Above 1200 Sq/FT The Ole Barn Workshop by BigNuge

[BigNuge]

The Ole Barn Workshop by BigNuge-3D Model

Well, I put some time into learning Sketchup (downloaded the free version).

Here is the 3D version of my plans (to scale). This is just the workshop area itself. The open wall side of the model is only open to easily show detail. The open wall shown will be a closed off wall, with a large sliding door in front of the vehicle bay so I can get vehicles into the rear section of the barn.

 

[BigNuge]

Re: The Cougar...

Sorry for your loss.

You can have the best of both worlds on the engine. If you still have the 302 (or any 302), you can stroke it to 347. With the taller deck of the 351, you may run into problems finding an exhaust that will fit.

Good luck with the car.

Scott

Agreed! I will be going back to a 302 for sure. It will happen, just when I have the finances, the facility (in process), and time....lol

 

[BigNuge]

And so it begins...

Picked up the first piece of equipment today, picking up another batch of it tomorrow.

Grabbed a pic of the compressor I scored. Picked this unit up for $800 in the end. It's a 2008, but looks like it is brand new! The guy selling it thought I was shopping around (didn't call him for a week or so). He offered to take another hundred off if I picked it up soon....DONE!

I'll probably do an oil change, as well as a belt change before putting it in regular service (cheap insurance to be safe).

The weather has been nice, so I have slowly been starting the cleanup effort in the barn. Man, I have a lot of **** in here...lol


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[BigNuge]

Is there any way to have a Mod move this thread to the appropriate section? Ive been told that build threads belong in the gallery.

Thanks for any assistance!

 

[NUTTSGT]

Is there any way to have a Mod move this thread to the appropriate section? Ive been told that build threads belong in the gallery.

Thanks for any assistance!

At the bottom of the main page, in the "To the Editors" section, there is a link View Forum Leaders Click on that link and it will show you all the Moderators on the site with a button to PM them.

Consider it done and will be in the Gallery section shortly.

 

[BigNuge]

At the bottom of the main page, in the "To the Editors" section, there is a link View Forum Leaders Click on that link and it will show you all the Moderators on the site with a button to PM them.



Consider it done and will be in the Gallery section shortly.

Excellent, thank you!


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[phil du jour]

And so it begins...

Picked up the first piece of equipment today, picking up another batch of it tomorrow.

Grabbed a pic of the compressor I scored. Picked this unit up for $800 in the end. It's a 2008, but looks like it is brand new! The guy selling it thought I was shopping around (didn't call him for a week or so). He offered to take another hundred off if I picked it up soon....DONE!

I'll probably do an oil change, as well as a belt change before putting it in regular service (cheap insurance to be safe).

The weather has been nice, so I have slowly been starting the cleanup effort in the barn. Man, I have a lot of **** in here...lol


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As an IR service tech, I recommend using All Season Select and an IR air filter and belt

 

[BSAschields]

Subscribed

 

[BigNuge]

As an IR service tech, I recommend using All Season Select and an IR air filter and belt

Will do, thanks for the heads up.


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[STINEY]

Love the barn and glad you are taking it on. We are lucky enough to have 3 big old barns on our property, taking care of them is a job but the space and character are nearly priceless.

Here's a GJ thread of barns....mine is the red metal wrapped one. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142972&showall=1

Raised the whole front of mine nearly 12" with a 20 ton bottle jack, ibeam, and lots of patience - dug/poured pier-footers, new cement floor, 2-post lift, insulated overhead doors, siding. Only left is to make it heatable.

Subscribing and can't wait to see the progress!

 

[BigNuge]

Thanks! I am chomping at the bit to get started on the floor. The Atlas lift manual says the floor needs to be cured for at least a month before installing the lift. I'm trying to get the floor in as soon as possible so I'm not having to wait till June to get the lift in...lol

I also need all the snow to go away so i have a spot to store the roofing material when it shows up...the clock is ticking, and its 23 degrees out

 

[BigNuge]

The Ole Barn Workshop by BigNuge-And so it begins

Got started this weekend thanks to our warmer weather working its way in (sort of).

Got 3 dump runs in, moved some materials on the second & first floor to allow for the new stairs to be cut in, and got the stairs in.





Never cut stringers before, found a calculator on line and followed it for the pattern, they came out great!






