1966 F100 EcoBoost Engine Swap (EcoBoosted)

[TimeWarpF100]

I'd say time for the salesman to make good on his assurance of fit. Whether that is modifying height of columns or door height, either should be on his dime or he should take it back..

The installer sales person pretty much took off and left me holding the bag. Did nothing to help. Pretty much a screw you I have your money!

I think it was just his commission fee's he did not want to give up, If I would have forced the issue I may have been able to make them take it back.

Problem solving, all in part of a day's work.

Have not heard from him since. He had other work. At least he had left his forklift which did make it easier to set up. I also used it for moving the 2011 cab in the shop. No way two people could have done that. Unreal how heavy it is.


Anyone know of a good place to buy a set of scales? Out of curiousity I would like to know the weights of stuff being added and total weight of veh and components.

I may have to look at Longacre my brother had their stuff back in his racing days. I actually have a small alignment gauge from them. Hmmm

Anyone else interested in how much this stuff weighs?

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Actually, there could be one option. A vacuum formed polycarbonate rear window could be made be a vacuum forming company, much the same way as a helicopter crane pilots window or dome for air hockey table is made. If more room in just the window area would actually help this could be an option?

Its not the back of cab where I need room. Its the front. If I move out the back of cab my feet will not touch the pedals.. Stretching the cowl area and the entire front clip a more viable option. That would also help in fitting the cooling module and front bumper, grille.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Re: 1966 F100 EcoBoost Engine Swap & 1966 427 Project

In French we say Une chose à la fois.. Which roughly translates to one thing at a time. Keep on kicking asses and I'm sure you will find a way to solve your cab /dash problem

Ou si ca fitte pas grab un Marteau pi fait le fitter....Translates...If it doesn't fit, grab a hammer and bang the **** out of it until it dies....

Seriously though, back away from it until you can figure it out, there is always a way....don't get frustrated.....

I think the *** that is getting the royal kicking is mine!

I like the hammer part, wonder where I can find some dynamite?

Its beyond frustrating at this point! $$, Time, patience all running on empty right now.

As I mentioned earlier this stuff is heavy and bulky and I have to wait days in between before help shows up. My friend Mel would help but he lives 60+ miles from me and works 275 miles on opposite direction.

Another friend that is local was in bad quad crash a couple weeks ago.

60-65 mph and went off a 15' dropoff. Really banged up.

Even like today now when I have a bit of time I spend it on GJ typing away, gathering pics, trying to restore old photo's. At least I did not have to break my back lifting something!

For instance. Today I would like to move the 4 post hoist inside. Its on casters but weighs 2500lbs. I can probably either wait to see if someone shows or try on my own. I can most likely get it in but it will take a while!

 

[TimeWarpF100]

And now for the "fun" stuff. LOL

More in a bit after I get some photo's and measurements.

Check out the height of 2011 dash! The rake and size of windshields from year to year is also incredible. The rake is what allowed ford to fit so much stuff in dash. I knew that going in but expected it to work.

Any and all suggestions welcome! Together we can figure this out. I surely will not on my own. Need fresh eyes on project . . .

I will try to get more photo's to show what I am up against.

Big issue is those lingering health issues along with plain getting old and weak . .
Just thinking about it makes me tired.

I am sure once the getting cab on if it can be resolved the rest will be cake walk.

A few things that are a must.

1) 3 people to fit in cab

2) the eco HVAC has to work

3) I need adequate leg room so its not cramped to drive

4) Should have started with a 1966 crew cab

5) I really want all electronics to work (since I am this deep in project)

6) A engineer I am not, not so good of a fabricator mind either

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Check out the distance from back rest of seat to firewall. I do not think my friend who is
7' 2" could reach the pedals . . . haha

Also notice how not so tall the cab height is. The '11 seat nearly touches the roof and that is with a lowered floor.

I had planned on dropping cab 2" to get a better ride height. Max I can really go is 1" if that. At 1" the firewall fits perfect to the '66 cab.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Kind of a off topic but need help if anyone can.

Just got a call from the 4 post lift installer who said he was trying to text me all day yesterday and none would go thru.

My wife said the same thing the day before. She thought I "blocked" her!

When a text is sent it will not go thru. turns red says not delivered.

I have a iphone 5.

New phone on order for 5 weeks now and still not shipped! Frustrating . . .

