shooting4life
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2012
- Messages
- 334
I assumed the HD rep knew what he was doing
This was your mistake bud I am glad everything ended up working out.
Last edited:
I assumed the HD rep knew what he was doing
I am able to almost burry the entire thread into the fitting.
The key question is if it is bottoming out in the fitting, or if it's sealing up as it should.
If it's bottoming out you can usually feel that it threads in easily and then just abruptly stops when it hits the bottom.
If it's working correctly it should gradually get harder and harder to turn.
Sorry for bumping an old thread, but my issue seems to be the opposite. I had HD cut and thread some 1 1/2" oil fill pipe, and I unlike the factory fittings which thread in about 5/8" or so into the fittings, with the HD pipe I am able to almost burry the entire thread into the fitting. I tightened it as much as I could with pipe dope, but...
Should I take it back and have them adjust the machine and redo it? Or do I try it since I have everything setup and see if it leaks and go from there?
I am able to almost burry the entire thread into the fitting.
The key question is if it is bottoming out in the fitting, or if it's sealing up as it should.
If it's bottoming out you can usually feel that it threads in easily and then just abruptly stops when it hits the bottom.
If it's working correctly it should gradually get harder and harder to turn.
It did get gradually more difficult and I don't believe it is bottomed out, it just wasn't what I was used to with all the other pipe I used that I got with the tank. Threaded it by hand a few turns, then cranked it with the wrenches and they are all about 5/8 inside the fittings.
I also noticed that the HD pipe is looser threading, as in if you start it a few threads, you can almost rattle the two pieces together (exaggerated of course). Maybe the taper is too steep hence the looseness at first, then the near bottoming out at the end?![]()
British standard pipe threads are the same pitch as US NPT. But there is no taper on the threads. They usea a sealant. It works for them.
Nick
You've got a $7.00/hr guy threading pipe on a poorly setup and improperly maintained threading machine. What could possibly go wrong?
Particularly since they're getting less than the legal minimum wage it must be some shady under-the-table employment scam...
I know this is an old thread, and even older quoted post, but wanted to comment that it is not correct. The pitch is not the same between NPT and BSPT.
Edited for accuracy. Since I've made more than that since I was 15 and I've never employed anybody with a skillset that could only command that much, I didn't know what the going rate was...
Tommy
^ ^ ^ What about USEFUL information . .. like hiding places for Penny items ??![]()
Here is how you check for proper thread make up. IE are the threads deep enough. By had with nothing on the threads no tape or dope. Thread the fitting into the pipe by had as far as you can, mainly snug no need to really wrench on it. Now removing the fitting and count how many rotations you get. Looking for 2.75-3.5 is ideal. I am for 3. If you get more threads are to deep. Need new prices cut. Less the threads can get recut a bit deeper. This is how I've done thousands of feet of threaded pipe. And the way we are taught as apprentices since they seem to be stuck on the threader the most on big jobs.
One the benefits of small pipe like 1/2 is you can get them tight. Don't be scared.
I guess this is why I'm running copper for my airlines, much easier to work with.
Already starting out with wrenches a size, maybe 2 too small. No wonder so many joints leak.