Next up will be installing a couple new lolly columns and rebuilding the east beam so I can remove the post that is currently in the lift bay area on the East side. I would love to go to steel on this, but I'm afraid an engineer would cost me big $$ to calculate the size beam I would need...

 

[BigNuge]

Well, I have been bust with work and finishing touches on the house...but still have made time to keep the barn project moving forward.

Got a lot done over the last couple of weeks, like...

Cleaning out two 8' x 20' x 5' trailer loads of junk out of the second floor (still 2 more loads of **** to go too), constructing new main post supports with 6x6 PT and constructing new main support beams for the second floor joists on the East side, hanging new 2x10 stringers for the lift bay ceiling and hanging OSB up there before cutting the second floor deck opening bigger, cutting the second floor opening to accommodate the lift bay, rented a 9000# mini-excavator for preparing the center (lift bay) section of the floor for a new pad pour, including adding 8 yards of 3/4 gravel and compacting it.

And the pics:

 

[BigNuge]

Trying to upload more pics but this new "photos" app on my Mac is a total POS!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[BigNuge]

More Pics:





Oh, forgot to mention...got the new power feed run from the house to the barn.





Ready for the pour...finally!!!

 

[jb3]

Looking forward to following this!
Great building

 

[crawler07]

Making great progress! its gotta feel good getting the floor finished. Have you had a chance to run the compressor yet? Is it loud? I ask because I have ben thinking of buying the same one and my garage is under my house so I need a fairly quiet one.

 

[BigNuge]

Thanks guys.

I haven't had a chance to run the compressor in my barn yet. I unfortunately have to consider digging a ditch in my nice new gravel pad to bury the line to the compressor, which is on the opposite side of the shop from the panel. If I run the line overhead I'd have to use twice the wire....and 6/3 copper isn't cheap!!

I expect to have the pad poured by the end of the month. Then I have to wait a whole month before installing the lift, as well as adding more structural supports that will rest in the new pad.

I'm pleasantly surprised as to how much storage I still have up stairs. Once I get the last bunch of junk/wood out of there I'll have a nice amount of storage up there.

Roof material order goes in next week, that will take a couple weeks to come in...then it goes up.

Things are moving along nicely!!


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[BigNuge]

Got the concrete pour scheduled with the crew & supplier. One week from today and I'll have the new floor in!!

The Atlas lift IOM says to wait 30 days for a new pad to cure before installing the lift. That said, at least I'll have the lift in by the end of May, which is great news for me...I already have a waiting list of family & friends that need work done on their vehicles...lol.

I got the rake trim & soffit repaired (paid to have that done...heights are not my bag). I think I've decided to do vinyl siding at some point this Summer (as opposed to painting). I think the wind & water blocking value (and the never have to paint it value) will be the best for what I'm doing. Ill probably do it in sections, starting with the West (windward) wall, then come around to the front (house facing) end.

Anyway....I'll update with pics when the pour gets done.

 

[BigNuge]

Quick question for those of you who have experience with pouring your own concrete pad.

I have a pour scheduled for tomorrow afternoon. The pad area is all graded & prepped with good 3/4 gravel. The pad size for this pour is 14' wide x 25' long. It is going to be poured in between two existing pads, as pictured here:



I have placed a complete grid of wire reenforcement mesh. After laying the mesh, and trying to think of anything else I need, I got to thinking about expansion joints. I saw the simple 4" foam expansion joint material at Lowes, and got to thinking about maybe using it. I don't need the added expense...lol. But if it is something I need then I will get some.

As a note, I won't be able to add the expansion joint along the width because a 2 post lift will end up on there. I don't want the lift bridging what would be 2 separate pads. If anything, I'd add it along the long (length) dimension (between the old pads and the new pad.

So, given the above conditions what do you guys think??


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[MagKarl]

Your new slab will shrink as it cures. You don't have to have any joints in it if you don't want to.

 

[BigNuge]

Great, thanks for the info. I'll be updating when the pour is done!


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[BigNuge]

Well, got the pad poured yesterday. Holy ****, that was a lot of work....


Got the grid set up on some stones to get it into the mix, all prepped for the truck:



And the truck shows up.







Turns out, our calculations were wrong...(this is what being short 1/2 of a yard looks like).



To say I was upset wouldn't cover it....I was over a yard (1.3 yards to be exact) high on my order of the pad we were pouring. Obviously we went a little thick in more spots than anticipated.