 

[gasgas17]

I know a lot of people having text problems with I phones. I am sticking with my blackberry.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I made the mistake of a inquiry to a set of race scales and of course while on website spotted a new alignment gauge.

http://www.longacreracing.com/produ...+Gauge+w+AccuLevel™+and+Quick+Set™+LW+Adapter


Instead of guessing on vehicle weights this is also on the way!

http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?prodid=7143


I purchased my first Longacre item the basic mag gauge back in 1978 the first year they started the race car stuff. The new version will allow me to use it on a 18" wheel for the eco project.

I am sooooo curious as to weight of my 427 truck and also the complete rolling chassis for ecoboost project. Not to mention the weight of about anything else in shop . .

Any guesses to weight difference between the ecoboost cab and the 66 cab less floor(s)?

I would say at least a 300-500 lb weight difference!

How about the weight of just the ecoboost floor?

How about some guesses to weight of the 427 truck as it sits.

Its all there except for fluids, exhaust, bumpers,fuel tank, tailgate, wiper motor, trim and of course the aluminum wheels vs the steels now on it.

My guess is 3300lbs or less . . .That would be very light for a pickup but what I am hoping for.

 

[gasgas17]

Two suggestions. Take the top finish piece off of the dash as It does not look like it is going to work anyways. Then I think it may be much easier to move that dash way forward and out under the bottom of the windshield frame. Then you just have to make a new top finish panel and not an entire dash. Think of the depth of the original 66 dash in relation to the windshield. I also believe that the dash mount brackets are playing tricks on you by fitting to the door frame posts. Raise the cab move the dash ahead to its stock 2011 position and drop the cab back down over top. Secondly, It looks like you are going to have to raise the cab and inch or 2 to make it work. You can always lower the suspension to offset raising the cab.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Two suggestions. Take the top finish piece off of the dash as It does not look like it is going to work anyways. Then I think it may be much easier to move that dash way forward and out under the bottom of the windshield frame. Then you just have to make a new top finish panel and not an entire dash. Think of the depth of the original 66 dash in relation to the windshield. I also believe that the dash mount brackets are playing tricks on you by fitting to the door frame posts. Raise the cab move the dash ahead to its stock 2011 position and drop the cab back down over top. Secondly, It looks like you are going to have to raise the cab and inch or 2 to make it work. You can always lower the suspension to offset raising the cab.

I can only move the dash forward so far. Yes, plan is to mod the top for starters but the dash height is so much taller. Impossible to put in location of 2011. Cab just not big enough. Will have to shorten dash by at least 6" but then run into having defroster or heat ducts.

See above post re: cab height. Post 928. Ideal cab height is 1" up vs the 2" down from current like I wanted to.

I do not think it will look good to have too much frame sticking down under cab. Thats why I dropped it in the first place. At 2" down it gives me nice room for engine.

If I move it 1" back up it will also give me more room for core support. At 2" the stock hood latch will work in eco catch.

 

[jayz66ragtop]

In looking at that last picture from the drivers side it seems the steering wheel would be right at leg height sitting in that seat as it is. Probably a major pain in the *** since it looks like the floor was just installed but any way to make the seat sit lower? Like four inches lower? Looks to me that the issue is the seats are too high compared to the rest of the interior. Drop the seat down and a lot of the issues may resolve themselves.

 

[APEowner]

From just the pictures it looks like you could gain a little by modifying the seat track to drop the seat slightly.

There's obviously limit beyond which it would look silly but you can gain some room for dash height by letting the top of the dash end above the bottom of the windshield and painting the bottom of the windshield black to hide it. That sounds crude but I've noticed that trick used by OEMs on some late model cars.

 

[tlmartin84]

It would be A LOT of fab work, but...........

You could chop the posts a couple inches, and shorten the glass. Add a couple inches into the cowl areas, fenders and somewhere across the radiator panel. That would let you slide the dash forward without lowering it anymore. It would require some modification of the doors as well.

 

[tlmartin84]

ACTUALLY you could run the "reverse" section through the hood and cowl area only, lifting them and shortening the glass. You then wouldn't have to tackle doors, fenders, and radiator panel.

 

[HOTFR8]

Could you remote any of the fittings to another location ? That would give you more room under the dash.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Posting a few pics to give perspective of how different the trucks really are.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

front bumpers are aligned pretty much spot on.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

i am not very good at explaining whats up.

