let's see your craftsman block grinders

[whitedogone]

Picked up some lowes 5/8 gromments....fail....maybe I got the wrong ones....don't know.

 

[torqueman2002]

McBrownie,
Apparently you are unaware or wish to ignore certain copyright laws by defacing original publication photos. I as a model citizen googled that image and was able to get permission to repost this image. The author was kind enough to email original studio shots of the original conceptual design. Below is proof I'm full of s%$#.

You guys are killing me!

 

[McBrownie]

Picked up some lowes 5/8 gromments....fail....maybe I got the wrong ones....don't know.

Here is what you need. I think some members have ordered online at Lowes and do an in-store pickup to avoid making a trip for nothing. Also, I believe Ace carries these. Search this thread for "Hillman" and you'll find more info.

View media item 40451

 

[whitedogone]

I'll try again....thanks!

 

[jakemac]

I just order the Dayton 6-pack from Zoro, and get 2 extras to put in my parts bin.
It saves me from having to be disappointed by Lowes' lack of stock options.

 

[thursday]

Tried using hockey pucks to keep my grinder from walking away from me. The hockey pucks turned out to be a marginal improvement. So I cut out a piece of plywood and glued a antifatigue mat to the bottom. Much more surface area and works wonderfully.

 

[rickhigginshtbr]

How about the worklight, says 30w max. What about a brighter one....say led.

I've been running a CCFL in mine with no issue... though I never noticed it saying "30 watt max" either, whoops...

McB & ALL: some of us really liked McB's Black and Decker workmate grinder stand and i just found an accessory for him and us. in case we need a flat top i'm sure we all could have thought of this, but pictures always help me so posting it here.

That's pretty brilliant! Now I may actually keep mine

I'm not a photoshop guy either, but somehow I feel better now.

View media item 46092

 

[tomd]

Why are these called 'block' grinders instead of bench grinders? It even says bench grinder on in the plate of many of these.

 

[jakemac]

It's the shape of the motor housing.

 

[tomd]

I'll buy that, thanks

 

[Cypherian]

I guess I have a block as well. It has been sitting in a box in the attic of my garage for the last 10 years. It has always seemed to vibrate quite a bit since new. Maybe I should try to figure out what's wrong with it if anything.

Dang that sounds like it will be non repairable I can get rid of it for you if you want :}

Cypher

 

[pendragon1998]

Just wanted to mention that my little post on rubber feet was the result of googling through this thread and not from first hand info.

 

[Pupuhd]

Tried using hockey pucks to keep my grinder from walking away from me. The hockey pucks turned out to be a marginal improvement. So I cut out a piece of plywood and glued a antifatigue mat to the bottom. Much more surface area and works wonderfully.

I've been using the same mats from HF for years under by grinder stand, works great. Not cut like yours, just down to a square larger than the base and thrown on the floor. Great idea, details and execution.

I always had a concern about the hockey pucks. I mean they make excellent feet for a table/base without an excessive vibrating machine mounted to it. But hockey pucks were designed to glide across ice. IMHO, they wouldn't make a suitable anti-vibration isolation foot for a heavy vibrating machine like a grinder or such machine.

I "see" said the blind man to the deaf man as he picked up his hammer and saw.

 

[Outlawmws]

Pup, I've seen hockey pucks used as anti vibration solutions in many many places, including in 4X4 rigs for body spacers.

 

[Leadberry]

I got into mine tonight after work. a few observations:

1. The shafts have little runout (no more than .001)
2. The armature doesn't have any end play or radial play
3. The armature does not spin as freely as I would think (but no "bad"bearing feel) just bearing drag.
4. The "cooling" fins on the armature seam to have a huge amount of "out of Round-not centered" when spinning the shaft. About 1/8" at least. Is that normal?

Is there any need to take the armature to a motor shop and have them balance it? It just really seams to vibrate a lot more than other quality grinders I've used. Also, anybody have a link to decent wheels? How about the worklight, says 30w max. What about a brighter one....say led.

If the grinder is still vibrating without any wheels attached, then I would look into that. However, try it without wheels first. I've never heard of anyone needing to balance the armature.

I feel like I need to take a moment to mention that the rotor in an induction motor is not an armature. Technically, the stator windings are both field windings and armature windings.

 

[exmaxima1]

Is there any need to take the armature to a motor shop and have them balance it? It just really seams to vibrate a lot more than other quality grinders I've used.

I'm curious just how much a shop would charge to balance a rotor assy. Seems like it would be more than a block grinder is worth.

 

[exmaxima1]

.

I always had a concern about the hockey pucks. I mean they make excellent feet for a table/base without an excessive vibrating machine mounted to it. But hockey pucks were designed to glide across ice. IMHO, they wouldn't make a suitable anti-vibration isolation foot for a heavy vibrating machine like a grinder or such machine.
.

