Brian_WK
Well-known member
What do you prefer on 1 inch plus Copper water lines and why? Propress or Solder?
Thanks
Brian
Thanks
Brian
Propress or Solder fittings?
- Thread starter Brian_WK
- Start date
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
I prefer staybrite 8 solder myself,Ive used it on everything from residential/commercial plumbing residential/commercial hvac r22 and 410a systems for years without any issues.
I always thought pro press sounded like a machine at golds gym!
Pro press fittings look like **** and they rattle and shake like theyre going to explode when you turn the water on from the times Ive seen them installed.
Get yourself a good turbo torch(not the box store variety) and some mapp gas ,youll have no problems soldering copper. I can silver solder 3" copper with mine .
I always thought pro press sounded like a machine at golds gym!
Pro press fittings look like **** and they rattle and shake like theyre going to explode when you turn the water on from the times Ive seen them installed.
Get yourself a good turbo torch(not the box store variety) and some mapp gas ,youll have no problems soldering copper. I can silver solder 3" copper with mine .
SALIV8
Well-known member
If it is a dry connection I would sweat the fittings on. However, if you cant keep it dry enough, I like to use ProPress and have had awesome results (on 2" copper lines that Ive made repairs on) there was no wiggle ever on my repairs but the tool to press the fittings isnt always easy to get around the repair, based on the clearances.
Pro press is awesome for wet repairs of copper. The only thing I do not like about propress is the fact the fittings use 2 rubber orings to create the seal. I cant help but figure these seals will degrade over time..
Pro press is awesome for wet repairs of copper. The only thing I do not like about propress is the fact the fittings use 2 rubber orings to create the seal. I cant help but figure these seals will degrade over time..
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
Brian -
U didn't spec details. How many runs. How may connections. Wet. Dry.
Granted even in a dry application, with alot of fittings, Propress will save you time.
Fittings are $$$ so there is a sliding scale depending on the job....
Wet, Propress is a no brainer.
The answer really boils down to the application
U didn't spec details. How many runs. How may connections. Wet. Dry.
Granted even in a dry application, with alot of fittings, Propress will save you time.
Fittings are $$$ so there is a sliding scale depending on the job....
Wet, Propress is a no brainer.
The answer really boils down to the application
pl_silverado
Well-known member
I prefer staybrite 8 solder myself,Ive used it on everything from residential/commercial plumbing residential/commercial hvac r22 and 410a systems for years without any issues.
I always thought pro press sounded like a machine at golds gym!
Pro press fittings look like **** and they rattle and shake like theyre going to explode when you turn the water on from the times Ive seen them installed.
Get yourself a good turbo torch(not the box store variety) and some mapp gas ,youll have no problems soldering copper. I can silver solder 3" copper with mine .
I second all of this, but staybrite is probably overkill for most residential diy guys. Silver bearing would suffice at roughly half the price.
That being said, I'm still a fan of pro press especially when you need to fix a leak or replace a valve with minimal downtime. We often run into cases at work where we don't have time to drain the whole building to fix an issue or don't feel like going thru the process of getting a hot work permit every time we need to sweat a valve or fitting.
I'm actually about to purchase the Milwaukee m12 press for my side work to save time on service calls.
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gregtwojeeps
Well-known member
I was always skeptical of "press on or crimp style" copper fittings until at work one day I had a 2 in. copper water line being tapped on to by a plumber, to add some water heaters. The two inch line had old ball valves that would not seal off the water drips in order for solder to be used. I could not shut off the entire facilities water just for this project. ....
When I asked the plumber was he going to freeze the line so he could solder, he said "nope". Instead, he propressed two inch fittings on that line. When I asked him was he sure enough about the integrity of the propress fittings to use them say...in a hospital ??. He said,"Sure, I used them all the time in xxxx Hospital". Turns out it is the same hospital I used to work in years ago....
I was impressed at how good the 2 in. porpress fittings held. They are great for emergency cases or where there is leaky shutoff valve piping. JMO
When I asked the plumber was he going to freeze the line so he could solder, he said "nope". Instead, he propressed two inch fittings on that line. When I asked him was he sure enough about the integrity of the propress fittings to use them say...in a hospital ??. He said,"Sure, I used them all the time in xxxx Hospital". Turns out it is the same hospital I used to work in years ago....
