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The VISES of Garage Journal

va.grouseman

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4,965
Location
Southern-Central VA.
Originally posted by Outlawmws.

Never would have thought of that for the term "Brazilian"
----------------------------------------------------------------------------


Outlaw,---you got a dirty mind.:evil::bounce:
 
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vintage nut

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west coast of canada
Greaseless is a much heavier cutting compound. Its abrasived grit held in a water-based glue binder, rather than tallow and wax, hence greaseless. It's much different to use than grease based compounds. You apply it to the wheel until it has a heavy coating, then let it dry for 15-30 minutes. Then you have about 10-20 minutes buffing time before you need to reload. For production work you have the same wheel on each side, and use one while the other drys. Once dry you smack the crust that formed with a piece of wood, making the wheel flexible again. Greaseless cuts about as aggressively as a belt sander, but leaves a much finer finish. I use it a lot for knifemaking.
After 240 and 400 grit greaseless, I switched to a 12" spiral sewn wheel, and to a grease based black emery compound. That took it to enough of a mirror for a vise, but for knives I'd go to green conpound, and finally pink no scratch. This leaves a finish on steel about as good as your bathroom mirror. A big powerful buffer with long shafts makes it go very quickly. It's amazing the difference in production between 8" and 12" wheels. No way I could go back to a 6" buffer. I also have spiral points on my buffer that make for very fast wheel changes. Although they make it quite a bit more dangerous due to their tendency to grab and pull in anything that touches them. That's what mangled up my finger a while back, and its still not fully useable yet. I'm lucky I didn't loose it. Buffers also like to grab what you're working on and send it flying across the shop at about 100mph. Easily the most dangerous machine in any shop.

you can never have too many tools
 

zoomieport

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Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
1,803
Location
The Mall City
Hello All!

I wondered if anyone has any hints for me... I am having a helluva time getting the split nut out of a Reed #3C (yes, I took the set screw out), I've been spraying it with PB Blaster for days, nothing...
I know I will get it eventually, but if you have a trick, I'd love to hear it!
Thank you in advance!

Take Care!:thumbup:
ZOOM
 
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sbosecker

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Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
3,539
Location
Peachtree City, GA
Finally, I get to be the first.

JZiggy,

I don't know what you have in mind for your Yost 32C but you may find the following of interest.

I have a Yost 33C that I'm dismantling so that I can clean it and give it a new coat of paint. My last post regarding this project was made here a couple of days ago. I asked for some advise on how to get the Pipe Jaw Pins out.

No response to that query but I did finally find a post in the Vise 101 thread that indicated a more violent approach than the "tapping" I had been using was needed.

I got a small, one-handed sledge hammer and a punch and started hammering vigorously on each pin. (I had applied some PB Blaster the day before.) They both started to move. One of them came out pretty easily once I got it going. The other one, not so much.

I worked on that one quite a while. I finally moved from a punch that was small for the task to a 5/16-inch bolt that fit pretty well into the pin hole. Hammering on the bolt proved to be superior to the ill-fitting punch. (I started the hammering with a proper size punch but it had a taper to it and became too large as I drove the pin out - I had to go to a smaller diameter punch to get the length I needed.)

It turns out on my Yost the pins have a "head" if you will. They were knurled on one end and had a couple of "flats' in the knurling. Once I got them both pins out and cleaned them up, I could see that. The "easy one" had been hammered from the side opposite the "head". The "hard one" I had hammered the "head" all the way through.

It should be noted that I hammered both pins from the same side of the vise.

Pictures attached.

Best regards,

Scott

Yost41.jpg

Yost42.jpg

Yost44.jpg

Yost45.jpg
 
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Junebuggy

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Joined
Sep 21, 2014
Messages
246
Location
----
Greaseless is a much heavier cutting compound. Its abrasived grit held in a water-based glue binder, rather than tallow and wax, hence greaseless. It's much different to use than grease based compounds. You apply it to the wheel until it has a heavy coating, then let it dry for 15-30 minutes. Then you have about 10-20 minutes buffing time before you need to reload. For production work you have the same wheel on each side, and use one while the other drys. Once dry you smack the crust that formed with a piece of wood, making the wheel flexible again. Greaseless cuts about as aggressively as a belt sander, but leaves a much finer finish. I use it a lot for knifemaking.
After 240 and 400 grit greaseless, I switched to a 12" spiral sewn wheel, and to a grease based black emery compound. That took it to enough of a mirror for a vise, but for knives I'd go to green conpound, and finally pink no scratch. This leaves a finish on steel about as good as your bathroom mirror. A big powerful buffer with long shafts makes it go very quickly. It's amazing the difference in production between 8" and 12" wheels. No way I could go back to a 6" buffer. I also have spiral points on my buffer that make for very fast wheel changes. Although they make it quite a bit more dangerous due to their tendency to grab and pull in anything that touches them. That's what mangled up my finger a while back, and its still not fully useable yet. I'm lucky I didn't loose it. Buffers also like to grab what you're working on and send it flying across the shop at about 100mph. Easily the most dangerous machine in any shop.
you can never have too many tools


I will agree to this 100%...nothing will try to kill you quicker than a wheel buffer.:wtf:
 

autopts

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Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Messages
2,268
Hello All!