Agreed. Hockey pucks are hard as a rock, and way too hard to isolate a lightweight grinder. You need something with a much lower durometer, such as Sorbothane isolator pads:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IMJ3S2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Another source would be to cannibalize an old record turntable---those feet were designed to absorb vibration, and might handle the weight of a block grinder.

 

[McBrownie]

I feel like I need to take a moment to mention that the rotor in an induction motor is not an armature. Technically, the stator windings are both field windings and armature windings.

What should we be calling it? A rotor?

 

[Leadberry]

What should we be calling it? A rotor?

Yep.

 

[whitedogone]

Yep.

Thanks

 

[Leadberry]

Heads up if anyone's interested. Was checking out my local CL and noticed this 3/4 HP Flat-Top...for $20. It looks like it even comes with all the little bits that are normally missing. It's in Mansfield, OH. I'm sick and don't really feel like driving out there, but I figured someone here might be interested.

http://mansfield.craigslist.org/tls/4805401995.html

 

[McBrownie]

Heads up if anyone's interested. Was checking out my local CL and noticed this 3/4 HP Flat-Top...for $20. It looks like it even comes with all the little bits that are normally missing. It's in Mansfield, OH. I'm sick and don't really feel like driving out there, but I figured someone here might be interested.

http://mansfield.craigslist.org/tls/4805401995.html

Someone from Ohio hurry up and get that before TM swoops down from up north and steals it from us.

 

[torqueman2002]

Someone from Ohio hurry up and get that before TM swoops down from up north and steals it from us.

That IS within my swooping range!

I eMailed 2 of the members on the Want List. I hope one of them is able to ****** it up.

I'd be headed down there for it (to get it for a GJ'er), but I got some bug in the germ pool that Delta calls an airplane last week end!

Somebody please get it.

 

[tedsters]

Heads up if anyone's interested. Was checking out my local CL and noticed this 3/4 HP Flat-Top...for $20. It looks like it even comes with all the little bits that are normally missing. It's in Mansfield, OH. I'm sick and don't really feel like driving out there, but I figured someone here might be interested.

http://mansfield.craigslist.org/tls/4805401995.html

Someone from Ohio hurry up and get that before TM swoops down from up north and steals it from us.

That IS within my swooping range!

I eMailed 2 of the members on the Want List. I hope one of them is able to ****** it up.

I'd be headed down there for it (to get it for a GJ'er), but I got some bug in the germ pool that Delta calls an airplane last week end!

Somebody please get it.

Thanks torque and leadberry for posting i grabbed it

 

[drivesitfar]

Tedsters: we have a great group here don't we? nice score on that 3/4 HP for $20 because it should clean up nicely.

TM: thanks for the heads up and i hope you feel better.

 

[McBrownie]

Thanks torque and leadberry for posting i grabbed it

Congratulations on that big 3/4hp. Same price I paid for mine (before I dumped a whole bunch more into it. ) But, I love it. I'm glad it went to a GJ member. Are you planning on giving it "the treatment"?

 

[tedsters]

Tedsters: we have a great group here don't we? nice score on that 3/4 HP for $20 because it should clean up nicely.

TM: thanks for the heads up and i hope you feel better.

Congratulations on that big 3/4hp. Same price I paid for mine (before I dumped a whole bunch more into it. ) But, I love it. I'm glad it went to a GJ member. Are you planning on giving it "the treatment"?

Thanks Guys, yea i plan on cleaning it up and giving it a makeover starting Dec 23rd i will have 9 days off and i have all kinds of things to get done around here, this is a fantastic site a few members have steered me towards some good purchases

 

[Goldhawg]

Not a 3/4 hp, but here is one for $30 in Dayton:
http://dayton.craigslist.org/tls/4809990983.html

 

[McBrownie]

Here is a question. The first picture is from a Block that Torqueman posted a while back. It is a model 397.19670 but does not say "Industrial Rated".

View media item 46144
Here is mine with the same model number, but does say"Industrial Rated".
View media item 44807
Anyone have a clue when they stopped or started using the "Industrial Rated" term? Does this make my Block better than TM's?

 

[pendragon1998]

What should we be calling it? A rotor?

Here is a parts diagram from an older pre-block grinder with the actual names of the various parts. If you search out a manual for a more recent grinder, it would probably have any updated parts listed, if you are interested.

 

[pendragon1998]

Although, if this gooseneck is the same length, I'll just repaint it and replace the original. Phase 3 just keeps growing in scope!

