The VISES of Garage Journal

[CastleBravo]

I need some information and some suggestions. I bought this Toledo 00 pipe vise yesterday. As you can see I was able to get all the parts off.

EXCEPT one.



Does anyone know what this second shaft is for? (No off color puns, please.) It seems to be a depth stop. Can you give me suggestions for removing the nut? I have tried WD 40, heat, boxed end wrench, and a socket with breaker bar. I even tried turning it upside down and putting the nut in another vise then trying to turn the main body of the pipe vise. You can see that the nut has begun to round over so I thought I'd better ask for suggestions before it gets too round. It might not show up in these photos but the upper pipe jaw is threaded onto the the bottom of the shaft. It turns but there is not enough room to swing it completely around so it can't be removed until the shaft turns. Did I buy a $5 paperweight?

Morning. Looking at how closely the threads and that lip on the nut match, I don't think it is actually a nut. Maybe one machined part?

Also it looks more like it is intended to help distribute pressure on the long axis of the pipe rather than a depth gauge. I say this because of the way the piece is tied into the other shaft on the right. As you raise or lower the one, the other should follow suit.

Just a thought.


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[CRSINMICH]

Morning. Looking at how closely the threads and that lip on the nut match, I don't think it is actually a nut. Maybe one machined part?

Also it looks more like it is intended to help distribute pressure on the long axis of the pipe rather than a depth gauge. I say this because of the way the piece is tied into the other shaft on the right. As you raise or lower the one, the other should follow suit.

Just a thought.


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I'm working on the theory that this whole second shaft, nut and all, should slide up and down freely. It's attached to the screw which should raise and lower the shaft with it. If you have any ideas about how to free the shaft I'd be glad to here it. After it soaks for awhile, I'm going to try to drive it out from the bottom. Thanks.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Castle: I think you're right about distributing the pressure along the pipe. I don't know if you saw my post about the upper jaw being threaded onto the bottom of the shaft, but that means that the only way to remove the jaw would be by spinning the shaft. When I Googled this type of pipe vise I found a guy who said that he had only seen one other like this one that wasn't broken so I want to be as gentle as possible.

 

[Fretters]

I'm working on the theory that this whole second shaft, nut and all, should slide up and down freely. It's attached to the screw which should raise and lower the shaft with it. If you have any ideas about how to free the shaft I'd be glad to here it. After it soaks for awhile, I'm going to try to drive it out from the bottom. Thanks.

Clean the rust off that shaft either side of the body, (to stop any rust just jamming if it does shift), and refit the screw. Work that backwards and forwards to apply pressure to that follower. Trying to drive it out from the bottom will probably be folly. If whacking away is your thing, (sometimes it is about the only resort), get a deadblow or copper faced mallet going on the top of it, (refit the collar and nut first so that you don't risk mangling the thread). If you have no deadblow or soft faced mallet, use a block of wood and a heavy hammer.

If you do go the 'beating the **** out of it' route, try and jam a length of wood or such between to top of the frame and the base. I know that's sturdy cast, but it only needs to have one stress point. Brace the frame as best you can before pounding away.

 

[CwazyWabbit]

Now my question is, "Does anyone have a suggestion about how to free the shaft if driving it out with a punch doesn't work?"

Cwaze (you don't mind if I call you Cwaze, do you?) Your response came in as I was typing this one. I've got the shaft soaking in WD 40 as we type.

One idea I'd be tempted to try in this case would be to hold the casting in a vise with some soft jaws and then get a deep 6 sided socket that fits the nut that is machined into the shaft. Carefully try to twist the shaft back and forth.

 

[Zeroek]

My first vise. Not American made but won't be the last vise I buy.

 

[CastleBravo]

CRSINMICH I think you're on to it. Looking forward to your report!

Zeroek, nice addition.


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[va.grouseman]

I think I had the first or second bid. Too rich for my blood.

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Bagged, sometimes, when the water's just right, you got to roll up your britches, and wade in real gently, right up to your eyebrows.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Clean the rust off that shaft either side of the body, (to stop any rust just jamming if it does shift), and refit the screw. Work that backwards and forwards to apply pressure to that follower. Trying to drive it out from the bottom will probably be folly. If whacking away is your thing, (sometimes it is about the only resort), get a deadblow or copper faced mallet going on the top of it, (refit the collar and nut first so that you don't risk mangling the thread). If you have no deadblow or soft faced mallet, use a block of wood and a heavy hammer.

