With some heat and an impact screw driver, 3 of 4 jaw screws were successfully removed. The last one is being stubborn and most of the head material was carved away by the impact, so I need to venture out tomorrow and find some left hand drill bits.
With some heat and an impact screw driver, 3 of 4 jaw screws were successfully removed. The last one is being stubborn and most of the head material was carved away by the impact, so I need to venture out tomorrow and find some left hand drill bits.

ALL: so i have one of my favorite vises that is a Wilton Baby Bullet that has a power arm and a clamp. it works great but the primer coat and dull jaws and main screw hub need a little color and shining up. so my question to you all is what color might look best on a small vise i use almost daily?
Nines: up early i guess for now because sick old furry friend is on her last days and woke me up a few hours ago. i usually get up at 4am anyway so might as well stay up and get some GJ posts in before the day gets busy.
Make it the best days or hours of its life. Been there done it several times.
The great thing about the hobby store paint is that it comes in all sorts of colors. I would pick something unique - metal flake. We've seen enough verde green.Since it is lacquer it drys fast and can be covered with my favorite - Rustoleum Crystal Clear enamel. It is wearing really well. Better than the Rustoleum hammered that used to be on there.
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That big *** bolt that holds the swivel to the base. The one with the screw driver head, where people slid a metal in the slot and used a vise grips to turn it. How do repair the threads on that bolt. The threads don't seem standard.

I decided to remove the swivel pin from my 6" American Scale. I first tried a 3/8 Jack Screw and I noticed it was pushing the jaw and body apart. The pin was stuck in the top jaw portion and free in the main body. I wasn't liking that so out come the old pipe clamps. There is only a small ridge of metal on the interlocking grooves inside so I didn't want to put to much pressure on it. You can see from the pictures what I rigged up to keep the two pieces together.
I moved up to a 1/2 jack screw and tightened until I thought something was going to break. I gave the pin a tap on the side and it just came out with a crack & pop !! Free Free Now I have to work the jaw back & forth to get all the rust out of it.
Any tips for cleaning up the anvil area on my Wilton? I assume on the flat surface a hand file seems appropriate, but not so sure on the best way to remove/reduce some of the dings along the edges??

I love those last photos. You won't ever find my Riley far from a tennis ball. My arm is sore pretty much all day from throwing it.
Great idea. Always wanted to pick up a belt sander and now I have a good excuse. The width should not be a huge issue with this 3 inch Wilton, but thinking ahead I will get a larger one. Now onto some online searching. Thanks once again to GJ for spending my money
Any recommendations? Although my use would be limited, I am not going the HF route.
belt sander is what I generally use for that.
Belt sanders work very good but you have to be careful, being a little off canter can make a simple job into a nightmare. The choice of grits, and bumping a shoulder are also issues. Not everyone has a surface grinder in their basement. This old #3 Wilton had missmatched jaws and the anvil had some dings, my surface grinder made easy work of both issues. What grit do you guys use with your beltsanders? i am sure some would like to know, my guess would be 60grit.
MTesh: any chance you can show a few pictures of your modified belt sander and B&D workmate? did you see McB's Blockmeister that he mounts on his B&D workmate? sound like it works and nice job restoring your Wilton C2.
Fretters might say a hand file is best....