logical
Well-known member
Nicely done!
Let me know if you need a pedestal stand for the grinder.
I just might... send me a PM on what you had in mind... thanks.
let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
I just might... send me a PM on what you had in mind... thanks.
logical
Well-known member
Torqueman, thanks for the help, I didn't get much past the link to find the manual but I see there is a lot out there on both the grinders and the drill press.... just got home so going to go unload the DP now and see what I got myself into.
BTW, I haven't looked yet but if anyone can point me to a source for the RH tool rest I'll be able to say it's complete. I saw some in the classifieds that might be right for it but they are not the part number that the parts list for the 1/4 pre block I have shows.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
You're welcome.
Have you tried eReplacementparts?
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/craftsman-grinder-parts-c-158286_159871.html
If your model number isn't listed or the part is discontinued, try searching 'similar' Block grinder models.
Also; by Brian Kachadurian » Thu Aug 15, 2013 7:34 am
"For maximum grinding flexibility, consider fabricating your own tool rests from 3/16" - 1/4" steel. Here's the one I fabricated for a similar grinder:"
http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=136145&p=917947&hilit=craftsman+grinder+paint#p914533
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Nice score, and so convenient!
What, wait --- you mean this isn't part of the 12 Step Grinders Anonymous Program?!?!
cbacres
Well-known member
Nice score, and so convenient!
What, wait --- you mean this isn't part of the 12 Step Grinders Anonymous Program?!?!
The 12 step program, yes, I'm on my way to 12 block grinders.
I told my co worker some people do chocolate, alcohol , whatever when they get stressed out. I go and buy a block.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
TM and CB: are either one of you up to 12 blocks yet? I've got 3, but quite a few cousins are hanging around.
TM we are still here for you if you need us, because as you know we all need your wisdom. so 2 steps or 12 steps or a partridge in a pear tree off to the Craigslist block shopping store we go.
TM we are still here for you if you need us, because as you know we all need your wisdom. so 2 steps or 12 steps or a partridge in a pear tree off to the Craigslist block shopping store we go.
mcmlvif100
Well-known member
Wish that this one was closer -- 3/4 HP Craftsman commercial block grinder on a crown top stand. Hope that someone from GJ gets it.
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4791424905.html
CRAFTSMAN BENCH GRINDER ON STAND - $100 (WATERFORD)
HI-SELLING MY OLD GRINDER WITH STAND.BOUGHT AT A AUCTION YEARS AGO,AND JUST DON'T USE IT ANYMORE.ALL-METAL NOT PLASTIC! WORKS GREAT! NEEDS A NEW HOME. ASKING $100.00 OBO PLEASE CALL THE PHONE NUMBER IF INTERESTED. THANX AND MERRY CHRISTMAS-SORRY I DON'T KNOW HOW TO ROTATE THE PICTURES-JUST HAPPY I CAN POST THIS AT ALL-LOL
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4791424905.html
CRAFTSMAN BENCH GRINDER ON STAND - $100 (WATERFORD)
HI-SELLING MY OLD GRINDER WITH STAND.BOUGHT AT A AUCTION YEARS AGO,AND JUST DON'T USE IT ANYMORE.ALL-METAL NOT PLASTIC! WORKS GREAT! NEEDS A NEW HOME. ASKING $100.00 OBO PLEASE CALL THE PHONE NUMBER IF INTERESTED. THANX AND MERRY CHRISTMAS-SORRY I DON'T KNOW HOW TO ROTATE THE PICTURES-JUST HAPPY I CAN POST THIS AT ALL-LOL
Attachments
McBrownie
Well-known member
Missing eyeshields and the lamp, but that stand is cool. If you were going to put on aftermarket eyeshields, a lamp, and new bearings, you would have another $50-$60 into it. Oh, and end up with one heck of a grinder, btw. Those 8-inchers are old-school beasts.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Attention: tedsters and bulletpruf !
Aren't you guys looking for a 3/4 HP Block?