A few numbers to see if this helps

If you look back at above pics you can see front bumpers are aligned, the front axle position is about 12" off. The dash depth on the '66 is 11" that includes the amount the dash pad sticks out. The '66 dash is flush with A pilar, the 2011 dash sticks out 7" from A pilar.

The dash depth on the '11 is 22" double the '66

The dash height is 12" on the '66 & 22" on the '11

Dash height from floor to bottom of dash on the '66 is 20.5" the 2011 is only 13"

The 2011 windshield rake amount is 26" the '66 windshield rake is only 11.5"

The dash now when its same distance from "A" pilar as installed in '11 @ 7" is approx 7" further back.

Even tho pic of '11 dash in '66 cab the steering wheel looks close to the seat I can still sit in it. The room is pretty close to the stock '66 being quite a bit further back.

The distance from seat mounting to firewall because its all stock '11 components that is how it would be in the 2011. Cab configuration is completely all wrong.

So prior I had the dash set in place and the floor set in place but until last night never had both together.

I do know it was going to be tight and many mods would have to be done but not quite like this! LOL

So if I seem a bit uptight right now that's because I am. Uploading pics now that will help explain why.

 

[volleyball]

Are you married to the truck seats? It would seem seats from a tighter vehicle would fit better. I had thought about you just removing the floor pan humps but do you want to drive like it was a sports car with you **** on the floor?

 

[TimeWarpF100]

When It looked like I was going to be able to get the eco project off the ground I put my
5700 mile F600 up for sale. Took me 20yrs to find the right truck but could not afford both projects. Because I was so far into the eco project in both time and $$ thinking I would never get much of it back decided to sell the F600.

Story was a guy was buying it to turn into a car hauler to haul cars in his huge ford collection. The accent should have been a clue. After getting me down where I did not have another dime to give I agreed to sell it. Just to move forward on the Eco & 427 Projects.

Truck would be going to southern california

Much to my surprise I get a call from shipping company late yesterday asking if the truck was avail for shipping. I said sure I parked it outside after I was paid as needed the room. They then said ok, the truck will be picked up and taken to Galveston to prepare it for the boat ride! I asked what boat ride. Oh, its going to Kuwait!

Had I known it was a broker pulling my chain and it was going out of country I would never had done it! Breaks my heart to see it go much rather than I lost $$ and the broker rakes it in selling it for big bucks!

i guess these will be my final pictures of the 1966 F600 as it will be going across the pond! No way no how I would have done this. Too late now I guess.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Are you married to the truck seats? It would seem seats from a tighter vehicle would fit better. I had thought about you just removing the floor pan humps but do you want to drive like it was a sports car with you **** on the floor?

Because seats are power and I already purchased 2 extra sets of upholstery for them I am kinda stuck with them.

Plan was to shorten the backs to be level with back window and just use either the tan or black upholstery I already have purchased.

I guess if I could recoup some of my $$ and push comes to shove I would go with a different seat.

Entire theme will probably change now.

If I could find a 2011-2014 regular cab I would just add that to chassis and drive the truck. Dig a ditch and bury the rest . . .

I have a bunch of extra eco parts left over I am not using. Been on craigslist forever but cannot get 20% of a new part. Have not sold a single item other than someone wanting the engine and trans for about what the plastic engine cover would cost . .

 

[TimeWarpF100]

In looking at that last picture from the drivers side it seems the steering wheel would be right at leg height sitting in that seat as it is. Probably a major pain in the *** since it looks like the floor was just installed but any way to make the seat sit lower? Like four inches lower? Looks to me that the issue is the seats are too high compared to the rest of the interior. Drop the seat down and a lot of the issues may resolve themselves.

From just the pictures it looks like you could gain a little by modifying the seat track to drop the seat slightly.

There's obviously limit beyond which it would look silly but you can gain some room for dash height by letting the top of the dash end above the bottom of the windshield and painting the bottom of the windshield black to hide it. That sounds crude but I've noticed that trick used by OEMs on some late model cars.

It would be A LOT of fab work, but...........

You could chop the posts a couple inches, and shorten the glass. Add a couple inches into the cowl areas, fenders and somewhere across the radiator panel. That would let you slide the dash forward without lowering it anymore. It would require some modification of the doors as well.