I was impressed at how good the 2 in. porpress fittings held. They are great for emergency cases or where there is leaky shutoff valve piping. JMO
OK since their hasn't been a definitive one way or another I'll include some back story. Done HVAC/R for years honestly the only times I solder is when I am attaching a wire to a board . I am a firm believer solder is the worst thing to ever have touched copper pipes. If I'm plumbing it's pex unless I'm fixing fixing a solder joint leak... HVAC its sil-phos.
Anyways a contractor is replacing two old water heaters with one high efficiency. Lots of junk piping to be replaced lots of 2" fittings around 80 connections in all. The hot water is down they were allowed 3 work days with the hot water off. They were 80% done today when the job was inspected they were informed that they were not allowed to use pro press fittings as stated in the scope of work. This is in a federal building that follow a set of guidelines called the P100 (Google it) pro press fittings had been allowed in this guideline up until March 2015 for domestic water lines they are still allowed on hydronic heat lines.
So anyways the contractor now has to remove all of the fittings and replace with solder type fittings. Needless to say they are pissed. Even if it is their own fault for not reading the scope of work.
So why is propress fittings deemed inferior for domestic water use. When I think they are a superior to solder?
Brian
Anyways a contractor is replacing two old water heaters with one high efficiency. Lots of junk piping to be replaced lots of 2" fittings around 80 connections in all. The hot water is down they were allowed 3 work days with the hot water off. They were 80% done today when the job was inspected they were informed that they were not allowed to use pro press fittings as stated in the scope of work. This is in a federal building that follow a set of guidelines called the P100 (Google it) pro press fittings had been allowed in this guideline up until March 2015 for domestic water lines they are still allowed on hydronic heat lines.
So anyways the contractor now has to remove all of the fittings and replace with solder type fittings. Needless to say they are pissed. Even if it is their own fault for not reading the scope of work.
So why is propress fittings deemed inferior for domestic water use. When I think they are a superior to solder?
Brian
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
All I can say is Oh Mai Brian. 80 2" PP fittings down the drain....
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
So why did you ask if you don't want to hear the answers?
People have been soldering copper in one form or another since back when Noah was an apprentice boat builder.
" solder is the worst thing to ever have touched copper pipes"
"So why is propress fittings deemed inferior for domestic water use. When I think they are a superior to solder?"
You can't be serious...they may be easy, fast, save time and energy, but they do not seal better, nor last longer, or are cheaper than soldered fittings. they have a 50 year warranty. so in 50 yrs. you tearing them out and replacing them all?
no way is an o-ring compression system better than the chemical bond of solder...they may be "good enough", but I don't see how you can seriously believe they are superior.
"So why is propress fittings deemed inferior for domestic water use. When I think they are a superior to solder?"
You can't be serious...they may be easy, fast, save time and energy, but they do not seal better, nor last longer, or are cheaper than soldered fittings. they have a 50 year warranty. so in 50 yrs. you tearing them out and replacing them all?
no way is an o-ring compression system better than the chemical bond of solder...they may be "good enough", but I don't see how you can seriously believe they are superior.
indyokie
Well-known member
+ The 50 year warranty, for ProPress Viega product ( copies ) the 50 year copper pipe warranty. - it's not at all saying the fitting wears out at 50 years.
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
Theres plenty of copper pipe fittings that were sweated on 50 plus years ago that are still doing there job.
I rate pro press fittings right up there with those nasty fittings the box stores sell with solder already in them and greenfield/flex and trac pipe/csst and pex/shark bites.
There made for people who are either to cheap or just don't know how to use the good stuff,or all they care about is production numbers.
First off im not a plumber.
I think it is the worst thing to have touched copper due to my HVAC/R background. I braze everything HVAC/R related. Solder leaves alot to be desired flux patches, Contamination, human error.
The propress mechanical clamp leaves no room for human error if the machine clamps the seal is made. If it leaks there is something wrong with the oring and it leaks right then. Not in 2 weeks when the flux finally dissolves.
Price isn't a issue here. As that is not a factor when they come up with these guidelines.
50 year warranty? So your saying your car with 100,000 mile warranty will break down at 100,001 miles and be completely trashed and must be replaced?
If both are done correctly and a good seal is made and neither leak I cannot see the benefit of the solder connection being so much better. If you can drive the nail with a 1 pound hammer why used the 20 pound sledge.