Sorry it's too far from me!
Aren't you guys looking for a 3/4 HP Block?
Sorry it's too far from me!
rippered
Well-known member
jakemac
Well-known member
drivesitfar
Well-known member
TM: i'd probably buy a 3/4 if one came up with the heavy duty tool rests like i think that one does. especially if it looked as nice as Big Blue when you finished restoring it for me.
Ripper: dang i was going to say i'd pay your gas if you'd pick it up for me, but you are farther from it than i am. in case you might want a nice original 1/3 HP on one of those stands PM me and i m heading to Olympia Monday AM and i can bring it if you like it and the price.
Ripper: dang i was going to say i'd pay your gas if you'd pick it up for me, but you are farther from it than i am. in case you might want a nice original 1/3 HP on one of those stands PM me and i m heading to Olympia Monday AM and i can bring it if you like it and the price.
jakemac
Well-known member
Old jakemac Donald had a shop, ei, ei, oh.
With a flat top here,
and a round top there,
here a round top, there a pre-block,
ei, ei, ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
I picked up another round top this morning. Not that I need another one, but I JUST HAD TO HAVE THAT STAND. So, now I have 5 (including the pre-block).
1966 1/3hp 6" #397.19580 w/original manual and stand.
It's missing the eye shields and side covers. The quench tray plug and light plug are still intact, so they weren't part of the original purchase.
This one is "Industrial Rated", but doesn't have the exhaust ports. It's in great shape (the paint is a little worn), and runs smooth (45 second run-down with no bearing noise). Even the cord is in good shape.
Since I'm only interested in the stand, this one may be available (someday
). I still need to think about it.
With a flat top here,
and a round top there,
here a round top, there a pre-block,
ei, ei, ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
I picked up another round top this morning. Not that I need another one, but I JUST HAD TO HAVE THAT STAND. So, now I have 5 (including the pre-block).
1966 1/3hp 6" #397.19580 w/original manual and stand.
It's missing the eye shields and side covers. The quench tray plug and light plug are still intact, so they weren't part of the original purchase.
This one is "Industrial Rated", but doesn't have the exhaust ports. It's in great shape (the paint is a little worn), and runs smooth (45 second run-down with no bearing noise). Even the cord is in good shape.
Since I'm only interested in the stand, this one may be available (someday
). I still need to think about it.Attachments
McBrownie
Well-known member
Another Multitool update:
The USPS moved fast and I got my parts from exmaxima1 today. By the way, this is the second thing I have gotten from Matt and his packaging is first rate. He even went to the trouble to put in silica desiccant to make sure the steel part didn't rust, and it didn't.
A little polishing, with the Multitool of course, some paint, new hardware, and here we are. Completion of Phase 2. By the way, I have replaced almost all of the hardware that came with this kit. Most of the original hardware was very low end and I was tired of dealing with it. $10 later and I don't have to deal with it anymore. It is amazing how companies skimp like that.
So, here it is all assembled. You can see the new paint next to the original. Pretty close for off-the-shelf Rustoleum. The belt guard was originally black. I peeled off the sticker, repainted it, and put the sticker back on.
View media item 45798View media item 45797
Here are the dimensions of the spacer. I think you could get by with the thickness anywhere between 3/4" and 1". I split the difference.
View media item 45726
All of the new hardware with some original pieces. The mounting bracket and the big offset washer are original and have surfaces parallel to less than .0005" which is perfectly good. You can see the spacer and the single-split shaft collar that Ex machined up for me to mount on the .667" diameter shaft. The spacer is aluminum, but has some over spray that makes it look like steel. The circlip is pictured, but I'm not using it. In the lower left are six 10-24 flat head screws that will replace ones like the tiny one next to them. The tiny ones are original and are almost like wood screws that self thread into holes in the aluminum drive wheel. These are used to install the side sanding disc and I think would work once - maybe. I spent a few minutes and drilled and tapped the holes for 10-24 screws. Again, skimping by the manufacturer.
View media item 45799
Here is a close up of the single-split shaft collar installed on the shaft. The mounting bracket isn't completely tightened up in this picture which is why it looks a little wonky. The shaft collar has also reduced my drive wheel run out to less than .010". With some adjusting, I might be able to get that a little better.
View media item 45800
This has been a fiddly thing to install, but will be be fairly unique when completed. It definitely is not turnkey on an old 3/4hp block grinder. I'm still glad I got it.
Next is phase 3 which is the re-painting of the motor housings, wheel guards, and base.
The USPS moved fast and I got my parts from exmaxima1 today. By the way, this is the second thing I have gotten from Matt and his packaging is first rate. He even went to the trouble to put in silica desiccant to make sure the steel part didn't rust, and it didn't.
A little polishing, with the Multitool of course, some paint, new hardware, and here we are. Completion of Phase 2. By the way, I have replaced almost all of the hardware that came with this kit. Most of the original hardware was very low end and I was tired of dealing with it. $10 later and I don't have to deal with it anymore. It is amazing how companies skimp like that.
So, here it is all assembled. You can see the new paint next to the original. Pretty close for off-the-shelf Rustoleum. The belt guard was originally black. I peeled off the sticker, repainted it, and put the sticker back on.
View media item 45798View media item 45797
Here are the dimensions of the spacer. I think you could get by with the thickness anywhere between 3/4" and 1". I split the difference.
View media item 45726
All of the new hardware with some original pieces. The mounting bracket and the big offset washer are original and have surfaces parallel to less than .0005" which is perfectly good. You can see the spacer and the single-split shaft collar that Ex machined up for me to mount on the .667" diameter shaft. The spacer is aluminum, but has some over spray that makes it look like steel. The circlip is pictured, but I'm not using it. In the lower left are six 10-24 flat head screws that will replace ones like the tiny one next to them. The tiny ones are original and are almost like wood screws that self thread into holes in the aluminum drive wheel. These are used to install the side sanding disc and I think would work once - maybe. I spent a few minutes and drilled and tapped the holes for 10-24 screws. Again, skimping by the manufacturer.
View media item 45799
Here is a close up of the single-split shaft collar installed on the shaft. The mounting bracket isn't completely tightened up in this picture which is why it looks a little wonky. The shaft collar has also reduced my drive wheel run out to less than .010". With some adjusting, I might be able to get that a little better.
View media item 45800
This has been a fiddly thing to install, but will be be fairly unique when completed. It definitely is not turnkey on an old 3/4hp block grinder. I'm still glad I got it.
Next is phase 3 which is the re-painting of the motor housings, wheel guards, and base.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
McB: your posts are amazing and when you are repairing or restoring or just retro fitting i always learn a thing or two. looking good sir and thanks for being the so called guinea pig to be the first one to do this attachment on a block. looking forward to hearing how it works when you start using it. 
Jake: even though you are maybe running out of floor space i'm betting you will have a different wheel on every bench grinder and you'll barely need to use your hand grinder and change blades again. love the song and i bet the sellers love having you stop by to pick up their tools because you have a good spirit inside you.
Jake: even though you are maybe running out of floor space i'm betting you will have a different wheel on every bench grinder and you'll barely need to use your hand grinder and change blades again. love the song and i bet the sellers love having you stop by to pick up their tools because you have a good spirit inside you.
McBrownie
Well-known member
McB: looking forward to hearing how it works when you start using it.
Well, I've been using it to "fix" it, if that makes any sense.I still stand by my original rating that this is a very nice high-end home owner tool. If it was in constant use, I think it would drive an operator kind of nuts. Each belt tracks a little differently and seems to require adjustment with each use. However, for occasional use, it is a really nice tool. For example, I had to shorten up some of the replacement bolts and it was much easier than working on stone wheels. It ran cooler, didn't "bounce", and didn't try to yank the bolt out of my hands like a stone wheel sometimes can. The rubber contact wheel is smooth - almost soft feeling. It also works faster, but the smoothness is the best part. I also polished up the grinder tool rest mounting rods and it was much faster than wire wheeling and sanding like I have done on some vise handles in the past. So far, so good!
torqueman2002
Well-known member
OK, I have some reading to catch up on; great posts from the quick scan I was able to give them.
Before I nod off, I was asked about how to get a grinder apart when the bearing/shaft(arbor)/housing assembly do not come apart.
This is what I have used. Feel free to comment, improve, suggest other ways.
Look through this thread, that grinder had the most difficult /rusted arbor/shaft.
http://tinyurl.com/Go-Blue-Block-Grinder
I've had good luck with the following method.
1 - soak shaft, housing, and bearing interfaces with penetrating oil of choice and let sit. No need to flood it, just dampen.
2 - support housing between 2 pieces of wood, with threaded portion of arbor/shaft upwards. Leave room below for the full length of the shaft above the housing to move down. If you are able to use a vise, be sure to keep the assembly from getting away from you and dropping to the floor when the arbor/shaft do separate from the housing. Don't close the jaws of the vise on the arbor/shaft or under the bearing.
3 - thread the appropriate nut flush onto the end of the shaft to protect the threads. With a soft face hammer tap on the nut. The object is to keep the housing stationary and drive the arbor/shaft down and away from the housing. The bearing may stay in the housing or may stay with the arbor.
4a - bearing stays on the shaft. Inspect and clean the shaft for rust, nicks, etc ... between the bearing and threaded end of arbor/shaft. Use the same method in step 2 to remove the bearing from the shaft.
4b - bearing stays in the housing. Support the housing with wood, outside of housing facing upwards. Select a socket just smaller than the outer diameter of the bearing, but not as big as the housing opening. Using a soft face hammer, drive the bearing from the housing.
5 - inspect and clean up surfaces of rust, nicks, burrs, ... before reassembly.
Best of luck.
Mike
Before I nod off, I was asked about how to get a grinder apart when the bearing/shaft(arbor)/housing assembly do not come apart.
This is what I have used. Feel free to comment, improve, suggest other ways.
Look through this thread, that grinder had the most difficult /rusted arbor/shaft.
http://tinyurl.com/Go-Blue-Block-Grinder
I've had good luck with the following method.
1 - soak shaft, housing, and bearing interfaces with penetrating oil of choice and let sit. No need to flood it, just dampen.
2 - support housing between 2 pieces of wood, with threaded portion of arbor/shaft upwards. Leave room below for the full length of the shaft above the housing to move down. If you are able to use a vise, be sure to keep the assembly from getting away from you and dropping to the floor when the arbor/shaft do separate from the housing. Don't close the jaws of the vise on the arbor/shaft or under the bearing.
3 - thread the appropriate nut flush onto the end of the shaft to protect the threads. With a soft face hammer tap on the nut. The object is to keep the housing stationary and drive the arbor/shaft down and away from the housing. The bearing may stay in the housing or may stay with the arbor.
4a - bearing stays on the shaft. Inspect and clean the shaft for rust, nicks, etc ... between the bearing and threaded end of arbor/shaft. Use the same method in step 2 to remove the bearing from the shaft.
4b - bearing stays in the housing. Support the housing with wood, outside of housing facing upwards. Select a socket just smaller than the outer diameter of the bearing, but not as big as the housing opening. Using a soft face hammer, drive the bearing from the housing.
5 - inspect and clean up surfaces of rust, nicks, burrs, ... before reassembly.
Best of luck.
Mike
torqueman2002
Well-known member
OK, I added a 3/4 HP Industrial for you to the list.
I wish the 3/4 & 1 HP Industrials were not so far and few between.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Brought this home with me Thursday, thanks Mr. Magoo!
I started a thread for it here.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4441253#post4441253
Thanks for looking.
I started a thread for it here.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4441253#post4441253
Thanks for looking.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Funny, v. funny.Old jakemac Donald had a shop, ei, ei, oh.
