torqueman2002
Well-known member
Oh noooooooooo!TM, There is a tool rest for a 677 on eBay too and it's already in Michigan. It was meant to be.
Show us Your Vintage Bench Grinders!!!!
- Thread starter 48James
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
Thank you! That's the kind of help a guy with a grinder problem needs.
Thank you, again.
Fretters
Well-known member
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Ouch, tough crowd here in the ... Vintage Bench Grinders thread.*****.
Here's part of the reason I need help:
That's not including the 2 Milwaukees I posted above.
I'm reducing inventory, by order of the Marshall. (aka - Mrs. Torqueman).
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Pupuhd
Well-known member
OK. Be honest. Who does NOT wish this grinder was theirs?
Ok, not as big but on New Years Eve, I picked up a vintage 12" United States Electrical Tool Co pedestal grinder 2HP, 3ph complete for $225 plus 5 new 12"x2" grinding wheels. Will transfer over my existing VFD from my 12" Cincinnati to power this one. And yes, I stared at the CL ad photo for a month before I took the plunge.
I "see" said the blind man to the deaf man as he picked up his hammer and saw.
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dngrmse
Well-known member
That thing is HUGE! But I gotta ask; what's with the label?
Ouch, tough crowd here in the ... Vintage Bench Grinders thread.
Here's part of the reason I need help:
That's not including the 2 Milwaukees I posted above.
I'm reducing inventory, by order of the Marshall. (aka - Mrs. Torqueman).
Hmmm sixteen grinders?
Let's see I have
9 blocks (none bigger than 1/2 hp)
8" Chinese Craftsman
2 Baldors
2 USA made Daytons
3 USA made Black and Deckers's
That's 17! I win LOL!
And I probably have one hiding I forgot about LOL.
No Mrs Bluebolt they don't take my phone calls anymore after seeing my place......
Fretters
Well-known member
Hell, there's empty floor space in front of that compressor. Plenty of room to fit another grinder.
If I recall the rough price of grinding stones correctly, (read that as meaning that I seem to recall 12" stones being **** puckeringly expensive
), they alone are worth quite a bit more than what you paid for everything. Sounds like you got an absolute bargain there. He calls it a 623 which is a 6" Baldor 1/3 HP grinder and the exact same model # as mine. It's in way better shape than mine, both tool rest and side covers and parts of the eye shields.
Nice job on your Baldor! I see it does not have side shields do the guards have mounting holes for them?
jwitt
Well-known member
Here are a couple that I picked up a while back. The Craftsman 1/2hp looked barley used, I've since put it to work. The old B&D needed a cord, which I replaced, is smooth as silk just not pretty.
Jim
Jim
Pupuhd
Well-known member
The seller had labels on the machinery he had listed on CL, don't know why. I've removed the label since I took a photo. Either way I hooked up the VFD to it and started right up, very smooth and quiet also.
Like my other 12" Cincinnati, this one at some point in its life was re-worked/rewound from 2 phase to 3 phase. The brass label has been restamped for the phase, voltage & amps.
Don't know if it was common practice after such a change to turn the motors around with the brass labels facing the rear.
Fretters
Well-known member
That's the problem with those ****** grain crops. Can't keep their fingers off owt.
Nice grinders. That B&D is a cutie.
Pupuhd
Well-known member
If I recall the rough price of grinding stones correctly, (read that as meaning that I seem to recall 12" stones being **** puckeringly expensive
New 12" wheels in the $200 neighborhood each. I'll be removing the current ones that are worn down to 10" with two of the new ones.
I thought about that idea or an A/B switch. However the shop is getting too crowded so I'll be selling the 12" Cincinnati. Already have an 8" Baldor grinder for wire/buffer setup and 6" Craftsman block grinder for sharpening setup.
I "see" said the blind man to the deaf man as he picked up his hammer and saw.
Strouty
Well-known member
I thought I would add my new grinder/bet sanders to the mix. One isn't really that vintage, but it is a nice baldor and I know Nines is partial to them.
McBrownie
Well-known member
Strouty
Well-known member
Thanks, I thought it was a great deal at $175, then the seller tells me he has 30 new belts for it!
McBrownie
Well-known member
That stand alone could go for $175. Nice job!
Strouty
Well-known member
I don't think it would do it any justice to refurbish it, it just looks industrial and it works great. It will fit right in at my shop and I will have it for a long time.
jholder
Active member
All,
Still working slowly on my restoration. I'm a little stumped by the way the placards are attached to the body of my grinder (See pics)... If I had to guess I'd say they were blind rivets... but I'm not entirely certain that is something that makes sense? Maybe a slightly convex hole that, when you pound the rivet down it expands to fill the cavity? Any thoughts on how to reattach the placards once they're off?
Still working slowly on my restoration. I'm a little stumped by the way the placards are attached to the body of my grinder (See pics)... If I had to guess I'd say they were blind rivets... but I'm not entirely certain that is something that makes sense? Maybe a slightly convex hole that, when you pound the rivet down it expands to fill the cavity? Any thoughts on how to reattach the placards once they're off?
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Fretters
Well-known member
The rivets used for tags are usually the spiral type.
McBrownie
Well-known member
That is what I was thinking too. Kind of like spiral flooring nails, except I think the rivets are tapered. I have only dealt with them once, but I think I very carefully twisted them out with pliers like they were screws.
jholder
Active member
Fretters
Well-known member
Yup. Do a search for either spiral rivet, drive rivet or drive screw, and you should find a photo of one. The hole is drilled slightly narrower in diameter than the flute width, so they bite into the metal when they're pressed in.
