The VISES of Garage Journal

[Fretters]

Well that one made me laugh out loud. And, by the way, '8" Parker' would be a great stage name.

1 more if you don't mind. Can anyone tell what this 1 is from the profile?

No idea what that is, but the general look suggests old American to me. The rather shiny leadscrew ball and handle seem contradictory though.

 

[joe.striper]

Thanks Joe and outlaw. Sorry I'm at work and knee deep in s-cams, I wish I could see the jaws better.

1 more if you don't mind. Can anyone tell what this 1 is from the profile? This guy is just up the road and askin 70.00 all it says is 4" jaws.

Tclev, remember this saying "if its got chrome i aint taking it home". There is no vise I'd buy that has chrome on. Chrome says asian import.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

drives, That is a 6" FPU and I have a 5" EMF that is similar except German made. The EMF is painted the same color as the stand you like. The RR anvil you see in the back I got at the same time as the stand. I have a couple newer small anvils but no old ones. The RR anvil ($7.00)was all surface rust and cleaned up well. Someone did a real nice job of machining the top and sides on it. I bought the chunk RR track ($10.00) on the floor just for something solid to beat on. If you look there is a car frame in there from a 72 GTO. I plan on moving that to the outside garage. I bought three old work benches with cast iron legs and wood tops and plan to move the vises on to them.

 

[VOH]

Does anyone have an idea/suggestions as to how a replace a vice handle? I have apparently overdone it a couple of times and now have a curved handle that looks terrible.

I am looing for what type of material.

VOH

 

[jakemac]

I picked up this little 1" Starrett clamp vise this morning for a buck or two (part of a bundle).
There is a number 38 stamped in the side of the static jaw near the mftr's casting. The main nut is a half nut, and the spindle doesn't seem to have a collar or any other method of staying in place. The other end of the spindle sits in a collar cast in the back of the slide to keep it level, but comes out when you unscrew the jaw. There is a missing/broken spring that is pinned to the static jaw to keep the slide & spindle down against the nut. I think you're supposed to be able to lift the front jaw to disengage the nut for a quick release, but the spindle would have to stay in place in the jaw for you to do that. I'm still pondering the issue.

 

[drivesitfar]

Get: thanks for the information and again thanks for posting a couple pictures of your vise family. i only looked at them a couple times when you posted them and saw about a 4 foot section of RR track under some of your vises near your FPU and a few pieces of RR track elsewhere along with your vises. i'll post or PM you if i have any other questions and to say that i might like you to fill up a pallet and ship them to me doesn't say it all.

Jake: that little guy is cool. As Fretters would say i hope you get it sorted out because i'm sure that vise will have some use somewhere in your shop.

Voh: I'd PM Ritzblitz and have him make you a handle because if you haven't seen one of them yet he really does a great job. if you want to make your own can you post a few pictures of your vise and maybe we might be able to help you better along with the measurements of the existing bar? or post pictures and details over on the Vise Repair 101 thread and the link is in my signature.

 

[bigcaddy]

VA it is STRIPER NOT STRIPPER! Jesus you're killing me and ruining my reputation

Dont try and fool us, Joe. We all know how you are able to afford all of these big bench vises.

 

[KMScott]

Does anyone have an idea/suggestions as to how a replace a vice handle? I have apparently overdone it a couple of times and now have a curved handle that looks terrible.

I am looing for what type of material.

VOH

I suggest this steel as your handle, the ends can be different material.

http://www.stockcarsteel.com/cold-rolled-steel-bar/cold-rolled-1144-steel-round-bar

 

[Movin/on]

Not exactly a vise but I'm going to add some jaws,parts and a base to attach to my welding table. It will be a vise then. 12" of available opening after the jaws are installed. They will be 3/4"X4"X3".
The side plates are 5/8 X2" steel. The screw drive is a ratchet similar to a chain binder.

It's a tank track removal tool to pull the track together and loosen the pins when changing/repairing a track. Bought it at the Portland Swap about 8 years ago $15.

Movin/on

 

[balane]

Thanks Joe and outlaw. Sorry I'm at work and knee deep in s-cams, I wish I could see the jaws better.

1 more if you don't mind. Can anyone tell what this 1 is from the profile? This guy is just up the road and askin 70.00 all it says is 4" jaws.

I didn't read all of the replies so maybe this was answered but that looks like a JET vise to me. I've seen two in person. They are Taiwan made imports but both seemed like decent vises to me.

This is a JET 6" vise that's been on Craig's List in my area for a while.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/tls/4753380365.html

.

