10x16 shed with loft

[sublime68charger]

How many studs did you miss putting the siding sheets on?

Or did all your measurements stand true and all the nails found home the first time?

Great work
You'll still have the walnut thunk my yard barn under the tree has shingle roof and it's still cer- plunk in the fall.

 

[hondakilla98]

I didn't take into account the fact that, the 10' walls are inside the 16' walls. So I should've started the first studs on the 10' wall at 12.5" and 16" after that.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'm going to use the router to cut the end sheets. But now that I look at it. I should've just ripped one sheet in half.

I can see now that you will have plenty of room for the soffit vents and for them to work.

 

[hpw]

what brand is the T1-11 that you are using and how much did you pay a sheet?

 

[hondakilla98]

what brand is the T1-11 that you are using and how much did you pay a sheet?

Roseburg forest products Duratemp 8" shallow groove 5/8" 4'x9'. I paid $26 a sheet for 14 sheets, and $23 for 2 slightly damaged sheets.

 

[Zeke]

I didn't take into account the fact that, the 10' walls are inside the 16' walls. So I should've started the first studs on the 10' wall at 12.5" and 16" after that.

Well, you learned from your buddy and the next guy learns from you. It's all good. Nice shed, sir.

 

[hpw]

Roseburg forest products Duratemp 8" shallow groove 5/8" 4'x9'. I paid $26 a sheet for 14 sheets, and $23 for 2 slightly damaged sheets.

thanks, wished I could find it local to me....looks pretty decent, especially the price.

 

[hondakilla98]

thanks, wished I could find it local to me....looks pretty decent, especially the price.

I bought it from a place that sells seconds. I got my 5/8" cdx sheets for $10 each at the same place. Some are better than others, but at the same price as osb it's hard to go wrong.

 

[hpw]

so far looks good, wanted to add that it looks like you ran your sub-floor decking(8') the same direction as your floor joists. When you do your roof decking run the grain(8') perpendicular to the rafters.

 

[Zeke]

so far looks good, wanted to add that it looks like you ran your sub-floor decking(8') the same direction as your floor joists. When you do your roof decking run the grain(8') perpendicular to the rafters.

Did you notice his blocking? It may not pass inspection for a dwelling but I find his orientation acceptable if he didn't buy T & G. The only other problem is plywood can be more springy lengthwise. It would have worked out to 5 sheets exactly either way.

 

[hondakilla98]

I'm definitely not doing that kind of bracing on the roof. I'll be running the sheets the proper direction.

 

[NorthNjWK]

Any updates?? This shed is looking very functional.

 

[hondakilla98]

I haven't had any time to work on it. I've been busy with my new handyman business. My wife picked out some colors and painted them on the shed. Number 2 is the winner.




Here's the shingles I'll be using. Malarkey Northwest XL in natural wood.

 

[hondakilla98]

I cut the wings of each end today.



I also put up my last 9' piece of siding, and finished nailing the sheets that were already up. I picked up silicone and z flashing to finish the ends.

 

[hondakilla98]

Ends are on. Now it's time to start on the roof.

 

[ADSR]

looks good! i like this project!

 

[hondakilla98]

My roof plywood is on, gable and rafter trim boards installed, tar paper is on, and the gable end flashing is installed. It's going to rain the next few days, then I can shingle, and install my ridge vent. I'll get some pics up tomorrow.

I wish I'd waited to cut the siding until after the roof sheeting was on. It's 5/8" lower than the roof, instead of even with it.

I put my 1x6 trim on the rafter ends and gables. That left me with a 1 3/8" wide 5/8" deep gap on the ends of my roof. So I ripped some 5/8" plywood into 1 1/4" strips and nailed them in place. That gave me a solid corner to mount my flashing on.

Plywood on.




Ridge vent slot cut.

 

[hondakilla98]

When I install the windows. Since they're going on the outside of the plywood. Should I use 5/4"x4" trim instead of 1"x4"? I'll be using 1"x4" trim on the corners and around the roll up door.

 

[hondakilla98]

Tar paper, trim, and gable flashing installed.




Window installed, tar paper trimmed back.

 

[NorthNjWK]

That is coming along nicely!

 

[hondakilla98]

I cleaned my cheap windows today. And the free one has stuff in between the glass. It was free, but now I have an opening that's not standard and a crappy looking window. I'll see what replacing the glass will cost vs ordering a window.

 

[hondakilla98]

Double post

 

[awdblazer]

where is your jack and trimmer studs?

 

[hondakilla98]

where is your jack and trimmer studs?

For which opening?

 

[awdblazer]

any of them? i can see forsure the windows

 

[hondakilla98]

Pictures of my framing are on page 1 and 2.

I see what you're asking now. I'm not using any.



I have doubled 2x4 sandwiched with 1/2" plywood above and below the window. With 3 cripple studs above and below them. With the proximity of the next two studs, I wasn't worried about jack and trimmer studs.

