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Home Depot cut & threaded iron pipe, but thread does not have taper

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06GMC5.3L

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Sorry for bumping an old thread, but my issue seems to be the opposite. I had HD cut and thread some 1 1/2" oil fill pipe, and I unlike the factory fittings which thread in about 5/8" or so into the fittings, with the HD pipe I am able to almost burry the entire thread into the fitting. I tightened it as much as I could with pipe dope, but...

Should I take it back and have them adjust the machine and redo it? Or do I try it since I have everything setup and see if it leaks and go from there?
 

sublimate

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I am able to almost burry the entire thread into the fitting.

The key question is if it is bottoming out in the fitting, or if it's sealing up as it should.
If it's bottoming out you can usually feel that it threads in easily and then just abruptly stops when it hits the bottom.
If it's working correctly it should gradually get harder and harder to turn.
 

soapii

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Sorry for bumping an old thread, but my issue seems to be the opposite. I had HD cut and thread some 1 1/2" oil fill pipe, and I unlike the factory fittings which thread in about 5/8" or so into the fittings, with the HD pipe I am able to almost burry the entire thread into the fitting. I tightened it as much as I could with pipe dope, but...

Should I take it back and have them adjust the machine and redo it? Or do I try it since I have everything setup and see if it leaks and go from there?

Sounds like HD needs to adjust the keys on their threading machine. Need to move them out a bit.

--Joe
 

Milton Shaw

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The last home depot pipe i bought and cut myself. The cuts and threads I did worked ok. The factory treads all leaked and had to be cut out and retreaded. They were cut too deep. Like several have said, use pipe dope and tighten them up and see if they leak. Most of this pipe is China **** from what I have heard here and elsewhere. Those cut threads do not show taper but if they were cut with conduit dies the fittings would screw on a long way not just a thread and a half. I suspect they were cut wrong with the adjustable threader on the Ridgid machine. Go back and get someone else to recut them and try each thread with a fitting while you are there.
 

06GMC5.3L

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I am able to almost burry the entire thread into the fitting.

The key question is if it is bottoming out in the fitting, or if it's sealing up as it should.
If it's bottoming out you can usually feel that it threads in easily and then just abruptly stops when it hits the bottom.
If it's working correctly it should gradually get harder and harder to turn.

It did get gradually more difficult and I don't believe it is bottomed out, it just wasn't what I was used to with all the other pipe I used that I got with the tank. Threaded it by hand a few turns, then cranked it with the wrenches and they are all about 5/8 inside the fittings.

I also noticed that the HD pipe is looser threading, as in if you start it a few threads, you can almost rattle the two pieces together (exaggerated of course). Maybe the taper is too steep hence the looseness at first, then the near bottoming out at the end? :dunno:
 

LS6 Tommy

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You've got a $7.00/hr guy threading pipe on a poorly setup and improperly maintained threading machine. What could possibly go wrong?

Tommy
 

iceman510

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British standard pipe threads are the same pitch as US NPT. But there is no taper on the threads. They usea a sealant. It works for them.

Nick

I know this is an old thread, and even older quoted post, but wanted to comment that it is not correct. The pitch is not the same between NPT and BSPT.
 

sublimate

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You've got a $7.00/hr guy threading pipe on a poorly setup and improperly maintained threading machine. What could possibly go wrong?

Particularly since they're getting less than the legal minimum wage it must be some shady under-the-table employment scam...
 

LS6 Tommy

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Particularly since they're getting less than the legal minimum wage it must be some shady under-the-table employment scam...

Edited for accuracy. Since I've made more than that since I was 15 and I've never employed anybody with a skillset that could only command that much, I didn't know what the going rate was...:thumbup:

Tommy
 
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rlitman

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I know this is an old thread, and even older quoted post, but wanted to comment that it is not correct. The pitch is not the same between NPT and BSPT.

I looked this up once, and recall that one size in particular had the same pitch (was it 3/8 or 1/2?). The difference was the thread angle and root shape, but I found it was possible to run an NPT tap into a BSP threaded part and get an NPT to work in it.

But yes, they do not all have the same pitch.

As for HD threading, yeah, their pipe and fittings have gone to **** since importing everything from China. I've had black pipe couplers threaded off angle between the two sides, but didn't notice this until I was trying to get things to fit together. That really screwed me once.
 