 

[Fretters]

I picked up this little 1" Starrett clamp vise this morning for a buck or two (part of a bundle).
There is a number 38 stamped in the side of the static jaw near the mftr's casting. The main nut is a half nut, and the spindle doesn't seem to have a collar or any other method of staying in place. The other end of the spindle sits in a collar cast in the back of the slide to keep it level, but comes out when you unscrew the jaw. There is a missing/broken spring that is pinned to the static jaw to keep the slide & spindle down against the nut. I think you're supposed to be able to lift the front jaw to disengage the nut for a quick release, but the spindle would have to stay in place in the jaw for you to do that. I'm still pondering the issue.

Any better photo's of that nut assembly Jake? The nuts are usually floating on the quick release vices, with some form of spring pushing them up to seat against the leadscrew. If the nut is fixed, then obviously it's meant to work the way you envisage, with the slide/screw being pushed down against the nut.

The leadscrews are either fixed by a nut or a pin at the end of the leadscrew, behind the rear leadscrew bearing/hanger. I'd guess the thread may have stripped or the end of the leadscrew has snapped off, if there's no hole through that leacscrew for a pin or thread on the end. The other way is they have a collar on the front of the leadscrew with a retaining plate, to keep the leadscrew in place. Simplest way to fix it is to drill through the leadscrew and fit a split pin and washer, I'd guess, without knowing exacty what you have to work with.

This is a photo of the rear pinned type leadscrew:

This is the type with the collared leadscrew and retaining plate:

 

[jakemac]

I tried to get better pictures, but my camera wouldn't cooperate. I suspect that the end of the screw broke off at some point. I may drill a hole for a pin up front, or see if I can fit a collar, but the inside of the slider is pretty tight.

 

[Fretters]

You could always extend the rear end of the leadscrew by drilling, tapping and then adding a threaded extension piece to screw into it. Braze or pin it to stop it unscrewing, and that should last fine. That end of the leadscrew is never going to see any real stress, so a stupidly strong extension isn't a necessity.

 

[hemdale]

Hi guys,

I'm in the market for a proper vise. Phew.
I think Dolex is a bit overpriced and it seems "new" Dolex are definitely not as good as the "old" Dolex. Sigh.

Leinen: not a huge fan of the rear mobile part.

And then I thought of York

Is there any specific model you would recommand me ?

I'm sure totally sure that the "T" (tube holder) would make a huge difference but I think it's the kind of "gadget" that could come handy at some point.
Should I stick to a proper fixed sturdy base or go for a slightly weaker base but a turning base ?

I'm still a bit undecided wether I should go for 125cm or 150cm.
Would you guys have mostly 150cm wide or 125cm wide would be just fine ?

So far, I've narrowed my selection to these:

York 125 Lux T: 20 kilos @ 134€
York 150 Lux T: 30 kilos @ 188€

Extra 150 T (fixed base + pipe jaws): 17 kilos @ 334 €
Extra 150 S (swivel base but no pipe jaws): 18 kilos @ 357€
Extra 150 S T (swivel base + pipe jaws): 18 kilos @ 375€

Thanks for your input !

 

[jakemac]

You could always extend the rear end of the leadscrew by drilling, tapping and then adding a threaded extension piece to screw into it. Braze or pin it to stop it unscrewing, and that should last fine. That end of the leadscrew is never going to see any real stress, so a stupidly strong extension isn't a necessity.

Unfortunately, I don't weld (I wish I had learned). I'm leaning towards drilling a hole up where a collar would go and just sticking a pin in there.

 

[drivesitfar]

Hemdale: most of us on the vise thread would always say bigger is better, but really a good 4 inch vise could probably do about 80-90% of any job we throw at it especially if it had some pipe jaws.

you gave a detailed list of vises (vices) that most of us don't own here in the US so make another post to give more details of what you want to do with the new vice once you own one in your shop. then when the guys waking up over there will be able to give you a better answer.

From all I've seen and read the Yorks are a great vise and Wilton copied their vise to make over here for the last 70 years.

good luck

Jake: the screw is probably too small to drill and tap and put in an extension that way, but thought i'd throw it out there since neither of us weld (yet).

 

[zoomieport]

From all I've seen and read the Yorks are a great vise and Wilton copied their vise to make over here for the last 70 years.

Let me start by saying, I AM IN NO WAY TRYING TO START AN ARGUMENT, and I agree, Wilton's are a copy of York's, no doubt about that.

I guess I just don't know that the design wasn't Mr. Vogl's design originally and he decided, possibly due to the "political climate" at the time (late '30's, early '40's), to bring "his own idea" here where things were probably a little more "comfortable"...

I just see the words: used, borrowed, stole, copied, etc... all the time, but maybe it was his design all along.

I have nothing to back this theory, just a thought.

If anyone has any difinitive info, I'd love to read any history you have, I would find it facinating.

