The VINTAGE toolboxes of Garage Journal!
- Thread starter mjozefow
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
We all have to admit, ZK is "Da Man" on tool boxes! 
We all have to admit, ZK is "Da Man" on tool boxes!
Not at all, we each have our wheel house. It's the collective group and occasional disagreement followed by discussion that gets things figured out.
taumac
Well-known member
Ok so if had lid support and dimples then its a Waterloo and if it doesn't is it made by Kennedy? Just for the 526. I had a craftsman 526 with no dimples by lock or lid support.
The 520 your saying if it's a Craftsman (Kennedy 520 clone) it was made by Waterloo and not by Kennedy?
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Bill Ramsey
Well-known member
Nice score. I have that same Craftsman machinist box. Although it looks similar, it doesn't feel as beefy as another Kennedy box I have, so I've never known if it was actually made by Kennedy. Looks like zkling confirms my suspicions. It's still a good box...I bought it to hold my reloading tools.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Hmmm, I have a Kennedy 20" wide (Fits the 520 top...) 7 drawer roller for some of my reloading tools, and it doesn't even come close....
But that gives me an idea for a Box switch around I'm considering...
Uhm, some of them, the more modern ones. As usual craftsman's source changed over the years. If you get two of them side by side, you'll see the differences. The real kennedy's have a tighter, more sturdy feel to them IMHO.
Hmmm, I have a Kennedy 20" wide (Fits the 520 top...) 7 drawer roller for some of my reloading tools, and it doesn't even come close....
But that gives me an idea for a Box switch around I'm considering...
I used to have a 5 drawer version years ago that was 21". Kinda regret getting rid of it. Then again at only ~7" more you can get a full size 26" bottom box. They are a goofy spot between a side box and a 26" box. Does yours have the folding front cover? Mine was just drawers on the face, bottom being pretty deep.
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My 26" Craftsman has lid supports and no dimples. As far as I can tell it's identical to a Kennedy 526 aside from the fact that I've never seen a Kennedy-branded 526 without the extra lid latches. That said, I've never handled a Kennedy in-person and I'm just going by pictures.
Is this version made by Kennedy, or just a different Waterloo? It certainly wouldn't surprise me if Craftsman sourced them from both Kennedy and Waterloo. I believe mine is from the early to mid 1960s because of the gray paint which was switched to wrinkled brown in the late 1960s according to the catalogs I've seen.
Is this version made by Kennedy, or just a different Waterloo? It certainly wouldn't surprise me if Craftsman sourced them from both Kennedy and Waterloo. I believe mine is from the early to mid 1960s because of the gray paint which was switched to wrinkled brown in the late 1960s according to the catalogs I've seen.
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Those were built by Kennedy to craftsman spec. Differences being the side handles (typical craftsman style) and the lack of center drawer pulls on the long drawers to make room for the badge. I'm not a fan of the 526, but that is a sharp box. I like the matching decimal/tap chart.
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Bill Ramsey
Well-known member
Hmmm, I have a Kennedy 20" wide (Fits the 520 top...) 7 drawer roller for some of my reloading tools, and it doesn't even come close....
You must load for more calibers than I do.
Thanks. Until you pointed it out I didn't even notice that the handles were different on the Craftsman. The lack of center drawer pulls is a slight annoyance sometimes, but I do love the look of that crown logo.
I remember having a discussion about these machinist chests in another thread a while back, and I definitely agree with others that they have a somewhat limited usefulness. Quite large and heavy for lugging around, but fairly small for a stationary box. However, in my case, it's the largest box that will fit in my closet, and it works reasonably well for holding my small selection of household tools.
It seems very solidly built to me and I would definitely consider Kennedy for any different types of portable boxes I might need in the future.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Nope, No folding cover. These were for bench techs originally. The average tech would be fine with just a 520. but some would outgrow it and need a roller.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
You must load for more calibers than I do.
Yeah, its's (another) sickness, but I love doing it...
taumac
Well-known member
Yep, that's the same one I have also. Silver to gray switch? I have a original silver 520 and a brown 520 craftsman and the silver one seems built and finished off better.
Bill Ramsey
Well-known member
Here's my Craftsman version of the Kennedy 526. Lid stiffener, lid supports, lock "dimples."
.
It's 35 lbs, where my Kennedy 520 is 30 lbs.
. It's 35 lbs, where my Kennedy 520 is 30 lbs.
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bagged89s10
Well-known member
Here's my Craftsman version of the Kennedy 526. Lid stiffener, lid supports, lock "dimples."
Nice box!. I just picked one up the other day.
Needs a little cleanup. I'm debating wether to keep it or sell it.
Bill Ramsey
Well-known member
Nice box!. I just picked one up the other day.
Needs a little cleanup. I'm debating wether to keep it or sell it.
