Updated Chinese Cut50F Group Buy
- Thread starter Aquamoose
- Start date
warweapon762
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2013
- Messages
- 323
Received mine today! Thank you!
HammerMechanic
Well-known member
6-50p
63roundbody
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2010
- Messages
- 128
Received mine today, everything is good. Thanks Sean, time to cut some stuff.
Tom
Tom
bczygan
Well-known member
You can't get them in locking can you?
So a 50 amp plug for a 25 amp device? The cord from the unit seems to be 12 gauge, which is not rated for 25 amp I realize, but it also will not work with a 50 amp plug because of the conductor size, or insulator jacket (whatever it's called, the OD of the cable is too small)
jask
Well-known member
waiting.... like a kid at Christmas.
amac70
Well-known member
got mine someday i will put it together and use it, hopefully someday soon. Unit is tiny, not what i was expecting but it looks good.
I guess this should not surprise me.... Typical when you have been waiting a long time for something....This is my tracking info.
Location Date Local Time Activity
18/06/2015 5:04 A mechanical failure has delayed delivery. We're adjusting plans to deliver your package as quickly as possible. / Delivery will be rescheduled.
Salt Lake City, UT, United States 17/06/2015 0:17 Departure Scan
Salt Lake City, UT, United States 16/06/2015 21:40 Arrival Scan
Heyburn, ID, United States 16/06/2015 18:28 Departure Scan
16/06/2015 17:18 Arrival Scan
Nampa, ID, United States 16/06/2015 14:17 Departure Scan
16/06/2015 13:36 Arrival Scan
Hermiston, OR, United States 16/06/2015 8:00 Departure Scan
16/06/2015 7:39 Arrival Scan
Spokane, WA, United States 16/06/2015 3:33 Departure Scan
Spokane, WA, United States 15/06/2015 20:48 Origin Scan
15/06/2015 15:44 The shipment has been dropped off and is now at a UPS Retail Location.
United States 13/06/2015 2:43 Order Processed: Ready for UPS
Location Date Local Time Activity
18/06/2015 5:04 A mechanical failure has delayed delivery. We're adjusting plans to deliver your package as quickly as possible. / Delivery will be rescheduled.
Salt Lake City, UT, United States 17/06/2015 0:17 Departure Scan
Salt Lake City, UT, United States 16/06/2015 21:40 Arrival Scan
Heyburn, ID, United States 16/06/2015 18:28 Departure Scan
16/06/2015 17:18 Arrival Scan
Nampa, ID, United States 16/06/2015 14:17 Departure Scan
16/06/2015 13:36 Arrival Scan
Hermiston, OR, United States 16/06/2015 8:00 Departure Scan
16/06/2015 7:39 Arrival Scan
Spokane, WA, United States 16/06/2015 3:33 Departure Scan
Spokane, WA, United States 15/06/2015 20:48 Origin Scan
15/06/2015 15:44 The shipment has been dropped off and is now at a UPS Retail Location.
United States 13/06/2015 2:43 Order Processed: Ready for UPS
lonesouth
Well-known member
i would laugh except mine looks like a greyhound route across the country...such is the case with ground shipments though, i suppose.
KyleQ
Well-known member
No shipping info for me yet...
boman
Member
Me either...
tonydanzah
Well-known member
same here, hope im in the next group
wbrian63
Well-known member
Got time to open the box last night. Nothing missing, but I must strongly stress to all purchasers here to follow Moose's suggestions to open the case up and check all the boards, etc.
In my situation, there is a board that is attached to two long standoffs near the front of the machine. One of the screws was so loose that it was sitting in the bag that surrounds the cutter. The other was attached by barely a thread. I don't know whether the board might come into contact with other internal items if left the way I found it, but it doesn't pay to take chances.
Otherwise, everything looks OK. I need to get a plug so I can test further.
I am in agreement with Moose on the connector for the trigger line - WTF? Little line through big hole with no strain relief? Granted, there's no stress on the line, as it runs coaxially with the main cord to the gun, but I can see a real problem if someone were to disconnect the main line before releasing the trigger. I'll bet that if the main line fell away free, it would rip the wires right out of the plug.
I'll be working up a solution to this design flaw.
Anyway - still in awe of what a deal I got, even before making the first cut.
BTW - if you're ready for a quick laugh, read the warnings section of the "owners manual" - did you know that it's not a good idea to use the welder for heating or charging????? Now I know what I've been doing wrong all these years!!!
In my situation, there is a board that is attached to two long standoffs near the front of the machine. One of the screws was so loose that it was sitting in the bag that surrounds the cutter. The other was attached by barely a thread. I don't know whether the board might come into contact with other internal items if left the way I found it, but it doesn't pay to take chances.
Otherwise, everything looks OK. I need to get a plug so I can test further.
I am in agreement with Moose on the connector for the trigger line - WTF? Little line through big hole with no strain relief? Granted, there's no stress on the line, as it runs coaxially with the main cord to the gun, but I can see a real problem if someone were to disconnect the main line before releasing the trigger. I'll bet that if the main line fell away free, it would rip the wires right out of the plug.
