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How to secure hose spigot to brick?

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jhall0712

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The other brick thread reminded me I need to finish this.

I recently ran water to my garage, and decided to add a water spigot to the front of my garage for easy hookup for car washes, etc. The line is run, hole drilled for the spigot in the brick, and connections made. However, I'm not sure how to secure the thing to the wall.

The hole I drilled is too big to secure the spigot with screws, but small enough the silcock still covers it. I have it sealed with caulk now, but obviously it's not going to stand up to a hose pulling on it.

Anybody have an idea?

Www.Imgur.com/i4wVQ95
 
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The Cobbler

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You're saying that the hole you drilled in the brick is too big so you can't screw the flange to the brick? How about long bolts thru to the inside of he garage?
Actually, the solder joint would be fairly robust and probably don't need any more...
 
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jhall0712

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Yeah. I attached a picture, but basically the flange just barely covers the hole. And it's connected with PEX and push on fittings.
 
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G_P

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Is this a frost free sillcock? If so there has to be some kind of clamp you can put around the metal body of the sillcock to keep it from pulling out of the brick.
 
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jhall0712

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No it's not. Hardly ever freezes here. Plus it's not a heated garage anyway so I just plan on being dilligent with shutting it off if I need to.
 
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ishiboo

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Mix up some fiberglass resin and filler (sawdust, micro balloons, wood flour, Cabosil, etc) and fill the first inch of the hole. Then re-drill and screw properly.
 
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ket-tek

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jhall0712 said:
Will grout hold it in place? It wont just still pull out?
Click to expand...

After you pack it if you have access to the back where the pipe is you could tighten a hose clamp around the pipe up against the inner wall this would keep the bib from pulling out of the block if there is play in the lineset.

Although this wouldn't stop the bib from rotating, which is the problem I have, the bib doesn't pull out but when I start pulling on the hose the bib will turn and I'm always scared it's gonna crack the piping in the crawlspace.

If your bib is similar to the ones I have the damn flange is so small there is practically no lip to hit with a screw and the nature of hammer drilling brick/block always will be difficult to get an anchor to mount solid so close to the edge of the drilled hole. I wish the bib had a much larger flange where I could get 2 mounting anchors in it.
 
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2010nctaco

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When I worked new construction plumbing, we installed a bracket that went on the inside of the brick that attached around the pipe and then against the brick that kept it from rotating or pulling out.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
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jhall0712

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ket-tek said:
After you pack it if you have access to the back where the pipe is you could tighten a hose clamp around the pipe up against the inner wall this would keep the bib from pulling out of the block if there is play in the lineset.

Although this wouldn't stop the bib from rotating, which is the problem I have, the bib doesn't pull out but when I start pulling on the hose the bib will turn and I'm always scared it's gonna crack the piping in the crawlspace.

If your bib is similar to the ones I have the damn flange is so small there is practically no lip to hit with a screw and the nature of hammer drilling brick/block always will be difficult to get an anchor to mount solid so close to the edge of the drilled hole. I wish the bib had a much larger flange where I could get 2 mounting anchors in it.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the same flange! If I can't figure anything else out the hose clamp might be a good trick.

2010nctaco said:
When I worked new construction plumbing, we installed a bracket that went on the inside of the brick that attached around the pipe and then against the brick that kept it from rotating or pulling out.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

I'll have to see if I can find this.

sberry said:
put a gob of silicone behind it, shove it in and let set 24 hrs, hope you don't want it out.
Click to expand...

Tried that. It's already pulling out. :sad:
 
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jhall0712

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2010nctaco said:
When I worked new construction plumbing, we installed a bracket that went on the inside of the brick that attached around the pipe and then against the brick that kept it from rotating or pulling out.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

You the man. I found this that should work great!
 
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sgs

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I think as Smoky suggested above. ..what about a small chunk of 1/8 or so thick flat iron cut same basic shape as the taps flange but bigger with a U shaped cut out to slide over the copper pipe. Secure the flat iron to the brick and the fkange to the flat iron. Paint and beer.

Gordon S.
 
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Shadowdog500

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When I bought my house the hole for the spigot was way too big and looked awful. I screwed a piece of king starboard to the brick and mounted the spigot to that.

Chris
 
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bigpokie

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Use a big washer for the hole. As far as the pulling out part. Look up split ring hangers. That's what we suggest at work. You could use it by it self pulled tight up against the wall or get the celing plate and use 3/8" threaded rod and bolt it to something. They do make kits that are made for it. But split ring hanger will work just fine
 
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NUTTSGT

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sgs said:
I think as Smoky suggested above. ..what about a small chunk of 1/8 or so thick flat iron cut same basic shape as the taps flange but bigger with a U shaped cut out to slide over the copper pipe. Secure the flat iron to the brick and the fkange to the flat iron. Paint and beer.

Gordon S.
Click to expand...

I like Smokey's suggestion too as it's what I would have posted if he hadn't. I would suggest using a piece of aluminum or stainless rather than flat iron due to maintenance.
 
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ket-tek

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jhall0712 said:
You the man. I found this that should work great!
Click to expand...

This piece does look perfect, obviously stops it from pulling out but then if you make small holes for the set screws to set into the block it won't rotate either.

No messing with mounting screws in the front brick fascia on the tiny outer flange! I think I may order one of these and give it a try, although they may have them at lowes and I just didn't notice them there before.

41qE2WwGn4L.jpg
 
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59 wagon man

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problem is you have pex and nothing is going to really work , not even that neat little doohickey . best advice you will get is pull out the bibb and pex and make the piece thru the wall copper tubing and then either you can use that doohickey shown above or a reg copper plated riser clamp or just strap it too the wall. pex is too soft and nothing will hold it well.
if the inside wall is going to be left unfinished this is fine . if you never be able to get to this in the future i suggest ditch the sillcock and put a female adapter a little out from the wall,and use a boiler drain this way when the hose bibb starts to leak it is easy to replace .
 
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jhall0712

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I ordered the piece pictured above. The spigot is actually attached to cpvc through the wall. There is a 90° elbow in the wall that transitions it to pex. So that part will actually attach to the cpvc. It will work fine, I just haven't had time to install it yet!

Thanks everyone.


Edit to say I just finished the walls inside not that long ago and put in an access panel for easy repairs. Worked out for me already!
 
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foamer01

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Lippyp said:
Do it properly, clean the caulk out and fill the hole around the pipe with mortar and redrill.
Click to expand...

Not sure what caulk you are talking about? I didn't have any caulk. But hey, I would rather do it half assed. Thanks for the info though.
 
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Jackfre

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Run the pex to a "drop ear 90 pex X fpt adapter. Screw that 90 to a mounting block thru the supplied ears. That anchors the whole assembly. Get one of the hose bibs that has a 3" or so stub on it. Screw that into the wall and silicone, grout, foam it in
 
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