The age-old question.
taumac
Well-known member
Bill Ramsey
Well-known member
Maybe he IS you, in an alternate Universe.
Re: Garage sale rolling tool box
started to sand some small rust spots and it turned into a major project. what i thought was dirt in the pores of the original hammered paint was rust coming through the paint due to a bad original paint job. did not look that bad when the paint was on the box. how do you like my big paint samples? when i started to scrape, some came off in big flakes like that. still looking any info on this box like how old is it and a make. thanks jim
started to sand some small rust spots and it turned into a major project. what i thought was dirt in the pores of the original hammered paint was rust coming through the paint due to a bad original paint job. did not look that bad when the paint was on the box. how do you like my big paint samples? when i started to scrape, some came off in big flakes like that. still looking any info on this box like how old is it and a make. thanks jim
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Impala64
Well-known member
I picked this up awhile back. I like the stickers on old tool boxes.
taumac
Well-known member
rmalkow2
Well-known member
Re: Garage sale rolling tool box
Get some good spray on rust converter like Permatex or Locktite brands and give it one or two coats before you apply primer. Even with all your sanding you will not get all the rust and this will convert anything left to a black paintable surface and help prevent it from coming back.
Make sure to show us some pics when its all done.
Get some good spray on rust converter like Permatex or Locktite brands and give it one or two coats before you apply primer. Even with all your sanding you will not get all the rust and this will convert anything left to a black paintable surface and help prevent it from coming back.
Make sure to show us some pics when its all done.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
taumac
Well-known member
taumac
Well-known member
Maybe he is you in THIS universe, and you are schizophrenic!
LOL, My obsession with vintage Craftsman boxes has gotta the best of me it seems.
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dngrmse
Well-known member
Saw this in a CL ad. Too cool not to post. NOT mine, no affiliation. I wish I lived closer.
Content of AD:
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/tls/5027604587.html
RARE SIMONSEN Portable-Rolling Machinist Tool Cabinet on heavy duty wheels. Simonsen "TOOL CADDY" This is a rare find from the 1950's. Tool cabinet has a recessed top to prevent toools from rolling away. The doors feature storage cubbys on one side and peg board on the other for handy & convenient storage. Inside the cabinet is a top storage shelf with 3 drawers and a lower storage area for larger items. The cabinet is on heavy duty wheels with a handle on the top for rolling cabinet to where you need it. This is a nice-neat old machinist tool cabinet. "Tool Caddy" by Simonsen. This is marked "patent Pending" (the patent was applied for in 1959). You don't want to miss out on this great old Tool cabinet. The uses for this cabinet are endless!
VINTAGE SIMONSEN TOOL CADDY, THAT WAS MADE RIGHT HERE IN THE GOOD OLE U.S.A. IN CHICAGO ILLINOIS. THIS A VERY HEAVY ROLL AROUND, 3 DRAWER TOOL/PARTS CABINET
TOTAL HEIGHT OF CABINET FROM THE GROUND TO THE TOP OF CABINET, NOT INCLUDING THE HANDLE IS 36''h X 28'' WIDE X 18'' DEEP. THE HANDLE IS REMOVEABLE IF DESIRED.
SIMONSEN MECHANICS TOOL BOX - TYPE II CLASS I - MILITARY ISSUE 18" X 10 1/8" X 13
Content of AD:
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/tls/5027604587.html
RARE SIMONSEN Portable-Rolling Machinist Tool Cabinet on heavy duty wheels. Simonsen "TOOL CADDY" This is a rare find from the 1950's. Tool cabinet has a recessed top to prevent toools from rolling away. The doors feature storage cubbys on one side and peg board on the other for handy & convenient storage. Inside the cabinet is a top storage shelf with 3 drawers and a lower storage area for larger items. The cabinet is on heavy duty wheels with a handle on the top for rolling cabinet to where you need it. This is a nice-neat old machinist tool cabinet. "Tool Caddy" by Simonsen. This is marked "patent Pending" (the patent was applied for in 1959). You don't want to miss out on this great old Tool cabinet. The uses for this cabinet are endless!
VINTAGE SIMONSEN TOOL CADDY, THAT WAS MADE RIGHT HERE IN THE GOOD OLE U.S.A. IN CHICAGO ILLINOIS. THIS A VERY HEAVY ROLL AROUND, 3 DRAWER TOOL/PARTS CABINET
TOTAL HEIGHT OF CABINET FROM THE GROUND TO THE TOP OF CABINET, NOT INCLUDING THE HANDLE IS 36''h X 28'' WIDE X 18'' DEEP. THE HANDLE IS REMOVEABLE IF DESIRED.