No offense intended DIF, I hope none is taken.

Like I said, it's just a thought...

 

[tclev]

Thanks for the replies and advise. The problem I keep running into is the classifieds out here will only let you upload files of a certain size so t he pictures ****, and the people placing the ads won't get back to you. Balane, that picture you provided looks right.

 

[drivesitfar]

Zoomie: no way am I offended by your comments. i just don't know and sounds like you have a good theory, but sounds like you don't know 100% either. agreed the climate in Europe with WWII ramping up at that time must have been hard or impossible to start or even do any business.

i'm still trying to find out how the Wilton bullet vises are dated on their slides for the early ones. some say that the original ones all had 5 years built into them for their warranty. then you see some that if you take the 5 year date off like say an October 1945 then you have a vise that was made before Wilton started their business in 1941.

i also have a Baby Bullet i'll have to post a picture of because on the slide it has two dates of 1947 and i think 1948. not sure if those are the two years, but it has 2 different years stamped on the slide. also they must have made a boatload of Baby Bullets at the Chicago factory before they moved to Schiller Park because a lot of those Chicago cast Babies are stamped with dates long after the move.

discussing vise history doesn't have to be a war because it's sort of fun sorting out all the lack of or missing information on all our vises.

All: i'm still trying to find out what happened to all the vise inventory and companies that Union took over in the 50's because they apparently just closed the vise business in the late 50's. they bought out Parker and Parker bought out Prentiss and probably a few others.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I have a York 125 and it's a good size.

I don't remember if the swivel base had little teeth to prevent slipping or not, I *think* they did, I'll double check tomorrow.

As for the "T" models with the pipe jaws. Those look pretty small to do any good. If you want to grab round things you can usually find some V jaw caps that work much better like these.

And then I thought of York

Is there any specific model you would recommand me ?

I'm sure totally sure that the "T" (tube holder) would make a huge difference but I think it's the kind of "gadget" that could come handy at some point.
Should I stick to a proper fixed sturdy base or go for a slightly weaker base but a turning base ?

I'm still a bit undecided wether I should go for 125cm or 150cm.
Would you guys have mostly 150cm wide or 125cm wide would be just fine ?

 

[thursday]

Thanks Joe and outlaw. Sorry I'm at work and knee deep in s-cams, I wish I could see the jaws better.

1 more if you don't mind. Can anyone tell what this 1 is from the profile? This guy is just up the road and askin 70.00 all it says is 4" jaws.

That's my vise. It was made in Japan during the late 70's or 80's. That's the time Craftsman was having their bench vises built in Japan. And this is either a genuine Craftsman missing the plate badge or an identical knock off.

I didn't read all of the replies so maybe this was answered but that looks like a JET vise to me. I've seen two in person. They are Taiwan made imports but both seemed like decent vises to me.

This is a JET 6" vise that's been on Craig's List in my area for a while.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/tls/4753380365.html



.

Yep same thing, and they're great vises.

Thanks for the replies and advise. The problem I keep running into is the classifieds out here will only let you upload files of a certain size so t he pictures ****, and the people placing the ads won't get back to you. Balane, that picture you provided looks right.

Well then you must be the person that left me a voice message yesterday. Which I did return.

 

[oldldh]

Just thought I'd post this for the hell of it...

No I didn't find a NOS 5197...

I wish...

Just a photo of the box, and "Owner's Manual"...

Kind of neat...

 

[tclev]

That would be me. Thank you for returning my call 10 or so hours later.

 

[thursday]

That would be me. Thank you for returning my call 10 or so hours later.

Missed call 2pm, returned call 7pm.

 

[tclev]

Not looking for a peeing match but you may want to revise your ad similar to the 1 for your files (lots of good info, make, coo, etc). At any rate thanks for the info Matthew.

Oh, and the bearings you have listed are wheel end bearings for tractors and trailing equipment.

 

[hemdale]

I have a York 125 and it's a good size.

I don't remember if the swivel base had little teeth to prevent slipping or not, I *think* they did, I'll double check tomorrow.

As for the "T" models with the pipe jaws. Those look pretty small to do any good. If you want to grab round things you can usually find some V jaw caps that work much better like these.

Thanks EOC, do you have any York swivel base you could check for me ?

 

[Jan-Sietze]

My 'new' old vise has a production date ...
As good as new...

 

[Lu-Max]

I am heading up to look at two bench vises for my shop. Not collectible I don't think (especially the Wilton), these would just be put to use on one of my work benches. Curious what a fair price would be since I've never bought a used vise before? I think the Wilton is 5", waiting for a call to verify. Also, Is it easy to find a replacement piece for that broken jaw on the Craftsman? Thanks.

