sberry
Banned
I don't know about the splice connectors but I tighten them down and come back an hour later and snug them again.
Proper torque for aluminum conductors
- Thread starter BlownSilverado
- Start date
OP
BlownSilverado
Member
Here's what #2 aluminum looks like after being torqued to 100 in-lbs.
130 in-lbs
J-box cleaned up and terminated...
130 in-lbs
J-box cleaned up and terminated...
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
That doesn't look too bad,I still don't see a bushing though.
toplessHO
Well-known member
not sure about those pics of the aluminum wire
Im guessing that lug is not approved for al
and should have a pressure plate on it.
Im guessing that lug is not approved for al
and should have a pressure plate on it.
awdblazer
Well-known member
where is the penetrox?
Aceman
Well-known member
I'd also like to know if the lug you used is rated for aluminum or not. Any pics of it?
This is modern aluminum wire, it's not required.
This is modern aluminum wire, it's not required.
awdblazer
Well-known member
modern aluminum wire? wtf? never heard of that one before
Aceman
Well-known member
Taken from Southwire's installation guide:
When terminating aluminum conductors, there are several practices one should be aware of to ensure a quality connection that will remain trouble free.
1) Always use a connector that is listed for use with aluminum wire.
2) The following is recommended but not required. Always follow the connector manufacturer’s
instructions
a. The surface of the conductor should be wire-brushed to break any aluminum oxide
barrier leaving a clean surface for the connection.
b. The use of anti-oxidant compound, joint compound, is not required unless the
connector’s manufacturer requires it. However, the use of a listed joint compound is
always a good practice.
3) Always tighten set-screw type connectors to the manufacturer’s recommended torque.
4) Most importantly, do not re-torque the terminations as part of routine maintenance. As
with copper conductors, repeated tightening of any set-screw connections can result in the
eventual “biting” through the conductor causing the termination to fail.
http://www.southwire.com/commercial/AluminumBuildingWireHistory.htm
When terminating aluminum conductors, there are several practices one should be aware of to ensure a quality connection that will remain trouble free.
1) Always use a connector that is listed for use with aluminum wire.
2) The following is recommended but not required. Always follow the connector manufacturer’s
instructions
a. The surface of the conductor should be wire-brushed to break any aluminum oxide
barrier leaving a clean surface for the connection.
b. The use of anti-oxidant compound, joint compound, is not required unless the
connector’s manufacturer requires it. However, the use of a listed joint compound is
always a good practice.
3) Always tighten set-screw type connectors to the manufacturer’s recommended torque.
4) Most importantly, do not re-torque the terminations as part of routine maintenance. As
with copper conductors, repeated tightening of any set-screw connections can result in the
eventual “biting” through the conductor causing the termination to fail.
http://www.southwire.com/commercial/AluminumBuildingWireHistory.htm
OP
BlownSilverado
Member
This is a greaves insulated splice, model usad2-2, and they are dual rated cu9al. I've also put aluminum oxide inhibitor on the stripped conductors as extra insurance.
The connectors come pre-filled with their own oxide-inhibitor, and when you back out the lug to insert the wire, I'm guessing some compound gets into the threads, therefore lubricating the threads which requires less torque to reach the proper wire clamping force. The copper conductors I used with these connectors torqued down like a champ, no issues there. Aluminum is not as dense, so I used less torque on the wrench for the aluminum conductors (100 inch-lbs).
http://www.greaves-usa.com/pdfs/Power Dist. 51-61.pdf
The connectors come pre-filled with their own oxide-inhibitor, and when you back out the lug to insert the wire, I'm guessing some compound gets into the threads, therefore lubricating the threads which requires less torque to reach the proper wire clamping force. The copper conductors I used with these connectors torqued down like a champ, no issues there. Aluminum is not as dense, so I used less torque on the wrench for the aluminum conductors (100 inch-lbs).
http://www.greaves-usa.com/pdfs/Power Dist. 51-61.pdf
Since around the early 1970's AL conductors have been a aluminum alloy to counteract the most infamous problems of older aluminum conductors, and a anti-oxidant is not required unless the manufacturers instructions call for it, that being said, I use it.
awdblazer
Well-known member
well thats news to me
i work for the local utility and we have about 90% aluminum and every connection has penetrox if it doesnt we can tell when we take it apart
i work for the local utility and we have about 90% aluminum and every connection has penetrox if it doesnt we can tell when we take it apart
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
What about the screw type lugs on factory made equipment like underground fed metering cabinets, pans, etc?
None of these come from the factory with any oxide inhibiting compound.
Do you apply it in the field? (The POCOs here don't)
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toplessHO
Well-known member
I will answer that and yes its applied to contact surfaces.
Here in Fl we use compression as much as possible,kinda takes the guess work out of
did I torque it good enough.
If it does need torqued a torque stick is used. Aluminum will last if treated properly.
But Im not a fan of it. FYI we couldnt afford to use copper on high tension lines for several reasons
Here in Fl we use compression as much as possible,kinda takes the guess work out of
did I torque it good enough.
If it does need torqued a torque stick is used. Aluminum will last if treated properly.
But Im not a fan of it. FYI we couldnt afford to use copper on high tension lines for several reasons
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
Even when I'm terminating copper wire with aluminum lugs, I use a little bit of Noalox on the inside of the lug's threads.
It acts as a lubricant to smooth out the natural tendencies with aluminum lugs to "stick" in place and then let go all at once.
It acts as a lubricant to smooth out the natural tendencies with aluminum lugs to "stick" in place and then let go all at once.
I do that also, but this thread has got me thinking about it's effect when torqueing the lugs, lubrication of the threads can change things.