SIMONSEN MECHANICS TOOL BOX - TYPE II CLASS I - MILITARY ISSUE 18" X 10 1/8" X 13
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taumac
Well-known member
Actually it's only about 15 mins from where I'm live. It's over priced IMO and it's just doesn't fit my theme in my garage. I think it's really cool and something you don't see everyday for sure. I never saw one until seeing that CL ad.
if so.... count me in lolOutlawmws
Well-known member
I suppose it depends on who you plan to stuff in there.. 
Better posted in the Garage Sale Thread, or if its for your garage, in the "what did you do in your garage" thread
Better posted in the Garage Sale Thread, or if its for your garage, in the "what did you do in your garage" thread
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Does anyone know if there is a spray paint to match the brown crinkle finish of my machinist box? The top has white paint spilled on it and I would like to paint it.
jakemac
Well-known member
Kennedy sells spray cans, but they're ridiculously expensive.
Bill Ramsey
Well-known member
Does anyone know if there is a spray paint to match the brown crinkle finish of my machinist box? The top has white paint spilled on it and I would like to paint it.
Have you tried the usual suspects to try to lift that white paint? WD40, mineral spirits, naptha, simple green? In that larger picture in Post 4300, the original paint seems pretty intact. Seems a shame to repaint. Just my 2 cents.
taumac
Well-known member
+1 repaint last option. That paint I believe you can't touch up cause won't blend cause of age.
bagged89s10
Well-known member
The paint is intact and I only want to fix the top cover. I will have to try some of these methods first.
The bottom is rusted too. But not too bad.
safariknut
Well-known member
Found this box awhile back at a yard sale for $8.Missing the front face and had a few dents. Cleaned it up a bit and didn't try to remove the dents as they are in the outer wall of double walled panel.The felt liners were more or less intact and left as is.
My intent was to spruce it up a bit and donate it to one of our local pinstriper's panel jams for charity to be auctioned off. Cane out nice enough that I may keep it for myself.
Lettered the copy on with 1-Shot lettering enamel and let it sit a couple days and then "antiqued" it using windshield washer solvent and a used brown scuff pad.
The front was originally metal but wanting to keep the costs down I opted to use a piece of 1/4" plywood painted to simulate aged metal. Bought a couple pieces at a local store(less than $3 apiece)and experimented with a few antiquing ideas.
Primed with a rattle can primer/surfacer(gray) and then brushed over some black lettering paint flattened with talcum powder to obtain a satin finish. While it was still wet I scattered some dirt and crushed up leaves over the surface. I then brushed on some brown lettering paint and some very thinned out gray paint mixed with restoring clear and talcum powder to get the cloudy effect so common on old paint.Fogged some satin black spray around the edges and added more dirt.
I then lettered the front using standard 1-Shot lettering enamel in ivory and maroon outlines. After setting a couple days I sanded the surface using a new gray scuff pad and plenty of washer solvent;wiping off as I went along to see how much paint was being removed.The good part is if you take too much off you just re-do it and start over.
The finished panel is shown in the last picture.This may take two posts as there are multiple pics.
My intent was to spruce it up a bit and donate it to one of our local pinstriper's panel jams for charity to be auctioned off. Cane out nice enough that I may keep it for myself.
Lettered the copy on with 1-Shot lettering enamel and let it sit a couple days and then "antiqued" it using windshield washer solvent and a used brown scuff pad.
The front was originally metal but wanting to keep the costs down I opted to use a piece of 1/4" plywood painted to simulate aged metal. Bought a couple pieces at a local store(less than $3 apiece)and experimented with a few antiquing ideas.
Primed with a rattle can primer/surfacer(gray) and then brushed over some black lettering paint flattened with talcum powder to obtain a satin finish. While it was still wet I scattered some dirt and crushed up leaves over the surface. I then brushed on some brown lettering paint and some very thinned out gray paint mixed with restoring clear and talcum powder to get the cloudy effect so common on old paint.Fogged some satin black spray around the edges and added more dirt.
I then lettered the front using standard 1-Shot lettering enamel in ivory and maroon outlines. After setting a couple days I sanded the surface using a new gray scuff pad and plenty of washer solvent;wiping off as I went along to see how much paint was being removed.The good part is if you take too much off you just re-do it and start over.
The finished panel is shown in the last picture.This may take two posts as there are multiple pics.
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safariknut
Well-known member
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Outlawmws
Well-known member
That looks like house paint, and SG should take it off unless sit's oil base (it might work I just have no experience with it...).
Cut a paper towel so the SG can be kept to the paint location and soak the paper towel, lay some Saran wrap over it and give it 10 min or so and see if it's softening. if not go another 10... Repeat as needed.
Cut a paper towel so the SG can be kept to the paint location and soak the paper towel, lay some Saran wrap over it and give it 10 min or so and see if it's softening. if not go another 10... Repeat as needed.