Here's the door opening.

 

[30cal]

What are your plans on the loft?

 

[hondakilla98]

What are your plans on the loft?

To start, a 10x8 loft built with 2x6's and 5/8" plywood.



I installed my roll up door today. Now I need to trim the opening and make a sill.

 

[920kip]

First. Thanks for posting your progress. Looks good.

Second. I am not a carpenter, but... I think the jack studs should be installed on the window openings. And above the header on the door opening. It may keep your door from flexing that header.

Third. Keep up the good work. I built a 12 X 16 four years ago, and then ended up selling the house. I wish I still had that shed. May build another. You sure learn a lot making sawdust.

 

[hondakilla98]

First. Thanks for posting your progress. Looks good.

Thanks.

Second. I am not a carpenter, but... I think the jack studs should be installed on the window openings. And above the header on the door opening. It may keep your door from flexing that header.

I probably should've run jack studs on the windows but on a shed I'm not worried. As far as the door header is concerned. What difference would 2 more 2x4's make on top? I already have 4 above it now.



Third. Keep up the good work. I built a 12 X 16 four years ago, and then ended up selling the house. I wish I still had that shed. May build another. You sure learn a lot making sawdust.

I have learned a lot

 

[hondakilla98]

Most of my shingles are on, and I trimmed back the tree. Tomorrow I'll cut the opening in the tar paper for the ridge vent, and install the ridge vent and ridge shingles.

 

[hondakilla98]

Roof is done!






I started trimming out my roll up door.




I have 2"×3" flashing on the bottom, 1"×5" trim around. And I think I'll be running this under the door overlapping the flashing.

http://www.elitegaragefloors.com/xtreme-weather-guard-6-wide-xl-overhead-door-threshold-9-kit/

 

[hondakilla98]

I'm almost ready for paint. But the bottom of the shed is dirty. What should I clean it with before I paint? It's Duratemp t1-11

 

[hondakilla98]

It's been a while since my last update. My loft is finished. I used 2x6's and 7/16" strand board(thinner than I wanted, but that's what was available). The main area is 10' wide and 8' deep. The small section is 8' wide, and 30" deep.

Here are some pics.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I would have run a ledger down that wall instead of those little pieces of 2x4, especially under the large portion of the shelf.

You don't want to store anything very heavy on that 8" shelf. Adding another little piece of 2x4 on the stud directly ABOVE those 8" shelf "brackets"would help a lot.

 

[hondakilla98]

I would have run a ledger down that wall instead of those little pieces of 2x4, especially under the large portion of the shelf.

You don't want to store anything very heavy on that 8" shelf. Adding another little piece of 2x4 on the stud directly ABOVE those 8" shelf "brackets"would help a lot.

How many nails are needed to hold up each 2"x6"? There are 3 16d nails in each 2"x6" and 3 in each 6" section of 2"x4" under the 2"x6". I'm 330lbs and it felt sturdy to me while I was crawling around up there screwing down the sheeting. Obviously I'm not storing engines up there.

The 2"x4" pieces above the 2"x6" seems unnecessary, but I'm sure I have some scraps around.

 

[theoldwizard1]

How many nails are needed to hold up each 2"x6"? There are 3 16d nails in each 2"x6" and 3 in each 6" section of 2"x4" under the 2"x6". I'm 330lbs and it felt sturdy to me while I was crawling around up there screwing down the sheeting. Obviously I'm not storing engines up there.

If you are careful with your load, you will be okay.

The 2"x4" pieces above the 2"x6" seems unnecessary, but I'm sure I have some scraps around.

If you put a 300 lbs load on that short shelf between 2 studs I can guarantee that after a year or so those 2x6 will droop. Nails are not design to hold shearing load and if the weight is high enough, the wood will split. Again, light loads help.

 

[hondakilla98]

If you are careful with your load, you will be okay.


If you put a 300 lbs load on that short shelf between 2 studs I can guarantee that after a year or so those 2x6 will droop. Nails are not design to hold shearing load and if the weight is high enough, the wood will split. Again, light loads help.

We have different expectations. I'm planning on storing holiday decorations and stuff I never use. None of which is really heavy. If I was going to store car parts in it, I could see there possibly being an issue. As it is now, it's heavier built than anything on the market in my area.

 

[hondakilla98]

I got the body of the shed painted. The trim will be bright white, like the windows. Here's a few pix.

 

[wasfast]

You've done a nice job on the shed. The rain is going to make quite a mess splashing the dirt around the building up onto the siding. Gutters help some although with the tree above, you'll be busy keeping them open. You may consider putting a skirt of 1"-3/4" crush rock around the perimeter, a 3" deep.

You don't state what city but looks like the Willamette Valley somewhere. I lived in Oregon for 50 years, 10 different towns. Enjoying the sun down here these days.