All paid-for cutters have been distributed. I have two cutters available and I'm currently reaching out to the following on the "Purple" list...
317 - Mindedc
82 - pwhittle
As some of you were aware, the Port had a "soft strike", forcing the shipment to Long Beach to be freighted up via train to Seattle. If that never happened, I would have been out ahead with the fees but unfortunately, it cost me more. The original fee was $18.80 ea. based on 120 cutters ordered. This was factored in the price of the cutters. If it wasn't for the "soft strike", the fee would have gone down to $18.58 ea. but instead, it has gone up to $20.17 ea. This puts me about $274 in the red. Some of you have anted up extras and fortunately, it basically took care of that which is a good thing.
FINAL UPDATE: 7/24/15
Original figures based on 120 cutters -
$30.00______ISF (Importer security filing)
$50.00______ISF Bond
$175.00_____THC (Terminal handling charge)
$95.00______Clearance (Entry)
$65.00______Handling
$110.00_____Bond (based on 120 pcs)
$810.00_____Duty (like tariff, based on machines that cuts metal)
$920.00____Delivery
$2230 total (based on 120 - $18.80 ea)
Final figures based on 200 cutters -
$30.00______ISF (Importer security filing)
$50.00______ISF Bond
$150.00_____THC (Terminal handling charge)
$95.00______Clearance (Entry)
$50.00______Handling
$110.00_____Bond (based on 120 pcs)
$1628.00____Duty (like tariff, based on machines that cuts metal)
$342.20_____Ocean fee
$85.00______Entry fee
$25.00______Courier
$75.00______Handling charge
$48.44______Chassis rental fee
$24.22______Clean truck fee
$60.55______Pier pass charge
$25.00______Port Security Charge
$84.77______Exam fee (x-ray)
$1150.00____Delivery
$4033.18 total (based on 200 - $20.17 ea)
I hope everyone were satisfied with their cutters. I wished I had more time dedicated to ship them out in a more timely manner, for that I apologize.
I will continue to maintain [email protected] for warranty issues & questions, all documents are boxed up with the warranty cutters & parts in a wooden case. They are now residing at a spot in my shop. (think Indiana Jones - Raiders of the lost Ark style)
(fade to black...)
I finally had the chance to go over the cutter itself and came across some stuff which I thought I'd share with you all before receiving it. The instructions weren't clear on some things and can be a little confusing. But I have to say, it's written much better than other Chinese stuff.
A few pics:
When I opened mine, I discovered that some screws were loose so I proceeded to go over it closely to see what needs more attention and I found a few things. Your cutter may be in better shape but it can't hurt to go over it just to make sure.
For starters, here's what I did.
Take off the cover by removing the 5 screws on each side.
Tighten the power cable grommet at the rear by holding the nut on the inside. (no pics)
Inspect the components for any loose connections (mine was fine)
Tighten the screws that hold the forward circuit board from the bottom (it was loose)
Tighten the rubber feets but not too much (it was slightly too loose)
Checked the orange hose connection & routing to the front gauge & replaced the cover.
At this point, I proceeded to install the regulator. DO keep in mind that you'll only need one of the barb fitting and install your choice of male air connector on the inlet so get one.
I used plumber's pipe thread sealant that comes in a small tube. I highly recommend it because it just works better. You'll find that the black 90° fitting that's supplied with the regulator will appear to be quite loose when screwed on. The sealant takes care of that. Note that the instructions made no mention of this orange tube.
Next, I didn't like the excess orange tubing so I cut it off shorter.
It went together fine but noticed that I MAY modify the air supply line from the regulator to the cutter by installing two 90° fittings to sharpen things up rather than have it stick out like the way it is now.
Next is what I found. Not too good but not the end of the world...
I took the switch trigger back off to rework it and discovered that the connector was of poor construction so please be careful installing it. It works fine but I may replace it later. The connector end where the wires are soldered to have very find threads and it easily got stripped. The left end of the connector body (strain relief) doesn't even clamp on the cable.
So proceed carefully. I dressed it up with a single wire tie to finish off the front.
Finally, it took me a while to brainstorm about the electrical connection. I was at my local farm / ranch store (North 40 Outfitter, which is a balls-to-the-wall guy store!) and noticed their 230vac Hobart welders that used a 3 pronged 50a connector so I decided that this is the way to go since eventually I'll get a larger MIG welder and want the same electrical plug for the welding area.
Now this brings up a problem (at least for me), the plug already comes with a large hole and an internal clamp to hold the cable in and personally, it looks crappy so I came up with a creative solution! Here's what I did...
The connector was something I've had before and it's a specialized strain relief connector that's also designed to be waterproof. I did pick up a similar item from Home Depot that you can use just as well (if you don't mind the gray) It's designed to fit in a 1" hole. You don't need the nut & rubber seal.
