lighting help

[dmcintosh]

I've learned a ton already to help me with my garage build. So let me just say thanks to everyone for their insight and willingness to share.

A quick recap of my project. Built a 24' x 30' pole building with a 10' ceiling to replace a 12' x 18' shed. Planning to use this to work on/restore my 1966 Chevelle Wagon. The concrete will be 'painted' with Rust Bullet in the next day or so I can start my electric. Planning to install a 60 amp subpanel.

Been working on lighting ideas and would like some input. From what I've already learned, I am planning to use fluorescent strip lights (T8) probably Lithonia from HD since they are easy to get and the price is not bad. Any ideas on the layout? In addition to the main lighting I may also add lights directly over the work benches and equipment if it is too dark.

 

[Caman]

Ummm...you've got two guys poopin next to each other and there's a dead guy under that car!

 

[dmcintosh]

Those are my buddies watching me work on the car. Its hard to find good help!

 

[AndyCBR]

I've learned a ton already to help me with my garage build. So let me just say thanks to everyone for their insight and willingness to share.

A quick recap of my project. Built a 24' x 30' pole building with a 10' ceiling to replace a 12' x 18' shed. Planning to use this to work on/restore my 1966 Chevelle Wagon. The concrete will be 'painted' with Rust Bullet in the next day or so I can start my electric. Planning to install a 60 amp subpanel.

Been working on lighting ideas and would like some input. From what I've already learned, I am planning to use fluorescent strip lights (T8) probably Lithonia from HD since they are easy to get and the price is not bad. Any ideas on the layout? In addition to the main lighting I may also add lights directly over the work benches and equipment if it is too dark.

I like the layout you have. As you said some task lighting over a workbench or two may be needed also but I like to chain hang those to get them closer to the work surface. May want to rough in a receptacle in the ceiling above the workbenches that is 1/2 switched (one outlet switched to light switch, other constant on) that way you can control it with the wall switch or a pull cord.

 

[dmcintosh]

That's a good idea.

 

[DC73]

Looks good. You might consider adding two or three lights over the vehicle area. There may be times you'll have the vehicle out and working on something else and the extra light would help a lot. You can put these on a separate switch so you only turn them on when needed.

DC

 

[Platonic Solid]

Here's the most even illumination I can get to, providing workbench lighting and maintaining a less prominently lit mower/storage area:

Workplane Isoline Fc Plot:

All fixtures mounted directly to ceiling. IES info used = Metalux SSF-232

I assumed your 24x30 dims were exterior, so plot is based on 23x29 interior dim.

 

[dmcintosh]

Thanks guys. That really helps a lot.

 

[dmcintosh]

So thinking about switches and creating 'banks' of lights - thinking probably 5 (maybe more). Two banks for the main lights, one for the general lighting on the right side of the garage, one each for outside of the man door and garage door and maybe some workbench task lighting. What are my options for multi-gang boxes and switches? One box with all the switches, multiple boxes, maybe one above the other?

My initial thought was to use a single 15A (or 20A) breaker all of my lighting to simplify my wiring (bringing just one feed into my switch box) and wiring everything together there. I want to make sure I am code compliant.

Thanks

 

[kingchevy]

You should consider using 2 circuits for lighting. Reason being is if you trip a breaker you don't want to be left in the dark, possibly while a power tool.

 

[dmcintosh]

You should consider using 2 circuits for lighting. Reason being is if you trip a breaker you don't want to be left in the dark, possibly while a power tool.

That's a good idea. But if I run a dedicated light circuit, wouldn't I need to have some larger electrical issues to trip that circuit, in which case I'd probably be tripping the main, no? Then again, two circuits would allow me to make any repairs/modifications without working in the dark or during the day.

 

[dmcintosh]

Last week I managed to get my sub panel installed and wired up. I did put in one outlet and single light just so I could work out there without the need of an extension cord.

I am always impressed with the way the pros make their wires so neat inside the panel, boxes and even their runs. That's my goal for this project to make my work look as nice as that of a pro.

 

[kingchevy]

Isn't that the neutral bar you're using as your ground bar and visa versa? And that's a curious looking setup with the female adapter/****** combo entering the panel, why not a male terminal end?

 

[AndyCBR]

Isn't that the neutral bar you're using as your ground bar and visa versa? And that's a curious looking setup with the female adapter/****** combo entering the panel, why not a male terminal end?

Looks fine to me. It doesn't matter how you get from A to B piping wise as long as you don't exceed conduit fill requirements.

The ground and neutral bars appear to be separate and a ground wire going to the ground rods I assume for the detached structure. Ground bar appears to ground the panel as it should.