View media item 46094

I'm curious what technique y'all are using to paint your goosenecks. Since it flexes, I've been assuming that any paint job I do will look like **** the first time I move the neck. I was just going to settle for de-rusting mine and hitting it with floor wax over the bare steel, but if there's a good way to paint it, I'd rather do that.

 

[Leadberry]

Thanks torque and leadberry for posting i grabbed it

You're welcome...I'm glad you were able to snag it.

Here is a question. The first picture is from a Block that Torqueman posted a while back. It is a model 397.19670 but does not say "Industrial Rated".

View media item 46144
Here is mine with the same model number, but does say"Industrial Rated".
View media item 44807
Anyone have a clue when they stopped or started using the "Industrial Rated" term? Does this make my Block better than TM's?

I'm pretty sure the Industrial Rated and Commercial designations are the same thing. My early 60's block is an Industrial, whereas my early 70's block was a Commercial. I'm guessing your block is from around the time they switched over. Late 60's right?

 

[jakemac]

I'm curious what technique y'all are using to paint your goosenecks. Since it flexes, I've been assuming that any paint job I do will look like **** the first time I move the neck. I was just going to settle for de-rusting mine and hitting it with floor wax over the bare steel, but if there's a good way to paint it, I'd rather do that.

I'd just run it on a buffing wheel.
I'm kinda curious about the paint as well.

 

[McBrownie]

I'm pretty sure the Industrial Rated and Commercial designations are the same thing. My early 60's block is an Industrial, whereas my early 70's block was a Commercial. I'm guessing your block is from around the time they switched over. Late 60's right?

I believe mine is late 60's. The only thing that resembles a date is a casting mark on the bottom of a tool rest that says "11/67". Since mine has the cast base, it did not have a bottom galvanized plate. I was just curious. Thanks!

 

[McBrownie]

I'm curious what technique y'all are using to paint your goosenecks. Since it flexes, I've been assuming that any paint job I do will look like **** the first time I move the neck. I was just going to settle for de-rusting mine and hitting it with floor wax over the bare steel, but if there's a good way to paint it, I'd rather do that.

I've painted two so far. I wire wheel them, wipe them down with lacquer thinner to get any rid of any oil and spray paint them. I haven't any trouble with chipping or flaking.

 

[gregthor]

Same here about the gooseneck paint. For the grinder I did on post 3382
I ran scotch brite over it, then prep-all (auto body paint prep) and then a very light coat of paint. It seems to be fine. During use you actually move the gooseneck very little and each individual "winding" of the gooseneck moves very little.

 

[McBrownie]

Same here about the gooseneck paint. For the grinder I did on post 3382
I ran scotch brite over it, then prep-all (auto body paint prep) and then a very light coat of paint. It seems to be fine. During use you actually move the gooseneck very little and each individual "winding" of the gooseneck moves very little.

Greg,

Do you still have that awesome B&D stand from post #222?

 

[gregthor]

Greg,

Do you still have that awesome B&D stand from post #222?

Yes, but sadly the last time I turned it on was the day I posted it on post #222.
At the time I was on a mission to aquire 3 bench grinders with stands to restore/repaint and give one to each of my 3 sons at Christmas. But finding 3 good grinders with stands was a problem. My sons are 6 foot plus and they all want HP!!! I taught them bad habits like "more is better even if you don't need it" and with cars "faster is always better!!" I guess apples don't fall to far from the tree. I can find 3 phase grinders with stands and harvest the stand and scrap the 3 phase grinder but those 3 phase grinders are often big and therefore the stand is too short with a block grinder for my 6' 4" son. I am still looking for stands though.

ps - I really would hate scrapping out an old USA grinder just because it is 3 phase....I know me and I would keep it forever...

ps - Tedsters has the same B & D stand. I tried to buy his but he said no but I did get his Chas Parker 974 1/2 vise.

 

[torqueman2002]

Here is a question. The first picture is from a Block that Torqueman posted a while back. It is a model 397.19670 but does not say "Industrial Rated".

View media item 46144
Here is mine with the same model number, but does say"Industrial Rated".
View media item 44807
Anyone have a clue when they stopped or started using the "Industrial Rated" term? Does this make my Block better than TM's?

So, what you're saying is you don't want to trade.

Man, there's so many variations of these great Blocks, it is a challenge to keep track of them.

About the Commercial & Industrial label.
'General speaking, the commercial grinders are rated for industrial use and dual voltage. The non-commercial grinders are usually single voltage 6" and some 7" for homeowner use.' per: Brian Kachadurian on OWWM.

 

[torqueman2002]

Tedsters: we have a great group here don't we? nice score on that 3/4 HP for $20 because it should clean up nicely.

TM: thanks for the heads up and i hope you feel better.

You're welcome!

Glad our scouts alerted the forum and a believer has saved another Block from a questionable future!