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The VISES of Garage Journal

Nuts

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Baker City, Or
I finally finished my first vise resto/mod. For paint I went with Rustoleum hammered black, Rustoleum Regal Red and Rustoleum Metallic Silver. I need to get my garden shed done so I can put this little guy to work. In case you haven't seen how the turd used to look I included the before pics. Enjoy and keep the old iron out of the scrapyard.



You more than get points for saving what most would have considered scrap iron.


Nuts
 
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454ragtop

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Mar 24, 2008
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Carver, MA
Good weekend of vise hunting at the swap meet. Here's some of the finds. A Chicago Wilton bullet, 4", no date on the slide. An Athol 624, nice shape other than an issue with the spring on the main screw, nice jaws. What's the screw for in the side near the base under where it is cast "Athol"? Also, what kind of pin is used to retain the spring and collars on the main screw? This one had a cotter pin, is that correct? And a Lakeside, wasn't real enthused until I saw how pristine it actually is, jaws show no wear whatsoever, just a little surface rust on the bare metal surfaces.
Jim
 

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Tacoma bo

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Dec 15, 2013
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49
Tacoma, I did a similar pipe vise of my dads when I was in high school. I still have it and its still got most of its paint. (It never did see a ton of use, but sometimes you just need one...)

Yeah very true. I'm pipefitter/welder by trade so sometimes the yoke vise is best for even the stuff I do at home.

I restored one a while back. I didn't take any before pictures, but it was in rough condition. It was so rusted up that I couldn't tell what name it was. But, I thought it turned out pretty good.

That came out clean:bounce: I'll have to get some pictures up after I finish mine.

Did you have any troubles getting the pin out to remove the lead screw?
 
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Nuts

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Jan 31, 2010
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376
Location
Baker City, Or
Finally, after looking for several months, I found a vise locally that will suffice for the shop.

4.5" Columbian post vise. $65, not a you **** but doable. Pics tomorrow.

My question is about mounting. Will be bolted to a steel bench on a concrete floor.

What to do with the bottom of the post?

First thought is a metal base plate with the proper sized hole for the bottom of the post, which is then welded to the bench leg, keeping the post from sliding around.

Than I remember seeing an ad on CL where a guy had a post vise for sale, and with the
vise there was a tube collar which fit around the donut at the bottom of the post and a
compression spring that slid over the bottom nubbin.

His comment was that this was the proper way to mount a post vise and everyone else
was doing it wrong. Has anyone ever seen one mounted this way before?

I'm guessing the idea was to give the vise some cushion when using BFH's.

What say the vise guru's.

Nuts
 

zoomieport

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The Mall City
I don't see many yoke vises on here very much, but has anyone ever restored one if these Armstrong pipe vises?

I got it about six months ago for $20 on clist. I've used it quite a bit since then, but it does need some love.

I know outlaw and several others have, they are so useful!
I've got 4 Armstrong chain vises, number 1, 2, 3 and 4, from 1/8 to 8", got them all for "a song".
Armstrong made great, heavy duty stuff!
Well done!

Take care! :thumbup:
ZOOM
 

454ragtop

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Carver, MA
Couple more from the weekend, a Yankee 1993 drill press vise on a swivel base. Strange how these work, the base attaches to the dynamic jaw, working the screw causes the base to slide back and forth along the dynamic. And then the sad ******* Craftsman, stopped to look at it, surprised to find nothing was seized despite all that rust. Intended to walk away without it till the seller made me an offer I couldn't refuse.
Jim
 

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drivesitfar

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Nuts: since i don't own or have a blacksmith vise i can't say for sure what the best method is to mount them. i know Jake was a blacksmith or worked quite a bit with those type of vises and tools so he might have the best answer.

some guys mount theirs to a steel table and put a block of wood under the leg to give it a little cushion and some just have their's outside sitting in the gravel and the dirt. and then there are some that just let them sit on the cement floor in the shop or barn.

Rag: nice haul :thumbup::thumbup:
 

Mohawk Dave

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SoCal
NUTS, the post must transfer the beating force to the ground. Thus a "Post" vise.

Make the wood stump, concrete, whatever, nice and tight. The bracket to the bench is to simply hold it from falling over.

Post vises are forged, not cast, not ductile etc. This is because they were meant to take a whoppin day in and day out.

Blacksmiths would use them to not only form metal, along with an anvil, but also to twist, turn etc and smashola stuff.

