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The VISES of Garage Journal

jim

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wi
Thanks Outlawmws!! Were Dunlap vises USA made? Any age info? 1960? Jim
 
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oldldh

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Fairhope, AL
Re: Dunlap vise info please

Bought this vise at a garage sale. paid $5. I am working on my second YOU ****. 3.5 inch. Can anyone tell me about it. How old is it? Are all Dunlap vises made in the USA? It does not say " Made In USA" anywhere. Should have taken some pix before I took it apart to clean it. Thanks Jim

As our Chief Referee, Outlaw, should have pointed out to you...:confused:

Self suckage, although damn difficult, AIN"T ALLOWED!!!...

Keep trying...:lol_hitti

$ 20.00 "Snap-on/Wiltons"...:beer::thumbup::drool:

Do...

However...

Provide major suckage!!!:evil::lol:
 

twertsy

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Jan 5, 2014
Messages
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Location
Reedville, VA
Re: Dunlap vise info please

As our Chief Referee, Outlaw, should have pointed out to you...:confused:

Self suckage, although damn difficult, AIN"T ALLOWED!!!...

Keep trying...:lol_hitti

$ 20.00 "Snap-on/Wiltons"...:beer::thumbup::drool:

Do...

However...

Provide major suckage!!!:evil::lol:

Thanks............can someone please take a look at the "Wilton disassembly" thread and help me out? Thanks!!!
 

Outlawmws

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I was thinking he was working on the Dunlap and he had gotten suckage somewhere else. Maybe not...

Lots of badly phrased posts this AM... Hangovers anyone? :evil:

Dunlap were mostly made in the USA; at least one model was made in England as we all learned recently in this thread.
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Pacific Northwest
Dutch: most Morgan vises have been made for Uncle Sam (US government if you are not familiar with that name on your side of the pond). that said not sure what the badge with the K stands for. is it brass or aluminum? I think Morgan vises are as well built as any old US made vise and glad to see you have one now to compare against all your old English vices.

Twertsy: one of our members just posted that he bought an almost new version of your Snap On made by Wilton vise for $350 which is a decent buy for a 6 inch combination Wilton Tradesman vise. so even after you buy the jaws from KMScott you still did pretty fair at $20 even if your vise is smaller. unless you can prove you are able to do self suckage i agree with the rules committee (Outlaw and Oldie seem to be acting as co chairman currently) that you are not allowed to brag. what # is yours and the width of the jaws?

also AE Numan restored a Snap On Wilton Tradesman like yours in post #946 on the vise repair 101 thread and in a few posts before that he showed how to change the pins holding the vise nut in place with ones that can screw in and out which is a nice upgrade that Wilton should really start doing on their new vises.

Jim: I'll take a guess that your Dunlap is a late 50's or early 60's made in USA open screw vise. Sears sold those so you might find a catalog page that will show you if you want to do a little more searching in the Craftsman vise thread Outlaw started a year or two ago.

Silver: i forgot to welcome you to GJ and specifically to the vise thread so welcome and BEE CAREFUL because if you hang around here those vises in your area tend to find their way into your garage even if you already have a couple. BTW if you want a few ideas on building a nice heavy duty and maybe movable steel table take a look at some of the pictures in my welding table thread and link is in my signature. also this vise and grinder stand thread has a lot of great ideas if you need a few more.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252799

Joe: are 90% of all the Prentiss 58's still around sitting in shops of your clients? good luck and i hope you can save it if only for parts if it's broken or welded.
 
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drivesitfar

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TJ: of course i forgot to mention your new finds of buying a Wilton C1, C2 and C3 vises yesterday. some of us look to buy one of those and don't have much luck finding any. i have yet to see a Wilton C3 in person so hopefully you didn't have to take out a second mortgage on your home to buy them. Flowers might be in your wife's future before she happens to find them sitting on your shop's bench.

very nice group and i'd love to see the Prentiss #98 next to all three and especially next to the C3. since that group weighs about 700 pounds i'll wait until you are up to task of lining them up or after you build a bench to hold them all.

cheers
 

dutchgray

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Sep 28, 2014
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Dorset. England.
drivesitfar
The K badge is actually part of the casting, it looks like an applied badge but isn't.
It likely being US government property would explain how it got here, we have a fair few US air bases here.
 
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drivesitfar

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Twertsy: my bad if you weren't the one trying to self ****. BTW what model is your Snap On and how wide are the jaws? any more pictures and maybe close ups of the missing jaw areas so maybe we can help you figure out the fix if you need a little help? or post in the vise repair 101 thread and we can have that information over there. nice find and you might make a nice set of aluminum jaws for your $20 vise if you don't want to buy a new more expensive set.

Dutch: any of the US bases start with a K? i got one of my Morgans off a aircraft carrier just before they scrapped it. i think Morgan took over the Wilton government contract after WWII which i heard almost bankrupt Wilton. so the older Morgan vises were probably sold just to the public.

ALL: didn't we determine that Wilton was a copy of the York vice or where did we end on that subject? so the older York vices don't have the vice jaw measurement on their sides?
 
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dutchgray

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drives
Don't think there were any bases beginning with a K.
Its a very nice vise though, just a shame American vises are rare here, otherwise I would be able to buy a lot more.
 

twertsy

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Reedville, VA
Twertsy, +1 on the aluminum jaws.



Serrated are for when you really want something to stay, but don't care if it goes marked. I really like aluminum, it has the surface area to grip pretty well but doesn't mark most things.

I bought 4 8" pieces for $12 shipped, that's 3 bucks a pair!
I think I might do that. I have a bunch of aircraft aluminum scrap that I can mill and cross-hatch on the CNC
 

twertsy

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Hmmm, I have considered it but never seen them cross hatched before. I think they would be too soft and just mash in. The aluminum makes up for it's softness in surface area being flat.

That being said, I have never tried it and don't let me stop you! I am curious but just put on a fresh pair yesterday.

I think I'm going to try "flat top pyramid" style cross hatches.....a tad larger than normal. Pretty sure the aircraft aluminum wont crush.
 
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Outlawmws

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Hmmm, I have considered it but never seen them cross hatched before. I think they would be too soft and just mash in. The aluminum makes up for it's softness in surface area being flat.

That being said, I have never tried it and don't let me stop you! I am curious but just put on a fresh pair yesterday.

Depends on the grade of aluminum. The harder grades should hold up quite well.
 
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GETRIDAONE

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Auburn, GA
A side by side comparison of a Parker 978 and the Prentiss 98 I got a few weeks ago. The Prentiss seems larger in every way except for length and height. The Parker is about 2" longer & 1.5" taller. I am surprised that there is only 17 lbs. difference. Prentiss 315 lbs. (I added 6 lbs. for the missing jaws) Parker 298 lbs. I thought the picture of the slide on the hand truck showed just how large it is. I pressure washed the whole thing to get the partial white paint job off along with what seemed like a whole tube of copper anti seize lube & old dry grease.
 

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twertsy

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Guys, what's a decent price on a Yost #103 in good shape? Is $75 too much? Thanks! I have lots of vises (and vices) but honestly just learning. Thanks again!
 

KMScott

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Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
I think I might do that. I have a bunch of aircraft aluminum scrap that I can mill and cross-hatch on the CNC

If it were me I would use 7075 T6 aluminum for your jaws, there is other makes of hard aluminum but this stuff is the easiest and cheapest to get. Serrations would not be a good idea using aluminum. If you have a machine then make your jaws out of Pre Hard Steel like P-20 28-34 R/C or make it out of A2 which you can get real easy on e-bay and send them finished to me and I will add them to one of my heat treat runs real cheap. I have drawings for all Wilton Bullet vise jaws and would be happy to share the one you need. PM me if I can help.
 

arthur6569

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Mar 27, 2015
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Upstate N.Y.
This little guy followed me to my shop today :dunno: I think GJ made my disease much worse. Can anyone give me some info on this Columbian Hdwe , has 5" jaws and opens to 9"+ . I can't find any numbers on it.
 

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drivesitfar

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Arthur: if your new Columbian vise didn't say so on its side I'd swear it was a Prentiss swivel jaw vise. I'm curious about more information on its history too. Nice looking vise.
 

McBrownie

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Cleveland, OH
A side by side comparison of a Parker 978 and the Prentiss 98 I got a few weeks ago. The Prentiss seems larger in every way except for length and height. The Parker is about 2" longer & 1.5" taller. I am surprised that there is only 17 lbs. difference. Prentiss 315 lbs. (I added 6 lbs. for the missing jaws) Parker 298 lbs. I thought the picture of the slide on the hand truck showed just how large it is. I pressure washed the whole thing to get the partial white paint job off along with what seemed like a whole tube of copper anti seize lube & old dry grease.

Get,

Nice comparison with a couple of brutes. I would be interested to see the bottom of the dynamic slides. In one of the old Parker advertisements, they made note of the fact that Parkers are solid under the dynamic jaw and others are hollow. I know my Parker 974 and 203 are solid and my Prentiss 19 is hollow to get the shaft "castle nut". I would be interesting if the big ones are the same way.
 

trijeff

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Jan 21, 2015
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Northern Cali
TJ: of course i forgot to mention your new finds of buying a Wilton C1, C2 and C3 vises yesterday. some of us look to buy one of those and don't have much luck finding any. i have yet to see a Wilton C3 in person so hopefully you didn't have to take out a second mortgage on your home to buy them. Flowers might be in your wife's future before she happens to find them sitting on your shop's bench.

very nice group and i'd love to see the Prentiss #98 next to all three and especially next to the C3. since that group weighs about 700 pounds i'll wait until you are up to task of lining them up or after you build a bench to hold them all.

Drives: no can do, the P98 is in the e-tank right now. I had never seen a C3 in person either, it's quite a bit bigger than I thought.

One bummer is I missed a local Reed 406 on a stand for $100 when I was on the road .... DAMMIT!! Really want a swivelin swiveler.
 
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arthur6569

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Mar 27, 2015
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Upstate N.Y.
Arthur: if your new Columbian vise didn't say so on its side I'd swear it was a Prentiss swivel jaw vise. I'm curious about more information on its history too. Nice looking vise.
As I walked up to it I thought it was a Prentiss as well. Thanks , I agree it is a beauty!
Columbian Hardware 405 is the number you are looking for

Thanks bigcaddy ,any idea where the number should be??
 

454ragtop

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Mar 24, 2008
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Location
Carver, MA
Question on the wrench for the Parker 436 combo vise, is it a no.3 wrench? Hex bolt measures 1-1/16". Of course, I have a couple spare no. 2 wrenches, but they're too small. Anybody have an extra they want to swap or sell? I picked up a Vlchek 1-1/16" combo wrench at the swap meet, probably end up cutting the open end off and using that.
The vise is coming along pretty well, stripped all the old paint off, and have started to repaint. The handle hole in the screw was bell mouthed, so I used an adjustable reamer to open it up to take a 3/4" rod, and will make a new handle out of that. Couple in progress pics.
Jim
 

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zkling

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I think I'm going to try "flat top pyramid" style cross hatches.....a tad larger than normal. Pretty sure the aircraft aluminum wont crush.

Well as long as it is aircraft grade, maybe spring for billet? :lol:

Do as you like, but simple and very versatile. Aluminum jaws, one with a vertical V cut, other with a horizontal V cut.
 

joe.striper

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agawam, ma
Got a call tonight for a "baby" bullet. Turned out to be a 'toddler ' bullet, 2.5". Guy wants $200, which is too rich for me. Also had this 4.5" Athol, problem is it is welded to a steel plate along with a pipe vise, he wanted 150 for that, again, too rich.

i'll take another run at him tomorrow

I also posted pics of my York 125 I paid $20 for a couple weeks ago
Nice clean vise
 

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jrobb316

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May 18, 2014
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WI
Question on the wrench for the Parker 436 combo vise, is it a no.3 wrench? Hex bolt measures 1-1/16". Of course, I have a couple spare no. 2 wrenches, but they're too small. Anybody have an extra they want to swap or sell? I picked up a Vlchek 1-1/16" combo wrench at the swap meet, probably end up cutting the open end off and using that.
The vise is coming along pretty well, stripped all the old paint off, and have started to repaint. The handle hole in the screw was bell mouthed, so I used an adjustable reamer to open it up to take a 3/4" rod, and will make a new handle out of that. Couple in progress pics.
Jim

It uses a #4 wrench.
 

drivesitfar

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Joe: your Athol (soon to be a Starrett) has a swivel static jaw and a swivel base so even though you have a plethora of quality vises to choose from $150 isn't unreasonable and still a good deal (for most of us that already have a few vises).

GET: do you hook up your pressure washer just to clean up a vise or is that just part of the driveway cleanup job. in any case thanks for posting 500 pounds of vises side by side. which do you like better assuming the Prentiss was in same condition?

Rag: not sure what you did to remove that handle so care to share the process over on the 101 repair thread?

TJ: sorry for your loss on the $100 swivel jaw Reed 406 which is on my short list too. good luck on the next one(s).
 

twertsy

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If it were me I would use 7075 T6 aluminum for your jaws, there is other makes of hard aluminum but this stuff is the easiest and cheapest to get. Serrations would not be a good idea using aluminum. If you have a machine then make your jaws out of Pre Hard Steel like P-20 28-34 R/C or make it out of A2 which you can get real easy on e-bay and send them finished to me and I will add them to one of my heat treat runs real cheap. I have drawings for all Wilton Bullet vise jaws and would be happy to share the one you need. PM me if I can help.

Thanks Scott. I got her all torn down and can hopefully clean it up, powder and get her back together this afternoon. I'll ponder what I'm going to do regarding jaws.

Well as long as it is aircraft grade, maybe spring for billet? :lol:

Do as you like, but simple and very versatile. Aluminum jaws, one with a vertical V cut, other with a horizontal V cut.

The stuff I have is incredibly strong. I have many different size/shape pieces some 10-15 lb. hunks even. I'll try pieces of those for jaws and see how it works out.
 

joe.striper

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agawam, ma
Joe: your Athol (soon to be a Starrett) has a swivel static jaw and a swivel base so even though you have a plethora of quality vises to choose from $150 isn't unreasonable and still a good deal (for most of us that already have a few vises).

GET: do you hook up your pressure washer just to clean up a vise or is that just part of the driveway cleanup job. in any case thanks for posting 500 pounds of vises side by side. which do you like better assuming the Prentiss was in same condition?

Rag: not sure what you did to remove that handle so care to share the process over on the 101 repair thread?

TJ: sorry for your loss on the $100 swivel jaw Reed 406 which is on my short list too. good luck on the next one(s).

Yeah the issue is the Athol is welded to the steel plate. I'd have to grind it off.
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Pacific Northwest
Joe: if the grinding doesn't hurt the vise maybe you'll get a discount for bringing your hand grinder or using his to take the vise off the table. i bought a Ryobi 18v hand grinder so i can cut steel without power, but this Athol looks like it's in a big shop or garage with power and maybe a big hand grinder laying around. good luck and since you have so many vises and plenty to choose from you are in a great spot.
 

ChargerRT

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Apr 20, 2015
Messages
152
Location
Louisville, KY
Hey guys I got the dust cap back for my Wilton 825 that vintage made me per KM's drawings... I'm new to Wiltons so tell me if this looks right
To me it looks way too small
 

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vintage nut

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west coast of canada
If it were me I would use 7075 T6 aluminum for your jaws, there is other makes of hard aluminum but this stuff is the easiest and cheapest to get. Serrations would not be a good idea using aluminum. If you have a machine then make your jaws out of Pre Hard Steel like P-20 28-34 R/C or make it out of A2 which you can get real easy on e-bay and send them finished to me and I will add them to one of my heat treat runs real cheap. I have drawings for all Wilton Bullet vise jaws and would be happy to share the one you need. PM me if I can help.
What sort of heat treating set up have you got? I deal with quite a bit of A2 and O1, and also some stainless for knives. My oven is an evenheat kf22.5 with rampmaster. I was going to get a smaller one, but the Canadian supplier only had a $150 price difference between the tiny 110v one and this, so I got the big guy.
Glad I did actually, as I have already hardened the longest thing that will fit! A2 spring hardened limbs for a roughly medieval style crossbow.

I was thinking A2 for jaws, so I'm glad I happened to think of what the pro uses!

you can never have too many tools
 
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