 

[BigNuge]

Pulled up the boot straps and hand poured the rest right there and then...






And we floated on into the night.....




Oh, and how can we forget dinner....lol. The boys thought the cement truck was the coolest thing.




And now the month-long wait begins....Thats alright, I have a few punchlist items on the house to get finished before its ready to rent. As well as a few yard work items to wrap up (oh, and a couple of camping trips mixed in there too).

 

[Mr. Roboto]

Looking good! I can only imagine how bummed you must have been when the pour was short, but you recovered well. Now it's time to hurry up and wait!

 

[BigNuge]

Thanks! Yeah, I wasn't pleased when it came up short....but what are you gonna do?? Knuckle up and get it done, that's it.

The results this AM are less than perfect, let's just say I won't be taking up masonry work any time soon...lol. All in all I'm fine with it. It's poured, it's solid, now I wait.


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[BigNuge]

Just a quick update on the project.

As you already know, the pad is poured. The look has improved greatly since it has cured more. Here are some pics from Friday (which makes it 7 days old):







It looks even better today than it did Friday! You cannot distinguish between the two pours (truck/hand) now. I think the warmer temps are really helping with the curing process.

I still haven't driven a vehicle on it. Only my lawn tractor so it doesn't have to spend anymore nights outside...lol. I think I might pull the truck in today though, I think 9 days should be enough for a pickup truck...

 

[STINEY]

Looks great! That is a space to be proud of.

Not to rain on your parade by any means, but after dealing with my barns I am concerned for you about the lack of a post to the floor on the right side.

Not that I see it as a safety thing, but I am 99% certain you will start to see some weird-not good movement in the structure due to that upper beam bearing on the horizontal beam with no support directly to the floor.

We had a similar setup on one of our end walls. Years before we got the place someone had removed a post like that, and the pegs were sheared and the tenons breaking off in the upper level. And our span was only 18' between ground posts.....our upper post really really wanted to bear straight to the ground.

Food for thought anyways, would hate to see you have to address the same issues we did. The cure was cheap and relatively simple, but would have been a mess if we had sided the barn before the cure happened, that corner area needed to go up 12" to fix the tenons. That's a lot of siding headaches.

Awesome progress though! Keep those pictures coming!

 

[STINEY]

Looks great! That is a space to be proud of.

Not to rain on your parade by any means, but after dealing with my barns I am concerned for you about the lack of a post to the floor on the right side.

Not that I see it as a safety thing, but I am 99% certain you will start to see some weird-not good movement in the structure due to that upper beam bearing on the horizontal beam with no support directly to the floor.

We had a similar setup on one of our end walls. Years before we got the place someone had removed a post like that, and the pegs were sheared and the tenons breaking off in the upper level. And our span was only 18' between ground posts.....our upper post really really wanted to bear straight to the ground.

Food for thought anyways, would hate to see you have to address the same issues we did. The cure was cheap and relatively simple, but would have been a mess if we had sided the barn before the cure happened, that corner area needed to go up 12" to fix the tenons. That's a lot of siding headaches.

Awesome progress though! Keep those pictures coming!

 

[BigNuge]

Thanks!

Yeah, that missing post is temporary. As soon as the pad is a month old I will be reconstructing the post/beam arrangement like I did on the left (East) side. I felt it was fine to simply take the post out that was once on the right because it had been rotted at the bottom for over a year now, and bearing no weight at all. Seeing as I have taken roughly 6000# of junk wood/insulation/materials out of the second story, the barn has gotten a lot lighter...lol.

In the end I will have proper structural support under that post for sure!

 

[Mr. Roboto]

Just a quick update on the project.

As you already know, the pad is poured. The look has improved greatly since it has cured more. Here are some pics from Friday (which makes it 7 days old):







It looks even better today than it did Friday! You cannot distinguish between the two pours (truck/hand) now. I think the warmer temps are really helping with the curing process.

I still haven't driven a vehicle on it. Only my lawn tractor so it doesn't have to spend anymore nights outside...lol. I think I might pull the truck in today though, I think 9 days should be enough for a pickup truck...

Wow...that blended up great! looking good.

 

[Pointbock]

The missing post wouldn't be good long-term but your plan sounds good. Those old barns held many, many tons of hay for years. You'll be fine.