I'll be working up a solution to this design flaw.
Anyway - still in awe of what a deal I got, even before making the first cut.
BTW - if you're ready for a quick laugh, read the warnings section of the "owners manual" - did you know that it's not a good idea to use the welder for heating or charging????? Now I know what I've been doing wrong all these years!!!
twertsy
Well-known member
That is likely in reference to the technique of breaking the crystals up in a CAD battery via the use of a welder and recharging it. Youtube search it. Oh, and it works great.
AnEv942
Well-known member
Whoo!WHOO!
I know some are still waiting... but its HERE!
After 4 months-sorta hard to believe. As I hadn't picked up plug yet I cant test. Sure hope it works as I also found some issues and felt compelled to address. Some mods and chages- probably add to the "now I've a cutter thread" but for those 'inspecting' Ill add what I found.
I'm pretty stoked- for $200 gladly play with it to get going and fix how I think it should be.
That said, Same as so far identified, main power cord nut loose, though I m replacing with longer cord. The torch connections, yup accident waiting to happen. As they're pretty long eventually get reworked- maybe some small tube or add shrink tube till the wires are restrained. But later.
What I did find was clearance issues. Middle board was tweaked pretty bad.
Like flexed downward almost 3/16".
I loosened the nut, top of copper L bar- you can see the board relaxed upward. Loosened the nut air/torch connection, nope wont go up any more.
Removed the L bracket and slotted. Checked the other side. ok
top right side by ground screw (removed as I'm rewiring) Noticed the small vertical board on top was under cross bar pushing it down good 1/8". I removed the side cross angle and notched. Board now setting at angle?
Checked other side cross bar angle and red/back wires from forward most plug were tight against it-pushing down board.
Removed cross bar and notched.
Lastly forward part of top main board hangs out unsupported 3", so I need to make some sort of stand off to immobilize. A good jar or vibration could easily cause board trace fail. Minor stuff really-IF this works-I should have tested 1st.
I did rework the line in the back. One was the orange gauge line. Pulled out and enlarged hole for grommet-didn't like direct metal on tube.
I'm going to get an air drier eventually, if this works-got short air line to run between cutter and drier but as I haven't picked drier up yet so plumbed small inline.
I thought Aquamooses idea for tidying up was a good idea. Unless it really bugs you I wouldn't recommend. Bit of work. However
Inlet is directly connected to small valve inside you need to access, removal requires a bit of effort.
Finally got it but painful, though mostly because I wanted valve and fitting to sandwich case. Easier if valve otherwise secured, open up thru hole case and just poke fitting thru-one of those commitment thing once started but I was regretting it. Took way too much effort but turned out nice though wouldnt do again...
I know some are still waiting... but its HERE!
After 4 months-sorta hard to believe. As I hadn't picked up plug yet I cant test. Sure hope it works as I also found some issues and felt compelled to address. Some mods and chages- probably add to the "now I've a cutter thread" but for those 'inspecting' Ill add what I found.
I'm pretty stoked- for $200 gladly play with it to get going and fix how I think it should be.
That said, Same as so far identified, main power cord nut loose, though I m replacing with longer cord. The torch connections, yup accident waiting to happen. As they're pretty long eventually get reworked- maybe some small tube or add shrink tube till the wires are restrained. But later.
What I did find was clearance issues. Middle board was tweaked pretty bad.
Like flexed downward almost 3/16".
I loosened the nut, top of copper L bar- you can see the board relaxed upward. Loosened the nut air/torch connection, nope wont go up any more.
Removed the L bracket and slotted. Checked the other side. ok
top right side by ground screw (removed as I'm rewiring) Noticed the small vertical board on top was under cross bar pushing it down good 1/8". I removed the side cross angle and notched. Board now setting at angle?
Checked other side cross bar angle and red/back wires from forward most plug were tight against it-pushing down board.
Removed cross bar and notched.
Lastly forward part of top main board hangs out unsupported 3", so I need to make some sort of stand off to immobilize. A good jar or vibration could easily cause board trace fail. Minor stuff really-IF this works-I should have tested 1st.
I did rework the line in the back. One was the orange gauge line. Pulled out and enlarged hole for grommet-didn't like direct metal on tube.
I'm going to get an air drier eventually, if this works-got short air line to run between cutter and drier but as I haven't picked drier up yet so plumbed small inline.
I thought Aquamooses idea for tidying up was a good idea. Unless it really bugs you I wouldn't recommend. Bit of work. However
Inlet is directly connected to small valve inside you need to access, removal requires a bit of effort.
Finally got it but painful, though mostly because I wanted valve and fitting to sandwich case. Easier if valve otherwise secured, open up thru hole case and just poke fitting thru-one of those commitment thing once started but I was regretting it. Took way too much effort but turned out nice though wouldnt do again...