With a flat top here,
and a round top there,
here a round top, there a pre-block,
ei, ei, ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
I picked up another round top this morning. Not that I need another one, but I JUST HAD TO HAVE THAT STAND. So, now I have 5 (including the pre-block).
1966 1/3hp 6" #397.19580 w/original manual and stand.
It's missing the eye shields and side covers. The quench tray plug and light plug are still intact, so they weren't part of the original purchase.
This one is "Industrial Rated", but doesn't have the exhaust ports. It's in great shape (the paint is a little worn), and runs smooth (45 second run-down with no bearing noise). Even the cord is in good shape.
Since I'm only interested in the stand, this one may be available (someday
Original manual, WOW. (I have a .pdf file, if you'd like a copy PM me).
Nice score.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Thanks, everyone thanks!
I tried convincing Mrs. Torqueman that it keeps me out of the bars and casinos, but she just busted me for moving the Baldors into the basement.
I keep a spread sheet to track what, where, and when I added the grinders to my inventory (not just Blocks, OMG I do have a problem
).I am even thinking about letting go of a 1 HP flat top (ft) Block. Mind you, just thinking.
Why? Why find a new home for a 1 HP ft Block?
Well, yesterday I added a non-CM 1 HP grinder.
Here's the only picture I have of it so far.
So, all I can offer in my own defense is: it's a Milwaukee. It's 1 HP. It's a monster. It's red. It's an 1800 RPM motor - buffer candidate?? It makes whirring, spinning, wonderful sounds! And, last & not least - it's a GRINDER.
1 HP CM ft Block & 1 HP Milwaukee
Link to post in: "Show us Your Vintage Bench Grinders!!!!" thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4443375&postcount=461
Last edited:
torqueman2002
Well-known member
I know I'm quoting my own post, please forgive me.
I realized, after searching for another topic, that the below list needs updating.
3b - Some housings/castings have a shoulder/ridge on inner edge of bearing mounting. The bearing must be removed with the housings/casting. Therefore, the surface of the arbor/shaft must be smooth and free of obstructions. Inspect and clean the shaft for rust, nicks, etc ... between the bearing and threaded end of arbor/shaft. Go To 4b, below.
{Link: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4399344&postcount=1}
I realized, after searching for another topic, that the below list needs updating.
3b - Some housings/castings have a shoulder/ridge on inner edge of bearing mounting. The bearing must be removed with the housings/casting. Therefore, the surface of the arbor/shaft must be smooth and free of obstructions. Inspect and clean the shaft for rust, nicks, etc ... between the bearing and threaded end of arbor/shaft. Go To 4b, below.
{Link: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4399344&postcount=1}
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Thanks to FrankLee for the heads-up on the 1/2 HP flat-top (ft) Block m-397.19340 last week.
It is now in good company with a number of it's cousins.
Anyway, Mrs. Torqueman is a good wife, but even another Block grinder is too much.
First refusal goes to u118224. I'm waiting to hear back from him. But, I offer up the latest CM Block.
Here it is after a quick wipe-down with Simple Green.
For more pics. follow this link. --> http://tinyurl.com/CM-half-HP-Block-397-19340-M
Price is $50, plus FedEx pack & ship from 48334. PayPal.
Thanks for looking.
I heard back from u118224. Sale is pending.
It is now in good company with a number of it's cousins.
Anyway, Mrs. Torqueman is a good wife, but even another Block grinder is too much.
First refusal goes to u118224. I'm waiting to hear back from him. But, I offer up the latest CM Block.
Here it is after a quick wipe-down with Simple Green.
For more pics. follow this link. --> http://tinyurl.com/CM-half-HP-Block-397-19340-M
Price is $50, plus FedEx pack & ship from 48334. PayPal.
Thanks for looking.
I heard back from u118224. Sale is pending.
