installing corrugated tin on walls and ceilings

[jbolg]

I am looking for help with a few questions and seems to me you guys here are the ones to ask. I have been looking through alot of other threads and sites everywhere possible on the internet with no solid answer to my questions.

Im on the interior of my shed 14x20 space. my questions are:

1. since i prefer not to mess with drywall i am doing corrugated tin all the way around the inside and need to know if i can get away with just using 1x4 nailers across the walls and ceiling to screw the tin to. or maybe even just to the studs with no backing at all between the tin and insulation. (trying to save money as well) *side note walls are 16"oc

2.how about using the corrugated furring strips?

3.should i start with the walls or ceiling first?

4.place baseboards first then tin on top or tin first then baseboards after?

I have seen the answer to #4 here before but it was an old thread so figured id ask it again.

Thanks for any and all help on the matter!!!

 

[Rookie2]

panels are usually 36" wide ,so you would need furring strips. I set mine up on top of a baseboard thinking a jack would be rolling into it all the time.

 

[bullnerd]

Ceiling.

I bought a metal trim piece that goes on the floor before the walls, made by the tin company. But either way, metal on top of trim or you'll end up with a huge gap.

Check the end of my build thread, link in my sig, Hemiram gave me some tips that might help you too.

 

[nadogail]

I suggest you consider those molded rubber pieces that seal the gaps under the ends of the panels to stop the critters from hiding in and under the the gap between the panel and the wall.

 

[chase237]

You may not need the specialized furring strips. I say may not because the new stuff is really thin and flimsy. I took some 7/16 OSB and cut it into strips to screw the tin to. Base trim on bottom and topped with brick molding. I didn't go all the way to the ceiling like you are talking about.
See link in sigline for pics.

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[SVTchris]

Thanks chase237, the pics in your sig line show exactly what I need to do for installing tin panels in my garage under construction. I just wish I could have found weathered tin like you did.

 

[jbolg]

Thats great thanks for the info and links, they helped alot.

great looking garage bullnerd, do you have any pics of the walls finished and possibly close up of where the walls meet the ceiling?

Chase237 i love the look of your garage as well GREAT JOB!!

Should i add any vapor/moisture barrier of any sort between the tin and the insulation?

and i see that you started with the ceiling bullnerd so thats what ill do too.

Ill try to get pics up as soon as possible today or tomorrow.

 

[bullnerd]

"great looking garage bullnerd, do you have any pics of the walls finished and possibly close up of where the walls meet the ceiling?"

Thanks. My walls are not done yet. I only work on it as cash permits. And that's not too often! I am using J channel at the ceiling, then the walls fit up inside the J channel. I added a strip of white sheet metal at the ceiling ends to fill in the corrugated section, so you cant see the wood.

Should be pics in my build thread somewhere. If not, Ill take some. Hemi, has a lot of tips in my thread also.

I added a vapor barrier to walls and ceiling and taped all the seems.

 

[jbolg]

Thanks bullnerd any extra pixs would be great. Thanks again for the help.

I'm gonna go look through hemi's build now too!

 

[yaidunno]

I'm 2/3's done with my ceiling. My trusses are 8' OC (pole construction) and i framed up a ceiling structure that has boards to screw into every 32". If your running it on your walls, and going vertical with it, you will need some sort of strips going horizontal. I'm using 1.5" screws on the ceiling and will be using the same on the corrugated tin wains coat. Your sheets should have 2-4" overlap.



I would highly suggest avoiding the big box stores for the material. The run that i got from Menards, as well as the stuff i found in Lowes did not meet up correctly at the seam. On top of that, it comes in 33% thinner than the material specification which makes for a very flimsy and cheap product. I ended up returning the order, and getting it through a company that actually rolls it in house out of quality material made in the US. Corrugated Metals Inc.

The photo below shows the issue with where the sheets meet. The area in green is hand bent to the correct angle, and the area in red is how it will come when you get it from the box stores.

 

[egdede]

While thin material is problematic, the angle of the sheets is no big deal. See what happens if when you switch sheets (put the bottom one on top). When you fasten them the top sheet will compress the bottom one

 

[ford33]

Metal walls and ceiling will reflect sound easily making the shop noisy. You will have little sound attenuation and it may be uncomfortable to work in such a shop.

 

[yaidunno]

While thin material is problematic, the angle of the sheets is no big deal. See what happens if when you switch sheets (put the bottom one on top). When you fasten them the top sheet will compress the bottom one

Yep, I did try this, and it did preload the bent edge to provide a seam that looked closed. The problem is that its installed incorrectly that way. Capillary action would gladly pull water behind the sheets if installed like that. I realize that my application was indoors, but the fact of the mater is that they were made to very, very poor standards. The new sheeting, as well as the 50+ year old corrugated tin I took off the previous barn both were/are installed correctly and the seams function as intended.

For some, this might not be a deal breaker. For me, it was. I'm simply sharing my findings so that others don't go through the the same delays that I faced.