I can't say that solder is better than Propress or vise versa. But I can say that there is no way that a mechanical fitting is so much more prone to failure then a solder that it deems it unusable. This could change as the pro-press fittings have more extensive use and time tested.
All I was hoping to hear was options on why you prefer one over the other. More so if you have actually used both or had either fail on multiple occasions.
Brian
Theres plenty of copper pipe fittings that were sweated on 50 plus years ago that are still doing there job.
I rate pro press fittings right up there with those nasty fittings the box stores sell with solder already in them and greenfield/flex and trac pipe/csst and pex/shark bites.
There made for people who are either to cheap or just don't know how to use the good stuff,or all they care about is production numbers.
So do you also believe PVC should not be used in DWV or do you think cast pipe with lead and oakum is better or clay tile for sewer mains.
Materials/techniques change not only because of price or skill level to install. But because sometimes its a better product and just natural evolution.
I do believe we have devolved in some areas though. Flex duct in long lengths and duct board should be illegal.
Brian
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
First off im not a plumber.
I think it is the worst thing to have touched copper due to my HVAC/R background. I braze everything HVAC/R related. Solder leaves alot to be desired flux patches, Contamination, human error.
The propress mechanical clamp leaves no room for human error if the machine clamps the seal is made. If it leaks there is something wrong with the oring and it leaks right then. Not in 2 weeks when the flux finally dissolves.
Price isn't a issue here. As that is not a factor when they come up with these guidelines.
50 year warranty? So your saying your car with 100,000 mile warranty will break down at 100,001 miles and be completely trashed and must be replaced?
If both are done correctly and a good seal is made and neither leak I cannot see the benefit of the solder connection being so much better. If you can drive the nail with a 1 pound hammer why used the 20 pound sledge.
I can't say that solder is better than Propress or vise versa. But I can say that there is no way that a mechanical fitting is so much more prone to failure then a solder that it deems it unusable. This could change as the pro-press fittings have more extensive use and time tested.
All I was hoping to hear was options on why you prefer one over the other. More so if you have actually used both or had either fail on multiple occasions.
Brian
If it takes 2 weeks for a leak to show up in an ac lineset after you install it youre not pressurizing it with nitrogen to check the system before hand.
Ive never seen water being held inside a pipe/fitting by flux,that must be some really good flux you use.
Ive seen plenty of propress fittings leak on big commercial/hospital jobs.
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
I love cast iron pipe for commercial jobs since we cant use pvc for commercial work in Omaha.
I used to do tons of lead and oakum joints,most new construction uses no hub couplings anymore though.
I still use lead/oakum on some repairs though.
For residential work pvc works great and wont rot out from idiots dumping buckets of drain o down their sinks everytime they get a hair clog.
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
I usually stay out of these DIY conversations but every pro I know- including me- solders.
Some negatives right off the bat. Fittings are pricey & so is the tool for pro use. Especially big stuff. Besides cost, the biggest negative is the size of the tool itself. Many times, you will never get the tool in there to do the work. Yea- some say to pre-fab 1st but try using that thing in a tight 2x4 wall or just above a slab on looped soft copper. Good luck there. At some point- you have to make a tie in somewhere.
And for the comments hyping this for pipes w/ water in them- a real plumber will be able to blow out the lines & sweat the pipe & fittings. I'm talking experience- not a loaf of bread! I've owned a plumbing & HVAC business for over 40 years & have NEVER found a pipe I couldn't sweat. EVER.
There are tools for this BTW- not bread! Got water running out of pipe? Cut copper pipe, install a full port gate or ball valve- insert this tool through open end of valve- give the handle on end a 1/4 turn & no water! Sweat valve, pull tool & close valve. That's how a pro does it' I have these up to 3" & have used in many places- include high rise tenant improvements.
Some negatives right off the bat. Fittings are pricey & so is the tool for pro use. Especially big stuff. Besides cost, the biggest negative is the size of the tool itself. Many times, you will never get the tool in there to do the work. Yea- some say to pre-fab 1st but try using that thing in a tight 2x4 wall or just above a slab on looped soft copper. Good luck there. At some point- you have to make a tie in somewhere.
And for the comments hyping this for pipes w/ water in them- a real plumber will be able to blow out the lines & sweat the pipe & fittings. I'm talking experience- not a loaf of bread! I've owned a plumbing & HVAC business for over 40 years & have NEVER found a pipe I couldn't sweat. EVER.