And it's installed like this:
And voila!
317 - Mindedc
82 - pwhittle
As some of you were aware, the Port had a "soft strike", forcing the shipment to Long Beach to be freighted up via train to Seattle. If that never happened, I would have been out ahead with the fees but unfortunately, it cost me more. The original fee was $18.80 ea. based on 120 cutters ordered. This was factored in the price of the cutters. If it wasn't for the "soft strike", the fee would have gone down to $18.58 ea. but instead, it has gone up to $20.17 ea. This puts me about $274 in the red. Some of you have anted up extras and fortunately, it basically took care of that which is a good thing.
FINAL UPDATE: 7/24/15
Original figures based on 120 cutters -
$30.00______ISF (Importer security filing)
$50.00______ISF Bond
$175.00_____THC (Terminal handling charge)
$95.00______Clearance (Entry)
$65.00______Handling
$110.00_____Bond (based on 120 pcs)
$810.00_____Duty (like tariff, based on machines that cuts metal)
$920.00____Delivery
$2230 total (based on 120 - $18.80 ea)
Final figures based on 200 cutters -
$30.00______ISF (Importer security filing)
$50.00______ISF Bond
$150.00_____THC (Terminal handling charge)
$95.00______Clearance (Entry)
$50.00______Handling
$110.00_____Bond (based on 120 pcs)
$1628.00____Duty (like tariff, based on machines that cuts metal)
$342.20_____Ocean fee
$85.00______Entry fee
$25.00______Courier
$75.00______Handling charge
$48.44______Chassis rental fee
$24.22______Clean truck fee
$60.55______Pier pass charge
$25.00______Port Security Charge
$84.77______Exam fee (x-ray)
$1150.00____Delivery
$4033.18 total (based on 200 - $20.17 ea)
I hope everyone were satisfied with their cutters. I wished I had more time dedicated to ship them out in a more timely manner, for that I apologize.
I will continue to maintain [email protected] for warranty issues & questions, all documents are boxed up with the warranty cutters & parts in a wooden case. They are now residing at a spot in my shop. (think Indiana Jones - Raiders of the lost Ark style)
(fade to black...)
Important & supplemental information about the cutter
I finally had the chance to go over the cutter itself and came across some stuff which I thought I'd share with you all before receiving it. The instructions weren't clear on some things and can be a little confusing. But I have to say, it's written much better than other Chinese stuff.
A few pics:
When I opened mine, I discovered that some screws were loose so I proceeded to go over it closely to see what needs more attention and I found a few things. Your cutter may be in better shape but it can't hurt to go over it just to make sure.
For starters, here's what I did.
Take off the cover by removing the 5 screws on each side.
Tighten the power cable grommet at the rear by holding the nut on the inside. (no pics)
Inspect the components for any loose connections (mine was fine)
Tighten the screws that hold the forward circuit board from the bottom (it was loose)
Tighten the rubber feets but not too much (it was slightly too loose)
Checked the orange hose connection & routing to the front gauge & replaced the cover.
At this point, I proceeded to install the regulator. DO keep in mind that you'll only need one of the barb fitting and install your choice of male air connector on the inlet so get one.
I used plumber's pipe thread sealant that comes in a small tube. I highly recommend it because it just works better. You'll find that the black 90° fitting that's supplied with the regulator will appear to be quite loose when screwed on. The sealant takes care of that. Note that the instructions made no mention of this orange tube.
Next, I didn't like the excess orange tubing so I cut it off shorter.
It went together fine but noticed that I MAY modify the air supply line from the regulator to the cutter by installing two 90° fittings to sharpen things up rather than have it stick out like the way it is now.
Next is what I found. Not too good but not the end of the world...
I took the switch trigger back off to rework it and discovered that the connector was of poor construction so please be careful installing it. It works fine but I may replace it later. The connector end where the wires are soldered to have very find threads and it easily got stripped. The left end of the connector body (strain relief) doesn't even clamp on the cable.
So proceed carefully. I dressed it up with a single wire tie to finish off the front.
Finally, it took me a while to brainstorm about the electrical connection. I was at my local farm / ranch store (North 40 Outfitter, which is a balls-to-the-wall guy store!) and noticed their 230vac Hobart welders that used a 3 pronged 50a connector so I decided that this is the way to go since eventually I'll get a larger MIG welder and want the same electrical plug for the welding area.
Now this brings up a problem (at least for me), the plug already comes with a large hole and an internal clamp to hold the cable in and personally, it looks crappy so I came up with a creative solution! Here's what I did...
The connector was something I've had before and it's a specialized strain relief connector that's also designed to be waterproof. I did pick up a similar item from Home Depot that you can use just as well (if you don't mind the gray) It's designed to fit in a 1" hole. You don't need the nut & rubber seal.
And it's installed like this:
And voila!
Last edited:
