let's see your craftsman block grinders

MPOWERD · Sep 17, 2015

Yes it is indeed held by a single screw but it moves around very easily. Shouldn't I add a second screw to hold it in place better, especially how rough the grinder starts up...

exmaxima1 · Sep 17, 2015

MPOWERD said:
Yes it is indeed held by a single screw but it moves around very easily. Shouldn't I add a second screw to hold it in place better, especially how rough the grinder starts up...

I usually stuff a piece of foam tape under the relay to prevent rattles. Also along the edges of the bottom plate where it contacts the base.

bczygan · Sep 17, 2015

In Akron OH $85

https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/tls/5219804539.html

torqueman2002 · Sep 17, 2015

MPOWERD said:
Yes it is indeed held by a single screw but it moves around very easily. Shouldn't I add a second screw to hold it in place better, especially how rough the grinder starts up...

If 'your' screw is loose - add a small amount/lengths of rosin core solder, to the screw's mounting hole, in order to snug up the screw. A larger screw might damage the mounting post.

I have a grinder that the relay's metal mounting tab is bent, keeping it from seating properly. See if your grinder's tab can be tweaked. :thumbup:

softailgarage · Sep 17, 2015

Wow, it's been a little over a year since my last one, starting to get the itch again...

36truck · Sep 17, 2015

torqueman2002

PM sent

808state · Sep 18, 2015

Just picked this up for $40. Did I pay too much? Don't see many up for sale locally in Hawaii and I've always wanted to restore one.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442549019.707735.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442549039.590149.jpg

alpinewhite · Sep 18, 2015

808state said:
Just picked this up for $40. Did I pay too much? Don't see many up for sale locally in Hawaii and I've always wanted to restore one.

Good deal. Aesthetically, I prefer the flat-tops over the round-tops.

bulletpruf · Sep 18, 2015

drivesitfar said:
BP: if your block is a commercial one you can rewire it for 220. I think the wiring diagram is on this thread or maybe over on the the other forum where Doc posts a lot of them. i'd be curious how a rewired block works on 220 if you do have one that you can try.

congrats on the move and hope the new digs likes having some old US tools in it's garage.

Thanks, Drives. I'll probably keep it at 110 since I'll only be here for a few years.

EDIT - it's a commercial block; if it's easy to change to 220, I'll go with that.

Scott

bulletpruf · Sep 18, 2015

jakemac said:
In addition to stepping down to 120v, make sure your transformer is outputting at 60hz as well.

J-Mac -

Ok, I'll have to check my transformers. Have a number of them laying around. Think we bought more than we needed.

Scott

bulletpruf · Sep 18, 2015

torqueman2002 said:
Good to hear from you BP, see my comments in Blue.

BP - let me know if the inside bottom cover does not have the wiring diagram. I think I have another 1/2-HP m-397.19591 I can snap a pic of it's wiring diagram.

Doc -

That's the one!

I'm confused on one thing -- if it's a comm'l block, label states 115/230, is it not ready to go on 220/230 right now? If not, I'm assuming it's a simple modification to go to 220. I'll check for the wiring diagram.

Thanks

Scott

torqueman2002 · Sep 18, 2015

bulletpruf said:
Doc -

That's the one!

I'm confused on one thing -- if it's a comm'l block, label states 115/230, is it not ready to go on 220/230 right now? If not, I'm assuming it's a simple modification to go to 220. I'll check for the wiring diagram.

Thanks

Scott

I'm glad to hear it has 'caught-up' with you in Italy.

It will need the internal wiring re-arranged (see below diagram) to work on 220/230V. Be sure to verify if your power is 60 cycles, as jakemac mentioned.

:thumbup:

x5%20CM%200.50%20HP%20397.19591%20115V%20230V%20CCT%20P1100637.jpg

torqueman2002 · Sep 18, 2015

808state said:
Just picked this up for $40. Did I pay too much? Don't see many up for sale locally in Hawaii and I've always wanted to restore one.

808 - I would think that a 1/2-HP for $40, in Hawaii, qualifies for a
you ****!

torqueman2002 · Sep 18, 2015

Speaking of wiring diagrams, the following are posted to PhotoBucket.

