Duct Tape Man
Well-known member
That's not PLOMB, that's PLUMB. Two different companies.
Hammer time!
- Thread starter Outlawmws
- Start date
Motown
Well-known member
Thanks for the info, the "U" in the stamp was a little hard to read.
Yetihunter
Well-known member
What's the general consensus of these hammers? I have only had them a week or so but I really like them a lot. From left to right they are 8 lb, 2.5lb, 24 oz. The 2.5 feels really well balanced.
The owners at the store near me dropped the other sledge hammers (US brands...forged in..somewhere on earth...) once the Wilton proved to outsell the others, 100 to 0.
I'm glad I only use girlie mitten sized hammers these days, I couldn't afford a sledgehammer that didn't outright ****.
They're not for me, but I've heard nothing but good things about them.
Yetihunter
Well-known member
Ready for work
I've never hung an axe before, but I'm book smart in it enough to say you did a great job.
GINIK
Well-known member
Thank you.
Yes, I'm using the same method as for an axe.
I have done it a few times on axes as well, but that's for an other forum.
The trick is following:
Dry wood is important. I store my handles indoor before use.
Make a tight fit of the handle in the eye.
I use outdoor wood glue for the wedge (different schools here, but this is how I make it, and it works fine for me).
Let the handle stick out a few mm ( Will self lock, because of the larger size outside the eye).
I rarely use a metal wedge (Only when I get a bad fit.
).It's not necessary to make the handle stick out on small hammers.
You will have a tight fit anyway.
But for the larger hammers I would recommend it.
Carves
Well-known member
Had a hammer day today.
... had to ....... as the last serviceable BP finally cracked its old handle ..
They're nothing real flash or desirable like some have posted - just my handyman/general use gear.
BPs and claws, are all brit ones from years ago ... rest are a mix of good, bad and uglies.
New handles for a few, some grinding and filing, some face smoothing, and sanding for others, and a coupla keepsakes/paperweights - went to the electrolysis bucket.
Nowwww ... If I can just remember who "borrowed" my brass/plastic one ... I can finalise the new shadowboard, and be a happy little vegemite.
.
... had to ....... as the last serviceable BP finally cracked its old handle ..
They're nothing real flash or desirable like some have posted - just my handyman/general use gear.
BPs and claws, are all brit ones from years ago ... rest are a mix of good, bad and uglies.
New handles for a few, some grinding and filing, some face smoothing, and sanding for others, and a coupla keepsakes/paperweights - went to the electrolysis bucket.
Nowwww ... If I can just remember who "borrowed" my brass/plastic one ... I can finalise the new shadowboard, and be a happy little vegemite.
.
GINIK
Well-known member
I have some new hammers I’m hoping someone can provide some info on. Most of them are fairly common but theres a couple with only a logo stamp that look interesting and it would be great to get more info on. Those are #’s 1, 3, 8 and 9.
#1 - This hammer has an unusual head with a raised bolster at the lower eye where the handle goes in. It has the #2 cast where the weight info goes on the lower neck. The only other mark on the head is the symbol on one cheek. It has a bit of taper to the main head. There is some lettering along the handle which only a few letters are recognizable. See photos.
#2 - Is a Vaughan which we see a lot of. It’s interesting how they all have those circular machining marks around the head.
#3 - This German made hammer has 2H s and then a symbol with the coo, Germany stamped under it. Underneath where the weight stamp is is either a 6 or a 9 which ever way you look at it. Also of interest is the end of the handle which is cut in a rounded off fashion, I don’t know if that is original or not.
#4 - A Plumb
#5 - A Stanley
#6 - Another Plumb
#7 - A Brades
#8 - A Cheney cross Pein
#9 - C.F. Saltley So far I found a reference to a Saltley Works in 1882 england that made railway cars etc.
#1 - This hammer has an unusual head with a raised bolster at the lower eye where the handle goes in. It has the #2 cast where the weight info goes on the lower neck. The only other mark on the head is the symbol on one cheek. It has a bit of taper to the main head. There is some lettering along the handle which only a few letters are recognizable. See photos.
#2 - Is a Vaughan which we see a lot of. It’s interesting how they all have those circular machining marks around the head.
#3 - This German made hammer has 2H s and then a symbol with the coo, Germany stamped under it. Underneath where the weight stamp is is either a 6 or a 9 which ever way you look at it. Also of interest is the end of the handle which is cut in a rounded off fashion, I don’t know if that is original or not.
#4 - A Plumb
#5 - A Stanley
#6 - Another Plumb
#7 - A Brades
#8 - A Cheney cross Pein
#9 - C.F. Saltley So far I found a reference to a Saltley Works in 1882 england that made railway cars etc.
The Four Pounder Club (ie: also pronounce - Club For Pounding)
None of these hammers have any markings. The 1st 2 in the last photo came from a widow at a flea market. Note the hard suface treatment to the one in the middle. The last one on the right I got from an 80 something year old carpenter who said it was his fathers and he'd just put a new handle on it. All & all they make a nice set.
None of these hammers have any markings. The 1st 2 in the last photo came from a widow at a flea market. Note the hard suface treatment to the one in the middle. The last one on the right I got from an 80 something year old carpenter who said it was his fathers and he'd just put a new handle on it. All & all they make a nice set.
RivennHewn
Well-known member
GINIK
Well-known member
GINIK
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PWRstroke_smoke
Well-known member
Champion DeArment 3lb ball peen
stamped S P Co which i think is southern pacific co RR I have a cold chisel marked the same way.
Stilletto Ruger Titanium 14oz I love this hammer got it off craigslist for nothing and put a new handle in it with the original round wedge and it is a real workhorse
2 tier hammer rack made from reclaimed oak pallet wood. I have been re-hanging my grandfathers blacksmith hammers still have a bunch to go.
Most have the anchor Y P symbol, or anchor brand plumb inside of an anchor seen in last pic
stamped S P Co which i think is southern pacific co RR I have a cold chisel marked the same way.
Stilletto Ruger Titanium 14oz I love this hammer got it off craigslist for nothing and put a new handle in it with the original round wedge and it is a real workhorse
2 tier hammer rack made from reclaimed oak pallet wood. I have been re-hanging my grandfathers blacksmith hammers still have a bunch to go.
Most have the anchor Y P symbol, or anchor brand plumb inside of an anchor seen in last pic
GINIK
Well-known member
Nice hammers guys and nice work! PWRstroke_smoke -I really like the look of the re-purposed pallet - hammer rack. It would be nice if you could blend that fresh wood to match the old grey boards though. Great idea and it holds a sledge hammer too!
GINIK
Well-known member
Most have the anchor Y P symbol, or anchor brand plumb inside of an anchor seen in last pic
These hammers are OLD.
Check this out.
Attachments
This^
PWRstroke_smoke
Well-known member
I might sand the grey wood down a little and see if some of the grey sands away, then apply a stain or just linseed oil, not totally sure what I will do yet. any tips are welcomed!
very cool i just found some more information online. thank you for pointing me in the right direction. since these are older than I though they were probably my great grandfathers originallyThese hammers are OLD.
Check this out.
If you sand them they will lighten up color wise quite a bit. I like to use Johnsons floor wax paste for pallet wood, (unless it touches food, then I use the cheapest vegetable oil and beeswax) just smear it on with a rag and your done. It is cheap and works to keep rust off metal too. The color of the wood will stay close to the original only a little darker.
I actually like the grey for that old look but I'm not sure how long you'd have to leave it in the sun for the rest of it to turn grey. If you use a paint scraper you can scrape a lot of the grey off pretty quick. Bleach will work too.
Good research work there Ginik. Those hammers are treasures. Got any old photos of gramps in his blacksmith shop?
Good research work there Ginik. Those hammers are treasures. Got any old photos of gramps in his blacksmith shop?
PWRstroke_smoke
Well-known member
Thank you for the tips I will post up pics after I mess with it this weekend
I do have a picture of him and all of his buddies from the early 50's their clothing and hair styles are awesome. he looks so young and fit in the picture I never knew him that young he looks so much like my dad and my uncles!
this is the first one i have ever seen, it has a really cool nail setting function with a magnet that holds the nails in place it actually works well and the magnet is extremely strong for how small it is.
I know that is what people use but I don't like having petroleum distilettes (cancer causing agent) and food products together. Vegtable oil does break down over time ,but with things like cutting boards they are constantly being cleaned, and reoiled ( if properly cared for). Bacteria can't grow in oil unless there is other stuff mixed in and it is left to fester. Even then if the board is cleaned with vinegar and dried the bacteria will be killed.
To each their own though.
There are a lot of products and ingredients that are in food that has been classified safe. It takes decades of testing to see the results of cumulative toxins to surface. The modern food and drug testing agencies are overloaded and don't always test to the fullest extents. If you look at US history you will see there are many hazardous food/drug products that were assumed safe for years...rootbeer(from sassafras roots), Lysol, hot mercury...
I am not a doctor or a chemist I doubt you are either Outlawmws. The best I can do is google search to find other article that say there are concerns with the cumulating mineral oil in our bodies. I have read other articles that are more specific about food grade mineral oil but have lots them in search overload and don't really want to search all day for them (and mess up the great hammer thread !) http://www.greenmedinfo.com/article/mineral-oil-parrafins-bioaccumulate-human-body-fat-and-breastmilk . veg oil does the same things but without the risks so that is enough for me.
Hmmm, nothing in that article indicates ANY risk, just (extrteamly low) accumulation, possibly from ingestion (If so, far more likely from the food source itself, not transference from a cutting board to the food IMO).
As to your suggestion of "without the risks" you just have different risks. Known risks at that; from food poisoning. Once out of the bottle, there is no such thing as a "Pure veggie oil" as it combines with food and other contaminants and becomes over time rancid and a potential breeding ground for bacteria, and can cause food poisoning.
Food poisoning is nasty stuff, and HAS killed many people, and is often mistaken for "the flu" , so is under diagnosed (by both dr's and people that "self diagnose"). So you do what you want. but I'll avoid the more obvious risk of food poisoning...
I'm done.
As to your suggestion of "without the risks" you just have different risks. Known risks at that; from food poisoning. Once out of the bottle, there is no such thing as a "Pure veggie oil" as it combines with food and other contaminants and becomes over time rancid and a potential breeding ground for bacteria, and can cause food poisoning.
Food poisoning is nasty stuff, and HAS killed many people, and is often mistaken for "the flu" , so is under diagnosed (by both dr's and people that "self diagnose"). So you do what you want. but I'll avoid the more obvious risk of food poisoning...
I'm done.
GINIK
Well-known member
Indexmill
Well-known member
This is my current collection of Tor ball pein hammers (I have some duplicates as well).
One day I will have all sizes of the Mjölner (Yes, I know it sounds stupid. I don't need them all).
This type of hammer is my first choise, when I work in my garage.
Hi,
Does anybody know where to purchase TOR ball pein hammers in the USA? I really like them but can't find them here.
Thank you, Indexmill.
JMLangford
Well-known member
Here's what I could round up tonight....I've got others just couldn't find them
Lastly, my little chisel knocker (I really think it belongs in a kitchen
)
Lastly, my little chisel knocker (I really think it belongs in a kitchen
)GINIK
Well-known member
Hello Indexmill
The company was sold to Hultafors in 1992.
All Tors hammers were made in Sweden (Torshälla/ Eskilstuna).
The earlier Hultafors hammers were made at the same place, but in 2008, all producton was closed down in Torshälla and moved to China.
They are still high quality hammers, but not as good as the old TOR.
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GINIK
Well-known member
What does need have to do with it?
Nice collection!
Thank you Outlaw
I'm both user and collector of old tools.
That's my excuse for having more tools than I need.