Last edited:
Got mine yesterday as specified by UPS. Took the covers off and checked/tightened stuff- OK. Took the plug (Cooper 50A) off my old HF Chicago Electric mig stored out in a shed and installed on the new cutter. Verified it powered up and quit for the day. Today I made up a couple short air hoses and a filter/regulator to feed the new cutter. Set it up for .35 on the air with the trigger pulled and cut some scrap 16ga steel over a plastic bucket. nice clean cut. I didn't try anything thicker. All looks OK, no problems.
MoparTrucks
Well-known member
I'm jealous of you guys who have gotten them already..I am in the MO group and haven't been notified yet!
Any pictures of you guys using them? I have a project just waiting.
Any pictures of you guys using them? I have a project just waiting.
AnEv942
Well-known member
Not using but I finally got mine wired and test cut. Getting late but anxious to verify it works threw up scrap 1/4". Pretty rusty. Having never used one and no recommendations or chart started out bout 25A, 55 on air, First thing I did, as it wasnt cutting thru, was drag the stand off thru puddle, err. Played with power and air. Think this is going to require some practice and get a feel for set up,speeds before I commit my project metals.. Have some 3/16" flat bar waiting to get cut.
Left is where I started, not stopping to clean stand off kept catching and was cutting a quite an angle. BUT cut some arcs then cut the saw tooth, like hot knife thru butter. Stoked., Only cut for a few minutes though.
Think and extra stand off (or few) is in order. That and some masks, could have been the rust but man was it dusty. Need a moose decal!
Left is where I started, not stopping to clean stand off kept catching and was cutting a quite an angle. BUT cut some arcs then cut the saw tooth, like hot knife thru butter. Stoked., Only cut for a few minutes though.
Think and extra stand off (or few) is in order. That and some masks, could have been the rust but man was it dusty. Need a moose decal!
Nice to see that some of you guys are getting yours to experiment with. I've yet to touch mine. Sits pretty but that's all. I finally got things wrapped up with work and I've got time set aside to do some major shipping for the 3rd batch.
I've resolved to not play with mine until I get all of the cutters shipped, sort of like the Captain of the ship stuff, last man off. I've been feeling bad for not being able to get around to shipping more...
What I've decided to do sometime tomorrow is to update the list to reflect "acknowledgement" status because I know some of you guys are worried if I got your message or not.
Hope to make the most of you happy tomorrow when you receive your email shipment notifications!
Sean
I've resolved to not play with mine until I get all of the cutters shipped, sort of like the Captain of the ship stuff, last man off. I've been feeling bad for not being able to get around to shipping more...
What I've decided to do sometime tomorrow is to update the list to reflect "acknowledgement" status because I know some of you guys are worried if I got your message or not.
Hope to make the most of you happy tomorrow when you receive your email shipment notifications!
Sean
gayler
Well-known member
Thanks for the update Moose! How many shipments are yet to come? Look forward to giving a review!
donthelegend
Well-known member
Got mine unpacked, hooked up and was able to cut stuff! Thanks Aquamoose, for all your time and effort!
Quick note from using my thermal dynamics cutter for the last 10+ years . Take your grinder and clean the spot where the grounding clamps is this will improve most cutting operation especially on rusty or painted metal. I will have to check but I think I was running my torch at around 75 psi if our new unit has a purge setting ( air flows but no cutting arc) you can see what pressure you are getting as the regulators setting is usually not the flow that you get. Remember the air is basically pushing the plasma out.
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bucksnort59
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 215
KSJeff
Well-known member
Got mine! Thank you Sean!
gayler
Well-known member
Got a tracking number!! Thanks moose!
VDubJoe
Well-known member
Got my tracking number. Thanks.
Joe
Joe
Badasssapper67
Well-known member
No tracking number, Argh!
tonydanzah
Well-known member
woohoo got my tracking number! Thanks Moose
gwunsch
Well-known member
Finally got to cut some metal! It's alive!
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gayler
Well-known member
What did you cut and how did it go?
KyleQ
Well-known member
Got my tracking info - I'm looking forward to it!
TheOtherChris
Well-known member
Got my tracking number!
donthelegend
Well-known member
After practicing on some random scraps I cut some half inch plate that's going to become two welding tables in half... There's definitely a bit of a learning curve, some sections are really straight with minimal dross, others were quite ugly and will require a lot of cleanup, but overall it handled the 1/2" plate without trouble.
danfromsyr
Well-known member
Hoping for a tracking number soon.. as I'll be away for the 4th of July weekend and will probably have to have a neighbor keep a eye out. 
Donthelegend the photo will not blow up enough for me tell you what is going wrong. When cutting plate thicker then 1/4" it is all about your technique. Using a guide bar will help keep you straight. It looks like you had no stand off on the bottom side of your cut the plasma/ dross needs some where to go or the Molten metal will adhere to the bottom. Also note depending on the water content in the cement it will shatter! If you are cutting at the right speed and angle the dross will chip off with a stick slag hammer with one bang if you are traveling to slow it will take a grinder to remove.
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donthelegend
Well-known member
There was an 1/8" metal plate underneath during the cut to protect the concrete and the 1/2" plate was about 3" off the floor. I think the biggest issue was maintaining a consistent cutting speed and angle. I'll try to get a couple of better pics of the actual cuts tonight.