There are tools for this BTW- not bread! Got water running out of pipe? Cut copper pipe, install a full port gate or ball valve- insert this tool through open end of valve- give the handle on end a 1/4 turn & no water! Sweat valve, pull tool & close valve. That's how a pro does it' I have these up to 3" & have used in many places- include high rise tenant improvements.
Ive never seen water being held inside a pipe/fitting by flux,that must be some really good flux you use.
Ive seen plenty of propress fittings leak on big commercial/hospital jobs.
I've seen plenty of fittings that were fluxed and never soldered hold water including one that passed a 48 hr pressure test at 100# of air and held water for a couple of weeks before flooding a brand new kitchen and causing about 50k in damage.
I've done boilers that were leak free for days with cold water then when fired up a leak shows up after the flux flows out.
I think the propress stuff is like any other new(er) product, if used when appropriate it is fine, the problem is when someone wants to use only one product and not be open to others.
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
I usually stay out of these DIY conversations but every pro I know- including me- solders.
Some negatives right off the bat. Fittings are pricey & so is the tool for pro use. Especially big stuff. Besides cost, the biggest negative is the size of the tool itself. Many times, you will never get the tool in there to do the work. Yea- some say to pre-fab 1st but try using that thing in a tight 2x4 wall or just above a slab on looped soft copper. Good luck there. At some point- you have to make a tie in somewhere.
And for the comments hyping this for pipes w/ water in them- a real plumber will be able to blow out the lines & sweat the pipe & fittings. I'm talking experience- not a loaf of bread! I've owned a plumbing & HVAC business for over 40 years & have NEVER found a pipe I couldn't sweat. EVER.
There are tools for this BTW- not bread! Got water running out of pipe? Cut copper pipe, install a full port gate or ball valve- insert this tool through open end of valve- give the handle on end a 1/4 turn & no water! Sweat valve, pull tool & close valve. That's how a pro does it' I have these up to 3" & have used in many places- include high rise tenant improvements.
Can you show me how to get a jet sweat around a corner inside of 90? Sometimes a piece of bread does wonders.
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
You guys either have really good flux or piss poor water pressure.
Ive never seen a copper fitting that would hold 100 lbs of air pressure for 48 minutes let alone 48 hrs without being soldered,Can you tell me where you buy these wonder fittings at?
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
I just went and looked in my van,oatey 5 in the red bucket. Atleast we agree on that.
Stay brite 8 solder and nibco fittings .
Stay brite 8 solder and nibco fittings .
pl_silverado
Well-known member
I've had good luck with utility wonder flux. Anyone else use it?
gregtwojeeps
Well-known member
If it takes 2 weeks for a leak to show up in an ac lineset after you install it youre not pressurizing it with nitrogen to check the system before hand.
Ive never seen water being held inside a pipe/fitting by flux,that must be some really good flux you use.
Ive seen plenty of propress fittings leak on big commercial/hospital jobs.
And sweat jobs are only as good as the person performing them...
At work, where it was renovated ten years ago, within five years I had six 2 in. copper sweated fittings leaking on some 2 inch copper domestic water lines/closed loop heat pump water lines.... all that were installed by commercial mechanical contractors. They were text book perfect sweat jobs too, no acid residue left on the pipe/fittings, perfect thin line of solder around the fitting, no sloppy solder wiping job. But after I put a bucket under the leaks after the suspended ceiling tiles were soaked and had fell...it was easy to see why the plumber failed at his sweating jobs.
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zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
Ill put my money on a good plumber with a torch any day. Id rather see a joint that was wiped off over dog nuts hanging off the bottem of a fitting any day.
The thin line of solder doesn't always mean the fitting took solder all the way down in side,if somebody didn't clean the copper and fittings before soldering.
Not everybody on a job site with a torch in his hands should be considered a plumber,Some of the biggest idiots whove worked for me over the years were licensed journeyman idiots.
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
Never heard of it,who sells it?
Normally,2" shouldn't require it, but tinning the pipe and fitting makes large OD joints much easier to make.
I usually stay out of these DIY conversations but every pro I know- including me- solders.