I picked up a 5" Columbian this year myself. With all the parts. $75 with a 30min drive. Well worth it to me.

Lots of good info at IFORGEIRON forum...
 
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zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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Than I remember seeing an ad on CL where a guy had a post vise for sale, and with the
vise there was a tube collar which fit around the donut at the bottom of the post and a
compression spring that slid over the bottom nubbin.

His comment was that this was the proper way to mount a post vise and everyone else
was doing it wrong. Has anyone ever seen one mounted this way before?


Nuts

If complete I think you got a good deal. That guy doesn't understand basic force analysis. Unless you use a spring of infinite resistance (aka soild bar) you are defeating the purpose of a post vise, which is to provide a solid mount for forging. You want the bottom post to be the main mounting point in the vertical using the ******** the back just to keep it vertical. A piece of dense wood or block of steel is the way to go.
 
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jakemac

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May 21, 2013
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New England
Nuts - As DIF said, I've had experience with post vises. As others have pointed out, the purpose of the design is to take a beating and transfer the shock down the leg to the ground. This allows the vise to take a harder hit, without breaking, than a machinists vise would handle.

A post vise ideally would be mounted to a wood bench (also absorbing some of the shock) and have the nub of the leg mounted in a hole in a piece of hardwood sitting on the floor. The "ring" around the bottom of the leg is a stop, so that you don't drive the leg into the wood like a RR spike. It works best if the floor is dirt (further absorbing shock), but you can get away with concrete if you can use a thicker piece of wood.

If you're going to mount it to a metal bench, then I'd suggest using a hardwood block between the mount and the table. This will help soften the shock to the mount so it is less likely to crack. It will also lift the vise a little, giving you more room at the bottom for a thicker block of wood under the leg.

The wood under the leg should be placed cross-grained. If you go end-grain, you risk splitting the block like cordwood. Make the block a little taller than you will need and squeeze the vise onto it when you mount it, because the wood will compress with use. Over time it may become loose, causing the vise to sag. Replace the block of wood as needed.

The story about the spring mount is BS. It may get by, but it doesn't really do the job. The guy understood the application, but not the concept. He weakened the effect of his hammer blows by lessening the resistance of the vise and put undue stress on the bench mount.

Enjoy ! :thumbup:
 
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Nuts

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Baker City, Or
Drivesitfar, Mohawk Dave, zkling

You guys are saying what I thought was the proper way and reason for mounting a post vise solidly at the bottom.

Just had never seen one in use with a spring or even talked about anywhere else.
The spring mount must have been the reason he was asking $200 more than the vise was worth :D

thanks guys.... Nuts
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Jake: nice post and do you happen to have any pictures of some blacksmith vises mounted properly? i don't own one, but i know i will some day in the near future if i find a nice big one.

Nuts: any pictures of your new vise acquisition?

ALL: i saw this bench mounted blacksmith vise and wondered if anybody owns one or knows much about these? or is this vise a chopped up and modified regular blacksmith vise?
 

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jakemac

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Jake: nice post and do you happen to have any pictures of some blacksmith vises mounted properly?

The only one I have at home right now is my 3-1/4" mounted to be portable. I've posted it here before, but here it is again. This is the one I use to travel with when I did demo's. The other two are still in storage (unmounted).
 

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Nuts

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Nuts - As DIF said, I've had experience with post vises. As others have pointed out, the purpose of the design is to take a beating and transfer the shock down the leg to the ground. This allows the vise to take a harder hit, without breaking, than a machinists vise would handle.

A post vise ideally would be mounted to a wood bench (also absorbing some of the shock) and have the nub of the leg mounted in a hole in a piece of hardwood sitting on the floor. The "ring" around the bottom of the leg is a stop, so that you don't drive the leg into the wood like a RR spike. It works best if the floor is dirt (further absorbing shock), but you can get away with concrete if you can use a thicker piece of wood.

If you're going to mount it to a metal bench, then I'd suggest using a hardwood block between the mount and the table. This will help soften the shock to the mount so it is less likely to crack. It will also lift the vise a little, giving you more room at the bottom for a thicker block of wood under the leg.

The wood under the leg should be placed cross-grained. If you go end-grain, you risk splitting the block like cordwood. Make the block a little taller than you will need and squeeze the vise onto it when you mount it, because the wood will compress with use. Over time it may become loose, causing the vise to sag. Replace the block of wood as needed.