ACTUALLY you could run the "reverse" section through the hood and cowl area only, lifting them and shortening the glass. You then wouldn't have to tackle doors, fenders, and radiator panel.

Could you remote any of the fittings to another location ? That would give you more room under the dash.

Thanks for all the replies!

Have not given up completely, yet. Now that the F600 is going away I still have to try to find a solution. Its never easy doing something like this especially when you are first one doing it!

I will obviously have to remove dash and tear into it to see what I can do.

I had planned on having the air bags working.

Problem is being by myself I am at mercy of someone stopping by for help.

Three people now that were helping have moved out of town for work.

Another banged up bad on a quad accident.

 

[volleyball]

I would think some guy with a base model might pay well to get nicer seats. Put them up on CL with a price that would make you happy to see them leave.

 

[jarhead]

We can only hope the F600 ends up in good hands.

Ya never know maybe it will be converted for launching Tomahawks

 

[66f250]

I feel your pain working with that dash as I have had several apart for repairs. I also have a 66 f250 I restored and can see what your up against. I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the top of the cowl just below the windshield and install the one from the 11, then try to fit the fenders and hood to the new cowl. Obviously that would require some thinking, but you are capable. Is the heater box bolted to the firewall at this time?

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I take it you didn't do any measuring or side-by-side comparison before you got into this project? Seeing your pictures of the two trucks together, all these issues are pretty obvious.

If you are still committed to seeing this through, it looks like your only viable option is lengthening the cab.

I know you have refused this idea, and have a reason why everbody else's is bad, but it's looking like you are trying to deny the reality of the situation.

I say this because I love the concept, and am rooting for you to get it together. But deflecting every solution offered will leave you with a big of disjointed parts, and a mountain of frustration. Good luck.

Your idea is lengthening the cab where?

I am open to viable options and am not at all in denial whats up. Please read the first 20 posts and to what I had to say about it 2 1/2 yrs ago.

I posted the recent pics of side by side just to give others an idea whats up.

I had both trucks from the beginning and was well aware of all the differences. From my very first posts I tried my best do describe what I was up against.

A engineer I am not and the "ONLY" way I can do anything like this is try. and work around it trying different things until I can get it to work.

Seeing as though I am not coming across to people they way I am trying to its probably best I no longer post about it.

There was a reason I flunked english in school.

If and when I get it going I will post then.

I tried my best to explain and show each step no matter how good or bad it was. I just pissed people off in the process I guess.

 

[Wanna Ride]

No need to be a douche to the guy. You're basically talking to him in a very condescending manner. They guy's already overcome some pretty steep obstacles in this inspiring project, and he's merely voicing his frustrations. Sorry everyone elses projects don't go as smooth and perfect as yours.

Timewarp - ignore the negativity. You didn't piss anyone off. Some people are just fueled by negativity.

Keep on keepin' on, brother! I know it's frustrating and if I lived closer, I'd gladly come over and lend a hand... or three. As I'm sure many other forum members would as well, if they could. Like many others on here - we're anxiously anticipating every update you post!

I have a 2014 4x4 Supercrew, and have been recently eyeing a solid '66 candidate for a restore. Always been a Ford man, and have been fortunate enough to have had many nice F-Series trucks. I never realized until you posted the comparison pics, how much larger the new truck really is!

Just a thought - and I'm sure it would take some measuring to figure it out, but ever thought of some seats from a late-model Ranger? They'd be of the same style and fabric colors, just smaller. Maybe an option worth looking into. Can't wait to see more progress pics and updates! Somewhere, I have some pics of one of my Ranger's interiors. I'll see if I can find it for you.

Here's a pic of my last F100...

 

[Chateau Slate 66]

TW, it appears you don't want to modify the exterior dimensions of the cab, and I agree completely. The idea is to have the ECO drivetrain in THIS '66 truck, not a stretched or misshapen version of the truck. It seems like the only viable option would be to make a custom dash. It will definitely be a lot of work and you may even need to employ a little design help, but I feel like if your energies were directed that way, you would be on your way to a solution. The other fitment problems in the cab would mostly go away as well, correct?