115V
3/4-HP m-397.19350
1/2-HP m-397.19430
1/3-HP m-397.19580
1/3-HP m-397.19581

115V 230V
1-HP m-257.191600
1-HP m-257.192190
1/2-HP m-397.19590
1/2-HP m-397.19591
3/4-HP m-397.19440
3/4-HP m-397.19450
3/4-HP m-397.19470

Link --> http://s786.photobucket.com/user/torqueman2002/slideshow/CM%20009%20Wiring%20Schematics

I'll be happy

to add additional diagrams.

Basically what is needed are high resolution & straight on pictures of the diagram, outside label, and inside wiring (optional).

Please PM me for info. on how to forward pictures for uploading.

Thanks. :thumbup:

808state · Sep 18, 2015

torqueman2002 said:
808 - I would think that a 1/2-HP for $40, in Hawaii, qualifies for a
you ****!

Haha! Thanks man. Couldn't believe how in good condition it is. Missing the quench tray and one of the ears on the shield is cracked but that's about it. Any links on how to fix vibration? Not sure if it's the stones causing it.

McBrownie · Sep 18, 2015

808state said:
Haha! Thanks man. Couldn't believe how in good condition it is. Missing the quench tray and one of the ears on the shield is cracked but that's about it. Any links on how to fix vibration? Not sure if it's the stones causing it.

808,

Try running without the stones. That is an easy way to find out if it is the stones or not.

808state · Sep 18, 2015

Thanks will try this weekend. On the hunt for a quench tray to complete it too.

nine4gmc · Sep 18, 2015

They have replacement quench trays at parts direct.

bagged89s10 · Sep 18, 2015

I setup one of my grinders as a buffer. It's missing the side guards. Polishes nicely with good compounds. Does anyone know where to find threaded buffer shafts? Or should I just keep it the way I have it?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442622356.839542.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442622385.203904.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442622446.785578.jpg

nine4gmc · Sep 18, 2015

I just removed the inner guards and used an oversize large nut to space the buffing wheels out towards the ends of the oem shafts for more clearance.

bagged89s10 · Sep 18, 2015

nine4gmc said:
I just removed the inner guards and used an oversize large nut to space the buffing wheels out towards the ends of the oem shafts for more clearance.

Did you leave the light on yours?

808state · Sep 18, 2015

nine4gmc said:
They have replacement quench trays at parts direct.

Sears parts direct? Got a link? First place I looked but shows discontinued for the specific model. Not sure what the substitute would be.

Sorry little slow today. Took the original part number and searched for it and came up with this substitution for a 397.19430 5336943

bagged89s10 · Sep 18, 2015

808state said:
Sears parts direct? Got a link? First place I looked but shows discontinued for the specific model. Not sure what the substitute would be.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com

nine4gmc · Sep 18, 2015

bagged89s10 said:
Did you leave the light on yours?

The one I use for a buffer did not have a light.

808state said:
Sears parts direct? Got a link? First place I looked but shows discontinued for the specific model. Not sure what the substitute would be.

The link is in this thread somewhere, try doing a thread search for it. :dunno:

I'll take a look myself and see too.

nine4gmc · Sep 18, 2015

Here's the quench tray link: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/cra...780/0009/397/model-39719591/0247/0721000.html

808state · Sep 18, 2015

Figures. Part is $12.20 and shipping is $18. A $30 tray for a $40 block grinder. Lol!

bagged89s10 · Sep 18, 2015

808state said:
Figures. Part is $12.20 and shipping is $18. A $30 tray for a $40 block grinder. Lol!

Better off waiting for a parts grinder that has the quench tray. I should have kept the tray that I sold with my 1/2 HP flat top.

nine4gmc · Sep 18, 2015

I've found about 7 blocks and round tops in the wild but so far, no quench trays... Only a couple had lights but none were restorable due to broken gooseneck or damaged beyond repair reflectors etc. you guys up north are in the hotbed for good condition finds.

Sent from my iThingy using Tapatalk

exmaxima1 · Sep 19, 2015

torqueman2002 said:
I'm glad to hear it has 'caught-up' with you in Italy.

It will need the internal wiring re-arranged (see below diagram) to work on 220/230V. Be sure to verify if your power is 60 cycles, as jakemac mentioned.