 

[Outlawmws]

I think the Craftsman is current or recent production so check with the craftsman pasts web site. Prices are variable to the area, so hard to say. Personally I'd not pay more than about 20-25 for either, a bit more if I needed a vise (I don't), and maybe a bit more if they are hard to find in your area. Keeping in mind, I'm a cheapskate and patient on prices generally.

 

[Lu-Max]

Thanks Outlawmws

 

[RonM3]

Just got these at my works scrap sale!

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ronmantle/15796137005" title="IMG_0349 by ronmantle, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5614/15796137005_1bb2f971fa_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="IMG_0349"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ronmantle/15772463296" title="IMG_0347 by ronmantle, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5606/15772463296_babea465bf_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="IMG_0347"></a>

 

[tclev]

Nice vises Ron what did you have to give for them?

 

[bluebolt]

Scrap sale? Why do I think you **** even before I hear the prices LOL. C2 and 600S?

 

[RonM3]

I bought the two welding tables that they are mounted on. The tables are 8 feet by 4 feet. Anyway I got the tables with the vises for $440.00.

Where can you find the model number on these?

I looked but could not find anything but the manufacturer address.

The big one is a 12 inch opening with 8 inch jaws.

 

[Galvonzo]

12 inch opening and 8 inch jaws? Yeah that's a 800S. Which means to me that you got it for 440 bucks and two free welding tables along with an extra free wilton. Or you got two 200 dollar welding tables and two 20 dollar vises. Whatever way you look at it, you **** big time buddy.

 

[tclev]

Nice grab. We have several wiltons at the shop and 1 is mounted to the recharging table. it's all but froze up now and company policy doesn't allow us to buy or take anything even scrap, so it will will be melted down due to policy.

 

[BJ42LX]

Where can you find the model number on these?

Ron,

The markings are usually on the right side of the static jaw.

If the big one is 8" wide, well the first thing is "you ****"! Secondly, that makes it an 800S.

The other one looks like a C2. Which is good for a second "you ****"!

 

[PghJKB]

Zoomie: no way am I offended by your comments. i just don't know and sounds like you have a good theory, but sounds like you don't know 100% either. agreed the climate in Europe with WWII ramping up at that time must have been hard or impossible to start or even do any business.

i'm still trying to find out how the Wilton bullet vises are dated on their slides for the early ones. some say that the original ones all had 5 years built into them for their warranty. then you see some that if you take the 5 year date off like say an October 1945 then you have a vise that was made before Wilton started their business in 1941.

i also have a Baby Bullet i'll have to post a picture of because on the slide it has two dates of 1947 and i think 1948. not sure if those are the two years, but it has 2 different years stamped on the slide. also they must have made a boatload of Baby Bullets at the Chicago factory before they moved to Schiller Park because a lot of those Chicago cast Babies are stamped with dates long after the move.

discussing vise history doesn't have to be a war because it's sort of fun sorting out all the lack of or missing information on all our vises.

All: i'm still trying to find out what happened to all the vise inventory and companies that Union took over in the 50's because they apparently just closed the vise business in the late 50's. they bought out Parker and Parker bought out Prentiss and probably a few others.

drivesitfar
There is a way we may be able to determine if / when Wilton went to the +5 year dating scheme.

We would need Wilton owners to contribute the date stamping and models of their vises. Once we have a large enough sample, we should see a gap in the dates.

For example, if Wilton decided that as of 1 Jan 1950 that all vises would be dated +5 years, there should be no vises with the dates 1/1950 through 12/1955. As you have already pointed out, if the +5 scheme went into effect at the inception of the company, then there are some vises out there made before Wilton came into existence (York refugees?)

If the +5 scheme lasted for 5 years or more, we should see a full 5 year gap in the dates. If it lasted less than 5 years we should see a less than 5 year gap. If it did not happen, we should see no gap.

Whadda ya think?

 

[jreb10]

Finished up the Parker 436. It was a little rough and stuck when I brought it home.

I didn't want to go too bold because it is so big. I settled for a matt gray with black lettering. This lettering business is not easy. I figured out how much to load the brush and how fast to move it about the time I finished the last letter.

 

[drivesitfar]

Ron: i agree you either got some free welding tables or some free $500 vises if they are not broken or welded. you have a good eye or you just happened to be at the right place at the right time.

Jreb: nice job on that huge Parker.

JKB: i just started a thread with your idea so let's see what the members of GJ can figure out.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4385237#post4385237

All: here's the link to the new Wilton bullet thread where we are going to post all our Wilton bullet vises and their dates stamped on their slides. maybe we'll solve the mystery and at the very least we'll have a thread of some awesome Wilton vises.