I didn't check all the pics - did you have manger, stanchions, and gutter to deal with? Or is the rest of the floor smooth/flat?

 

[BigNuge]

The missing post wouldn't be good long-term but your plan sounds good. Those old barns held many, many tons of hay for years. You'll be fine.

I didn't check all the pics - did you have manger, stanchions, and gutter to deal with? Or is the rest of the floor smooth/flat?

Funny you mention stanchions & gutters. I removed all of the remaining stanchions years ago (to open the barn up for better storage). I still have several of them stored on the second floor (at the behest of my wife....). The gutter/waste trough was removed by the excavator on the front half of the barn during the pad prep. The gutter remains towards the rear half though. If I renovate the rear half (very likely in the future) I'll be removing it there too.

Did my first official repair in the shop, A/C compressor clutch relay replacement. Love it already, and the shop is far from finished!!




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[BigNuge]

So time is ticking away....approaching time for the next round of structural work in the barn. The roof goes on in 2-3 weeks.

All that said, I was thinking lighting. I thought I had a solid direction on lighting, but some recent research has me reconsidering. Initially I wanted to avoid using fluorescent lighting. I know the modern stuff is pretty good, and gets bright in the cold relatively quickly. I just think is it only a matter of time before the never-ending overreaching law making machine in Washington outlaws fluorescent lighting because of its minuscule mercury content. Anyway, I was thinking of going with several 48" dual bulb shop lights in the LED variety. I have looked at some, read about some, watched a bunch of YouTube videos.....ok, yeah they ****. **** light output, expensive fixtures.

I am thinking that option is going to be a no go. I'm getting ready to purchase the first batch of lights for the barn (figure I'll need 12 - 48" units for everything) and I need to make this decision.

Thoughts??


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[Bib Overalls]

I am very happy with the 48" T8 fixtures I have been putting up in my shop recently. The price is reasonable. I'll upgrade to LED when they become competitive price wise.

 

[BigNuge]

I am very happy with the 48" T8 fixtures I have been putting up in my shop recently. The price is reasonable. I'll upgrade to LED when they become competitive price wise.

Are they the 2 bulb or 4 bulb models?


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[BigNuge]

Well, big things happening lately. Been making good progress on the shop. Lots of new beams,, roof going on this weekend.

Stay tuned, I'll be posting up pics on Sunday.

Quick question...I now have the workbench area all framed out and opened up. There is a huge amount of space there. I want a nice big bench that I can walk all the way around. I was thinking a 4 x 8 to make it easy (one full sheet of good thick plywood), but now it looks like I can go bigger. I know most will say this is a silly question, but is there such thing as too much bench? If it is so big that you rarely use the center area, or you just find more **** to park it do you regret it? Is a 4x8 plenty of bench??


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[quietsailor]

I've seen 10' X 6' sheets of timber/chipboard - do you think you'd be doing large scale woodwork in the future, it would be handy to have a bench capable of taking large sheets.

Another idea is to have different sides for different jobs - one side for woodworking, another for tearing down engines. There's a thread on here for building welding benches but a lot of the ideas on that could apply to your bench
- adding in hitch receiver tubes under the bench so you can swop vices, grinders in and out.
- having power and air points scattered along the periphery.

 

[sublime68charger]

Big Nuge nice place will be looking forward to updated pics on Sunday

 

[Mr. Roboto]

Well, big things happening lately. Been making good progress on the shop. Lots of new beams,, roof going on this weekend.

Stay tuned, I'll be posting up pics on Sunday.

Quick question...I now have the workbench area all framed out and opened up. There is a huge amount of space there. I want a nice big bench that I can walk all the way around. I was thinking a 4 x 8 to make it easy (one full sheet of good thick plywood), but now it looks like I can go bigger. I know most will say this is a silly question, but is there such thing as too much bench? If it is so big that you rarely use the center area, or you just find more **** to park it do you regret it? Is a 4x8 plenty of bench??


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Can't wait for the pics - you going with shingles or a metal roof?

I would not go any bigger than 4 feet for an island type bench. We had a island that was 6 x 6 at one of the shops I worked at in the past. It was way too big. It was an absolute bear to walk around if you needed to get to the other side (you wouldn't think it's a big deal, but it gets old). Also, if there's something on the edge of one side of the bench, you cant reach it from the other side, and are forced to walk around. Unless you do a lot of work with big assemblies....less can be more.