What's the problem?

 

[kingchevy]

The bar on the right has a neutral lug and a bonding strap, wouldn't that mean the other bar is the ground bar and is bonded to the box?

 

[AndyCBR]

The bar on the right has a neutral lug and a bonding strap, wouldn't that mean the other bar is the ground bar and is bonded to the box?

The bar on the right is the ground bar and appears to be bonded to the panel chassis with the green screw (as it should be). The bar on the left is the neutral bar and appears to be isolated from the panel chassis (as it should be).

This is the correct configuration for a sub panel where ground and neutral are isolated.

 

[dmcintosh]

With respect to the conduit configuration, I was looking for a box offset since the conduit is close to the outside purlin and the box in on the inside edge of the 2x6. Anyway to make a long story short I couldn't find, and actually don't think they make a 1 1/2 box offset in PVC. They had the female adapter and the other fitting so went with it.

As far as I know the box is wired correct for my detached structure.

 

[bczygan]

Here's the most even illumination I can get to, providing workbench lighting and maintaining a less prominently lit mower/storage area:

Workplane Isoline Fc Plot:

All fixtures mounted directly to ceiling. IES info used = Metalux SSF-232

I assumed your 24x30 dims were exterior, so plot is based on 23x29 interior dim.

This layout with one more of 4 to up the levels.

 

[slice]

If the interior is painted white. You have overkill for lighting. Going to be blinding. Start out with less you can add more. Or take a few bulbs out.

 

[Platonic Solid]

If the interior is painted white. You have overkill for lighting. Going to be blinding. Start out with less you can add more. Or take a few bulbs out.

71fc in an empty room is "Blinding"? Really? . . . Not even close.

You're certainly entitled to your opinion . . . even if it's wrong.

 

[bczygan]

Here's the most even illumination I can get to, providing workbench lighting and maintaining a less prominently lit mower/storage area:

Workplane Isoline Fc Plot:

All fixtures mounted directly to ceiling. IES info used = Metalux SSF-232

I assumed your 24x30 dims were exterior, so plot is based on 23x29 interior dim.

What program did you use to get the FC plan?

 

[Platonic Solid]

What program did you use to get the FC plan?

I use both Dialux and AGI32 depending on which PC I'm using. Since I don't do GJ stuff at work, everything I post here is done in Dialux.

 

[dmcintosh]

Had a follow up question about wiring up my lights. I am curious about actually running the wire into the fluorescent light fixtures and if I will need any type of wire clamp. Would something like this (http://t.homedepot.com/p/Raco-NM-3-4-in-Sheathed-Cable-Connector-5-Pack-2863B5/203671628) make sense. Am planning to run wire over head and drop down into the fixtures through the finished ceiling.

Thanks

 

[cybrdyke]

Had a follow up question about wiring up my lights. I am curious about actually running the wire into the fluorescent light fixtures and if I will need any type of wire clamp. Would something like this (http://t.homedepot.com/p/Raco-NM-3-4-in-Sheathed-Cable-Connector-5-Pack-2863B5/203671628) make sense. Am planning to run wire over head and drop down into the fixtures through the finished ceiling.

Thanks

It's pretty commonly used, but not in the 3/4 version. The knockouts in the fixture are either 3/8 or 1/2" .

 

[dmcintosh]

So how would that work, would this need some sort of void, or hollow spot in the ceiling to recess into, then? I'm probably making this more complicated than it really is, but I am having a hard time visualizing this.

 

[AndyCBR]

If you're just dropping the romex through the ceiling most electricians would just lay out and drill a hole with a unibit in the backside of the fixture body and penetrate that way.

The NM-B connector can be used to penetrate from the side or for using a cord whip and going to a receptacle.

 

[dmcintosh]

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=rel&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Would this be an option to drop down into the fixtures from above?

 

[Platonic Solid]

I haven't used those. I would just go for the standard 3/8 in. Non-Metallic (NM) Twin Screw Clamp Connectors as you'll want to run 2 cables through each one to jump power from fixture to fixture.

 

[AndyCBR]

You don't need a connector if you are flush mounting to the ceiling through the drywall.

The Romex will be secured with staples in the attic where you turn it downward to drop through the ceiling.

You are overthinking this.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Platonic Solid]

Required by code or not, the metal edges on thin metal strip-light knockouts is easily sharp enough to cut through NM cable insulation. $0.14 ea. is a small price to pay for peace-of-mind.

 

[dmcintosh]

I have a habit of overthinking somethings.

Thanks all.