Concrete floor down 2 feet, laid floor trusses in and put the floor on that so the wood would squeak and creak as you walk on it.

Hope that helps. I love the rustic look.