If you do go the 'beating the **** out of it' route, try and jam a length of wood or such between to top of the frame and the base. I know that's sturdy cast, but it only needs to have one stress point. Brace the frame as best you can before pounding away.

Fretters: I generally try to avoid BTCOOI but, as I've mentioned before Brute, Force, and Ignorance are my favorite restoration firm. I also mentioned in an earlier post that there is access to the bottom of the shaft through a screw hole in the bottom of the base. I was going to try a long, stout pin punch. After I soak it for a time, I'll see if the punch can get the shaft to move even a little. Outlaw is probably right that once it moves it should go quickly. I'll let everyone know how it turns out once it frees itself, it breaks, or I give up. Thanks for the warning and the suggestions. BTW I do have a copper mallet but I forgot about it until you brought it up.

 

[jakemac]

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Bagged, sometimes, when the water's just right, you got to roll up your britches, and wade in real gently, right up to your eyebrows.

Yeah, but it's that moment when you are on your tippy toes and the freezing cold water is just touching your crotch, while your boys are trying to crawl into your neck, when you have to decide to run back to the shore or just dive all in.

 

[va.grouseman]

Well Jake, I've already made up my mind, I'm going in whole hog on this one, I'm shooting the moon.---Out of the way bidders, this auction over.---I'm diving in the deep end, hope my balls can tread water or hold their breath.---This one is coming to papa, as long as the bid don't go over $250.00 of course.

 

[econotrk]

About 2 weeks ago a Prentiss swivel jaw vise came up on Clist. Not having the vise funds available at the time I lamented not being able to jump on it. Have seen very few swivel jaws in my area.

Surprise to me about ten days passed and it still showed on the list. E-mail the guy and leave him my phone #. He has it listed for $80 OBO but after further research decided he'd like to get $80. Says lots of $70 offers but he's pretty firm. We set up a time and place to meet and I pick up the vise. It's not been babied as shown by the rear slide being used as an anvil and a lot of errant hammer marks everywhere near the jaws. But it works great and I'm happy to have it home.

Although it's a 4 1/4" vise it's pretty light when compared to my 974 Chas Parker. I've seen others post here the Prentiss vises with the name behind the swivel jaw, if I remember correctly these were an older version.

 

[econotrk]

Another quest for me has been to find a Reed vise. Just so happens when I pick up the swivel jaw Prentiss the PO brings a small Reed along in case I'm interested. $20 and of course it came home with me. It's a little 103R and looks to have seen little to no use. No marks on the slide, jaws look like new, only problem is there's a couple of missing parts for retaining the lead screw.

Couple question, I know I need a half nut, but what is the function of the part that I'm missing behind the half nut. Also how did Reed hold their lead screw nut in place, I've got hole with yet another missing part.

 

[bagged89s10]

Another quest for me has been to find a Reed vise. Just so happens when I pick up the swivel jaw Prentiss the PO brings a small Reed along in case I'm interested. $20 and of course it came home with me. It's a little 103R and looks to have seen little to no use. No marks on the slide, jaws look like new, only problem is there's a couple of missing parts for retaining the lead screw.



Couple question, I know I need a half nut, but what is the function of the part that I'm missing behind the half nut. Also how did Reed hold their lead screw nut in place, I've got hole with yet another missing part.

Nice little Reed for $20. Those have a little pin which has a threaded hole in them with an adjuster screw. I'm sure you can easily make one.

 

[WildBuckwheat]

Kijiji, $45. I painted it and added some linseed oil to the bare parts.This will be the primary vise in my farm shop.

Its a Crawford model 60, made just up the road in Woodstock, Ontario. I could not find any information online besides a couple pictures from a poster earlier in this thread.

 

[McBrownie]

Although it's a 4 1/4" vise it's pretty light when compared to my 974 Chas Parker. I've seen others post here the Prentiss vises with the name behind the swivel jaw, if I remember correctly these were an older version.

My Prentiss No. 19 (3 1/2" jaws) is considerably lighter than my Parker 974. If you flip the dynamic jaw over, you will see one reason why. The Parker is solid (well, except for the spindle hole) and the Prentiss is hollow like most other vises. I've seen that pointed out in some Parker advertisements, as well. When I need to bang on something, I go straight for the Parker. But, I do like the swivel jaw.