Last edited:
drivesitfar
Well-known member
TM: is that all your blocks you haven't restored? if you spiffed them all up shiny i bet MRS. TM would like looking at them on a shelf. or since you are helping members by passing them on and letting them spiff them up how about putting them in the trunk of that car under the cover and maybe putting a couple blankets on them?
as always nice posts.
as always nice posts.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
drivesit - Although I need to thin the heard, most are 1/2 and under, and not sought after like the 3/4 & 1 HP Blocks.
So, I am left with the enjoyable task of freshening up a few select ones and putting them on eBay. (A 1st for me, a long time buyer, never a seller.)
I'm not sure of the time frame, as painting this time of year is a real challenge in Michigan.
Thanks for the encouragement.
So, I am left with the enjoyable task of freshening up a few select ones and putting them on eBay. (A 1st for me, a long time buyer, never a seller.)
I'm not sure of the time frame, as painting this time of year is a real challenge in Michigan.
Thanks for the encouragement.
McBrownie
Well-known member
I told ExMax this in PM. For me, the line of demarcation is the 1/2hp cap-start with that and anything bigger getting my attention. I know, I have become a Block Snob. Is there a 12-step program for block-snobbery?
drivesitfar
Well-known member
TM: i have the same issues because i don't have any heat in my garage/shop (yet). i'm thinking about making room for this for preheating and then putting freshly painted items back in it on warm. also with the burner on the back left thinking i might put some water in the pot and keep on low heat to set my rattle cans in. of course heat and a spray booth would be awesome, but not in the cards (yet).
can you move your sandblast cabinet to get a dedicated shop oven? no cooking in it and don't use the family's oven for paint guys because as Outlaw mentioned on a post a few weeks ago the fumes might get in your food.
can you move your sandblast cabinet to get a dedicated shop oven? no cooking in it and don't use the family's oven for paint guys because as Outlaw mentioned on a post a few weeks ago the fumes might get in your food.
Attachments
bczygan
Well-known member
Grinder Stand in Detroit suburb (Walled Lake) $30.
http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/4796060799.html
http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/4796060799.html
drivesitfar
Well-known member
McB: it's ok to want a bigger and more powerful block grinder or any tool for that matter. i think that is the way we learn so budget is sometimes a good thing. how many stories have you heard where a 16 year old son gets a brand new Porsche or Dad's spiffed up car in the garage and then drives it into a tree and never sees his 17th birthday.
some of us were driving what ever we could afford and it was usually a huge hunk of metal that sucked gas like it was water on a hot day. then when we hit something we had a little more protection to keep us alive.
now back to my point. i would put my 1950's pre-block Craftsman with a 1/4 HP up against every 1/2 HP import if there was a test we could do. 1/3 HP blocks are plenty of power for a homeowner and anything above that is a bonus. sure if you do a lot of wire wheeling good old rusty US steel you want all the power you can afford or find.
I'm not sure our "block" or maybe tool vice is a 12 step and the only things that keep us from buying better tools is maybe because we can't find the tool or sometimes a lack of cash.
what do you think of my oven idea guys?
cheers
some of us were driving what ever we could afford and it was usually a huge hunk of metal that sucked gas like it was water on a hot day. then when we hit something we had a little more protection to keep us alive.
now back to my point. i would put my 1950's pre-block Craftsman with a 1/4 HP up against every 1/2 HP import if there was a test we could do. 1/3 HP blocks are plenty of power for a homeowner and anything above that is a bonus. sure if you do a lot of wire wheeling good old rusty US steel you want all the power you can afford or find.
I'm not sure our "block" or maybe tool vice is a 12 step and the only things that keep us from buying better tools is maybe because we can't find the tool or sometimes a lack of cash.
what do you think of my oven idea guys?
cheers
jakemac
Well-known member
I'd worry less about fumes in my food and worry more about a rolling pin up against the side of my head.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I'd worry less about fumes in my food and worry more about a rolling pin up against the side of my head.
That would certainly be noticed quicker!
