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Anyone restore a Craftsman 6x48 belt sander yet?

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Shiftless

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Mar 9, 2014
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East Bay SFO
Thanks. Yeah I posted a wanted ad on there. Here is the donor King sealey logo I finally have a use for. The motor I want to use is 3450 rpm so that's too fast. Maybe I'll look for DC motor.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445378241.995108.jpg

Bagged:
If that is an otherwise good motor, couldn't you change the pulleys to achieve the desired RPM?
 
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nine4gmc

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It's easier to make a 1725rpm faster with pulleys than it is to make a 3450 slower with pulleys I believe.


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bagged89s10

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Bagged:

If that is an otherwise good motor, couldn't you change the pulleys to achieve the desired RPM?


I think I would need a larger pulley on the sander to slow it down enough, which there isn't room for with the disc sander. I'll just use the motor it came with and rewire it and clean it up. It ran quiet and smooth.
 

Outlawmws

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The Badlands
Nice finds guys! I'd Love to find one of these in decent condition!

On the replacement of the "tires" - on a band saw I've simply contact cemented a strip of rubber onto the wheel. However, those run much slower and the Dia of the wheel is much larger... less likely to have issues peeling the "tire" off. (Minelasted for 20+ years, and was still working fine when I sold the saw...)

For a roller like these I think the bicycle inner tub is a good idea, however, see if you can find what they used to call "thorn proof" tubes, as those are thicker. Use a large Diameter tube (not the 20" ones) so as to reduce the curvature.

If a Bike tube isn't a decent option, you might do the rubber strip, and wind it on slightly diagonal (overlapping the edge of the roller) and trim to width when done. this would I think give the least likelihood of stripping the rubber off at speed.

Motors: If you want variable speed, a tread mill motor could be easily adapted to one of these, however I would set up the pulley sizes so it's not likely to "over rev" the sander rollers/belts at speed. These things can go 4-6K RPM's full tilt...
 

Bigbandguy

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North Carolina
Another possibility on the tires would be to contact a printer in the area and find out where rebuild printing rollers are obtained. These shops take the core from a printing press roller and add a compound that is very similar to rubber for the surface of the roller.. they have to be a true diameter and consistent surface for printing use. I would be very surprised if one of those outfits couldn't resurface a tire for the sander. Just a thought... and I guess the real hurdle would be to get them to do it cheaply. If it doesn't require a lot of setup you might make a deal to get them done.
 

FlyingLow

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Vancouver Island
Hey Nine4gmc can you tell me what the washer stack up looks like on the shaft for the idler roller shaft? Mine came disassembled on that end. I have included a picture of the washers and where they are supposed to go. Seems to be an odd number if they are to be the same on both sides.

Edit : the second picture is of the drive roller but it's very similar.
 

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AdrianBoomer

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FlyingLow,
I have your sander and I completely restored mine fairly recently. I went out to my shop and just had a look. On mine I have 2 fiber washers on the pulley side and one fiber washer on the other side of my Idler roller. Hope this helps. I know for a fact I don't have any metal washers on mine.
 

FlyingLow

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Awesome thanks for getting back to me.

FlyingLow,
I have your sander and I completely restored mine fairly recently. I went out to my shop and just had a look. On mine I have 2 fiber washers on the pulley side and one fiber washer on the other side of my Idler roller. Hope this helps. I know for a fact I don't have any metal washers on mine.
 

bagged89s10

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Mar 13, 2005
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I just picked up another sander with the table that I need. The seller told me this one is slow to get up to speed and then bogs down when you try to sand on it.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1449074081.640007.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1449074094.827421.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1449074105.816359.jpg
 

Squashfest81

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Might as well post my 113.
I picked it up for nothing as the upper roller had cracked where the left side bearing mounts. The rollers are discontinued so my father milled the hole deeper to seat the bearing in fresh material. It had worked for years, but its starting to get play again. Anyone have a good upper roller?
 
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nine4gmc

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Great shape Bagged!!

Squash, is it just tge roller or the part that holds the roller?


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Squashfest81

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Nine, just the roller. It's a cast crapmetal kind of piece, finned to a solid center that has recessed holes for the bearings to seat in. It just isn't up to the task. Especially with one of the bearings closer to center.
Got one?
 

philofab

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Jul 12, 2015
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Mohave Valley, AZ
My rollers didn't have any tires... didn't even know it needed them.

About 15 years ago the bearings failed on the upper roller and took out the shaft, had to make some new parts on the lathe.
 

bagged89s10

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Great shape Bagged!!

Squash, is it just tge roller or the part that holds the roller?


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Thanks. The motor needs work so I'll install one of my other motors to this one. What rpm motor are these supposed to have?
 
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nine4gmc

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Bagged, I've seen both 1725 and 3450 in separate owners manuals I believe. I want to say I have a 3450 on mine, I'll look later and report back. You can check owwm for the manuals.