Some negatives right off the bat. Fittings are pricey & so is the tool for pro use. Especially big stuff. Besides cost, the biggest negative is the size of the tool itself. Many times, you will never get the tool in there to do the work. Yea- some say to pre-fab 1st but try using that thing in a tight 2x4 wall or just above a slab on looped soft copper. Good luck there. At some point- you have to make a tie in somewhere.
And for the comments hyping this for pipes w/ water in them- a real plumber will be able to blow out the lines & sweat the pipe & fittings. I'm talking experience- not a loaf of bread! I've owned a plumbing & HVAC business for over 40 years & have NEVER found a pipe I couldn't sweat. EVER.
There are tools for this BTW- not bread! Got water running out of pipe? Cut copper pipe, install a full port gate or ball valve- insert this tool through open end of valve- give the handle on end a 1/4 turn & no water! Sweat valve, pull tool & close valve. That's how a pro does it' I have these up to 3" & have used in many places- include high rise tenant improvements.
This was a large professional plumbing company and of the 3 plumbers there doing the install 2 were journeymen.
I had no part in it and no say. They already had all the tooling to do propress. But that is besides the point. As they were the low bid in a Federal Building. They will have to tear it all out and replace it with solder fittings. It had no leaks no issues it has been installed for 3 days. But due to the propress not being allowed it has to be changed if they want to get paid.
Brian
gregtwojeeps
Well-known member
Ill put my money on a good plumber with a torch any day. Id rather see a joint that was wiped off over dog nuts hanging off the bottem of a fitting any day.
The thin line of solder doesn't always mean the fitting took solder all the way down in side,if somebody didn't clean the copper and fittings before soldering.
Not everybody on a job site with a torch in his hands should be considered a plumber,Some of the biggest idiots whove worked for me over the years were licensed journeyman idiots.
I agree. I am not a plumber either but when I worked in hospital maintenance I had learned to do about anything as I was the only guy with hands on + a paper pusher boss... I started out sweating 1/2 in. to one inch copper easily. But I never did do a two inch copper job until ...
When I started working as the only maintenance guy where I worked the passed 15 years, my first plumbing task was installing a two in. back flow prevention valve on the pool's two inch main water copper fill line ...plus I put in the line ...two bypass-able one inch flow meters....
I got all the 2 in. copper piping sweated, complete with many 2 in. ells, couplings, reducers etc. I did them all with a small Mapp torch but it worked my *** in keeping the fittings heated evenly and solder to draw in. My joints had solder drool marks that got wiped away and they looked like someone had pissed the solder in to them. I filled them so tight with solder they puked it back out.
I did not want any do overs, as pool lovers get pissy when their pool gets closed for maintenance issues. But by damn, that was 15 years ago.... and as of four months ago when I retired from there...not one drip from any of my 2 in. pipe joints.
BD1
Well-known member
As for propress, it takes a little more thinking to use it. You can't fit the gun in all places and once joint is pressed it's pretty hard to reposition. Sweating, all you gotta do is heat and rotate. Propress is fast but fittings cost more and there are guidelines for how close fitting to fitting goes, again, some thinking. You need to be alert when pressing too so the piping stays plumb and level. Some guys really do a ugly looking job too.
As for the scope of work goes, IF additional work is to be done on the new installed piping the propress will almost need to be scrapped. If soldered, you can cut, or heat the existing joints and reuse everything that is there.It's tough to try to redo the piping when you have back to back fittings. If pipe insulation is required, it will cost more to do then if it was soldered fittings. Each process has it pros and cons. You need to be a smart installer either way. I did many jobs with 3'' and 4'' propress and it is awesome. You just need to know when to go to solder.
As for the scope of work goes, IF additional work is to be done on the new installed piping the propress will almost need to be scrapped. If soldered, you can cut, or heat the existing joints and reuse everything that is there.It's tough to try to redo the piping when you have back to back fittings. If pipe insulation is required, it will cost more to do then if it was soldered fittings. Each process has it pros and cons. You need to be a smart installer either way. I did many jobs with 3'' and 4'' propress and it is awesome. You just need to know when to go to solder.
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
I agree. I am not a plumber either but when I worked in hospital maintenance I had learned to do about anything as I was the only guy with hands on + a paper pusher boss... I started out sweating 1/2 in. to one inch copper easily. But I never did do a two inch copper job until ...
When I started working as the only maintenance guy where I worked the passed 15 years, my first plumbing task was installing a two in. back flow prevention valve on the pool's two inch main water copper fill line ...plus I put in the line ...two bypass-able one inch flow meters....