Drives, as long as its electric, and you have space I'd go for that. You can use the top for stuff too, including coffee, in that case!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
It even comes with tool storage and a work surface! 
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Breaking News Alert - CM grinder stand on CL Pittsburgh, 2 hours ago. $25! 
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/4796161760.html
Someone go get it, please.
Edit: Better act quick, this other CL lister has been looking for a stand for weeks now.
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/4783350625.html
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/4796161760.html
Someone go get it, please.
Edit: Better act quick, this other CL lister has been looking for a stand for weeks now.
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/4783350625.html
Last edited:
McBrownie
Well-known member
Drives,
Agree on the comparison of blocks and today's consumer or even "professional" grinders (I'm looking at you Sears/Craftsman). However, take a look at the future of bench grinders. This is not cheap by any means, but what a tool:
http://www.trick-tools.com/T8-Tradesman-3-Variable-Speed-Tool-Grinder-T-8-7603#.VIYVjzHF-y4
By the way, do you already have 220v in your garage for the stove?
jakemac
Well-known member
Breaking News Alert - CM grinder stand on CL Pittsburgh, 2 hours ago. $25!
It just makes you wanna cry.
Why don't I see ads like that near me ?
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jake: i hid the wife's rolling pin years ago because she is part Irish if you get my drift. thanks for the heads up. forget about the original stands and maybe put a couple blocks on a Huot roller sort of like Brent did on his pair of toolbox rollers a few months ago.
Outlaw: i do like the old oven/range as a multy tool idea. i can make ice tea on it since i drink about 2 gallons of it every day. i was wondering if i could mount a block grinder on top of the over to the right of the burners. that might look pretty cool.
McB: I do have a 220 that a prior owner used for a big compressor in the garage/shop i lease so all i'd have to do would be is to change the pigtail on the oven or the plug and i'm set. i kinda like the old oven look and i think that stove is the same early 60's late 50's like our blocks.
By the way McB this is your first warning. don't put any more links of $1,500 grinders on our block thread. Baldor buffers are tough enough not to buy. Is a Canadian grinder an import???
All: what's with all these cheap old Craftsman grinder stands showing up without a block on top of them?
Outlaw: i do like the old oven/range as a multy tool idea. i can make ice tea on it since i drink about 2 gallons of it every day. i was wondering if i could mount a block grinder on top of the over to the right of the burners. that might look pretty cool.
McB: I do have a 220 that a prior owner used for a big compressor in the garage/shop i lease so all i'd have to do would be is to change the pigtail on the oven or the plug and i'm set. i kinda like the old oven look and i think that stove is the same early 60's late 50's like our blocks.
By the way McB this is your first warning. don't put any more links of $1,500 grinders on our block thread. Baldor buffers are tough enough not to buy. Is a Canadian grinder an import???
All: what's with all these cheap old Craftsman grinder stands showing up without a block on top of them?
torqueman2002
Well-known member
PM sent.I told ExMax this in PM. For me, the line of demarcation is the 1/2hp cap-start with that and anything bigger getting my attention. I know, I have become a Block Snob. Is there a 12-step program for block-snobbery?
McBrownie
Well-known member
TM,
I sent a PM back. Sorry if I misled you, but I'm not in the market at the moment. I blew my tool budget for the remainder of 2014.
Drives,
The one I posted was only $1300 and change. Here is your $1500 Canadian Import:
http://www.trick-tools.com/T8-MT362-Tradesman-Multitool-Grinder-Combo-T8-MT362-7604#.VIY_tjHF-y4
Now I have met the criteria of my first warning and will never do this again.
I sent a PM back. Sorry if I misled you, but I'm not in the market at the moment. I blew my tool budget for the remainder of 2014.
Drives,
The one I posted was only $1300 and change. Here is your $1500 Canadian Import:
http://www.trick-tools.com/T8-MT362-Tradesman-Multitool-Grinder-Combo-T8-MT362-7604#.VIY_tjHF-y4
Now I have met the criteria of my first warning and will never do this again.