Aye, sometimes you can get them out that way. Depends how firmly they're in, what type of metal they're driven into and whether there's any corrosion holding them. I usually try first off with something like a Stanley knife blade gently tapped in width ways behind the tag, underneath the rivet, and see if I can gently pry the corner up. If the rivet starts moving before the label starts bending or tearing, they'll usually come out quite easily. Sometimes though, it can be a case of drilling the heads off to remove the tag and then drilling the other part out. Not always the easiest of things to do with complete success.
Aye, sometimes you can get them out that way. Depends how firmly they're in, what type of metal they're driven into and whether there's any corrosion holding them. I usually try first off with something like a Stanley knife blade gently tapped in width ways behind the tag, underneath the rivet, and see if I can gently pry the corner up. If the rivet starts moving before the label starts bending or tearing, they'll usually come out quite easily. Sometimes though, it can be a case of drilling the heads off to remove the tag and then drilling the other part out. Not always the easiest of things to do with complete success.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
There's a spiral type?
It's basically the fastest pitch self tapping drive screw you ever saw. very short, maybe 3/16" long, and of course no drive system to remove...
I've used a "sacrificial" wood chisel (sometimes two...) to catch the edge and get them started, then pliers to twist and pull. I can usually re-use them. They can be bought at McMaster and the like.
Fretters
Well-known member
Sounds like you're like me. I think my cheapo set of wood chisels have only ever sniffed wood once. The rest of the time they've been used as wedges, levers etc.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
My first "wood" chisels were bought for working on cars and metal...
jholder
Active member
454ragtop
Well-known member
Strouty, nice score on the Porter Cable, have the same one, although I'm pretty sure mine still has the original motor. One of my favorite sanders/grinders. use it almost every day. I ended up grafting a piece of steel to the table, so as not to wear the cast iron away any more.
Good luck, Jim
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Hmmm, that looks to be decently built. I wonder if something is ailing it that could be fixed?
fullthrottle24
Well-known member
Yup. Do a search for either spiral rivet, drive rivet or drive screw, and you should find a photo of one. The hole is drilled slightly narrower in diameter than the flute width, so they bite into the metal when they're pressed in.
Aye, sometimes you can get them out that way. Depends how firmly they're in, what type of metal they're driven into and whether there's any corrosion holding them. I usually try first off with something like a Stanley knife blade gently tapped in width ways behind the tag, underneath the rivet, and see if I can gently pry the corner up. If the rivet starts moving before the label starts bending or tearing, they'll usually come out quite easily. Sometimes though, it can be a case of drilling the heads off to remove the tag and then drilling the other part out. Not always the easiest of things to do with complete success.
I removed drive rivets from my craftsman name plate by using a dremel w/ a cutoff wheel to make a slot, which can then be removed with a screwdriver. Learned that one from someone else here at GJ.
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
Yep. Might want to make sure you have a correct slotted screwdriver or bit. I use ones from the Chapman kit. The sides are flat instead of -V- shaped. That way you don't cam out. Only get one chance with those suckers.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002IT4WU/?tag=atomicindus08-20
.
try oiling the bearings up and see how it workss
+1
Iron motor end bells, iron rests, and it looks like nice one-PC wheel washers (the quality type with integral bushings that hold them square). That grinder is worth refurbishing.
getting close to having the the 10in rockwell done blasted everything have all the cast pieces painted glad i had a pair of donor lights on a 7in i had on the bench, gonna put a not so crude looking power switch back on and one thing i am glad i did not do was already go buy the wheels for it, the spec sheet for the rockwell 10' grinder say it has 3/4 inch shaft this motor by Baldor has a 7/8 shaft big difference i would have been stuck with a pair of wheels i could not use
beltdrive
Well-known member
I love the belt drive stuff! Here is one of my favorite vintage wire brush / grinder pedestals (probably 1950's Dunlop)...I have several of them with different speeds and different wheels, all for different applications...some more aggressive than others. I put this together and added the switch which lights up when the motor is turned on. THis one is nice for cleaning up weird or large shaped objects when a wheel cover or tool rest would only get in the way...this has neither.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
BD: nice little grinder and i bet it works great. is the motor a Walker Turner or do tell because it doesn't look like a Dunlap?
by the way i noticed it's your first post so welcome and post more pictures of your old gems where you can.
by the way i noticed it's your first post so welcome and post more pictures of your old gems where you can.
Hi! Just bought my very first grinder (still a student) at a flea market, dirt cheap for €10. It's a Hanning, made in Western Germany, which means it's older than me and classifies as a vintage in my book
Googled around for a bit but there's not a lot of information around about these grinders. Hell, the search function on GJ for 'hanning' came up empty, does this brand even exist?!?
I'm very new to all this, but I've been reading. Before firing it up, I removed the discs and did a 'ring test'. Well, there really was no ring whatsoever, but it seemed to me that these small, thick discs would never produce a real ring. So I opened it up, reconnected the ground wires and started it from a safe distance. Worked beautifully and coasted for a long time after shutting off.
Anyone has some more info on this grinder or additional tips before I start messing around with it? Do you think it's useful, given it's small size and power? Appreciate all comments!
Googled around for a bit but there's not a lot of information around about these grinders. Hell, the search function on GJ for 'hanning' came up empty, does this brand even exist?!?
I'm very new to all this, but I've been reading. Before firing it up, I removed the discs and did a 'ring test'. Well, there really was no ring whatsoever, but it seemed to me that these small, thick discs would never produce a real ring.
So I opened it up, reconnected the ground wires and started it from a safe distance. Worked beautifully and coasted for a long time after shutting off.Anyone has some more info on this grinder or additional tips before I start messing around with it? Do you think it's useful, given it's small size and power? Appreciate all comments!