I wondered if anyone has any hints for me... I am having a helluva time getting the split nut out of a Reed #3C (yes, I took the set screw out), I've been spraying it with PB Blaster for days, nothing...
I know I will get it eventually, but if you have a trick, I'd love to hear it!
Thank you in advance!

Take Care!:thumbup:
ZOOM

Mike, did you try some heat? Also maybe I would take the Dynamic completely out and with a block of wood, I would hit the back of the Spindle thread hard so as to shock that split nut..................................................

Here's one I'm saying goodbye to after years. its a 1968 9-C1 and I think it was their nicest design ever
 

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zoomieport

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The Mall City
Mike, did you try some heat? Also maybe I would take the Dynamic completely out and with a block of wood, I would hit the back of the Spindle thread hard so as to shock that split nut..................................................

Here's one I'm saying goodbye to after years. its a 1968 9-C1 and I think it was their nicest design ever

I'll give it a shot, thanks Nick!

THAT C1 IS A BEAUTY!!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 

Craptain

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Apr 18, 2013
Messages
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Tampa Bay FL
Autopts, is that dynamic polished or chromed? It is gorgeous, but I would be concerned with the fit if it is "over polished"

Absolutely the best Wilton I have ever seen.

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk
 

va.grouseman

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Joined
Mar 26, 2011
Messages
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Location
Southern-Central VA.
Beautiful job on the Wilton Autopts.---Shiniest slide I've ever seen.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


Here's a little Oswego I just got in.

4 inch jaws---44 lbs.


100_2437.jpg

100_2438.jpg

100_2439.jpg

100_2444.jpg

100_2445.jpg

100_2443.jpg

100_2450.jpg

I'm sure the pipe jaw bolts are not original equipment.
 

bagged89s10

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Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
4,607
Location
CT
Hello All!



I wondered if anyone has any hints for me... I am having a helluva time getting the split nut out of a Reed #3C (yes, I took the set screw out), I've been spraying it with PB Blaster for days, nothing...

I know I will get it eventually, but if you have a trick, I'd love to hear it!

Thank you in advance!



Take Care!:thumbup:

ZOOM


I had the same issue with my Reed.
Then I ended up standing the dynamic vertical and spraying it penetrant. I think I used Gibbs and wd40.

Maybe try 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. It will free up.


ImageUploadedByTapatalk1432518405.779315.jpg
 

JeremyBurke

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Joined
Nov 5, 2013
Messages
609
Location
Near Portland, OR
Hello All!



I wondered if anyone has any hints for me... I am having a helluva time getting the split nut out of a Reed #3C (yes, I took the set screw out), I've been spraying it with PB Blaster for days, nothing...

I know I will get it eventually, but if you have a trick, I'd love to hear it!

Thank you in advance!



Take Care!:thumbup:

ZOOM


Zoomie- on both my reed 204r and my dad's craftsman 5186 I had great luck with a flat blade bull nose punch and a 2 pound brass hammer after letting PB blaster sit for a few days. I'm sorry it is giving you fits.
 

bagged89s10

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
4,607
Location
CT
Beautiful job on the Wilton Autopts.---Shiniest slide I've ever seen.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------





Here's a little Oswego I just got in.



4 inch jaws---44 lbs.





100_2437.jpg



100_2438.jpg



100_2439.jpg



100_2444.jpg



100_2445.jpg



100_2443.jpg



100_2450.jpg



I'm sure the pipe jaw bolts are not original equipment.


Nice pickup. Does the center swivel bolt underneath actually completely unbolt. If it does I'm going to kick myself because I've been balancing my Oswego 88 on all sorts of things.
 

va.grouseman

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Joined
Mar 26, 2011
Messages
4,965
Location
Southern-Central VA.
Originally posted by Bagged89s10.

Does the center swivel bolt underneath actually completely unbolt?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Does on this 87, but I would be remiss if I didn't suggest that there could be differences on different models.---You might put a little pressure on the bolt and see if it gives a little.
 

va.grouseman

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Mar 26, 2011
Messages
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Location
Southern-Central VA.
Originally posted by Zommieport.

I think they are all in "Area 51" with all the missing pipe jaws.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


YEP
 

FMC1959

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Joined
Feb 9, 2014
Messages
2,319
Location
Montreal, Canada / Upstate NY
Mike, did you try some heat? Also maybe I would take the Dynamic completely out and with a block of wood, I would hit the back of the Spindle thread hard so as to shock that split nut..................................................