Nice pickup, by the way, and I do believe that the ones with "Prentiss, NY" across the of the static are the oldest ones.

 

[bagged89s10]

My Prentiss No. 19 (3 1/2" jaws) is considerably lighter than my Parker 974. If you flip the dynamic jaw over, you will see one reason why. The Parker is solid (well, except for the spindle hole) and the Prentiss is hollow like most other vises. I've seen that pointed out in some Parker advertisements, as well. When I need to bang on something, I go straight for the Parker.

That's another reason I am a huge fan of parkers.

 

[Fraggles]

Two recent purchases

1) Swedish Sevo vice with 3" wide jaws for the bench drill



2) Swindens with 5" and 4" wide jaws




Below is the earlier Swindens with 6" and 5" jaws

 

[econotrk]

Nice little Reed for $20. Those have a little pin which has a threaded hole in them with an adjuster screw. I'm sure you can easily make one.

Thanks bagged, that looks like an easily fabricated part. Nice to know what I'm trying to duplicate.

Also thanks for the pic of the split nut, I didn't realize the part behind with the flutes was not a separate piece. What is the reason for the flutes? Thinking maybe that's where the set screw in the side of the dynamic jaw fits?

 

[econotrk]

That's another reason I am a huge fan of parkers.

Of the vises I own, the Parker is far and away my favorite, and the 974 seems to be the perfect size for my work.

My Prentiss No. 19 (3 1/2" jaws) is considerably lighter than my Parker 974. If you flip the dynamic jaw over, you will see one reason why. The Parker is solid (well, except for the spindle hole) and the Prentiss is hollow like most other vises. I've seen that pointed out in some Parker advertisements, as well. When I need to bang on something, I go straight for the Parker. But, I do like the swivel jaw.

Nice pickup, by the way, and I do believe that the ones with "Prentiss, NY" across the of the static are the oldest ones.

Another thing that surprised me was the tabs for mounting the Parker are about 2x the thickness of the Prentiss. Also it's just a beefier, taller, larger vise in every respect.

 

[va.grouseman]

Fraggles, I love your vises.---I wish I could find some of those over here.

 

[BigEarn86]

Would one of you fine gentlemen be able to point me in the direction of a "proper" swivel lock nut and bolt for this model vise. I have attached a link below to what I think might be right. I would love it in stainless if that is an option.







The link:
http://www.wiltonviseparts.net/3-4-hex-swivel-clamps-1-2-13-thread/

 

[JZiggy]

Not the worst Reed 204 one could get for $30. Does this look like a pre-1950's?

 

[econotrk]

Not the worst Reed 204 one could get for $30. Does this look like a pre-1950's?

I'd have been all over it too for $30, nice get. The way I understand, the rounded lead screw knob dates it to pre war. I'm sure someone will be along to correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[JZiggy]

I always like to find out the stories behind vises. Sometimes they are really cool and sometimes kind of sad. When I bought my Paramo it was from the 2nd owner who had used it in his shop for about 40 years. When I asked the guy about this Reed he said "well it was my dad's, don't need it anymore."

 

[CRSINMICH]

As promised, here are the results. THANK-YOU to everyone who added their ideas and suggestions. It turns out that we were all right, except for my idea that that second post was a depth stop. It came out with proper penetrating liquid and long 1/4 inch pin punch. Thanks again!

 

[Outlawmws]

Would one of you fine gentlemen be able to point me in the direction of a "proper" swivel lock nut and bolt for this model vise. I have attached a link below to what I think might be right. I would love it in stainless if that is an option.

[/URL]

The link:
http://www.wiltonviseparts.net/3-4-hex-swivel-clamps-1-2-13-thread/

The Bolt is a Carriage bold, and any hardware store can get you that. SS may be tougher.

The lock nut can be made from an All thread Coupler nut:


the bar can also be made pretty easily:

Swivel nut and handle:

Nut:
For most “Homeowner” exposed screw vices, use a carriage bolt up from the bottom for the “stud” (If needed…).
For the “nut” get an all thread coupler (long nut about 1-1/2” to 2” long) with the same thread. Cross drill it at one end for about a 5/16 or 1/4” clearance hole.

Locking lever:
Get a 5-6” bolt either 5/16 or 1/4” (see above); also get a matching Jam nut. Grind the points off the hex of the bolt (cosmetic cleanup), and string it through the hole drilled in the coupler (see above).