 

[volleyball]

Space, the final frontier and in a 66, you don't have it under the dash. Back then they didn't have to stuff much up under there, now they do.
Timewarp, I feel for how much you are up against, and how overwhelming it must be. But you cannot take what you feel as negative to heart. It seems to me that Bam is just trying to help in his own way, just like the rest of us. You post here, you are like a public figure, you are going to get good and bad, kiss *** and critical comments. It seems all are just throwing ideas out to you to see what you like or may have to do even if you don't like to get this done faster than your friends 56.
I was thinking that maybe you can make the back wall of the cab, an electronics rack. Relocate all the clutter from under the dash to somewhere it is easy to access. With a cover, it might be able to be hidden. Use a center console to hold some of the controls and as conduit to run the wires as you will have lots of them.

 

[OHSCrifle]

Good news on the lift modification "fix".

Regarding the truck.. I will just ramble a bit here. Hate to see you bail out but it's not my money.

Gut that dash - it's got to be 75% plastic. Probably will lose airbags which ***** but totally different cab volume probably means airbags would be dangerous in smaller cab anyway.

I think the suggested center console idea is a good one (to move some of the electronics and offset some dash space) but it may mean no 3 across seating.

This build has many followers because it is heroic. It remains a great project. I hope you can make it work.

Seeing side by side photos is eye opening. New trucks are huge. Ford could use steel and cut enormous amounts of weight by scaling them down a bit.

 

[Skyline]

One trick that might help save a good amount of space behind the dash, allowing you to move it further forward might be to investigate one of the Vintage Air systems. Some are much more compact than the stock '11 system.

 

[BBChevro]

Hey TW, as OHSCrifle said "...Gut that dash..." - get rid of any stuff that you don't want/need (be very, very careful with the air bags though - they go off with a lot of force).
I would imagine that the '11 had hard ABS plastic ducting for the heat/AC, which could be replaced with flexible convoluted hose, etc.
Perhaps a smaller evaporator/box could be used (maybe Vintage Air, Old Air, etc. could supply?) - or move it down lower into the passenger footwell area (passengers don't need all that space ).

Attach a sling to the '11 dash and support the weight of it from overhead with an engine crane, lift, gantry or whatever you have - this will help greatly to make it a one-man operation to position it.
I would also remove most of the existing mounting tabs or brackets from it as well - again to make it easier for you to move it around/tilt it, etc. (weld them or new ones back on once the position is found).

I know that you'd like to keep the '11 seats (and you've invested extra in them), but they do appear to dominate the interior - maybe Wanna Ride's suggestion of looking at some Ranger seats (or similar) would be worth considering?

Sad to hear about the fire engine having to leave.

Don't give up, where there's a will, there's a way.



I just see that Skyline's beaten me to the after-market AC idea
(Obviously, it's taken me about an hour to compose my "essay" )

 

[TimeWarpF100]

No need to be a douche to the guy. You're basically talking to him in a very condescending manner. They guy's already overcome some pretty steep obstacles in this inspiring project, and he's merely voicing his frustrations. Sorry everyone elses projects don't go as smooth and perfect as yours.

Timewarp - ignore the negativity. You didn't piss anyone off. Some people are just fueled by negativity.

Keep on keepin' on, brother! I know it's frustrating and if I lived closer, I'd gladly come over and lend a hand... or three. As I'm sure many other forum members would as well, if they could. Like many others on here - we're anxiously anticipating every update you post!

I have a 2014 4x4 Supercrew, and have been recently eyeing a solid '66 candidate for a restore. Always been a Ford man, and have been fortunate enough to have had many nice F-Series trucks. I never realized until you posted the comparison pics, how much larger the new truck really is!

Just a thought - and I'm sure it would take some measuring to figure it out, but ever thought of some seats from a late-model Ranger? They'd be of the same style and fabric colors, just smaller. Maybe an option worth looking into. Can't wait to see more progress pics and updates! Somewhere, I have some pics of one of my Ranger's interiors. I'll see if I can find it for you.

Here's a pic of my last F100...

TW, it appears you don't want to modify the exterior dimensions of the cab, and I agree completely. The idea is to have the ECO drivetrain in THIS '66 truck, not a stretched or misshapen version of the truck. It seems like the only viable option would be to make a custom dash. It will definitely be a lot of work and you may even need to employ a little design help, but I feel like if your energies were directed that way, you would be on your way to a solution. The other fitment problems in the cab would mostly go away as well, correct?

Space, the final frontier and in a 66, you don't have it under the dash. Back then they didn't have to stuff much up under there, now they do.
Timewarp, I feel for how much you are up against, and how overwhelming it must be. But you cannot take what you feel as negative to heart. It seems to me that Bam is just trying to help in his own way, just like the rest of us. You post here, you are like a public figure, you are going to get good and bad, kiss *** and critical comments. It seems all are just throwing ideas out to you to see what you like or may have to do even if you don't like to get this done faster than your friends 56.
I was thinking that maybe you can make the back wall of the cab, an electronics rack. Relocate all the clutter from under the dash to somewhere it is easy to access. With a cover, it might be able to be hidden. Use a center console to hold some of the controls and as conduit to run the wires as you will have lots of them.

Good news on the lift modification "fix".

Regarding the truck.. I will just ramble a bit here. Hate to see you bail out but it's not my money.

Gut that dash - it's got to be 75% plastic. Probably will lose airbags which ***** but totally different cab volume probably means airbags would be dangerous in smaller cab anyway.

I think the suggested center console idea is a good one (to move some of the electronics and offset some dash space) but it may mean no 3 across seating.

This build has many followers because it is heroic. It remains a great project. I hope you can make it work.

Seeing side by side photos is eye opening. New trucks are huge. Ford could use steel and cut enormous amounts of weight by scaling them down a bit.

One trick that might help save a good amount of space behind the dash, allowing you to move it further forward might be to investigate one of the Vintage Air systems. Some are much more compact than the stock '11 system.

Hey TW, as OHSCrifle said "...Gut that dash..." - get rid of any stuff that you don't want/need (be very, very careful with the air bags though - they go off with a lot of force).
I would imagine that the '11 had hard ABS plastic ducting for the heat/AC, which could be replaced with flexible convoluted hose, etc.
Perhaps a smaller evaporator/box could be used (maybe Vintage Air, Old Air, etc. could supply?) - or move it down lower into the passenger footwell area (passengers don't need all that space ).

Attach a sling to the '11 dash and support the weight of it from overhead with an engine crane, lift, gantry or whatever you have - this will help greatly to make it a one-man operation to position it.
I would also remove most of the existing mounting tabs or brackets from it as well - again to make it easier for you to move it around/tilt it, etc. (weld them or new ones back on once the position is found).

I know that you'd like to keep the '11 seats (and you've invested extra in them), but they do appear to dominate the interior - maybe Wanna Ride's suggestion of looking at some Ranger seats (or similar) would be worth considering?

Sad to hear about the fire engine having to leave.

Don't give up, where there's a will, there's a way.



I just see that Skyline's beaten me to the after-market AC idea
(Obviously, it's taken me about an hour to compose my "essay" )

I am still here, I have a lot of time & $$ that could have been better spent into this truck. There have been many a project's in my day that I have not finished when the going gets tough.

I am just very poor at trying to explain my thoughts and have a lot on the table right now.

I know what I am thinking but when I try to type it out its just not there.
My wife is always on my case about just that. Brain going a zillion directions at once.

There are a few things on this truck that just cannot change.

One of them is location of cab as far as forward and back unless of course I were to stretch the front fenders and hood. At one time I thought of widening the cab 2". If i was able to get a 2" wider windshield I would do just that.
Again not going to go into detail of all the reasons.

So with cab position established it then boils down to cab height.
Again, I have to consider the time it will take and also the expense of doing that.

In the last photo's with floor and dash in cab the floor was just sitting on lip of rocker panel that I left for welding purposes.

To me the ideal height would be the cab dropped down 2" from that point to get the cab further down over the frame.

As others have pointed out it causes a issue with the seat height in cab. Just not going to happen.

Because I am using the '11 firewall that choice has a lot to do with mounting of pedals, Hvac and also because its made of quiet steel. Sound deadening at its finest.

I have already purchased the kick panel area of cab new to weld into the '66 cab and also a spot to mount electronics and mount the dash assy.

Again, Just because I purchase something I "think" will work does not mean I have to use it. At this point its still in the early planning stage.

Now the point of seat position, until just in past few days I have not had the dash and floor in at same time. Its not the back side of cab that is giving me a issue as far as fit. Its all in the dash and firewall. By lengthening the cab or modding it to make seat fit better in back of cab will do the opposite of help. The firewall will be too far away to reach.

The height and depth of dash assy is the main issue.