 

[jbolg]

Great info guys, much appreciated.
yaidunno-thanks for the pics and info, your shop ceiling is looking real nice! What do you plan to do at the wall and ceiling intersection? ive seen some just running the tin together and covering with a wood trim. Or like bullnerd suggested with j channel at the ceiling edge which the tin on the wall can slide into?
Any thoughts?

Hey Ford33 thanks for commenting too, as for the walls and noise I hope after adding some shelves and other things to the walls it will help some??

 

[TonkaJoe]

I went straight over drywall in my shop.. I had a few different issues to work around so I had to go between 1x2's and 1x4's.. I also didn't go with full tin walls as I wanted to break up the design a bit, so I did the walls first and the ceiling last. I'll have better pictures in a week or so when I'm finished up... been busy with work!.

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[xtremek]

Thanks for posting this jbolg. I started stripping the roof off of an old corn crib to use as my ceiling. The vapor barrier question is a good one. I plan on screwing my tin straight into the bottom of the trusses, which are 2' OC. Not too worried about where it meets the wall, yet. That'll probably come back to bite me, but I don't have the money for drywall on the upper half (using reclaimed barn siding for the bottom 4' of the walls). Anyway, thanks for posting this.

 

[Jackfre]

I did sheets of 22 ga corrugated core ten metal on the exterior of my 30x34 shop. It looks great...to me anyway I think the net coverage was about 33" per sheet. It was kind of a pitn to line things up as apparently the material wasn't indeed in the rollers square with the world and I had the same issues as previously noted. You can work around them but, a pain as noted.

I too would look for a source of a heavier gauge material on the walls. A lot of the corrugated I looked at was like tin foil. It will dent easily if to thin. The 22 ga material is solid.

 

[ilovevocs]

Just my $.02 as it relates to installing these panels in the absence of drywall. Drywall does perform as an air barrier and using the panel in its absence will eliminate the air barrier from the building envelope. Issues could range from a lack of thermal efficiency to condensation / mold issues.

I'm sure 50 people will chime in and say they have never had an issue. Their are allot of variables to consider. Not saying anyone is doing anything wrong but just bringing this fact to light.

 

[OccupantRJ]

The pieces to seal the metal sheets to a surface are called closures. Both inside and outside are made, depending on sheet profiles.

 

[yaidunno]

Great info guys, much appreciated.
yaidunno-thanks for the pics and info, your shop ceiling is looking real nice! What do you plan to do at the wall and ceiling intersection? ive seen some just running the tin together and covering with a wood trim. Or like bullnerd suggested with j channel at the ceiling edge which the tin on the wall can slide into?
Any thoughts?

Hey Ford33 thanks for commenting too, as for the walls and noise I hope after adding some shelves and other things to the walls it will help some??

Its a bit hard to see, but there is J-trim going around the perimeter of the ceiling. I will be butting the Smartside up to the bottom of the J-Trim.

 

[coldh2o]

Just my $.02 as it relates to installing these panels in the absence of drywall. Drywall does perform as an air barrier and using the panel in its absence will eliminate the air barrier from the building envelope. Issues could range from a lack of thermal efficiency to condensation / mold issues.

I'm sure 50 people will chime in and say they have never had an issue. Their are allot of variables to consider. Not saying anyone is doing anything wrong but just bringing this fact to light.

Drywall is not an air barrier unless installed using the Airtight Drywall Approach - caulked seams, all penetrations sealed, etc. A slow and expensive process, and the long term effectiveness is open to some debate. 6mil poly will serve the same function (with the same attention to sealing details) and is a lot cheaper.

That being said, there's no question there should be some type of air barrier behind the panel (in my cold climate). Unless, since it is impermeable, you sealed all the joints and penetrations in the panel. But that seams like a lot of work.

 

[jbolg]

More great advise and info thanks guys.
Today I'll get into closures and j channel.

For the 6mil poly what is the preferred tape to seal the joints? And if using a staple gun to put it up do I need go be concerned with taping over the Staples too or just the seams/joints?

Nice garage pics tonkajoe I really like the wood and tin mix you have going!

And @xtremek thanks for the kind words

 

[xtremek]

I put up 5 mil plastic on the ceiling of my barn. When you go to do that, cut 1" squares out of cardboard (used cereal boxes, etc.) and staple through that first. I've got a leaking roof (first on next years to do list) and the plastic held many gallons of water. If you're not going to put faced insulation up, probably would.

 

[jbolg]

I put up 5 mil plastic on the ceiling of my barn. When you go to do that, cut 1" squares out of cardboard (used cereal boxes, etc.) and staple through that first. I've got a leaking roof (first on next years to do list) and the plastic held many gallons of water. If you're not going to put faced insulation up, probably would.

Great idea thanks for that tip. Makes sense
And yes I do plan to use faced insulation.
Does it matter what tape I use for the seams?

 

[xtremek]

Since I put up faced insulation, I thought the facing worked as a vapor barrier, so I didn't tape my plastic seams. FWIW