I got all the 2 in. copper piping sweated, complete with many 2 in. ells, couplings, reducers etc. I did them all with a small Mapp torch but it worked my *** in keeping the fittings heated evenly and solder to draw in. My joints had solder drool marks that got wiped away and they looked like someone had pissed the solder in to them. I filled them so tight with solder they puked it back out.
But by damn, that was 15 years ago.... and as of four months ago when I retired from there...not one drip from any of my 2 in. pipe joints.
pl_silverado
Well-known member
Plumbing supply houses. I haven't seen it at lowes or depot.
http://www.utilitychemicals.com/products-solderfluxes.php
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
I don't know why, but all DIY plumbers should know that you CAN use compression fittings on "hard" copper pipe ! Yes, the fittings are more expensive, but done right (cleaned, deburred, fully inserted) it is as good as any other method. If you are paranoid, add a couple of wraps of teflon tape on the ferrule and on the threads.
One of the coolest fittings is a compression repair coupling for a split 1/2" or 3/4" pipe. Buy a coupling longer than the split. Cut the split out. Slide the nut and ferrule on one of the open ends. The coupling is one size up so that it will slide over the existing pipe. Now slide the nut, ferrule and couping back over the other open end. Tighten.
I had a buddy that literally spent hours trying to sweat in a coupling on a line that kept dripping (he never heard of the white bread trick either) ! He would have been done (except for clean up) in 15 minutes with this !!
One of the coolest fittings is a compression repair coupling for a split 1/2" or 3/4" pipe. Buy a coupling longer than the split. Cut the split out. Slide the nut and ferrule on one of the open ends. The coupling is one size up so that it will slide over the existing pipe. Now slide the nut, ferrule and couping back over the other open end. Tighten.
I had a buddy that literally spent hours trying to sweat in a coupling on a line that kept dripping (he never heard of the white bread trick either) ! He would have been done (except for clean up) in 15 minutes with this !!
This could be the best reason. Especially if a ball valve leaks and needs changing out. I don't know if propress can be unpressed i would think not as it causes the pipe to hexagon right at the fitting on the larger pipe. Or if you needed to switch an elbow to a "T" etc. I think this would be the biggest pro for solder. Not that the bond or seal maybe better.
And since this is garage journal.
Ill upload a picture of the piping that will be getting torn out on Monday and be getting redone.
Thanks for your input guys!
Brian
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Marcm157
Well-known member
I'm typically an old school guy and hate change so whenever I did a plumbing project it was always solder. I just replaced my boiler at home and decided to re-plumb the entire system. I spoke to a plumber friend who suggested I use Propress. He loaned me the tool and after some trial and error, (It definitely took some getting used to) I have to say I am a fan. The small piece of Pex feeds a third zone that heated a small home office that was added by the previous owner of the house. I eliminated that zone and just combined it with an existing one.
I did have to do some soldering and pre-assembly to make this work. I won't rule out solder in the future but Propress has opened my mind to some new methods...
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I did have to do some soldering and pre-assembly to make this work. I won't rule out solder in the future but Propress has opened my mind to some new methods...
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BD1
Well-known member
''Ill upload a picture of the piping that will be getting torn out on Monday and be getting redone.''
It looks like they did not provide unions or flanges at new tank. Drains on piping should have been a typical install.
Basic install where they tried to cut corners and save a few bucks. Sure the pump has flanges, but when you disassemble flanges you're gonna get water all over.
It's these little things that PROFESSIONALS do that the cheap guys do not. They did do a nice job with the unistrut and clamps.
It looks like they did not provide unions or flanges at new tank. Drains on piping should have been a typical install.
Basic install where they tried to cut corners and save a few bucks. Sure the pump has flanges, but when you disassemble flanges you're gonna get water all over.
It's these little things that PROFESSIONALS do that the cheap guys do not. They did do a nice job with the unistrut and clamps.
dutchgray
Well-known member
I have seen unsoldered fittings hold for a couple weeks too. I have seen far more push fit connections leak or blow apart. Never seen propress here.
With regards to wastes pvc all the way, although there is plenty cast still in use, as well as a lot of lead sink and bath wastes.
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
Which plumbing supply house? I buy a lot of stuff from ferguson and briggs,I don't remember seeing it.