Line power frequency for Italy is listed as 50 hz, but I don't see how that would be an issue other than reduced rpm. At 50hz the grinder will just spin at 50/60 x 3450, or about 2875 rpm. Since that is a 7-inch grinder, the effective grinding speed (about 5300 ft/min) will be very close to that of a 6-inch grinder running at 60 hz, which is optimum for aluminum oxide wheels on carbon and high-speed steels.

nine4gmc · Sep 19, 2015

Insert "I was told there would be no math" meme here! :lol:

Sent from my iThingy using Tapatalk

Scimonetti · Sep 19, 2015

After looking forever I finally found one!

Pretty dusty but in good shape and only missing a shield. The tag is really weird though, only contains model, serial # and Sears.

What does that mean? Isn't that info necessary for sale?

Anyway, I got it and the cabinet for $15, It runs smooth and I'll bolt it to the cabinet and store my grinding/buffing wheels and organize sandpaper.

jakemac · Sep 19, 2015

It means that the grinder spent too much time in the sun. The label has bleached out. The ink for the s/n is different than the ink on the label so it lasts longer.

Great score on a hard to find 3/4hp model. :drool:

harleybuilder · Sep 19, 2015

Good find. . The tag is faded out, that's why you're only seeing minimal information on it. I think Torqueman has a file to get a new tag printed.

torqueman2002 · Sep 19, 2015

Scimonetti said:
After looking forever I finally found one!

Pretty dusty but in good shape and only missing a shield. The tag is really weird though, only contains model, serial # and Sears.

What does that mean? Isn't that info necessary for sale?

Anyway, I got it and the cabinet for $15, It runs smooth and I'll bolt it to the cabinet and store my grinding/buffing wheels and organize sandpaper.

Holy molly! Yet another you ****!

Check my sig line for a link to a file to print a replacement label.
Nice score.

:thumbup:

jakemac · Sep 19, 2015

If you use a magnifying glass and different flashlights (incandescent, fluorescent, LED) at various angles. you may be able to just make out some of the original print.

Oh, and for only $10 - View media item 48651

drivesitfar · Sep 19, 2015

SC: nice find and the little cabinet is probably an even better find than the 3/4 block. right place right time and your lucky day. congrats and couldn't have found a better home. cheers

nine4gmc · Sep 19, 2015

Poor thing had to wait a year for a 3/4hp? :lol_hitti

torqueman2002 · Sep 19, 2015

jakemac said:
If you use a magnifying glass and different flashlights (incandescent, fluorescent, LED) at various angles. you may be able to just make out some of the original print.

Oh, and for only $10 - View media item 48651

Jake - I like the YS Thumbs Up! Where did you get it?

How can it be added to the forums 'Smilies'?

torqueman2002 · Sep 19, 2015

nine4gmc said:
Poor thing had to wait a year for a 3/4hp?

Ya, poor guy, eh?

torqueman2002 · Sep 19, 2015

exmaxima1 said:
Line power frequency for Italy is listed as 50 hz, but I don't see how that would be an issue other than reduced rpm. At 50hz the grinder will just spin at 50/60 x 3450, or about 2875 rpm. Since that is a 7-inch grinder, the effective grinding speed (about 5300 ft/min) will be very close to that of a 6-inch grinder running at 60 hz, which is optimum for aluminum oxide wheels on carbon and high-speed steels.

Maxima - you, of course, are correct.

"It will run 5/6th slower and might tend to run a bit hotter, but the 220V setup will reduce the current and likely offset that heating.

He will need to either use a plug-socket adaptor or put a Euro Style plug on the cord. I'd suggest the plug, so that there is no confusion when he returns the grinder to the US.' - Charlei, OWWM

Thanks Maxima and Charlie!
:thumbup:

Update.
"It is better to operate a 50 Hertz motor on 60 Hertz, then the reverse, but if it's not going to see heavy use it may be OK, and as said by others use a attachment plug to match the local style, Euro cords are brown, blue, and yellow w/ a green stripe,
brown is hot,
blue is neutral,
yellow/green is grounding/ earth." - R Meyers, OWWM

let's see your craftsman block grinders

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member