I do read each and every suggestion many times over and some if not many of those idea's will be in fact used in some form or another. Some I was aware of but just did not mention.

This is way way way over my head as far as construction and most a first for me. Most of my stuff has been stock restorations.

It has been mentioned a few times of using a smaller seat. I will do my best of trying to make these work first. So if I seem to be ignoring those suggestions I am not. The funds are very limited now so I have to take every measure there is no way no how that seat will work before I make the decision to get another. In the end if changing to a smaller seat will make this project move on that is what I will do.

If I have to chop things apart to see if they will work that is route I will take. After I feel and see first hand after everything I can think of or other suggestions I will then take said seat and put it in dumpster!

Something I have not mentioned is how the core support and intercooler etc will all work. By first appearance it flat out will not work.

I feel first up is to get cab mounted to frame but that means getting HVAC to work first.

A few have mentioned using a aftermarket HVAC. From day one my goal has been to use current for a cost stand point and I know how well they work.

If push comes to shove and I can get everything else figured out it is one of the MUST have's is A/C. After cutting and fitting and doing my best with the Stock '11 HVAC if it flat out will not work It will hit the trash also.

I am just rambling here . . .

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Ramble Continued:

The body sheet metal when done has to pretty much look like a base model F100 on the exterior as one would see it driving down the road. Things are going thru my mind of what all needs attention but this cab issue . . . No doubt probably the toughest part of job by a long shot.

I just cannot really think ahead and put things down, I need to be hands on, cut weld fit to see if it works. Most of the time it does not . . . I just start over.

There will be many many things with the truck that will be "Happy Medium's", I have already seen things that I have done and now have a different idea, some will get changes some will get left . . .

A friend actually stopped by for a few hours today and helped me finally get the 4 post hoist into the shop so I would have more space.

I do not remember who as I am typing but someone mentioned using some type lift to lift the heavy dash. Shop was just too crowded to do so. I have now moved the chassis up on top of the new 4 post and have the cab underneath. This has finally allowed me to have a old free wood workbench with casters I can set the dash onto for the next phase. I will also now have room to use the cherry picker to get the dash in and out on my own. Its really frustrating having to count so much on others to get this done. (not freebie labor)

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Ok, anyone up to a few pics now that I rambled for so long? LOL

1st up is a pic of the 4 post after some pretty major mods chopping the height down 5" so I could roll it in and out of shop. I did find out the hard way the casters do not like to move well if I have any weight on it . .

I have no clue if I posted these prior. Bottom of dash to floor pics

Someone mentioned trying to lower the seats to give more room. (see I am listening)

Once I got the bench cleared was able to get the seat set on it for a look-see.

It does appear with a bit of WORK I can lower the seat by just modding the brackets
2 3/4 - 3". That will be a drastic improvement! There is also pretty thick foam on the seat. I can also mod the seat bottom to gain a bit more.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Plan is to move the dash forward approx 2" and as someone mentioned prior to maybe tip the dash to give more "lap" room. I am in middle of trying to figure out how I may do just that. If I raise the dash too much it flat out does not look right.

A few of what I did to make a bit more room to move around and so I could get the cherry picker in and out to lift the dash and other heavy items. The hoist is as far as it will go using upper most safety catch and still being able to get garage door open. Of course when I thought of putting a 4 post in shop to work on the bottom sides I never thought of opening and closing of door! At least I will be in heat and cool when the time arises.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Please excuse the crappy cell phone pics. New phone has been on order for 5 weeks now.
It now is set to automatically upload my cell pics to photobucket. I actually have to plug the better camera into computer and manually do that. Can you imagine the difficulty of that? Lol

Some random pics of cab n dash, seat bottom . . .

Getting late enough for today.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Some pretty major mods done to cab from previous pics. Lets see how many you can spot! The dash looks like it belongs in there . . Until I slide in the floor!

So far with the changes made just today I will have a fair amount more room than a stock
'66 f100/250

Oh yeah a few mods to dash assy too!

I also found a possible solution to the legroom to dash. More tomorrow I am falling asleep at keyboard . .

 

[amlv20]

Sweet the project is back on!! Awesome! This thread is the reason I found and joind GJ.thank you!!

 

[Chateau Slate 66]

Glad to hear you are plugging away at it and making great progress! When it hits -20 degrees here this winter, you could probably twist my arm to give you a hand for a week. HA!