The story about the spring mount is BS. It may get by, but it doesn't really do the job. The guy understood the application, but not the concept. He weakened the effect of his hammer blows by lessening the resistance of the vise and put undue stress on the bench mount.

Enjoy ! :thumbup:

Thanks for the info Jake. I'll take a bow to your expertise, and use wood both between the mount plate and the post. Dad had some white oak held back for making top bows in old cars, should be a good spot to use some.

zkling, the only thing missing on the vise is the spring to open the jaw.
I have a pile of old car springs, shouldn't be much of a hassle to make a new one.

Thanks again guys, Nuts
 

Nuts

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Baker City, Or
Jake: nice post and do you happen to have any pictures of some blacksmith vises mounted properly? i don't own one, but i know i will some day in the near future if i find a nice big one.

Nuts: any pictures of your new vise acquisition?

ALL: i saw this bench mounted blacksmith vise and wondered if anybody owns one or knows much about these? or is this vise a chopped up and modified regular blacksmith vise?


Drivesitfar, I'll get pics tomorrow. I've seen lots of those smaller vises available on Fleabay, not that some might have been modified that way.
Saw one that had the mount built to wrap around a wood beam, said to have been for using on your wagon tongue. Oregon Trail style.


Nuts
 

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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16,939
Jake: nice post and do you happen to have any pictures of some blacksmith vises mounted properly? i don't own one, but i know i will some day in the near future if i find a nice big one.

Nuts: any pictures of your new vise acquisition?

ALL: i saw this bench mounted blacksmith vise and wondered if anybody owns one or knows much about these? or is this vise a chopped up and modified regular blacksmith vise?

Never had a leg, those are small clamp on versions for smaller, more delicate work.
 

CwazyWabbit

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Jan 9, 2015
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Surrey, UK
ALL: i saw this bench mounted blacksmith vise and wondered if anybody owns one or knows much about these? or is this vise a chopped up and modified regular blacksmith vise?

Fretters has one of those in his collection, that's how they came. I think I may have an advert for one somewhere, I'll have a look later.
 

jrobb316

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May 18, 2014
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Location
WI
Thank you jrobb. Looked on the Bay, no 4's in sight, not even in completed listings, so figured I'd best make my own. Cut the open end off a Vlchek wrench I picked up for $1. this weekend, dressed the cut end, threw it in the press to bring the handle back level, and ground some of the chamfer off the box end. Then hit it with some semi gloss black, should do the job.
Jim

I have seen one or two on eBay before, just keep looking and one will show up eventually. Until then you have a work around.
 

topop101

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Jan 1, 2015
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NW Missouri
I don't see many yoke vises on here very much, but has anyone ever restored one if these Armstrong pipe vises?

I got it about six months ago for $20 on clist. I've used it quite a bit since then, but it does need some love.

Here's a greenfield tap and die I did a month or so ago. They are a fun lil' project.
 

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twertsy

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Jan 5, 2014
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Reedville, VA
Hey guys, I asked a question about the value of a Yost #103 a couple pages back. Works good, no repairs. I can snag it for $75. Is that a good price? Thanks, Todd.
 

twertsy

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Reedville, VA
Are you keeping or flipping? I might would pay that if it looked good but there aren't a lot of vises in my area.

Keep for the time being, until something I want more comes up where I can use it for trade. I have 10+ vises so I don't "need" it but if it's a deal at that price, I'd like to grab it for future barter.
 

Mark in Indiana

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Southern Indiana
Thank you. I've been lurking for a little while and love seeing some old stuff. I've found myself lately wanting more and more "previously enjoyed" shop tools, the wife just doesn't understand. Haha. I have cruised through your table and stand threads and like quite a few of those options. I will be sure to contribute with whatever I can come up with on mountings.



Thanks for the reply. One side has a straight "Columbian" and the other side has a curved "Columbian".



D45


My guess on the curved Columbian is that it's post WW2.
 

Mark in Indiana

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I finally finished my first vise resto/mod. For paint I went with Rustoleum hammered black, Rustoleum Regal Red and Rustoleum Metallic Silver. I need to get my garden shed done so I can put this little guy to work. In case you haven't seen how the turd used to look I included the before pics. Enjoy and keep the old iron out of the scrapyard.




