Squash, unfortunately I do not have an extra, I was mainly asking in case anyone else may have what you need, I know there are members here with spare parts.


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bagged89s10

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Bagged, I've seen both 1725 and 3450 in separate owners manuals I believe. I want to say I have a 3450 on mine, I'll look later and report back. You can check owwm for the manuals.

Squash, unfortunately I do not have an extra, I was mainly asking in case anyone else may have what you need, I know there are members here with spare parts.


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I just looked at the first one I bought and it is 1725 rpm. The one I just picked up is 3450.
 
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nine4gmc

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Yeah, I can't remember the model numbers of the manuals I saw on owwm but two different manual's models listed two different speed motors.


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bagged89s10

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So I'm going to wire up this 1750rpm 1/3 HP motor to this sander for now. It's from my bandsaw which isn't together right now.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1449195782.459686.jpg
It will fit on the mount and is in good shape other than the dirt.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1449195229.426564.jpg
I just spent a half an hour taking it apart and getting it clean. Hopefully I can get back out to the garage there after my son goes to bed and put it together and test it out.
 

AdrianBoomer

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Novato, California
I just checked mine and the motor on it is a Ward Kraft 1750 1/3HP. It bogs down on me so maybe I too need to move up to a 3450. I have never looked at a manual and I do like this little motor but maybe the faster RPMs will improve performance, No??
 
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nine4gmc

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Faster motor will eat through similar materials faster but still bog down. I really believe these machines need a 1/2hp or more, preferably 3/4 or 1hp especially if you work with hard woods or metals.


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bagged89s10

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Faster motor will eat through similar materials faster but still bog down. I really believe these machines need a 1/2hp or more, preferably 3/4 or 1hp especially if you work with hard woods or metals.


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So I just put this Dunlap motor on my saw to test it and it seems to be good. I like the slower speed. I just need help fixing the motor. Sometimes it Sparks on startup. Doesn't seem safe.
 

Chris Stapley

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Jan 22, 2010
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Campbellford, Ontario
I have a slightly newer version of the same,mine has bare aluminum wheels. Looking at them,why could you not remove the rubber and simply paint them with the rubber handle Plastidip paint that used to be us to coat pliers handles,you know the same stuff the Honda Civic kids are "custom painting" their wheels and their mommies BMW's with?
 

Squashfest81

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My 113, which a fellow member has assisted with a roller, is powered by a 3/4 horse 3450.
 

bagged89s10

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I cleaned the contacts and still get a spark sometimes on startup. But it runs great and is perfect for what I want to do. Cleaned up this vise anvil with no sweat. And the metal dust just falls off.

 

Squashfest81

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Bagged. Can't help with the sparks, but she sounds great and tracks well. Videos are nice touches.
 

bagged89s10

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Bagged. Can't help with the sparks, but she sounds great and tracks well. Videos are nice touches.


Thanks. Funny thing, I looked quickly at my rollers in bad lighting and they didn't seem to have any rubber on then. Just metal.
 

Squashfest81

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Tool_Scrounger came through with a roller for the 113. Here she is after a little parts swap and a wash. Tracks better than ever.

And the older style cams and locks off Scrounger. They really improve the look and function over the bolt head style with stamped wrench.

And the reason she wouldn't track. Look at the inboard, almost centered, placement of the bearings. Mine had failed, but this looks like a weak design. What's the design on the 103 model?
 
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nine4gmc

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Unfortunately the bearings are bronze sleeve bearings pressed in to the side supports. The rollers both attach to the axle with set screws and flats milled on the axle. I just about finished this one, still need to put the bearing covers and plate on the motor, a belt and polish the flash rust off the table.

Does anyone know where the tension handle should be when a belt is on and it is ready for operation? Mine sticks out as shown, it turns farther without a belt on it and the handle tucks behind the platen but with the belt on, I can only get it to close this far.
img_2383.jpg
 

bagged89s10

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Unfortunately the bearings are bronze sleeve bearings pressed in to the side supports. The rollers both attach to the axle with set screws and flats milled on the axle. I just about finished this one, still need to put the bearing covers and plate on the motor, a belt and polish the flash rust off the table.

Does anyone know where the tension handle should be when a belt is on and it is ready for operation? Mine sticks out as shown, it turns farther without a belt on it and the handle tucks behind the platen but with the belt on, I can only get it to close this far.
img_2383.jpg



My handle sticks out like this. Looks just like how yours sits.

b6c8a58819d22921926cec7f86ff3768.jpg
 
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nine4gmc

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Yes, i see the manual shows it in that position as well, thanks!

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nine4gmc

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Rick, these older ones are super easy, with a wire wheel and a few hand tools you could do one fast!

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nine4gmc

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Adrian, I went with spray on Plasti-Dip on both wheels, only used it a few times but it seem to be working so far. I sprayed a light coat, then when it dried i went real heavy with two more coats letting it dry between.

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