Run the jam nut down and jam it into the bottom of the threads of the bolt. Cut off most of the excess bolt. Peen the remainder of the bolt threads into the nut as flush as you can, and file flat.

The last step is again cosmetic: Grind the points off the now captive Jam nut. You have just made a new locking lever and nut for the swivel base…

 

[bluebolt]

Here's a page from the 1986 catalog showing an 8" "Industrial" Columbian made Craftsman vise.

1986 page 87 (look at item #15)

That 8" Columbian/Craftsman has to be the widest jaw Craftsman machinist vise ever! And I think the only 8" one! I want one!

 

[bluebolt]

Could be, but I've been gooshing them since I was a kid. if they are on you, flick them off (First), but if not, they can't bite you from the top...

Try sliding under your car and looking up and there is a wasp nest with LOTS of wasps 6" from your face! Happened to me last week, I slid back out and got the wasp spray!

 

[CRSINMICH]

Here are some pix of the second vise that I bought at a flea market last Saturday. (The first was the Toledo 00 pipe vise I posted yesterday.) This is a saw sharpening vise. It was user made by someone who had fair woodworking and metal working skills. I'm planning on using it to sharpen my back saws.

 

[Spn1025]

Anyone ever seen one of these? Just noticed it on Craigslist. A little pricey for me though.

Miller's Falls Co. anvil vise $375 date on it says Petent July 29, 1879.
http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/5144727159.html

Edit: 3 1/2" jaws. I wonder if they made these bigger
Edit2: approximately 65 pounds according to this post: http://www.njauction.com/cgi-bin/new/item.pl?item=71354973

 

[FMC1959]

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bagged, sometimes, when the water's just right, you got to roll up your britches, and wade in real gently, right up to your eyebrows.

lmao !

 

[FMC1959]

As promised, here are the results. THANK-YOU to everyone who added their ideas and suggestions. It turns out that we were all right, except for my idea that that second post was a depth stop. It came out with proper penetrating liquid and long 1/4 inch pin punch. Thanks again!

That's a fantastic restore, real beauty

 

[CRSINMICH]

Thanks FMC. It wasn't much of a restoration except that it is fully functioning now.

 

[Fraggles]

Fraggles, I love your vises.---I wish I could find some of those over here.

Thank you. Likewise, there are a some US made vices that I'd like too.
A Wilton Bullet would be at the top of the list.

 

[vintage nut]

Found yet another brilliant reason to have a swivel jaw vise. Been working on rehandling a bunch of axe heads I've got, and getting the old handle stub out is so much easier with a swivel jaw! Finally a way to clamp an axe head securely without marring it!

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[topop101]

Anyone ever seen one of these? Just noticed it on Craigslist. A little pricey for me though.

Miller's Falls Co. anvil vise $375 date on it says Petent July 29, 1879.
http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/tls/5144727159.html

Edit: 3 1/2" jaws. I wonder if they made these bigger
Edit2: approximately 65 pounds according to this post: http://www.njauction.com/cgi-bin/new/item.pl?item=71354973

Not one that wasn't broken... That thing looks great ! 375 is steep but they aren't making them any more so if you want it...

 

[bagged89s10]

Found yet another brilliant reason to have a swivel jaw vise. Been working on rehandling a bunch of axe heads I've got, and getting the old handle stub out is so much easier with a swivel jaw! Finally a way to clamp an axe head securely without marring it!

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Yeah I was thinking that objects like hammer and axe heads or handles would be really easy in a swivel jaw vise. That's one reason I have second thoughts on selling mine or keeping it.

 

[topop101]

Finished up a set of Wilton wood vise's . 2 off set 7" and a 10" all with quick release nuts. Painted red for the customer, that's 5 down and one to go .The baby of the bunch.

Here's all the one's I've down for him so far. Should look great with the checkered tile shop.

 

[bagged89s10]

Finished up a set of Wilton wood vise's . 2 off set 7" and a 10" all with quick release nuts. Painted red for the customer, that's 5 down and one to go .The baby of the bunch.



Here's all the one's I've down for him so far. Should look great with the checkered tile shop.

Nice!

Are those Wilton wood vises all quick release? I have one I picked up and it seems to be but I wasn't sure if it was supposed to be or if it was broken.