Wow! That's one of the best resurrections I've seen in awhile. Well done! :rocker:
 

Craptain

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Tampa Bay FL
Couple more from the weekend, a Yankee 1993 drill press vise on a swivel base. Strange how these work, the base attaches to the dynamic jaw, working the screw causes the base to slide back and forth along the dynamic. And then the sad ******* Craftsman, stopped to look at it, surprised to find nothing was seized despite all that rust. Intended to walk away without it till the seller made me an offer I couldn't refuse.
Jim
I picked up same model Yankee (and posted) a few weeks ago. Already found use on my dp. It really is a nice little vise.

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk
 

Craptain

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Jake: nice post and do you happen to have any pictures of some blacksmith vises mounted properly? i don't own one, but i know i will some day in the near future if i find a nice big one.

Nuts: any pictures of your new vise acquisition?

ALL: i saw this bench mounted blacksmith vise and wondered if anybody owns one or knows much about these? or is this vise a chopped up and modified regular blacksmith vise?
Drives. The bench mount vise is very similar to one I picked up last year. There are pictures somewhere on this thread. Or I can take new ones when I get home in a few days. It was made that way, not modified.

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk
 
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zoomieport

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Anyone know the manufacturer of this vise? They say she's around 125 pounds.
http://cnj.craigslist.org/for/4982223113.html

All I can make out is "Anchor, 0072, and 5."

I am not familiar with them, but i noticed one listed on ebay the other day and it IS Made in America (at least it is cast into it on the opposite side (see the ebay ad attached), but I don't know the OEM.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Anchor-5in-...332?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35e98b497c

Now that I look at it, it is the same seller, I believe.

Good Luck:thumbup:
ZOOM
 
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CwazyWabbit

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More details on the Anchor Vise company here http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=232823

Hello I just came across your post. The anchor vise company was in business from 1973-2004 and made 5 different vises a 4,4.5, 5, 6, 610 and a few smaller vises along with assorted specialty tools. They sold to mainly the US government. You will see the large No.5 vise on the military M35A2 troop carrier and wrecker trucks used by the US Army. All of the vises and tooling was sold to RCI Starlite International in Bridgeport CT last year. From what I understand they will be manufacturing a few of the larger vise models here in the United states at the RCI Foundry. I will tell you its all american and no one on the market of today can compare strength wise. The material used on these were pure grey iron and no jungle juice of scrap used like in what the china vises are made from. true cast iron will not rust like steel. this is why if you look at those old vises you will really never see one rust through.
 
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va.grouseman

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Southern-Central VA.
Anyone know the manufacturer of this vise? They say she's around 125 pounds.
http://cnj.craigslist.org/for/4982223113.html

All I can make out is "Anchor, 9072, and 5."
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Wright,---You will find info on the Anchor vise on page 534,---Post 10663, and post 10671.
 

drivesitfar

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Craptain, ZK, & CW: thanks for the heads up on the little Blacksmith vise. does the one i have pictured look like it's missing anything or does it have all it's parts to work?

Jake: i'd love to have a set up like yours with a blacksmith vise mounted to a wood stand. thanks for posting it and is that a Columbian blacksmith vise? since i know very little about the blacksmith vises even after seeing maybe a hundred or so in person can you say which brands are the better quality?

i'm looking for a huge 8 inch Peter Wright 200 pounder because i do like their anvils, but i have no idea what parts might be missing or failing on these if the jaws look good. almost need a blacksmith vise thread because i know a lot of members and guys in their shop love beating on vises and these were made for that purpose.

Nuts: nice story about the covered wagons having those little blacksmith vises that would mount to them. talk about "OLD SCHOOL" that really gets us going back in time.

Twertsy: i'd say $75 is never a bad deal for a nice old US or English made vise even if you already have a few. Yost is still in business making vises so parts might even be still available and i bet a new one probably cost close to $200 or more.
 
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muddyriverdogz

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Quad Cities
Does anybody know anything about a Rock Island #95 with a swivel base.I can pick one up for $125.00.I cant find any information on it.thanks Chad
 

jrobb316

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Rock Island 95 is a 5" fixed base, cast in jaws. That vise may have a number in front of 95 you can't see in a pic if it has a swivel. Either way a 5" Rock Island would be on my bench for that price.
 

zkling

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Does anybody know anything about a Rock Island #95 with a swivel base.I can pick one up for $125.00.I cant find any information on it.thanks Chad

You sure it is a #95? A #95 should be a fixed base 5" wide jaws. It would have to be in rather good condition for that price if the model number is correct.
 
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