Here's one I'm saying goodbye to after years. its a 1968 9-C1 and I think it was their nicest design ever

Stunning! Looks better than the Wilton original paint job and the all the parts are beautifully restored.
 

bagged89s10

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Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
4,607
Location
CT
Here's a couple more pics of the base.



What's the odds of finding one of those old spanner type wrenches that turns the swivel bolt?---Slim to none?





100_2446.jpg



100_2447.jpg


You mean one of these. Either you get the pipe jaws or the wrench. Not both. You have the jaws. I got the wrench. It's like missing socks.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1432521929.199153.jpg
 

va.grouseman

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Mar 26, 2011
Messages
4,965
Location
Southern-Central VA.
Originally posted by Bagged89s10.

You mean one of these. Either you get the pipe jaws or the wrench. Not both. You have the jaws. I got the wrench. It's like missing socks.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


That's just wrong.---Wrong I say!:bounce:
 
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drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Location
Pacific Northwest
Zoomie: Guys correct me if i'm wrong, but I've loosened up a few stubborn rusted parts by soaking in vinegar and I've heard diesel and the 50/50 with ATF works too. i'm against hitting vises in areas that weren't designed to be, but that's not saying i wont if i ever get a really stubborn one especially if i have a duplicate or a spare part close or that i can buy for it if it breaks.

VA and Bagged: How about a coin flip to see who owns one full vise and who has the one for parts?? or get to casting duplicates for all the owners that are missing theirs.

Auto: that is one amazing vise and I agree the C! and C2 are Wilton's best vises that they made/make. their swivel jaw vises might get thrown in the mix especially the bigger ones with the 6 inch jaws.
 

Wilson3741

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Joined
May 24, 2015
Messages
7
Forgive my ignorance I am new to the forum and don't know much about Wilton vises, can anyone help me identify this one. I picked it up at a storage auction, thanks in advance.
 

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drivesitfar

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Wilson: it's one of the Wilton C series vises we all think are special. yours is the smallest one that is a C0 and has 3.5 inch wide jaws. look back on this thread to yesterday i think or maybe the day before when a member posted his C0 all shined up and while you are going back look at the C1 that Autopts posted that looks maybe a bit better.

here's a picture of one i owned that is now owned by another GJ member and on his bench.

welcome to our group and is that your first vise? if so you were lucky and picked up a keeper. or post pictures of your others with a little information and history about them if you want to share.
 

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zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
It is commonly called a "C 0", a combination pipe and standard bench vise. They made a C0 through C3.
 

Fretters

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Jan 25, 2014
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Location
South Yorkshire, England
Picked an old Parkinson up today. I owe CwazyWabbit a reaaaallly big favour for helping me in getting this one. It's a 4" version of the 3" one which I got last year.

guimage


guimage


guimage


guimage



This is a photo of it alongside the Parkinson No.7, which is approx. a 4-5/8" jaw width, then a Woden B3 and a York 100A, both of which are 4" vices, to give an idea of size.

guimage



This is a photo of the 3" one alongside the same Woden B3, to give an idea of difference in size between the two.

guimage
 
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trijeff

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Jan 21, 2015
Messages
1,359
Location
Northern Cali
Greaseless is a much heavier cutting compound. Its abrasived grit held in a water-based glue binder, rather than tallow and wax, hence greaseless. It's much different to use than grease based compounds. You apply it to the wheel until it has a heavy coating, then let it dry for 15-30 minutes. Then you have about 10-20 minutes buffing time before you need to reload. For production work you have the same wheel on each side, and use one while the other drys. Once dry you smack the crust that formed with a piece of wood, making the wheel flexible again. Greaseless cuts about as aggressively as a belt sander, but leaves a much finer finish. I use it a lot for knifemaking.
After 240 and 400 grit greaseless, I switched to a 12" spiral sewn wheel, and to a grease based black emery compound. That took it to enough of a mirror for a vise, but for knives I'd go to green conpound, and finally pink no scratch. This leaves a finish on steel about as good as your bathroom mirror. A big powerful buffer with long shafts makes it go very quickly. It's amazing the difference in production between 8" and 12" wheels. No way I could go back to a 6" buffer. I also have spiral points on my buffer that make for very fast wheel changes. Although they make it quite a bit more dangerous due to their tendency to grab and pull in anything that touches them. That's what mangled up my finger a while back, and its still not fully useable yet. I'm lucky I didn't loose it. Buffers also like to grab what you're working on and send it flying across the shop at about 100mph. Easily the most dangerous machine in any shop.

you can never have too many tools
A tablesaw is definitely right up there in terms of danger, esp. the old school ones
 

Wilson3741

Member
Joined
May 24, 2015
Messages
7
Wow thanks for the quick reply's, I went to a storage auction just to observe and ended up buying the unit because of this vise. I haven't even gotten half way through the storage and it is filled with old vintage tools. Being I am not very educated on old tools I was looking for a good site to help guide me through all the questions I will have.
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Pacific Northwest
Wilson: keep that vise and you will only need a much bigger one and you'll have 2 vises to last a lifetime. if you have vintage tools and want to show them off go in the vintage tool section and start a thread showing off your finds. we won't quote you like an appraiser because we get asked to do that all the time, but if you need a little help on what to keep and what to sell we might be able to help with that. good eye and hope you stick around to learn and maybe share a little of your wisdom or luck.