TX RamRod

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:thumbup:

Edited for accuracy. Since I've made more than that since I was 15 and I've never employed anybody with a skillset that could only command that much, I didn't know what the going rate was...:thumbup:

Tommy

When I worked in the plumbing department at Home Depot I made $9.00/hr, and that was 5 years ago. I enjoyed my time there (for the most part) and took the opportunity to learn a lot about plumbing as well as departments through out the rest of the store. Unfortunately there are a lot of people working in those stores that just don't care about what they do.

It was just a college job for me, but I still use a lot of the knowledge that I gained there. And I can still tell you where nearly anything in that store is, for some reason I can't block that useless information out.
 

TX RamRod

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^ ^ ^ What about USEFUL information . .. like hiding places for Penny items ?? :D

Well after I found them they usually went into a drawer of the ugliest, most outdated vanity I could find (one that no customer would ever desire to look at) until I could get someone come purchase them haha.

As far as where to find them? Just luck of the draw really. The ones I usually found were way back behind something that never moved and hadn't seen the light of day in some time.
 

gmwelder86

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Here is how you check for proper thread make up. IE are the threads deep enough. By had with nothing on the threads no tape or dope. Thread the fitting into the pipe by had as far as you can, mainly snug no need to really wrench on it. Now removing the fitting and count how many rotations you get. Looking for 2.75-3.5 is ideal. I am for 3. If you get more threads are to deep. Need new prices cut. Less the threads can get recut a bit deeper. This is how I've done thousands of feet of threaded pipe. And the way we are taught as apprentices since they seem to be stuck on the threader the most on big jobs.
 
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06GMC5.3L

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Here is how you check for proper thread make up. IE are the threads deep enough. By had with nothing on the threads no tape or dope. Thread the fitting into the pipe by had as far as you can, mainly snug no need to really wrench on it. Now removing the fitting and count how many rotations you get. Looking for 2.75-3.5 is ideal. I am for 3. If you get more threads are to deep. Need new prices cut. Less the threads can get recut a bit deeper. This is how I've done thousands of feet of threaded pipe. And the way we are taught as apprentices since they seem to be stuck on the threader the most on big jobs.


Thanks for the info. In my searching this is what I read as well. I will try for the fun of it tonight with a piece and see what I come up with.


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06GMC5.3L

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Using 18" wrenches and cheater bars if need be.


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06GMC5.3L

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I can do about 7 turns by hand with the stuff they threaded...


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brownbagg

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i dont see what the problem is, taper is just for starting the coupler, just put a pipe wrench on it.
 

rlitman

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Already starting out with wrenches a size, maybe 2 too small. No wonder so many joints leak.

Spot on observation. I've got pipe wrenches up to 24". The 24" makes it so a child could tighten 3/4" pipe, and 1" is easy enough. But by 1 1/4", you'd better have had your wheaties. I couldn't imagine trying to tighten 1 1/2" pipe with an 18" wrench. I struggle with my 24" (though it works well enough if I can find solid things to brace and lever against).

My 18" wrench gets used on 1/2" pipe, or sometimes 3/4" if I'm in a tight space.
 

MacMcMacmac

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Try tightening 4" pipe with a 48" steel pipe wrench. You'll be expanding your vocabulary.

The thread on the HD threaded pie is too short. I wouldn't bother trying to mate two pipes that clearly haven't been fabricated properly. The seal is created by the threads AND the dope/tape.
 

Jess

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I had some pipe threaded at Home Depot, and the guy running the machine was not sure what he was doing and buggered one. As it wasn't right, we cut it off and did another ok. A few weeks later, I went back for another piece and the machine was gone, and they disappeared from all the stores anywhere near I can travel to. Probably due to the issues with the machines and not enough employees who had any idea how to safely and properly run them. Now, I use pro plumbing company and they are great to deal with. Their shop guy will do pipe on a phone call and they are ready by the time I drive down there.
 

TractorJeff

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They can run the threader over that, you shouldn't need to replace the pipe. Convincing the Returns desk manager that it is wrong will be next to impossible. IMOOC
12 inch wrench is plenty on 1/2"(sorry Berry), an 18 inch will run up 2" plenty tight enough. I unscrewed thousands of feet of oil field pipe with 24's that were so freaking tight from an 18". I've also seen couplings split from pipe turned in too tight.
 
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06GMC5.3L

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Got oil delivered yesterday and nothing leaked so I am leaving well enough alone and not touching it.


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