Fretters: so is another burgundy vice in our future? nice find and nice assist CW. so i'm just wondering if those are replacement bolts that are not all the same size coming out of the nuts or did the factory workers have to put them together quick before Hitler bombed the factory?

nice family photo and they all look like they behaved for the shot.
 

drivesitfar

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Vintage: i do like your posts because i seem to always learn something new when you start mentioning your process of fixing or repairing things. probably because i own a lot of the tools that you are using that i can be using better. I've heard that either sharpening or buffing a knife on a belt grinder or buffer might not always have a happy ending so not surprised of the dangers involved. thanks for all the tips and i hope your arms are not too sore because even the screw on that big Morgan might weigh 20 pounds.

TJ: radial arm saws might be worse than the table saws, but any power tool can do some serious damage if used improperly.
 

Fretters

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Fretters: so is another burgundy vice in our future?

Yup. :D


nice find and nice assist CW. so i'm just wondering if those are replacement bolts that are not all the same size coming out of the nuts or did the factory workers have to put them together quick before Hitler bombed the factory?

They used U bolts on these. They tend to need a bit of tweaking to get them looking even. Date wise, they were probably made quite a bit before WWII. Late Victorian, Edwardian or early Georgian period is likely when they were in production, judging from the little info available. CW has B&H catalogues dating from 1923, and they weren't listed for sale in those.


nice family photo and they all look like they behaved for the shot.

Aye, there were no scuffles. :D
 

trijeff

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Good call, Drives ... perhaps I am a little biased as I've never used a radial and just lost the tip of my index finger on the table saw while packaging that green 1750 I sold on eBay. But definitely sprained a finger like Vintage and sent stuff across the room with buffers/grinders too. I might be defaulting to non-power tools soon lol
 

Fretters

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Good call, Drives ... perhaps I am a little biased as I've never used a radial and just lost the tip of my index finger on the table saw....

:D Can remember taking the flesh off my thumb tip years ago on a Wadkin disc sander. Not fun, is it. :D Like DIF says, any rotating or sharp tool is dangerous if it gets you. :D
 

oldldh

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May 22, 2012
Messages
3,700
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Fairhope, AL
The object is to leave the work area with all your parts intact...

As for yrhmblsrvnt...

So far, so good...

Fingers crossed...
 

tedsters

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Michigan
autopts

wow Nick, that is one nice C1 i know you have had that for along time just sitting, i didn't think you were actually gonna part with it.
its probally one of the nicest i have seen :thumbup:
 

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vintage nut

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A tablesaw is definitely right up there in terms of danger, esp. the old school ones
Having done probably more woodworking than anything else, and running lots of tablesaws without guards, I would definitely say although still a dangerous machine, a buffer is far worse. I'd even say a chainsaw is probably less dangerous than a buffer. I recall seeing a picture of a piece of steel embedded 4 inches into the floor below the buffer. Imagine if it flew off at a different angle. Would have gone straight through you

you can never have too many tools
 

vintage nut

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Good point drives, a radial arm saw is probably the woodworking equivalent of the buffer in terms of danger. And the spiral points on mine make it even worse than normal, as it can throw things, or rip loose things in too.

you can never have too many tools
 

Fretters

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It's your sons vice, not yours :p lol :)

He keeps reminding me of that fact too. :D I think he thinks I'm going to become like Gollum with it. :D


Fretters
I had seen that Parkinsons, glad you got it.

Cheers. :) This one has a similar problem that one of yours had, with the cracked plate around the QR lever. I can't wait to see how this one turns out after being in the vat. Currently, I can't tell whether the surface might be notably rust pitted or not, due to the thick coating of paint and such everywhere. It seems there may be some pitting, but it appears paint has been applied over surface crud, so that could be somewhat misleading.
 

McBrownie

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Cleveland, OH
Wow thanks for the quick reply's, I went to a storage auction just to observe and ended up buying the unit because of this vise. I haven't even gotten half way through the storage and it is filled with old vintage tools. Being I am not very educated on old tools I was looking for a good site to help guide me through all the questions I will have.

You found a really nice Chicago Wilton. Late '40's or early 50's. Congratulations!
 
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